I have a '99 Passat and this doesnt happen all the time, but - when I'm idle or accelerating after stopping at a stop sign/light, the car has a bad hesitation and it jumps, then finally goes with no problem. Sometimes it feels as if the car is going to stall out.
View 5 RepliesMy 2004 Dodge Dakota V6 4X4 hesitates/jumps/lags (don't know what to call it, but it feels like something momentarily holds back the truck from behind) when I am starting up a hill. I start to loose speed/RPMs and give it a little gas, the RPMs don't change, then it happens. As soon as the transmission does down shift though, and the RPMs go up, it stops. This issue happens the most between about 40 to 50 mph and 1000 and 2000 RPMs. If I turn overdrive off then this problem does not occur even when the RPMs dip down below 2000, which in all fairness is not often. The truck has appx. 128,000 miles on it. What this could be?
View 9 RepliesI have a 2001 f350 4x4 edge programmer 330k miles. I bought it not running right and thought it would be a easy fix. I'm fairly knowledgeable with the 7.3. Original symptoms where it would run for 5-10 minutes lose power and quit. No restart until it sat for a few hours. P1211 was code, so I figure it's a high pressure oil problem. The truck has a new icp, Ipr, fuel pump, a receipt from dealer where they replaced 1 injectors o ring. I figure the o rings where bad. I replaced all of them.
1 injector was pretty bad the o ring was kinda tore up and disfigured, and 1 had new o rings. Why they would just replace 1 I'll never know. Well the problem still exists, it starts fine sounds good. It will idle 20-30 minutes then get sluggish if I give it any fuel. It's a lot better than before I can floor it and it will rev up and after a few revs it gets better again. If I unplug the icp the idle will go up and down and almost die. Trying to start warm it will just barely run at 4-500 rpm then quit unless I can get it to rev. Once it revs up it seems ok. Does that sound like a hpop problem or am I even on. The right path?
Within the past few days my towncar has developed a rough idle. When I'm stopped at a light or stop sign it jumps and just plain idles rough. This also happens when I change speeds after either accelerate or decelerate. I travel an average of 80 miles a day total to and from work and my car has about 140,000 miles on it.
View 13 RepliesI bought an 04 f150 super crew cab with the 5.4L triton in it 3 years ago with 50k on it from my great uncle who was the original owner. It's had a tick to it since he had it but the dealership told him they couldn't find anything wrong with it and to get use to the noise. It's ran pretty good up until last couple months where it's been running really rough and not doing the best. It's still hasn't been all the time but more intermittent and comes and goes, but when it's running bad the rpm drops down to about 200 and my motor sounds blown.
When that's happening I could put in neutral and rev it up and it would go back to normal for a bit, but now it's all the time and stalls out even at 70 on the hwy. The codes it throws are, p1000- monitor checks not complete-more driving required, p0345- camshaft pos sens circ error(bank 2), p0022- A camshaft pos timing-over retarded bank 2. Things I have tried-changed all 8 plugs, added K&N air intake, replaced both cam sensors, replaced fuel pump driver module (due to corrosion). Tonight I'm going to clean the throttle body, mas air flow sensor, change fuel filter.
Last night I was driving home... Cruise was set at 75mph. I noticed the RPMs jumping up and down slightly. I get paranoid. Anyways, its not that noticeable, but i posted a video... it seems to jump about 50-100 rpms each time.
Does rpms jump like that when set on cruise control? Ive never noticed it in any other car, and I am still getting used to this one so I want to make sure.
Have a system lean code popping up. long term fuel trim at idle is 14. No misfire counts. adjusted fuel trim from full rich to lean still no misfire counts. When on test drive and found after accelerating on the freeway soon as i take my foot off the gas pedal long term fuel trim jumps to 29 and multiple cylinder misfires start to occur. I take car off freeway and at stop light can feel misfire and fuel trim still at 29. coast it into the shop and at idle LTFT down to 10-14. Sprayed brake clean all over intake manifold but wasn't able to register any change in fuel trim. Fuel pressure is within spec. Cleaned MAF and Replaced with known good. LTFT still high
View 2 RepliesI have a 2012 Passat SE (5cyl) automatic with 25k miles on it. I have noticed that when i put my car into gear (reverse or drive) that my car jumps with a little burst of speed (while I am easing off the brake), I don't have the slightest clue of what it could be, or if that's normal or not as i purchased the car less than 3 weeks ago.
