Passat (B5) :: 1999 AEB Seems To Sputter Before It Takes Off / Misfire Briefly On Freeway
May 1, 2007
I have a 99 passat 1.8t AEB. I currently have the APR 91 Octane chip. However, I now have the "new and improved" EO5 turbo, ported polished head, port matched intake and exhaust manifolds, Forge diverter valve, Apr turbo inlet, K&N drop in filter, N75 valve, ECS lightweight crank pulley.
When first getting to full throttle the car seems to sputter b4 it takes off. The other day it registered a misfire briefly on the freeway. I have some Genesis 380cc injectors on the way but there has to be a software upgrade of some kind to run smoother!
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My car sits with 45,000 kms on the clock. Had it stock for the first 5k kms and then went stage 1 w/dp and intake. Have been beating the ever living piss out of this car since, and more so since stage 2 got revised again. At about 30k kms I started to develop a random sputter/misfire that was only really noticeable at idle, more so with a mount insert installed. Approaching my winter tire changeover and oil change I had planned to do this past weekend I ordered some maintenance stuff from ECS (filters, spark plugs, spare coil just in case). I had recently got a CEL with a "cylinder 2 misfire" code. I cleared it and it came back within a couple of days, again cylinder 2. Great, nice and easy..Sorta.
Picked up my parcel from the WA post office and installed the coil right there to see if it would go away. And...... NOT. Not worried at this point as I figured the plugs were just toast from so much hard driving for the past 40k kms. Got her into the shop last night and did my tire changeover, oil change, put the factory coil back in and changed the plugs. Here is what I found hiding in cylinder #2,
The car runs so smooth. It's like I found another 10hp lol. Definitely recommend changing up the plugs if tuned and putting kms or miles on the car. With the added power I'm guessing the life span drops off quickly.
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I have a 2002 Mazda Tribute V6 with 151K. My check engine light has come off and on for quite a while now, mostly it would come on when it rained and then go off when the weather cleared. When it was on, the engine would sputter or misfire. I first had Auto Zone hook it up and they said it needed its plugs and wires changed. No problem. I took it in to a repair place and was informed that I don't have plugs and wires, but something with coils and that since it was impossible to determine which coil was bad, all would have to be replaced at a cost of $1500. I then took it to another repair place and they said the same thing. Now I have seen some discussions regarding this same thing and apparently some people have been able to identify a specific coil. At this point my check engine light is now on all the time and I'm really worried about doing terrible damage.
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So, my check engine light has been on for months. I knew that I needed a new oxygen sensor (block 1-pre-cat), so I replaced it today after the car began to sputter and misfire. Well, I thought that would fix the problem, but it hasn't. Some of the hesitation is gone, but the sputtering is still very bad. I'm going to replace the spark plugs tomorrow and see if that works. I was also told to clean out the catalytic converter, but I don't know how to take it off. It wouldn't hurt to just bang out all the debris. Any DIY on taking off a catalytic converter for a 2000 VW Golf GTI 1.8T?
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I have a 2004 santa fe with the 2.7L v6. I was driving and then it started to sputter and then stalled. I tried to restart, but the the engine would crank but no start. I came back to it about half hour later it started up as if there was no problem, and then after a 10 minute ride it stalled and did the same thing.I got it home and scanned it, came up with a couple misfire codes, a crank sensor code, and improper segment timing code ( I never heard of improper segment timing ). Also after fuel fill ups it never wants to start or stay running. I researched the fill up problem and found the purge canister valve to be bad. I haven't changed the purge valve yet, would that have anything to do with the stalling? If the crank sensor was bad, would it start later if it sat for a while. With my experiences when a crank sensor goes bad, the vehicle wont restart at all.
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2000 GTI GLS 2.0L ... I understand I need to replace the Ignition Coil Pack on my car. I have looked on ECS Tuning to find the coil pack, but from all the pictures I see of other people coil packs they look nothing like what mine do. So I'm wondering if they are different for my specific car? So the issue that I have is my engine sputters sometimes, but more so when is wet outside. Its only cylinder 2 misfiring currently, and I replaced my Fuel Filter and Fuel Pump already in the past 4 or 5 months. Also a local shop had done some work recently and I know they had replaced the spark plugs. So I'm just wondering what coil packs I need for my car, and how I would go about replacing them. From what I saw online with other 2.0L (They weren't GTIs tho) was that the coild pack was behind the SIA pump or something like that, and they are a small black box. It looks to me that my coil packs are inline above the spark plugs and cylinders?
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2005 Echo auto 120,000 km
I have intermittent misfiring (a few seconds every couple minutes) and get the codes 301 and sometimes 304/300. I cant drive out of my driveway without a sputter and when I turn into a parking spot or make a quick stop the problem is magnified. I initially suspected a wiring / coil issue but here are my results:
Shuffled coil packs. (1/2 & 3/4)
Shuffled fuel injectors.
Good compression.
Swapped ECM.
Inspected wiring harness.
Goof EFI / cutoff relays.
None of these led to any change in the codes (300, 301, 304)
Yesterday I swapped the fuel pump and it worked flawlessly for an hour of city driving (first time in two months) ... then the issue returned as before.
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Summary of Events:
Lower radiator hose decided to disconnect itself.
Stopped and had car towed home.
Connected hose and filled coolant system.
Car is hesitant to start and takes a couple seconds of cranking.
Misfires in cylinder 3, and a few in cylinder 5, no other codes.
New OEM plugs, no change.
Swapped coil packs around, no change.
Idle is rough but at speed, everything is smooth.
