Passat (B5) :: 1999 - Few Ounces Of Fuel Leak Overnight?
Sep 7, 2011
This is strange but every so often, my 99 V6 Passat decides to piss out a few ounces of fuel overnight while parked in the garage. I usually smell it as soon as I open the garage door and it is always in the same location, just in front of the passenger rear tire. It will smell gassy for a few hours that day and then miraculously clear itself up.
This happens every few months and there doesn't seem to be any pattern to it, ie; just tanked up, low fuel level, hot day/cold day/humidity/car driven hard the night before/driven conservatively. It is a head-scratcher for sure and I don't want the car to suddenly ignite when I am on the highway.
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Just filled the darn thing 2 weeks ago and drove about 10 miles since. Got in this morning and the gauge is down to almost half. I've suspected I was losing gas somewhere but this confirms. Definitely wasn't stolen and the car was definitely not driven. No leaks either.
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My wife's SF with 30K miles has developed a coolant leak after it sits over night. It rest on the concrete behind the oil pan. Its only 4 to 5 drops but any coolant leak is not good. I looked around and it looks like there may be moisture down below where top oil filter is(top back of engine). Crap, I hope its not a HD gasket. Are there any coolant hoses that run on top of the engine behind the oil filter? Hopefully its just a hose. I am going to try and set up an appointment at the dealership for early next week.
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As some may remember, I had a new engine put into my B6 about 2 weeks ago. Everything had been great since, no rattles, squeaks, or check engine lights, until tonight.
About half an hour after I get home from work, my wife heads out to a meeting. She opens the door to the garage and is about knocked over with the smell of fresh gas. NOT GOOD.
I tell her to get in her car and go, I grab the flashlight and pop the hood on the B6. Low and behold, the middle gas line of the 3 lines on the front right of the engine had come completely off! It was leaking gas everywhere and directly on to the alternator. On closer inspection, I notice that the tech. when he put in the new engine, he NEVER PUT THE 3 HOSE CLAMPS ON THE GAS LINES!
They were still on the hoses, just backed off from the ends a couple of inches. Needless to say I fixed the situation, but the Service Manager will be getting a call in the morning. This could have been a very very bad situation. I didn't smell any gas on the way home. I hate to think what could have happened.
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My '99 Passat V6 TDi has just developed a fuel leak somewhere around the tank outlet/inlet. I'm just going away on a trip (in another car) and can't get underneath to have a look-see just yet. Any typical problem in this area?
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The joys of owning a VW never ends...
Fuel line after the fuel filter going to the engine has sprung a leak...
Either way fuel line part number 561-130-307 is leaking wanted to give another heads up to people who are experiencing diesel smell inside the cabin...
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My loaner 2014, 2.5 developed a massive fuel leak when trying to start it yesterday, and it did not start.
I had just done a short 1-mile trip and parked for 2 hrs, came out to start it and it turned over fine with no start, tried it again and smelled raw gas. Thought it flooded so I let it sit for 5 min and tried again, same result. Popped the hood and saw fuel on passenger side frame area and it was dripping a lot when I looked under it.
The car had 5400 miles on it and I had just put 1000 of those on over the week and the car was flawless. Dealer towed it and I am in another loaner while they finish my TDI. I could not see the cause and I wasn't going to trouble shoot as it was a loaner. The 2.5 has been bullet proof overall and this seemed more like a fuel line popped and not an engine issue.
Just wanted to throw an FYI out in case you get a no start and smell gas from an otherwise flawless engine. Nothing dramatic happened in this case as the engine was cold, but if happened while driving it had great potential for fire. Also, would hate to have this happen in my garage in the morning.
If I can get more details from the dealer I will post an update. This would clearly be a recall if they find defective design in failed part. I would not cry wolf on this yet, just a concern...again this car had been on the road for 5 months and 5400 miles.
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I've been suffering for this issue for quite a while. My passat 06 is experience a hard time to start up after sitting over night. The first attempt in the morning is always shaky. Then, it starts up okay during the day. Even like after driving 5 mins and I can restart it without any problem. But it's the first time of the day that troubles me.
And some history, my battery died completely like 2 months ago, and I replaced it with a Duracell. At first, it has no problem start up at all. But there was one day I forgot to turn of the lights and leaved my car over night.
