I have a 1999 passat gls 1.8t with an intermittent ABS light code 1203. i cant find a description for it anywhere. Many passats are infamous for abs modules going bad but this is an intermittent problem that the code is not always set so I am trying to pin point it down.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2000 F350 7.3 4x4. It began giving intermittent tow/haul flashing light, when going up or down hill but would clear and drive next time truck was cycled off/on. No ABS lights and code reader generated P0720 for the output speed sensor, now I can get it to generate just driving slowly fwd and rev a few times. All of this has been in the last few days.
Truck will stall if I take it up a slight incline with the fault. I replaced the sensor on the top front of the 4r100 transmission and also replaced the sensor on the rear differential after giving up on looking for an output sensor on the transmission. I know the 2WD transmissions have an output sensor but is there one on the 4WD version? I have read several past threads discussing the P0720. I am hoping to confirm what sensor I need to be looking at and where it is located in this application.
I have a 1998 1.8T Passat, Manual, with a P0422 DTC which always comes back after resetting. I don't have a Ross Tech since I own an older Mac. I have also sensed a more than usual odor from the exhaust and I have had a very noticeable loss in power at times.
The mechanic took a look at it and said that the cat was rattling and possibly partially plugging the exhaust system. He has ordered a new one for me - it will be here in couple of days. About 15 mins after I drove away from the shop (check engine light still on), I was accelerating away from the light and I felt a gentle jerk in the car and the power and acceleration and power that we all love in the 1.8T came totally back. It feels like a new car again. You really don't realize what you had missing until it comes back.
Does this make sense? Is this consistent with a the "plugging/unplugging" of an exhaust system by a bad cat? I just want to make sure the mechanic is doing the right thing.
I've gotten the P0442 "small leak - intermittent" code and "service now" warnings on my 2007 2.0T Passat. I have also occasionally gotten the "check gas cap" warning and icon on the dash, but it always goes away quickly. The car runs fine. The VCDS scan shows as follows:
Address 01: Engine Labels: 06F-907-115-AXX.lbl
Part No SW: 3C0 907 115 S HW: 8P0 907 115 B
Component: 2.0l R4/4V TFSI 0020
Revision: --H14--- Serial number: VWZCZ000000000
Coding: 0404010A19070160
Shop #: WSC 24125 444 85663
VCID: 3041CBF8A31AF19890B
1 Fault Found:
001090 - EVAP Emission Control Sys
P0442 - 001 - Small Leak - Intermittent
[Code] ....
If I clear this code, it comes back within a day or two of driving, but not immediately. I have already replaced the gas cap and N80 valve. The other component I'm aware of possibly failing is the check valve. It's just downstream of the N80 valve, circled in red here:.
I put a vacuum on this part, and it had a very slow leak, losing about 3psi (starting from 20psi) every minute. That seems too small a leak for this to be a problem? Is this thing supposed to be absolutely air tight? Since this part is more expensive ($80) and bit more hassle to replace than the N80 valve, I'd like to know more about this before I just blindly replace it.
If this check valve isn't the problem, then what to check? Although the car runs fine, I need an inspection and would prefer to not have to clear the codes and hope for the best just before taking it in.
I recently purchased a 1999 vw passat gls 1.8t. Initially the guy I bought it off of told me that when he was rebuilding the turbo he stripped the main shaft bolt, so it needed a new turbo. So I bought a k-04 off of ebay and installed it. The battery was dead so I replaced the battery as well. When I first tried to start the car it would start for a second kind of chugging and then die. I went to my local auto parts store and rented a scan tool and it gave me 2 codes. The first code was P1545 and the other was P1818. As far as how many miles the engine has on it I don't know for sure as the engine has been replaced and apparently no one knows how many miles it actually has.
View 2 Replies2.slow bev engine / 2004 golf gl / 105k miles
The car sat in a garage for 9 days. It had no problems before. Now I have a p0441 code that comes back after being cleared, and an intermittent gas cap light. Is there a typical problem that causes this?
I have a 2006 Sonata with an intermittent check engine light. The light will be on for a few days then goes out for a day or two. This pattern has been going on for about 3 months now. A scan tool was used and showed the code P0011. I know this code has to do with the camshaft timing. My question is should the light be going out on its own if there was a problem with the camshaft timing? Does the engine correct itself and then experience the problem again. Is it normal for check engine lights to go on and off with out being manually reset? Could this be a faulty sensor or loose wire causing the light to go on and off? The car has about 75,000 miles, mostly Hwy, and is driven just about everyday.
View 36 RepliesMy 2007 Explorer (XLT, V6 4.0L, 4WD, 175k miles) has been experiencing a check engine light, intermittently, for the past few months. I took it to AutoZone to read the code and they gave me a printout for P0193. For awhile, the light would go off after I filled the tank with gas (usually the next day) and would come again as the level in the tank decreased (typically around 1/4 of a tank). Then about two months ago, the behavior seemed erratic and I could no longer predict when it would appear. During the past couple of weeks I only recall seeing the CEL once (briefly); it's mostly been off. Saturday night I was out driving and it came on again.