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Drove 28mi out to dinner and when leaving after, she wouldn't start. Took it to work in the morning, and it ran fine prior to that. It was 15degrees outside, added heat to the gastank thinking the fuel line was frozen. Tryed to fire on, but it would only idle briefly surging while doing so and die, like not enough gas. It did start after I held the key down during this surging process grinding the starter also, should have driven home, but I shut it off like a idiot, as a result, had to tow home. Noticed TCS OFF light was lite up while it was running, then I shut it off, TCS OFF LIGHT went away when I turned key back on to attempt a 2nd restart. After i did that, it wouldn't fire on again. Towed to my house, I do not hear the fuel pump trying to kick on when i turn on the key. Fuel system is dry. Cranked over next day and definitely no gas in the lines. Bled the fuel system, no fuel shot out. Have checked the fuse box and the one under the hood too. Replaced the fuel pump relay but still no go just (this blows)...
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Everything seems to be working added fluid to reserve tank it was low checked hoses at firewall and felt them they were warm. When I play with the climate control buttons I get some warm air very briefly thru dash panel vents but otherwise cold to floor etc.
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My 4x4 on my 2000 model f350 will not engage. The light works, comes on briefly on startup of the engine. When I flip the switch nothing happens. When I jumper the relays nothing happens. I do not have the factory hubs, they r warn hubs and the vacuum line to them is capped off. How to figure this out on why the 4x4 will not engage?
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the wife's '01 Excursion has developed a new idling quirk. While sitting, it will briefly drop rpm's. You can hear it, and see it on the tach gauge. No other noises or problems, except for the brief drop in rpm's.
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Now that I have been driving for a while I kept seeing this light come on/off and I did a video below - I don't generally flash my lights so don't think I am aggressive - but I wanted to make sure to capture the video and the light coming on.
I was thinking valve cover connection the 50 cent mod - and maybe it's all coincidental - but I did have to pressure wash the troph where the oil collects and maybe something else got knocked loose.
[URL] .....
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i have a 1998 passat 1.8t and in the past week my car started a slight sputter when i get on the gas and it gradually got worse the car starts up fine and idles perfect i did a compression check all 4 cylinders are exactly 150 psi now the problem just got worse when i go to leave a light or when im cruising down the highway and grt on it it sputters or and like pops or backfires outta the exhaust i just replaced the fuel filter and i still have the problem im stumped
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Past few mornings, I had a bit of trouble starting my 2002 Passat V6 (60K miles); car would start, and sputter. After a few times of this, the car would eventually turn over, and would be a little rough once I put it in gear for the first few hundred feet or so.
Brought it up to North Penn VW in Colmar, and the service tech said it had to do with the ethanol in fuel settling to the bottom of the tank, and not being potent enough to fire the engine, and normal acceleration would be enough to burn this stuff out of the lines and/or where the gas and ethanol would mix.
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So, I got in my car this morning, it started fine, no CEL, pulled out onto the main road and while while accelerating, it started to sputter and the CEL flashed several times. I turned back into my neighborhood, expecting it to stall, but it didn't. I sat there for a second, it was running fine, but I felt a few slight rumbles while idling, enough to make me nervous, but not enough to prevent me from continuing to work (I'm out of PTO).
So, I continued on, no CEL, accelerated and the sputtering happened again, slowed down, lightly pressed the gas pedal and it was fine. I made it to work. I just got the APR programming on Monday. I ordered the TT225 diverter valve.
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So I was driving home from when my engine started to sputter once it hit 4000 rpm and the CEL came on so I figured it was my plugs and coils, I changed all of those and unplugged my battery to get the CEL to go away, now all of a sudden my computer is crazy, I have a lot of indicators and my gears indicators are all highlighted, when I start the car and put in it gear is shifts really hard, I just don't know what to do!
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I just got my 04 Passat chipped from APTuning 2 days ago and I was wondering if i need to tighten the gap on my spark plugs? Car runs wonderfully but in high boost it seems to sputter a bit, and i was hoping that tightening the gap was going to solve this issue. If i do have to tighten the gap, do i need to do this for each program? I have 4 programs on the chip (stock, 91 octane, 93 octane and 100 octane). I am sure that i'm going to keep it to 91 octane for 99% of the time.
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Car :1.8 20v SE 1999 passat adr engine .....
1st prob#: whilst at stand still, in neutral gently accelerating to approx 1100 rpm the engine will rev up/down all on its own, pedal remains steady
2nd prob#: car also has intermittent misfire. I checked the coilpacks using water mist & definite arc/spark
3rd prob#: car has definite judder ,felt through heel/knee kinda bouncing /vibration sensation seems to happen at 35+, light throttle, constant speed, can acc through but thinking all probs related.
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So, I just picked up a 99 1.8T Wagon with 158k miles a couple days ago and after driving it a bit, I've noticed a couple things.
1. The coolant temp isn't reading, I assume this is probably the coolant sensor.
2. Occasionally the car will go into a rough idle and misfire when I put my foot on the gas. Could this just be a spark plug issue or something bigger? The PO did mention that he just replaced the plugs and I've read in previous threads about the subject that the 1.8ts are picky about plugs.
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Cold start issues that my 2006 2.0T Passat is having. A few weeks ago, during a stretch of cold weather (10-20F), my Passat would sputter when I tried starting it up. It would either start and immediately shut off, would attempt to turn over, and generally on the 3rd attempt would turn over and run fine. I was only having this issue in the morning, and it would start fine when I would leave work (9 hour shifts).
I got my battery tested, and it proved to be failing. Replaced it. A few days later cylinder 4 started to misfire. I replaced all spark plugs and coil packs (85k on the car). During this service discovered that my oil had gotten some moisture in it and have off-white residue, flushed oil, replaced with new filter. A few days go by and I get code P2181 (cooling system performance). I cleared this out earlier today and it hasn't come back (50 miles later).
Are things just starting to go at the same time, or might there be another underlying issue? I have plans to flush the tranny and do the timing belt/coolant/water pump in the next month.
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