View 3 RepliesI am having a problem with my car today. When I started it today while going home from work I noticed that it's idling a bit rough. Then i noticed that the pressure is going under -0.8 bar. Golf 4 1.8t boost going under 20 hg at idle. While driving it is normal but when i slow down it hesitates like it's gonna turn off and the pressure goes less than -1 bar .. What the problem may be ?
View 4 RepliesHave a 95 Mazda Millenia - ran ok till plugs, cap & rotor changed - now it will barely idle & hesitates, coughs & spits until you get it up to 3K rpm - there and above it's smooth - below 3K it loads up & blows out black smoke (rich). What's wrong ?
View 1 RepliesMine is toyota corolla - 2001 VE model. It has 116K miles in it.
It hesitates nowadays to pickup after a long idle time, say in morning when i start to work or when i leave from work to home(idle time of 8 to 10 hrs). I noticed this problem only during very high temp, say atleast 80F.
Hesitation will be there for 4 or 5 secs and will not move even if i give full acceleration, but after that it moves normally.
Car has automatic transmission and i only see this i put it to Drive(D or D2) and not when i do reverse.
I have a 2004 f350 6.0 it has 73000 miles on it. I've had the truck for about a month and its developed a slight stumble, hesitation. It does it during idle and acceleration, if I give it more throttle it smooths out. The cel is not on and there are no stored codes.It did this a few days after i bought it,i noticed the map sensor was broke in half so i replaced that and it smoothed out.But it came back. Exhaust is clean no white or black smoke at all.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2006 F-250 4x4 with no cat, and no egr but the valve is still connected. It has about 146,000 miles. Just recently when warm, it has a slight miss every once and a while when stopped and in gear. Just a slight drop in RPM then recovery. Its mainly used on the highway and 99% of the time I set the cruise and its smooth as silk. Every once and a while I feel it stumble once or twice, recover and it is fine for the next 80 miles with no issue. It started as once every few trips but now It seems to be happening at least once every other. I use Motorcraft filters (maybe 6K on the fuel filters) and rotella oil. My scangaugeII shows no codes and no Injector pressure issue (1200-1400 at 75 mph depending on grade) and the FICM voltage stays between 48.5v and 49.0V. What should I check?
View 2 RepliesThe 2.8 V6 car sometimes hesitates when trying to accelerate. It even has what feel like 'misses' at idle. No codes except catalytic convertor below efficency bank 2. I suspect it could be a bad o2. I looked at vag com, 311-2 and found...
Group 32, Sen1 bank 1 oxygen sensor adpt.@idle 0.0%
Sen1 bank 1 oxygen sensor adpt.@par 0.8%
Sen1 bank 2 oxygen sensor adpt.@idle 0.8%
Sen1 bank 2 oxygen sensor adpt.@par 0.8%
Group 42 bank 2 50Kohm 0.10Kohm inner rest. Sensor 2
Group 41 bank 1 60Kohm 0.50Kohm inner rest. Sensor 2
What measuring blocks should I be looking at? Weird that the car is 'bogging' or 'hesitating' without a misfire being reported.
I am yet another sufferer of the 40mph vibration syndrome I commonly read about on this site. I have had my 2006 f350 club cab sd to the dealership about 7 times for this, and now am being told it is a normal characteristic of this truck. They have replaced wheels, tires, vibration machine analyzed, put on a vibration damper, etc., but nothing fixes the problem. It has done it since the day I drove it home.
How many of you out there are upset about their super duty that jumps up and down at certain speeds? Lately, my dealership has had my truck more than me. From the amount of posts I see about this problem, I am certainly not alone. Ford is now trying to brush me under the carpet, yet I have a truck with a built in gyrator that is totally unacceptable. The truck now has about 20,000 miles of bouncy misery on it, and it isn't getting better.
I just got my 2003 passat 1.8T 5 speed. i noticed that every time i come up to 1500 to 3000 rmp in 3rd gear the clutch or what ever that is hesitates to spin. I am wondering what could it be? and the other day when i was driving in the freeway i noticed that when ever i get to 78-80mph i feel or the car starts to vibrate. does my car needs alignment?