About two hours later, my vehicle "conked out" on me. It started hesitating (it's been a very long time since I've run out of gas, but that's what it reminded me of). Fortunately, there was no traffic and I was able to get it off the road but didn't have enough momentum to get it into a defined parking space before it quit. I sat there for awhile pondering my options (not too many since it was the middle of the night and I don't have road service). After about 10 mins or so, I decided to see if I could get it started. It did start and I was able to drive it home (< 10 miles). It's been sitting in the driveway since because I'm afraid of getting stranded if I drive it again. BTW, I was low on gas when it died -- about 50 miles to E (was headed to the gas station when it happened, but took it home instead).
After everything I've read the past few days, I'm expecting that I need to replace at least the fuel filter, the fuel rail pressure sensor and the intake gaskets for the manifold. I am not a mechanic, don't have diagnostic tools, my funds are really limited right now and I'm pretty much on my own to figure this out.
Q1: For those who may have some knowledge about this particular issue, does the intermittent nature of the CEL give any clues to which part(s) might be malfunctioning?
Q2: I found a replacement FRPS made by Bosch on Amazon, significantly cheaper -- is this brand ok or should i stick to Motorcraft?
Q3: Any advice on the manifold gasket replacements (is one brand better than another)?
Q4: Do I really need the special tool to replace the fuel filter?
The questions above are no longer relevant. I'm in the process of "locating" the sensor. I have the air hose and throttle body off. Now I'm looking at the EGR valve. It looks like I will have to disconnect the it from the large pipe beneath it. Will I also need to remove the two smaller bolts that mount it to the manifold cover, or can I remove the cover & valve together? It looks like those little buggers are going to be challenging since they are facing the back of the engine compartment. This is rather slow-going for me, but there's no turning back now.
My 2005 Dodge Dokota 4.7L V8 152,000 miles has an intermittent check engine light (CEL) code P0420 ('catalylst efficiency') that turns itself off.
1) 151,000 CEL on, code P0420, checked, cleared at dealer.
2) 151,948 CEL on, code P0420, checked, cleared at dealer (Cat Conv).
3) 152,200 CEL on, code P0420, checked, cleared at local auto parts store.
4) 152,597 CEL on. No checks.
5) 152,815 CEL turned off on its own
6) 152,849 CEL on. No checks.
7) 153,137 CEL turned off on its own.
Twice in this time CEL has came on soon after a fill up from near empty.
Engine runs fine, 18-19 mpg highway.
Have seen numerous on-line reports of other possible causes:
a) base engine problems (coolant or oil) -- coolant temp sensor
b) Air inleakage -- air systems or manifold
c) Lazy front O2 sensor
d) fuel pumps
e) timing or misfire
f) what else? - (gas cap, other...)
What to check first or categories to eliminate?
Having this issue for a while. Finally have time off work to dig into it some more. 00 ex, v10. Intermittently flashes o/D light and shifts hard. I replaced 2 out of the three speed sensors. One at the output and the other on the axle. Only active code is the p0720 output shaft speed sensor circuit. Last weekend removed and inspected harness, did not electrically measure it tho. My question is: intermittent problem? I drove it today to see if it was still doing it and it drove like a dream! Haven't had the battery disconnected or anything, just sometimes it does it and other times it a smooth ride.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2003 Elantra GLS. I am intermittently Check Engine light and error code is P0113 - Air Intake sensor issue. I can't locate where the sensor is. I don't see any wire coming of the tubing that connects the air filter to the engine.
View 18 RepliesFor the last few months my truck has been throwing an intermittent check engine light due to the same code every time - P0171. The dealer has allegedly checked everything and has given me the "We have done all we can do" speech. Lead tech even suggested that since today's fuels have alcohol in them, that a check engine light would be normal. The truck has been in the shop 3 times with no success or even remote possibility of what the problem could be.
The check engine light has since gone from intermittent to constant and comes back on after 5 drive cycles after clearing with an OBD2 scanner. Also, I'm now getting a P0174 code.
Personally, I think they're trying to blow me off because I'm a few months and about 2k miles away from being out of CPO warranty.
Truck is a 2013 F150 Super crew 2wd 5.0 with about 45k miles.
My 02 f250 w/ 7.3 won't start. Cranks and nothing. No smoke or anything. For the last year It has had a intermittent starting problem, where I would drive it for 15-20 mins. If I shut it off like I would if I was at the fuel pump and then restart it, it wouldn't. I'd have to wait 30 minutes with a hood open and then it may start. Other times I would have to wait hours.
I tried replacing the crank position sensor, the fuel pump and filter.I did all this in the Last 300 mile . There's No change. After a week or two of sitting it won't start. What can I check and what can I try.
