Passat (B5) :: 1999 1.8t Misfiring At Idle And Battery Light Flashing
Mar 17, 2011
I got a 99 1.8t. Here's the deal, misfiring at idle, flashes battery light. alt and battery was checked and there great. it has a maf code, so I unplug the maf and still get the same misfiring. maf was fine be4 i tried cleaning it, now it throws the code. it had misfiring be4 i clean it also. next problem is it stutters and misses if i go wot in 4 or 5 gear and the batt light flashes it doesn't throw a misfire code. Also if I am idling and i floor it, it stutters and misses at lower rpm rage and then is fine at higher rpm range. i replaced plugs and gapped em right, i did a power balance test and the coils all are firing so is the injectors. I don't got vag but i do got a good obd2 scanner i was looking at the data wen car was off and i seen that if i floor it the tps only reads 77.7% . Also my timing says its 12 degrees and idle fuel pressure is fine i checked with a gauge. Pretty much misfiring with no codes thrown and flashing battery light.
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My 99 Explorer XLT V6 SOHC has been misfiring lately. In idle the RPM needle fluctuates a bit and the vehicle vibrates and shakes. At night when the lights are on I notice them dim a bit as the engine struggles in idle. It doesnt stall very often at all. Accelerating I notice way less power and the engine studders. Thats when the engine light comes on flashing. Then remains on solid afterwards.
I brought it to a mechanic friend who read the code and it was cylinder two misfire as well as O2 censor. I replaced the plugs and leads and censor. Noticed the plug in cylinder two had little to no gapping. Thought I had fixed the problem. Vehicle ran perfect. Three or four days later driving on the hwy same problem came back. Thinking it must be the coil pack I got one for a good price and replaced it.
Again, the truck ran great for four days and now the problem has returned. Same thing, shaking studdering and flashing engine light. I have verified the locations of the wires and plugs a few times so i believe they are all properly installed.
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My 99 Explorer XLT V6 SOHC has been misfiring lately. In idle the RPM needle fluctuates a bit and the vehicle vibrates and shakes. At night when the lights are on I notice them dim a bit as the engine struggles in idle. It doesn't stall very often at all. Accelerating I notice way less power and the engine studders. That's when the engine light comes on flashing. Then remains on solid afterward. I brought it to a mechanic friend who read the code and it was cylinder two misfire as well as the O2 censor.
I replaced the plugs and leads and censor. Noticed the plug in cylinder two had little to no gaping. Thought I had fixed the problem. The vehicle ran perfectly. Three or four days later driving on the hwy same problem came back. Thinking it must be the coil pack I got one for a good price and replaced it. Again, the truck ran great for four days and now the problem has returned. Same thing, shaking studdering and flashing engine light. I have verified the locations of the wires and plugs a few times so i believe they are all properly installed.
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Yesterday out of no where my rio started to misfire so i immediately took it into autozone to have it checked. when doing so the check engine light was on, but solid.
The tests came back with P0300, P0301, and P0302 or 3. I cant find the papers, but its 3 cyns that are misfiring. The guy at autozone suggested i try changing out the plugs first since its cheaper and has been known to fix this issue.
The second I bought the plugs I went home and changed them out. once finished i started up the car and not only was the car still misfiring, but the check engine light is now flashing... I did notice one thing when changing the plugs.
If facing the engine the second coil from the left had a bit of what looked to be rust. i was able to wipe it off with ease. What my next move should be?
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So a few days ago my engine developed a misfire, flashing MIL light etc...long story short it was cylinder 5's ignition coil. When we scanned it, we picked up a misfire on cylinder 5, and a slight misfire on cylinder 1. Replaced the coil, as well as new spark plugs, cleared the codes, and everything was peachy.
NOW, driving home today.....once again. Misfire, MIL light etc. I'm not a mechanic so I am wondering if it is common for all the coils to go around the same time, or if this is probably just cylinder 1 now going. I'm going to once again get it scanned, but before then...is there anything that could cause ignition coils to just start going bad, other than age.
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I own a 2000 accent. Broke down, called racq, they said it was electrical problem with fuel pump and my car would kick over after someone cranks it and another person bangs the underside of the fuel tank a few times(exterior). then broke down again and car wouldn't start at all, had no spark would only crank not kick over, I took it to a mechanic and he found out it was the fuel relay switch so he replaced that and the car was running again, however it was only running on 3 cylinders and the fuel light would flash/turn on for seconds/ flick on and off even with a full tank.
