Passat (B5) :: 1999 - How To Get Traction Bars Or AWD Swap
Oct 31, 2011
I have a 99 passat 1.8t that is putting 250hp to the ground in a front wheel drive. Naturally I am having major traction issues and was wondering anything about traction bars for this car or about awd swap on one of these and what was involved.
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I was going to add a rear sway bar to make the truck more stable after lifting it but then I thought when I eventually do a cummins swap, with all the torque and the tall block i have in the back ill get a lot of axle wrap so i will need traction bars. So what is the difference between them? will a rear sway bar stop axle wrap as well as body roll? Also will traction bars stop axle wrap and decrease body roll? I just don't want to get a sway bar now and then need traction bars and have to get rid of the sway bar.
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what does the front and rear sway bars do? how about the front lower tie bars? are they worth getting? i saw them on sale and i wasn't sure exactly what they did.
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2004 Car has 106,800 miles and for the last several weeks, when I'm stuck in traffic, like trying to get into the Lincoln or Holland Tunnel, the battery seems to go from 7 blue bars to two pink bars within five to seven minutes. Used to be that it took 3 five-minute bars of traffic, running fully electric at 100 mpg, to then go down to 2 pink, when the ICE would run and charge the battery. Today the battery indicators went down to 2 pink after sitting in traffic with the AC on and stayed there for the remainder of the time we sat in traffic - another 45 minutes or so.
The ICE would run at idle sometimes, but didn't seem to bring the battery back up unless we were really moving. A couple of times I held the brake with my left foot, revved the engine with my right, and that seemed to bring the battery up a couple bars. After we finally got going on the highway, the battery recovered. I got no warning lights, no triangles. But I'm wondering if these are symptoms of the battery failing. Time to get it tested at the dealership?
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Had a Gen 2 years ago, first time with a Gen 3. Specs: 2011 Prius Two, not II, CPO'd with 83k miles. I've been experiencing this phenomenon for the past couple of days. I would park the car with 6 or 7 bars, but after 8-10 hours of parking it would power up with only 2 bars, or it would power up with 4-5 bars and quickly go down to 2 cars before it charges back up to 6-7 bars. I called the dealer and the SA tells me it's normal. I know for a fact my Gen 2 didn't and my TCH didn't. So is this something I should be concerned about or is this normal for the Gen 3?
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I just found an almost new set of base carrier bars for my 2004 Passat Wagon at an estate sale. They were still in the original box, but the mounting instructions were missing.
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Brought my b6 to the shop for engine swap now getting code 1314 and car is still at the shop
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I'm thinking of doing a dash swap on my 99 super duty to the 2008 super duty dash, steering wheel, etc. I know the od in my truck is mechanical and in the new one its electronical is it possible to swap without having to redue the whole electrical system and computer? Is the steering wheel going to line up and the ducting? How should i approach the wiring?
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2002 B5.5 Passat v6
Want to take a 2001 Audi TT Quattro steering wheel... only horn... no switches, and swap it with the passats steering wheel, same setup just a horn on the passat steering wheel.
Is this possible to do safely, and do the harness is the same so i dont plug in new steering wheel and have the car blow all the airbags or throw codes?
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I am a trucker at heart and I like to add running lights to my running board / step bars. As far as installation of the lights, done it several times, no problem there. However in the past, I have just ran a wire back to the trailer plug and used a scotch lock / snap connector to feed the running board lights.
If I do the same on a 2012, will that cause havick with the computer? Most likely I will be running 7 lights, all 3/4" diameter LED style. If this isn't' the best solution, then where to get power for marker lights.
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Recently I started to have my EPC and Traction Control Lights come on once in a while (no CEL). And when that happens, it looks like my Passat is going into limp mode, because it drives, but it hardly has any power.
VagCom confirmed that the problem was coming from Throttle Body (I don't remember the exact code), I replaced the throttle body, did Throttle Body Adaptation, but I still have the same problem.
Here is the most recent VagCom screenshot:
Address 01: Engine Labels: 03H-906-032-BLV.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 03H 906 032 C HW: Hardware No
Component and/or Version: P 3.6-FSI-LEV2 G00 8030
Software Coding: 0000075
Work Shop Code: WSC 00028 028 00001
1 Fault Found:
000290 - Throttle Position Sensor (G69): Signal too Low
[Code] .....
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My ESP light stay off all the time.Traction light is on.
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I'm looking into being able to turn off my traction control off as need be is their a fuse I can pull or a simply diy to turn it off by a switch in the cab...
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I need to troubleshoot a problem with the ABS & Traction control lights on a 2006 Mountaineer Premium with 126,000 miles. During the year that I have owned the vehicle this problem has occurred every time it is driven on a long trip. The previous owner never drove on longer trips so has no experience with this problem.
When you drive the vehicle around town and on shorter trips (less than an hour) there are no indications of problems. The ABS and Traction control lights come on as part of the start-up check cycle and go off. The ABS and Traction control work in low traction conditions and the lights function correctly when either one is activated.
The unusual behavior occurs on trips longer than an hour. Typically after about 1 1/2 hours at highway speed both the ABS and Traction control lights come on as well as the Wrench symbol in the message panel. It you hit "Reset" the Wrench symbol goes away but the ABS and Traction control lights stay on. The brakes work normally. I do not know if the ABS and Traction Control will work. I have never been in a low traction condition when the lights are on.
Both lights stay on until you stop the vehicle and turn off the ignition. When you restart the vehicle the ABS light is on but not the Traction Control light. When you start to drive the vehicle the ABS light goes out immediately.
After about 1/2 hour of driving both lights come on and the Wrench symbol displays in the message panel. Whenever you stop the vehicle and restart during the trip the cycle repeats. The day after you finish the long trip everything is normal for driving around town and on short trips.
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I have just purchased a 2013 Passat, SEL Premium. In my GTI, I could disable traction control with the "ESR off" button. I do not see anything like that on the display. Is this a menu function somewhere? While I do not need it all the time, when we do get deep snow, the traction control needs to be disabled.
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The traction light (06 passat) stay on all the time. I just noticed that the park brake motors on the rear wheels are missing. Is it the reason why the traction light stay on?
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ok.. I have an 05 1.8t. I just got a Forge Diverter Valve to replace the stock one. Changing out the Valve was pretty easy however after i was all done I started the car up and my Traction Control is not working. I just got the car from a VW Dealership, its not dogged out or anything. Could I have unhooked or moved something without knowing it? or is it just a coincidence that this popped up at the same time?
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I cant find any info on this for the B6..
Is it just a standard LSD?
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My friends has an 06 3.6 motion sedan and has a problem. His car went into limp mode with the ECM and traction control light as well as CEL. we took it to the local dealer (45 min away) they scanned it and said that the throttle pedal was the only code that wouldn't clear. He ordered a new pedal from ECS and installed it today. The cars still in limp mode we read about a potential throttle body adjustment procedure (not too sure of the validity) any how followed it open hood open door ignition in the "on" position for a few minutes. After that when he started it every warning light came on. Is there a step in pedal replacement we re missing? On a side note the connector on the pedal end was fairly damaged not sure what from maybe the po had a botched replacement attempt? Not too sure what to try next.
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I read up in an article I searched that removing the ABS fuse disables the traction, ESC, ABS, all that stuff. Is there a way that I can disengage my traction control and ESC without taking a fuse out if that is even possible?
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Can I take the tranny out of a v10 and put it in my 7.3L Powerstroke?
Both are 1999 f250's.
From what I've read they should both be 4r100's.
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