To add more info. Since I am not the original owner I pulled the computer that is located behind the ebrake to see if someone else had installed a chip, as I've heard that if that chip goes bad then the truck won't start. I disconnected that battery and pulled it. Negative on any chip. Put it all back together and tried again. No start. I borrowed a code reader tonight and pulled a P1280 code. I'm back to square one.
So, I have have an intermittent flickering of the battery light. The weird part is that it ONLY happens between 80 and 85 mph. Any faster or slower and it doesn't happen. It's not a steady flickering, but a random intermittent flicker. What the issue may be? The car has a new (within 2000 miles) battery and alternator. 1.8t with manual transmission.
View 3 RepliesFor the last couple months I've been messing with a P1118 code. Started a few months ago when I noticed my fuel mileage was down 1-2MPG. Also sometimes a rough seeming idle (hard to tell with the diesel). Then it threw a P1118, so I replaced the temp sensor under the turbo. The code went away for a while then came back, fuel mileage didn't change. So I replaced the temp sensor in the air filter box.
The code went away AND my fuel mileage seems to have come back to normal. Now, code thrown again. Search on P1118 hasn't been super useful. Seems like replacing the sensor under the turbo is the trick. Also seems to come up in combination with a bunch of other codes with battery problems. I suppose it's possible I have some sort of electrical gremlin. It throws the code on startup and stays on until I shut it off. Doesn't come on every time, is off more often than on.
I have a '99 Passat with the 1.8T and auto trans. that does not always crank over, when you go to start it. Most of the time it cranks over and starts just fine, but there are times when you turn the key to the "start" position and nothing happens. Sometimes you have to turn the key back and forth a few times to get it to start and other times just holding the key in the "start" position for a few seconds and it will start.
I've checked the starter and every time that I applied 12 volts to the terminal 50 at the starter, it worked, but if I go back to start it with the key it goes back to random cranking. I removed the ignition switch and bench tested that with an ohmmeter and it works every time. Do I have something going on with the Starter Interlock Relay?
Have an intermittent miss I can feel when driving 2006 F250 5.4 l 4x4 stick; Freeze frame from Cen-Tech 60794 (from Harbor Freight) scanner follows.
DTC CNT 0
DTC FRZF P 0352
FUEL SYS1 OL - FAULT?
FUEL SYS2 --
LOAD PCT 25.9
ELT (DEGREES F) 186
SHRTFT 1 0.0
[Code] ....
I can operate the scanner but what these ranges should be. What might be causing the miss? This scan shows 951 rpm, I was idling along in 1st in traffic, but I have also felt the miss at 75-80 mph (about 2300 rpm) on the Interstate and at other times, with light loads in the 1500- 2000 range in town.
I have a 1999 1.8t 20v sport passat and the heater will sometimes come on while driving along and other times it wont come on at all ?
View 5 RepliesI have a 1999 VW Passat that has a problem with its cruise control that two dealers have not been able to solve. Most of the time I cannot engage the cruise control. Other times it will work properly for 30 minutes. On a rare occasion, it will work properly for several hours. It does not seem to matter what type of road I am driving on. On the rare occasions when it works properly, it does not seem to matter if I stop the care and shut off the engine.
It appears is is there are times when it stops working that stopping the care and shutting off the engine is useful when I begin driving again. However, there is nothing consistent about when it fails, and when it again functions. The dealers have said little more than the cruise control is not working. One dealer installed a new break pedal sensor which did not resolve the problem.
A year ago I replaced radiator, long job in the winter in an unheated garage. After radiator was successfully replaced Air bag warning light started to come on intermittently. More so in cold weather, less so as it warms up. I know you have to be very careful working on air bag system, disconnect the battery and wait 10 minutes. I have heard that this is a known problem on Jeeps, this is a 1999 Grand Cherokee with 150,000 miles. I think ti ha something to do with connector in a dash, what can I do, a car is on its last legs, will not spend money on a dealer to fix, ripped off too often during life of car. I am afraid it will not pass an Ill environmental test (not related to pollution control) I suspect it is setting a trouble code but have not checked as of yet, hasn't warmed up in Illinois yet this year.
View 2 RepliesI looked around for ABS issues but did not find anything to my question .. Mine started last summer running along interstate light just popped one I had just run over some paper and stuff tossed out by a diver food bags and stuff so I figured maybe some trash go into the area under wheel sensor I stopped a bit later for fuel and lite did nit come back on at start up.. Did not come on again for several weeks I scanned the system said faulty sensor circuit .
My son in Law has a mech. at his dealership to look it over he plopped a new sensor in it .. Light came back on again a day or so later I think there is a bad connection at some point .. I took the one at the wheel and the one right at the fender well liner a my scanner said it was right or passenger side front both times I scanned it .
My question is, how many more connections there is its almost impossible for my crippled up to crawl and climb all over and under the thing to clean the connectors and add some dielectric grease. 05 S/D 6.0 turbo....