Passat (B5) :: 1999 - Engine Revs To Around 2k RPM Or More When Start The Car
Jun 16, 2010
I have a 99 passat, manual transmission. This problem has occurred a few times, with a few weeks in between each instance. When it happens, it goes like this:
Start the car, engine revs to around 2k rpm or more. Then it settles down after a few seconds, and idles under 1k rpms. Now, sometimes it will do this and that is the end of it. Other times, I will be driving and the engine continues to rev more than it should. Instead of both the tachometer and speedometer being in sync, the tachometer tends to be higher- more so than normal.
Then, at times-usually in 3rd gear- I can actually take my foot off the gas and the car will continue to drive as if i had my foot on the pedal. When I slow do it is a struggle between the transmission and the engine - the engine does not want to slow down. What to do, especially with the intermittent of the problem.
View 3 Replies
Advertisement
So tonight my wife got off work at 7pm, she gives me a call and tells me she is on the side of the road. I was like wtf, what happened....anyways long story short I drive 30 miles out, by that time tow truck just arrived and flat beds the passat wagon to dealership.
So what my wife told me she got off work, drove about 2-3 miles down the road and then lost power and she pretty much came to a stop. Then she called me. Then tow truck came and towed it it dealer.
So issues I noticed, car starts fine, no engine lights on, but when you put in any gear, drive, reverse, sport mode etc. car does not move at all and engine just revs up. I'm think thing torque converter or something but really have no clue. Anyways tow truck tows car to dealer I start back up car and for f same car has power again can go forward, can go backwards! Yeah right, so I said let me see if I can drive around the block, so get in car start driving and then the power starts to fade and only drives about 100 feet before the lack of power happens and start to come to a stop. I did notice some slight grinding noise but by that time I wasn't moving anymore.
So we park in an open spot(had to push the beast) and then went home and here I sit and type my problem. What is going on and why all of a sudden without any notice this would happen. It has been a great car for us and we just had it in the dealer on Tuesday for oil change and they said everything looks good besides your rear pads are getting low... This just really sucks and couldn't of happened at a worse time. Just don't understand why the 2.0t transmission would do this all of a sudden. I pray that we don't need a new one replaced.
View 10 Replies
My Galant is having the above problem. I am providing some details (below) related to the problem: a) Check engine light was on. I took to a repair shop. The code was non specific. They did engine tune-up. The problem was not fixed. b) I took to Mitsubishi. They could not find any specific problem. They recommended changing CAM sensor. After replacement, problem still remains. c) Recently the car doesn't want to start. Check engine light is gone. Revving is still there at start and during stops. d) I have noticed some of the coolant splashing out to the adjacent tubing during driving. The coolant chamber is empty. But the engine heating indicator is in the middle.
View 4 Replies
I have a 2006 2.0 tdi 170 dpf passat. Some times the revs rise to 900-1000 rpm and the engine sounds more noisy than normal. Then the revs go back to normal at 800 rmp and the engine sounds normal, What can be the cause of this??
View 3 Replies
I have a 07 Passat, manual 2.0T, 90 kmiles.
There was a recall for some faulty circuit in the steering column, which got replaced in September. Ever since the replacement, about once a week (with a daily commute of 40 miles each way, mostly congested highway), the following happens:
First the engine revs up for a couple of seconds when I change gears, to 4-5kRPM. Then within 5 minutes, I get a "Parking Brake Fault" message, together with the yellow P light staying on. If I stop the engine, I cannot restart it for 30 minutes or so, there's a message that says "depress clutch first".
When I finally manage to restart, I won't have a problem for about a week. Is this common?
View 11 Replies
I got a brand new turbo installed on my 99 Passat 1.8T... i took it out of the shop and everything worked fine for a few kms (the turbo was installed by a mechanic and i was there for the installation, i made sure he connected all the hoses ext...). after some time I am driving on the highway with around 110 and i decide to pass someone so i drop it down to 3rd gear, the revs go up to 3500 and the car started choking up(exactly the same thing as if the Air Mass Flow sensor was disconnected or removed) the problem continued. I disconnected the battery to restart the computer, also i have a brand new air filter and a brand new gas filter. If the new turbo is pushing more boost could it be that the car is not getting enough air through the regular intake?
View 2 Replies
I recently had my PCM flashed due to the deceleration safety recall. My engine now revs to 2200 rpm when I start it even if the engine is hot. It goes down to 750 rpm after about 30 seconds. My engine before the recall, reved from 1200 to 1400 rpm when starting. My dealer and ford tell me 2200 rpm is normal but I think it is too high.