View 1 RepliesFor the last 2 months I have been having an issue with my 2007 Passat when speeding up BUT only up hills. I have brought it to the dealer over a month ago when it was really bad on highways and it barely speed up to 60mph. So I went and got new 4 brand new tires with an alignment. Problem was still there but def. improved the, I guess I really needed new tires! But the hesitation still there, so I went again to VW and they didn't get no error or fail messages when they test drove it.
But I knew my car did not sound like that 3 months ago. So I brought it again and went with them for a test drive and the mechanic felt the hick up speeding up at 60-70 mph as well, you could even see it on the speedometer that it set back for a sec. when accelerating at 60mph but after 70 and 80mph it is riding smooth. VW mechanic only saw a high air intake when it happens and believed it was the engine speed sensor that was failing.
Yesterday I went to the VW dealer for the 5th time and they have it again all day, test drive it and now they say yes it is still doing it. Diag. laptop still shows no signs or fails. BTW, I don't have any start misfires like usually carbon build up cars get!! I did my research online but I see no other Passat's doing that kind of thing. I just don't want to continue driving it and one day my engine just cuts off...The car is balanced and just got aligned, and my steering wheel is not shaking while it happens either. I feel a little hick up from the floor/gas pedal.
2001 F250 SD, V10, Auto, 155K miles
While driving home from work I noticed the needle jump from around 55 to 70 on the display, then settle back in at 55 ish. First I just caught it out of the corner of my eye, but watched more closely, and it did it again as I drove. The tow/haul override button on the shifter was blinking also, (as if it was "Mad" about something)..
Then I noticed that the jump of the Speedometer needle was linked to when I changed from High to Low on the headlights, and vise-versaI was NOT in cruise mode The voltmeter did not EVER waver. (I thought that the increased current might be causing a temporary problem of sorts). Where to start looking?
I have a 2005 F-350 Lariat, FX4, CrewCab, with an 8ft Bed if any of that matters. Currently sitting at 191,000 miles and 4,500 Engine Hours I just started running into some issues that I cannot figure out. To start with here is a list of all the mods and prior maintenance that I've done to my truck over that last 6+ years that I've owned it.
I purchased the truck in 2010 and had no issues whatsoever for the first 3 years.....then it all started. While pulling a camper home from vacation "still bone stock" the truck overheated and by the time I realized it it was to late. I ended up blowing a head gasket cracking a head and blowing a hole in my coolant reservoir from the heat & compression of the engine in the coolant system. So to the shop it went.
All of this was done at the same time at just under 4,000 engine hours:
1) Both heads were sent out to be pressure tested "which is where the crack was found", so 1 replacement head and the other trued up and tested by the machine shop
2) All 8 injectors replaced with Airtex/Wells New/Reman
3) ARP Head Studs
4) BPD EGR Cooler
5) New Stock Coolant Reservoir
6) New Stock Oil Cooler
7) Motorcraft Coolant & Oil/Oil Filter Change
8) New Serpentine Belt
After getting the truck back I installed some upgrades that I had wanted but didn't want to do until I had head studs. 4" Turbo back Diamond Eye Performance exhaust, Bully Dog GT Tuner with an EGT Pyro, coolant changed to Caterpillar ELC, Sinister Diesel coolant filtration system, new Optima batteries "I hated them",
Forward a year with no problems I had a crank but no start. I ended up having a bad IPR. A buddy rebuilt the turbo since I had it out and it was leaking. He apparently did something wrong because it took its own life sometime after. So a brand new stock Garrett Turbo with a Wicked Wheel 2 & I changed the IPR "don't remember the brand." Also replaced the factory paper air filter with a cleanable one from AFE that fits in the factory cold air intake.
Little more time and I started to have some overheating issues again, luckily the Bully Dog was monitoring and I had alerts set up so I caught it way before it caused any serious damage. Turned out the fan clutch wasn't working. So I replaced the Water Pump with one from dieselsite.com that has a steel impeller, also replaced the computer controlled fan clutch with a 7.3L mechanical fan clutch and an adapter from BPD.