The next morning, I was able to start it but with some difficulty. Since then, I have been experiencing hard times in starting up. Need to point out the issue? I'm really afraid to have a dead battery in a parking lot 1 hour away from my apartment again ..
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Brothers of fte. I reach out. Tonight it appears I had a fuel bomb under the hood.
I've been chasing a fuel leak. Replaced fuel drain orings but one screw seemed to not snug up. Also the plastic was so brittle I couldn't replace the inner oring. Installed new valve worked great. A week later noticed new slow drips. Replaced fuel filter. Again good for two weeks.
Tonight pulled into the driveway hopped out immediately smelled diesel. Steaming from under hood. Popped the hood and everything was wet. Moved her to the street and it clattered like I was running out of fuel. Still half a tank though. Hosed of the drive. Popped hood again fired it up easily. Started fine. No noticeable leak. But everything is wet from fuel. Insulation on hood was saturated. When I open the hood fuel ran out of the insulation into the air intake. Batteries were wet!
Alright what gives? Do I have to be under load to see this leak?
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I noticed a raw fuel smell today while driving. I came right back home & found fuel spread all over the under carriage. I popped the hood & found the fuel bowl and surrounding area wet as well as fuel puddled up in the valley.
Before I tear into things I'd like to get input about common causes. I've read that the separator valve gets it's o-rings eaten up by modern fuel. Could this possibly be it? If so are there special kits that deal with the low sulfur & biodeisel?
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2004.5 F250 SD XLT 4dr 6.0L
CAI, 4" Straight exhaust
EGR Delete, 6.4 Injector pump
Coolant filtration system.
New injectors al around
New ICP, New IPR, New Oil Cooler.
Recently Bulletproofed on ARP head studs, and the stock Head gasket,
New injector harness and FICM from DieselTech Ron
SCT tuner, running innovative diesel tunes. EGT Sensor
37x13.5r18 nitto trail grapplers
Truck started bucking and stalling when warm and over 60mph. No codes.
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I have a 1999 bmw 318se and the battery is going flat overnight and i cant find the problem. I have just fitted a new battery and checked all he lights and functions inside the car and they all seem to be working ok.
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I've had an engine oil leak for some time. Recently I've had to add about a quart a month. I got some fluorescent dye and added it to the engine oil last time I added a quart. Ran the engine for a few weeks. Then cleaned the engine valley with cleaner and hot water.
Tonight I investigated the top of the engine with a black light. To my surprise, the oil leak is coming from the fuel bowl, right around the drain valve. I can clearly see about a drop every 3 seconds of fluorescent yellow liquid falling into the valley below and yellow all around the valve.
I expected a leak from the HPOP not the fuel bowl. Do I have a bigger problem? Is engine oil getting into the fuel? I plan to replace the seals in the fuel bowl, but not until I know whether I have a larger problem to address.
2001 F250 Crewcab, 220,000 miles
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I've thought I smelt diesel fuel on an off for a while, but never found the source.
Tonight, 17 degrees out I have fuel in the valley and it appears as if the back of the drain valve is wet.
A fuel bowl rebuild is on the short list. Is this typical, the cold weather brings the issue to light?
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So i have had a problem with my battery lately and i have done all the steps to try to fix it. First we took out the alternator and battery and had them tested at orielys and the alternator tested positive and the battery tested positive so we had them charge it then put them back in. They told us it is probably a parasitic drain which means something is draining the battery so we detached all my aftermarket stuff like my air compressor train horn and led lights on my grille guard and it ran fine for 2 days without dying. Well this morning i went to start it and it was dead again....
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I'm just a shade tree mechanic try to diagnose a hot crank no start condition on my 2006 F-350 6.0 that I purchased second hand about six months ago. I first took it to a diesel shop to have them fix it and the mechanic told me that the stand pipes and dummy plugs needed changing out but couldn't tell me 100% if that would fix the hot no start problem.. I have been reading a lot about this problem and it seems that the snap to connect fitting on the HPOP is the most common problem on these trucks. It seemed easy enough to do so I went after it only to find it was already replaced with the updated part.
I went ahead and changed it anyway but it obviously didn't work. So today I pressurized the system through the ICP port with my small harbor freight compressor up to 80 psi and forced the IPR valve closed with 12v. I then listened for a leak in the passenger side valve cover with a hose stuck in the oil fill cap, the driver side cover from some drain hole under the air filter housing and in the oil filter housing. I could hear a mild hissing from the driver side and the oil filter housing but it was clearly louder from the oil fill on the passenger side. This leads me to believe I have a top seal leak from one of the injectors on the passenger side, but not 100% sure. Should I be hearing anything at all from the driver side and from the oil filter housing if its a bad seal in the passenger side?