View 7 Replies
Alright i got a 1999 Passat 1.8t, that I just did a new head gasket, turbo swap on and FMIC, the problem is that the heat only comes in at high revs and at speeds of 35+ and it's getting really annoying now with it being winter and I leave my car for 10 minutes in the cold and come back to see the whole interior side of the glass is frozen..
Also, my driver's side window will not go down, theirs a clicking noise you can hear when I press down on the switch?
View 5 Replies
I have a 2005 Camry and it was stalling while driving occasionally. It had gotten worse, so I cleaned the throttle body as was suggested. Now, when I try to start it, the engine revs really high then goes back down and dies. This is without putting any pressure on the accelerator. What to do next?
View 1 Replies
I just bought a used 93 accord. The engine is in good shape and runs smoothly most of the time, but I have two issues.
First, when I start the engine cold, there is a very loud belt squealing for about 3 or 4 seconds. Is this a common problem and, if I isolate the belt at fault, what should I do about it?
Second, the engine revs (both audibly and on the tach) when I press on the brakes. I've been told by a friend it might be a vacuum leak?
View 5 Replies
Ok, did an intake manifold cleaning on my 99 Accord the other day, and now I have problems...
Long story short, some time ago my car started to have a very rough idle. Took me awhile to find the problem. Turned out the air hose, between the filter and throttle body, had developed a big hole on the underside. So I replaced it and while I was at it used some throttle body cleaner, spraying into the intake manifold chamber. Lot of junk blew out the tailpipe. The car ran much better, but the idle could still be a little rough. I ran it that way for awhile, and finally the other day decided there was probably still some junk in there and it was time to really clean it out. So I took ff the throttle body and intake manifold housing. There was a lot of junk in there! The small intake on the passenger side was completely clogged shut. (I understand this isn't surprising on these cars.) I used a bunch of rags and 2 cans of Valvoline throttle body cleaner and a lot of elbow grease and cleaned it out. I was thinking to myself that whatever I didn't get with the rags flushed through OK, but I didn't want to take the whole intake manifold out.
So I put it all back together. (I took a video before I started, so I'm pretty sure it's all back together right.) But now I have problems. The car starts. It idles fine mostly, but can be a bit rough. But the trouble starts when I put the pedal down. If I do it in Park, well, if I push it quick the engine just dies. If I push it slow, the engine revs then quits, revs and quits, over and over. Similar if it's in gear. If I push it hard, the engine stalls. If I push it gentle, it revs up, but chugs along a bit.
I've run some seafoam through it, thinking it was clogged up with all that junk, and sure enough, lots of smoke comes out, but nothing is improving so far. What have I done wrong?
View 19 Replies
So I sea foamed the passat vac/intake 2 days ago and car drove fine then did oil change 1 day ago 5/30 all I had with additive resline. Since then car revs then shifts into gear or stays in wrong gear until I rev the car. Never had problem shifting until now. Low oil pressure or electrical issue from sea foam vacuum leak.
2002 VW Passat 2.8 AWD
View 1 Replies
Here's my problem, when I'm on a hill and I engage first and let go of the clutch the car revs but the clutch doesn't grip tight. It's slow to engage but during regular driving my clutch is fine. My only problem is on hills.
View 9 Replies
Before the question, this is what I have, 2001 V6 4-motion, Automatic. So tonight I was driving home from work. As I started off, the car shifted 1st-2nd fine, then when it hit third it just revs, felt like it was slipping or missing then kick to forth or second hard, then lit up all the the PRND234 on the dash instead of being in just drive. When I pulled over and restarted my car it clear but did the same thing. What is going on??? It happened once before (for a split second) but has been fine ever since. I just bought the car 3 months ago and the car has ran solid since i purchased it.
View 3 Replies
My mechanic and friend noticed my axle was starting to fail about a few weeks ago and Ive just been waiting to get it taken care of when I have time. Last night my battery died and I got a jump start. After the jump I get in and drive down the street a little ways and notice the ESP light came on. She was also running a little rough at idle and I started getting nervous. So instead of getting my Micky Dees I turned around and went home. Of coarse this happens at 3am the night before I have to open up at work at 11.. This mourning I get in the car and warm her up to see how shes acting. I decided to still drive her because I had no other option. The MIL light popped on now too and I think its related to my axle failing. So im wondering I guess how much longer I have til this thing completely goes and what would happen if it went while I was driving? Ive never had to replace an axle before or and an issue with one so this is a subject I know very little about. Also is it worth it to get RAXLES for stock?