Took it back to the mechanic and he said the fuel lines were blocked and needed new fuel filter so after he fitted all that was still running terrible, would misfire, fuel light still flashed and driving it around drank the fuel. Found out that it was the first cylinder that was the problem. I changed the sparkplugs and no difference
So I went to a car wreckers and replaced the 1st fuel injector (got it for 5 dollars off an accent that was wrote off from the back end) once i fitted the injector it started to run better. It is now running at about 75%. doesnt go as hard as it use to, still misfires, still drinking the fuel and the fuel light is always off and on when I am driving. It has low revs in idle mode so it rattles/shakes heavily as well and smell of fuel in the back seats every now and then.
oh and a side note - drove it a few nights ago and the clutch pedal is 'loose'... as in the grab is near enough clutch in 7/8ths of the way(near the floor) and when the clutch is fully out there is alot of 'play' which is when you press the clutch in a quarter of the way its nothing, no tension or anything just floppy, but im not 100% sure if the clutch cable needs tightening or something worse( i only replaced clutch about 2 months ago so it couldn't be burnt out?)
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I’ve been having a bit of a problem with my 99 Nissan Sentra that is becoming more and more costly every day. It started with my airbag light flashing, so I pulled over to see what might be wrong. I turned the car off, and when I went to start it again it wouldn’t start. I had the battery checked out and it was fine; I ended up changing the starter and the ignition switch. This worked for a week. Later I left my car running in the morning to warm it up, and it did the same thing, the airbag light came on and the battery went dead.
I jumped it and the battery wore itself out again, so this time I took it to the mechanic to replace the alternator. This worked for a week. This time my wife was driving down the highway, the airbag light came on again, and the battery went dead. After a costly tow from the police impound to my home, it will jump, but the battery slowly dies. The only noticeable problems the car has (aside from the obvious battery going dead) is that there is a belt that squeals when I have the air conditioner turned on and I have an oil leak somewhere.
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I have a 1996 ford taurus lx v6 3.0 dohm..my check engine light flashing. then it stop flashing..i did replace spark plug,wires,coil pack..when it start to flash i put it gear the car start to shake and sputter.i really don't know why its doing that the car has about 150000 miles on it..i do get a code p0302 Cylinder #2 Misfire..the new plugs and wires and coil pack is about 2 weeks old..
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I drove home Saturday morning from work with no issues. Car sat until Monday night and as soon as I had to stop at a light it was idling very rough where the rpms were jumping 3-400 up and down. I make it to work and on the way home I experienced the same idling issue along with some misfiring. I scanned and came up with the following codes. I have no CEL. I had my APR flash, Forge Intake, Turbo back exhaust all installed 2 and a half years ago. I have owned the car for four years never having replaced the DV or PCV. 87,000 miles.
10 Faults Found:
001090 - EVAP Emission Control Sys
P0442 - 001 - Small Leak - Intermittent
012403 - Fuel Pump Circuit
P3073 - 004 - Electrical Malfunction - Intermittent
004759 - Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve (check D.V.!)
P1297 - 001 -
004243 - Bank 1; Fuel Measuring System 2
P1093 - 008 - Malfunction - Intermittent
000768 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 002 - - Intermittent
000769 - Cylinder 1
P0301 - 002 - Misfire Detected - Intermittent
000772 - Cylinder 4
P0304 - 002 - Misfire Detected - Intermittent
000770 - Cylinder 2
P0302 - 002 - Misfire Detected - Intermittent
008825 - Leak in Air Intake System
P2279 - 002 -
000771 - Cylinder 3
P0303 - 002 - Misfire Detected - Intermittent
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We have a 2008 f250 super duty with the 5.4 triton well ever since I replaced the power steering pump its been running raggedly, it idles rough and when i get up to 50, 55, 60 the check engine light comes on i put a diagnostic reader on it and said something along the lines of ECU bank 1 an Bank 2. What that is and I've been a mechanic for almost 3 years.
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B5 passat. Recently she took her car to the shop bc her cel was on. turned out her turbo was blown so she got it replaced with a brand new one along with the oil pump. about 3 days later the check engine light comes back on..idle is very rough and it feels like its misfiring.
First thing i did was check the coilpacks bc it was why my audi would always misfire but it didn't work. So she took it back to the shop and they said that her ecm is dying. Ive never heard of that happening.
The codes that came up from the CEL the second time were p0171, p0172, p0173, p0303
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2002 Ford Focus SE with 130k miles on it. For the past 4 months the battery light flashes randomly while driving. The flashing and frequency of flashing doesn't seem related to anything I can tell including temperature, length of time the car is running, speed or any variable. Seems like it should be an alternator, but that was replaced less than an year ago and it also has a new battery. The alternator always checks out fine at the mechanic and it will never flash for the mechanic. It went 1 month with no flashing and suddenly it will now flash maybe 20 times in a 5 mile drive. Yesterday it just died at a stoplight with no warning, but then after shutting everything off it started just fine and the battery light didn't turn on for the 2 miles to home.
