Passat (B5) :: 1999 - Engine Will Rev Up / Down When Accelerating To 1100 Rpm - Judder And Misfire
Jun 16, 2008
Car :1.8 20v SE 1999 passat adr engine .....
1st prob#: whilst at stand still, in neutral gently accelerating to approx 1100 rpm the engine will rev up/down all on its own, pedal remains steady
2nd prob#: car also has intermittent misfire. I checked the coilpacks using water mist & definite arc/spark
3rd prob#: car has definite judder ,felt through heel/knee kinda bouncing /vibration sensation seems to happen at 35+, light throttle, constant speed, can acc through but thinking all probs related.
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Our 2008 2.0T Variant with 70K miles runs fine, except while running fully warmed up on the highway. Then, at cruising speed, the engine shudders if you try anything more than gentle acceleration. If you push deliberately on the gas at about 1,500 rpm, the engine shudders, fails to accelerate, and the MIL flashes. This has been going on for a few months.
Wifey is about to go on a road trip and, although she's adjusted to this behavior, I don't wanted her stranded somewhere. The engine is throwing code P0301 (got it read at AutoZone), Cylinder 1 Misfire.
I'm wondering why it only misfires under these conditions, and not, say, while accelerating off the line or while idling.
Any tips? I've already put a bottle of Techron through the tank. Car has had all recall/service bulletin work done, which as I remember included a coil pack recall a few years ago.
I wonder if getting the car into the stealership before her trip is a "must." (I don't have my own scanning tool in order to sequentially troubleshoot coil packs. I can at least check plug wiring.
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The check engine light on my 1999 1.8T Passat is on. It started with a little miss right after startup. Then in neutral, after revving the engine to say 1,500 rpm and letting off the gas, it would nearly stall. I plugged in an OBDII analyzer and came up with codes P0102 MAF or VAF circuit low input and P0304, Cylinder #2 misfire. I replaced the spark plugs, as they were old anyway. Still the same symptoms. Then I replaced the mass air flow sensor.
The check engine light still went on after it was cleared, except this time it was P0302, Cylinder #2 misfire, P0102, P1613, Auxiliary inputs aux. outputs control, and P1426 Mfg. Control/auxiliary emission controls. Soon after, the car started running fine on it's own and I again cleared the codes.
Then a day later, the check engine light is on. This time, it is only the P1426 - Manufacturer control auxiliary emission controls. The Bentley manual calls it Tank Vent. Valve Open, which doesn't mean anything to me and the Bentley manual is of no luck. (The error code almost implies that it is the famous loose gas cap, but I have checked that - unless the gasket is bad). FYI: I have 99K miles on the car.
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I have a 99 Volkswagen Passat 1.8 Turbo Automatic AEB engine. I recently did a rebuild on it and ever since I keep getting this code P0301 that says "cylinder 1 misfire". The engine is also running rich and the spark plug in cylinder 1 keeps getting gummed up. I've changed the coil and the spark plugs and the injectors and it works temporarily but then the problem keeps reoccurring.
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2005 3.5L FWD. 5 days ago I left the house, the engine was running smooth at idle but having hiccups when accelerating. Check engine light went on when accelerating but going off at idle. Turned around at the first stop light, parked the car home and pulled code P0302 misfire on #2 . Figured it's most likely the coil, was going to order one next day but to my surprise, no more check engine light next day and engine has been running smooth since then. Probably drove 100 miles since with no issues. I have 6 spark plugs waiting to be replaced but it's too cold to do it right now unless it's an emergency. Car has 105k miles now, spark plugs were changed at 63k. Was this just a fluke and P0302 will probably not come back or should I not risk it and just go ahead and replace the coil? If I end up replacing the coil, should I do one coil or all three?
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My V10 was knocking when accelerating under 2000 rpm; rain and moisture made the problem worse. I discovered that the 2-part wiper cowl under the windshield allowed water to leak into the engine compartment and onto the throttle body, which then dripped onto the left side of the engine. This caused the spark plugs to rust and the 3 back ignition coils (coil on plug) on the driver's side to crack and fail. This caused a horrible misfire/knock that was worst under 2000 rpm especially in high gear and when the environment was wet. I fixed the misfire and cowling leak. Has not returned. I caulked the cowl and changed all my spark plugs and ignition coils.
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I recently bought a 2000 passat 2.8 v6, and ive noticed that there is a dead spot in the rpms. It also will randomly have problems idling at a certain rpm usually will fluctuate between 900 and 1100 and i have to give it gas in order for it to stop. Also when you give it gas and try to hold it at a steady rpm it keeps going up and down and wont stay at one rpm speed. I thought it would either be the tps or idle control valve but cant quite seem to find it. planning on cleaning the TB soon and replacing some hoses to see if it clears it up.