So after my battery died like I said I got a jump start from my buddy and after I jumped it the car seems to rev at idle now. Freaked me out! Would all the sudden start revving to 2k rpm and then stop. When I drove it to work almost every time I stopped it would rev a little bit but when I gas it it would stop. After doing research there are a few conclusions I have reached. First I read it could be a throttle body sticking? Then I read the jump start could have fried my ecu or it could be a simple as a loose wire to the motor from a bypass valve?
Im not sure if the jump start did anything bad. Its possible its a coincidence still but my car was fine before the jump. Also on a side note my ecu was already flashed when I purchased the car. The flash is from EIP I believe because there is a eip sticker on the battery case. Personally I think the MIL light is related to the axle but the weird idling is what scares me.
View 8 Replies
I posted awhile back about my R not wanting to start. It will start, just not turn over right away, but it will start the first time. However, it feels like it's going to stall out because the revs don't climb very high at all (1k at best) when it usually goes just over 1k to start, then drops down to 5-600rpms.
Yesterday, after it sat in the hot sun for nearly 3 hours, it cranked but didn't start right away. It had started right up when I left my house to go to the gym, and I drove it 5 miles to the gym.
Then again, this morning, after it had been sitting outside all night, I went to start it and it just didn't sound right when it started, like maybe fuel wasn't getting to the engine.
The car has 31,500 miles on it, has had all recalls done, and the battery checked out last month. The battery was fine, so it's not the problem. I have been doing some research on this issue, and have come up with the following things to have the dealer check:
-fuel pump
-fuel pump relay
-coil packs
-crank position sensor
-fuel pump fuse
-fuel filter
-injectors
-alternator
-starter motor
-crank angle sensor
-cam sensor
-check all grounds
-check fuses
And to top it off, I just drove it down the road and the sunroof randomly opened on its own. I have never had that happen before! Do you think the two are related at all? I'm just wanting to make sure what to tell the dealer when I drop it off later this afternoon. I ran a vag-com scan last night and there were no electrical or engine fault codes found, so I don't know what is up with it.
View 13 Replies
It is pretty common knowledge that when we start our cars they initially rev to ~1200rpm for a minute or two and slowly drop down to just below 800rpm. I generally use this as the "warmup" time for the car and try not to drive until the rpms drop. But lately in this cooler weather (<20F) when I start my car the revs do not go to 1200rpm, they start right around 800rpm and don't fluctuate. Why this might be happening?
Last winter I did not pay attention to the revs so I can't confirm or deny that this happened before. But I do notice it only in cooler temps. If it is much above 30F the car will start like normal.
Only engine mods are APR stage 1+; VWR intake and APR HPFP.
View 13 Replies
I bought this car and I've changed out the Clutch Position Sensor, the black one on the clutch mount. Started to work and start but now it's doing the same symptoms as before. So here is what is going on.
1. Randomly doesn't start, full power comes on, and fuel system turns on, immobilizer works just fine as far as I can tell (key light turns off)
2. Cruise control doesn't work (which lead me to the CPS)
3. High revs between shift, once I push the clutch to shift it revs up high, I noticed that if I stay under 3k it doesn't do it as much, but if I go HAM on it it revs up about 1k rpm more than at shift point. But if I shift nice it revs about 2-400 rpm.
It's been tuned by C2 Motorsports, done by a certified mechanic, that's the only mod on the car, besides suspension. I bought the car and dropped 1100 to fix it to drive right, newish throttle body, and a major vacuum hose, and the tune within a month of getting the car and the tune was to mainly flash the ecu so it wouldn't pull two codes for a leak that wasn't there anymore.
View 5 Replies
2003 Escape Limited V6 Auto 4x4 ... I am having issues with poor fuel milage and starting the SUV...
When i go to start the truck it winds over for abit then starts and revs really high?!?!? I did a complete tuneup, plugs, filter, fuel filter, oil and filter... I changed the fuel pump which has the fuel regulator built into it. I have no codes on the dash. Also if i am at a red light and i put it to the floor I MEAN TO THE FLOOR!!! the truck bogs then drives off NO POWER!!!
Im stumped! I dont know what to do and dont want to keep replacing expensive parts... fuel pump, etc...
View 14 Replies
I have 95 ranger 3.0L revs up over 2000rpm at startup then comes down slowly to a little over 1000... Changed the IAC valve still does it... When I let it warm up I unplug the IAC and idles normal and smooth about 750 RPM so I don't think it's a vac leak... What else could it be???
View 5 Replies
I have a 2013 Passat TDI with remote starter, when I start the car it runs until I unlock the doors and then the engine shuts off, I know there is something I am doing wrong but can't seem to find the information in the manual on how to keep the engine running.
View 6 Replies