Another problem I just found out I have seems like maybe fuel in the oil. I done a oil change this week after 3500 miles since last change and drained out five gallons of oil!! The oil seemed really thin. My coolant level is still good so the only thing I can think of is fuel dilution. Could this possibly be the same o ring or injector that is causing my hpo leak or something else? Will a bubble or balloon test diagnose this?
I bought a cheap OBD2 reader that works on my Ipad with a app called Dashcommand so I can see what codes were stored. The codes are...
P0401- Exhaust Gas Recirculation A Flow Insufficient Detected (EGR has been deleted)
P0528-Fan Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal
P0670-Glow Plug Control Circuit/Open
P0683-Glow Plug Control Module to PCM Communication Circuit
P2290-Injection Control Pressure Too Low
So far my thoughts are to replace the injector and nipple cup seals to take care of the hpo leak. Once I have the valve cover off, clean the injectors real good and cycle the fuel pump with turning the key on and inspect the injectors for a fuel leak. Is there a better way than this?
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New to me 2003 F250 Super Cab 6.8 V10. Great condition inside and out. 68,000 miles. Began smelling fuel (gas) a few days after driving it 250 miles from purchase location. Traced leak down to the top of the gas tank. Staining was visible around the rear vent. Applied about 5 psi to the tank and sprayed soap around until I saw bubbles coming from a hairline crack at the rear vent connection. Its where the fitting for the hose comes out of the tank.
My first choice would be to hot weld the crack. I'm not very comfortable with the idea of a heat source near a gas tank. I'm not sure, but the heat from the plastic welder might be hot enough to ignite fumes? Second option is to try some industrial 2 part epoxy (PIG) and seal it with that. Is there pressure inside the tank, and if so how much? Can try this fix with epoxy or JB Weld?
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on Friday i was down 2qts of oil so i topped it off and went for a 40-50 mile drive. as i got to my destination, i noticed the pressure going down from 190 to maybe 170? and when i took off from a stop light, i noticed that it just accelerated for awhile like the car was in neutral, then it caught the gears and continued on my way. when i got to the destination, i had some oil leak/tranny leak. not sure yet and also smoking in the engine bay like oil spilled on the exhaust manifold.
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I had just replaced my the fuel pressure regulator in the fuel bowl because it appeared to be leaking from where the FPR is, now with the new FPR , it is no longer leaking from there but now leaking (fast steady leak while running) from the fuel rail outlet fitting... How do you replace these, why all of the sudden it started leaking there ???
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I have a very small fuel leak in my 2001 F-250. I was going to just let it go until I needed to do other work (since I get 20mpg city and 25mpg highway), but I went to a "new" inspection guy, and he flunked me. So now I have to fix it. And for all I know, my mpg and fifteen other things will break when I try to fix this.
Today I spent 4 hours in the heat putting in two new o-rings on the water separator valve. But the truck still leaks fuel. Climbed up on top of motor while it was running and looked, but I don't see where the fuel is leaking out.
Online research suggests to me that the next most-likely culprit is a steel fuel line that wears through from vibration and chafing. Is that correct?
This truck is so eaten up with rust (came from salt belt) that I bought a LOT of fuel line stuff a year or so ago, so that when things started falling apart from rust, I would have the parts on hand.
Now I'm wondering whether I already have the part I'm likely to need.
So far, I have bought:
1. Dorman Fuel Supply and Return Lines
2. Riff Raff Diesel High Pressure Crossover (HPx)
3. Riff Raff Diesel Fuel Rail Crossover (FRx)
So my question is, am I likely to have something to replace the part that commonly leaks on these trucks due to vibration/wear/chafing ... or will I still need to buy another part?
I'm thinking that one of the two lines in item #1 above is the problem child...
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I'm dripping fuel on top of the engine at the fuel filter . Where the line ties into the filter canister, there is a small plate that's attached with small Allen screws its dripping between this plate and the canister .... I assume there is a gasket/oring that is causing it ...... What is the part number or correct description so I can go to ford dealer and get one. It's a 2007 Ford 4x4 6.0 diesel.
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