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I've been getting some judder in the ride when my 3.2l V6 petrol engine is under load at low speeds - usually around bends or uphill.
My VW main-dealer diagnosed this as a slight misfire - not enough to bring on the check engine light. They checked the coil packs and the sparks have been replaced - no problems with either.
They then checked the compression on all 6 cylinders - and apparently Cylinder 4 is running at 7.7 BAR and Cylinder 6 is running a 14.3 BAR. Compression 'at new' would be around 13 BAR and anything below 7.5 is considered 'wear'. Pressure on the other Cylinders varies between 11 and 9 - see below:
Cyl 1: 11
Cyl 2: 11.4
Cyl 3: 10.8
Cyl 4: 7.7
Cyl 5: 9.3
Cyl 6: 14.3
I can't see how I could be getting MORE compression than 'at new' on one cylinder and so much less on another. I also have a feeling that the problem is worse when petrol is low... Engine has only done 75k miles and has full VW main-dealer history. Have tried the old 'Italian tune-up' with Forte engine additive - no change. A knowledgeable friend has suggested it might be the Hydraulic valve lifters sticking..
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Tiguan 2.0 TSI 2009... Lately I am experiencing occasional engine vibrations, especially once the engine is cold, but do come even after engine has warmed up. Sometime even at highway speed, i could feel the vibration, but no effect on engine pull or acceleration. There is no noticeable engine misfiring. On few occasions, one starting, the engine does not pick the rpm and rattles with EPS, Oil and CHG light remaining on. A little press on the accelerator and engine gets to normal idle. The diagnostic computer does not show any fault. The local VW dealer after an expensive trouble shooting has 'diagnosed' POSSIBLE low fuel pump pressure, faulty ignition coils and ignition leads, and a heavy bill for replacements.
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VW Passat b5 1.9 TDi AVF engine ... When I start my car in cold the idle keep moving from 800 to 1100 rpm. and sometimes when i start the engine in hot it revs till 2000 rpm. I never scanned with vag com? I think G62 sensor problem???
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I have a 2004 F150 Lariat Supercrew 4x4 . I got a new transmission put in and a Oil change shortly after. A few weeks later I got a knocking noise. No check engine light, starts up great, No real notable problems just the noise. At Idle no noise just the usual cam phaser ticking, but once the engine is warmed up at about 1100 RPM it starts knocking like a . I took it to a few different shops one was sure it was the timing area so they replaced the timing chain, tensioner, pully. ect. Took it to a ford dealer where he didn't really look at it just said you need a new engine.
I went to another ford dealer where they said rod knock or stuck lifter but if that were the case shouldn't it knock constantly? another shop said VCT soleinods, Spark plugs. another said it could be the flex plate! I'm aware of the cam phaser diesel ticking noise they notoriously have but thats not it. I've parked it for a few years to be safe but started it weekly. I didn't intend on having it sit for so long but due to work situations and what not it has sat but now I'm on a mission to make it my daily driver again. I'm no mechanic but I'm not totally green to vehicle mechanics so ill be inspecting what i can within my limits.
YouTube video : [URL] .....
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Morning are getting colder engine runs at 1100 to warm up OK I understand that. But after running around town and engine is warm, I checked again, still at 1100 RPM. Shouldn't it be lower or is that what the batteries need?
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For last 3 months I have faced to a problem. My 2009 2.0 TSI, misfiring in cold start (in Summer!). When engine is cold (particularly in the mornings) in FIRST start, RPM goes to 1100 and engine works hard and car badly shakes. If I continue, engine light flashes. But if I just after first start, turn off the engine and restart it again, RPM comes back below 1000 and engine works well!!.
During first start a strange noise comes from the below of the car (Check...check...check...) but in second start everything is OK.
KM is 100k. I red the code and it usually shows P0302 (Misfire in cyl 2) and sometimes P0301 and P0300. I recently change all spark plugs (ngk) but problem had started before sparks change.
I switched the coils to see if misfiring follows the coil but negative.
I know it can have different reasons, PCV, carbon build up, EGR,..... but as it goes just after SECOND start I think it should be an electrical problem.
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I have Golf MK4 1.6 16V BCB '02 and problem while engine is running on idle. Engine works at 1100 rpm (doesn't matter is it cold or warm engine) all the time.