After that the batteries I hated were replaced. I installed Oddssey Extreme 950CCA ones, a new 185A alternator from FICMRepair.com as well as the complete battery wiring interconnect kit. Did the blue spring upgrade. Replaced my FICM with the BPD 6 phase at 54V setting. Also I changed my starter to an 6.4L Ultima one from O'Reily Auto to bring me up from that slow crank of the 6.0L at about 150RPM to the 225RPM of the 6.4L.
So now on to the current issue. This has happened in the last month and may be related to the issue. I had some small coolant leaks and wanted them fixed. Pressure tested the system & found the radiator and timing cover gasket leaking. I installed a new stock radiator and lower radiator hose. Had the shop do the gasket and a serpentine belt due to cleaners being all over it. During replacement of the timing cover gasket my mechanic found that the LPOP gears had some damage as if something had be in there at one time. Not sever damage just minor. LPOP replaced with brand new one from Ford.
After I got the truck back it was fine for 2 weeks, no leaks or any problems whatsoever. Then I noticed a hesitation as I was leaving work at idle. You could see the RPM's moving up and down by about 50 as it sat there at idle. It got really bad and eventually stalled on me. It fired right back up and ran fine after. I was thinking water in the fuel or just maybe old fuel because it was kinda old and I was at 1/4 of a tank. I went and filled up and it ran great all the way home. Day or so later same thing. At idle you can see the RPM fluctuating and while driving it feels like it has no power at times then it goes away and runs fine. So I changed both fuel filter with Motorcraft ones and put in a new oil filter. It is the Wix brand but I've be running it for years with no issues, one was also in it way before this issues started. The oil has about 2,000 miles on it currently. I verified fuel pressure at idle to be at 70PSI. I tried unplugging the ICP at idle with no change in the hesitation. So I plugged in my SG2 and started to see if I could see anything out of the ordinary.
OAT - 60 Degrees F
KOEO Engine Cold - FMP - 54.5V, ICV - 0.25V, ICP - 0, IPR - 14.9
KOER Engine Warm - FMP - 54.5V, ICV - 0.82V, ICP - 576, IPR - 23.5
Cruise at 40MPH - FMP - 54.5V, ICV - 1.14V, ICP - 965, IPR - 32.9
Cruise at 50MPH - FMP - 54.5V, ICV - 1.42V, ICP - 1,190, IPR - 38.0
Cruise at 60MPH - FMP - 54.5V, ICV - 1.27V, ICP - 1,143, IPR - 37.2
While driving this issue comes and goes very randomly. The only parameter I notice changing alot is the IPR. It jumps around a lot and sometimes it will go to 85. I know that this isn't a good thing so I am going to change the IPR later today or tomorrow. I already had a brand new Motorcraft one to put in, plus at the very least I want to look at the screen. I had read somewhere that there could be air in the oil system and that if you run at a high RPM it can remove this air. I never seen any bubbles or anything on the dipstick. My brother ran the truck for me at 3,000RPM for 5 minutes. No hesitation during the test but he didn't have the SG2 plugged in so I don't know the parameters during the test. I thought that it worked but then it came back after a few miles of driving. The above parameters are from this mornings drive home from work.
Tires have less than 10,000 miles on them, and air pressure is within 2 lbs left to right side.
New calipers.
New soft lines.
New hard lines.
New pads.
New rotors.
New ball joints.
New tie rod ends and center link.
New front axle universals.
Brake fluid and all other parts are less than 6 months old. I can let go of the wheel and the truck tracks straight, 10mph to 100 mph. Whether I am going 10 mph, or 100 mph, when i first step on the brakes the truck jumps right. Needless to say, the faster i am going, the worse it jumps.
After first brake application, truck tracks straight. Let go of the wheel and it tracks straight from 100mph to a dead stop with brakes applied after the initial jump. Whether I am hard on the brakes or gentle, it does not pull at all. Only on the initial step on the brakes.I am at a loss as to what the heck is wrong with it.
The tach in my 01 F250 PSD has become intermittent. It works properly some of the time, not at all some of the time, and jumps up and down some of the time.
Does it get it's signal from the CPS? It has a blue CPS that's about a year old and the truck runs fine?