Dashboard turns CHECK ENGINE and EPC lamps and says : "engine workshop". At the beggining of problem VAG-COM diagnostic found this error:
17953 - Throttle Valve Controller: Malfunction
P1545 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
But after I've changed my old throttle body with new one VAG-COM diagnostic haven't reported any error (no permanent error) and idle issue stays.
While engine is running and Check engine and EPC lapms are turned on diagnostic reports this error:
17961 Barometric/Manifold pressure signals: Implausible Correlation
P1553-35-10 ----Intermittent
After engine is turned off diagnostic doesn't report any error!
Beside of changing throttle body, I've changed ECM, MAP sensor, temperature sensor, EGR valve, . Also checked intake manifold and hoses if is it leaky (doesn't leak anywhere), and timing belt is ok and checked complete wiring installation!!!
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I purchased my 2013 F350 PSD July of 2014 and immediately noticed "the shudder" when the engine was lugged down to 1000-1100 rpms on a hill. Sounding like somewhere around the turbo belching air too. At first I was startled but learned to manually downshift to higher rpms and it will stop. Once or twice I tried accelerating out of it and it shuddered as bad as the poster who said it made the steering shudder too.
My truck has 16,000 miles and I never let the rpms drop now. So I figure I have a real problem I'm not imaging. What should I tell my dealer is the TSB or remedy ?
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I have passat V6 3.0 lt, coolant receiver got broken and engine overheated. After replacement of the receiver, engine was opened for inspection and head gasket were replaced also. Engine then rebuilt but was misfiring/engine rattling!
Took it to car dealer workshop for inspection, electrical system were reported fine but two pistons/champers at least in the engine not delivering required power!
The statement is not certain and only a full overhaul to the engine might sort it out.
- Note:
- engine head was faced/skimmed before reinstated!!
- A piston block were found loose- not sure how!
- engine milage over 280k km
Would it worth to replace the engine completely with used one or even R36 if fits?
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I got 2006 vw passat 2.0, two weeks ago i replaced ignition coil pack on cylinder 3, and last Friday i replaced for second time same coil pack on cylinder 3, and today i got check engine, and it gives me a misfire on cylinder 3, it always giving me misfire on cylinder 3, the coil packs are all 4 new, i bought from a dealership, the other three coil packs does not give me a check engine, when i start the car, i feel little shaking, so what else i can do to fix this problem.
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I just purchased an 06 passat 2.0t with 59,000 miles on it. It has the 2 yr /24k mile warranty I've had it about a week.
Today I noticed something odd. The car is in motion, in an overdrive gear, idling (about 1500 rpm). When I push the accelerator lightly, I feel a very faint "pop" or "click" in both feet on the floorboard and can hear a faint click noise as the RPM increases. This happens at any speed, but is more noticable at higher speeds. Again, it is still hardly noticeable at all.
What concerns me is that it is a repeatable condition. Is this something I should worry about now or perhaps wait and see how it develops before worrying about it? It should be noted that there is no gear change when this happens.
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I purchased this 2001 Passat with 138,000 miles on it approximately 4 months ago. Since the purchase I have had the timing belt, water pump and tensioner belt replaced, also replaced the valve cover gasket, plugs, plug wires, back brakes, back rotors, bushings and linkage in sway bar. Now it is making a whining noise when accelerating and when the engine is revved while in neutral. The power steering fluid is between min and max. What this could possibly be? I am about at my end with this car!!!
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I have a 99 1.8T Passat (with automatic) and I hear it pinging slightly here and there when it is warm outside. I use name-brand premium gas every time. The spark plugs are fairly new and the temperature gauge consistently shows that it runs at 190 degrees F. I have 103,000 miles and it runs fine otherwise. It doesn't ping all the time, but does so intermittently when accelerating at fairly low RPM. I change the oil every 4,000 miles religiously and just switched to synthetic oil. The "check engine" light is not on and it easily passed the California smog check just a month ago. What it might be? Could it just be a little carbon buildup due to age?
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OK. I have done some searching and see that there are a few different options for motor, trans, and snub mounts. I am going to have them all replaced on my 99 1.8T wagon that currently has 130K with a manual trans. The only mods so far are Meyle HD control arms and 16" rims with Continental Extreme Contact Tires. I am looking for less movement in the drivetrain when accelerating and I want to get more power to the wheels. I am looking for an upgrade from OEM but do not need something track stiff. I care more about handling and performance than I do noise and vibration. But my wife also drives this car so it can not be ridiculous. I am thinking of the RS4 mounts mostly because they are an "OEM" upgrade. Which mounts do you like and WHY? Cost is not a factor.
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