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Im having an issue with my 2000 f250 7.3 diesel. 4x4. The od light is flashing and the tranny is kind of jerky when it shifts. Also my truck won't go into 4 low. (I have shift on the fly) and every time I put it in park my truck revs up to 2000 rpm for a few seconds. I do have a ts 6 pos. Chip with can tunes on it. And I have already replaced the IPR. It does it even in stock setting.
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I have a 99 passat that the oil light will flash and the tach is inop then out of the the blue it stars working. was wondering if any 1 has had this issue. I checked the wiring didn't find no bad wires and i tried another cluster same thing.
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My battery light come on this morning. The volt meter is sitting right where it always has though. I noticed that the battery light is kind of pulsating with rpm and at idle its very very dim.
E99 F-250 PSD ....
Where should I start?
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I bought a 7.3 f250 with 300k mi. It had a battery light on but didn't show any signs of trouble. Eventually started dropping volts a few days later and I replaced the alternator. The light is still on and flickers in time with the idle of the truck and sometimes goes out when I'm on the gas pedal. Some nights when the lights are on the voltage drops ever so slowly until its drained. Why the new alternator didn't fix the problem? NAPA's scanner says the truck has 12.4V at idle and 12.1V at idle with the lights on. Batteries are relatively new and test fine, dual Interstate Mega-tron Plus batteries-top of the line.
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I had to choose the Yukon, as there is no Suburban?
Anyway, I have a very bad misfire in my truck. Lopes at idle stumbles under load. Through substitution, I have tested: module, coil, and crank sensor. I have replaced: plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air filter, fuel filter and upgraded from SCFI to MFI (can you say "expensive best guess"?).
Still getting P-0300, P-0302 and mostly P-0304, using a Snap-on Modis scanner.
Compression tested today: all cylinders between 160- & 170 psi. After this, leak-down seemed redundant.
Back pressure test: 0.5 psi at 2500 RPM, both banks.
Steady fuel at about 60 psi.
I am going to pull distributor (175K miles) and examine drive gear. Not too sloppy at rotor bearing. However, how do I set baseline timing when I re-install distributor? If the distributor is OK, what test or part should I look at next?
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I've done just about everything me or my mechanic cannot figure out why cylinder #3 is misfiring has new plugs coilpacks checked wires etc. I love this car and will not put it to sleep!!
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Ok. Im going to keep this as short as possible. I bought my 05 passat 1.8t AWM TIP used in 09 with 44k
At around 90k I started getting a Random misfire only at idle. And it would be a different cylinder, not always the same would come back after clearing. The RPMs would be very low like around 840. And i think it should be around 920-960. That seems to be one of the main issues. Everything on the car is stock.
So basically, If my CEL starts flashing, and I clear it, I could drive a million miles with no misfires, but as soon as it starts to idle they come back ( I do have vag-com) and know how to use it for basic functions.
This is what has been done:
July 2011:
Engine rebuild (bad piston rings due to clogged cat converter)
Timing belt Kit (Timing was off 5 degrees!!!)
brand new turbo KO3, and Oil feed line
DV
N75 valve
Fuel Pump
Fuel Filter
Fuel Pressure regulator
MAF sensor
ECU swapped out (old ECU would not go through all steps for Throttle body alignment)
So, after all this and 3 weeks later, I get the car back and it ran great the whole way home. Put it in park waited 5 seconds, and the random misfires came back. So it went back to the shop the next day.
September 2011
These things were done:
Crank Position sensor
Cam position sensor
Compression test ( to make sure he didn't make a mistake while rebuilding motor) Results were Perfect
Leakdown test
Map sensor
Another MAF
2 O2 sensors
Upgraded DV
Fuel injectors
Removed engine wiring harness and OHMed every single wire. Nothing wrong
OEM Coilpacks
3 sets of copper plugs
Throttle body was swapped with 2 others from known working cars.
Trans pan replaced fluid flushed and new trans filter
I have heard this is a fairly common thing on the B5.5 models...
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The battery light (but not the ! warning light) suddenly started flashing a week ago, and then a day later the car wouldn't start so I took it in for repair. Was told the battery needed to be replaced, but that it was drained because the alternator was defective. So both replaced. Within one day of driving it home, the battery and various other lights started flashing anew (which had happened last after it was jumped and while I was driving it into the mechanic the first time). Car then went dead again after turning off ignition. Wouldn't start.What's wrong with the car? BTW, mechanic has car (which we towed in) and now can't get problem to recur despite his having driven it around several times, for shorter and longer trips! My sixth sense tells me as soon as I pick the car up and drive home, I'll get the loss of battery/power experience and it going dead yet again! He says he checked for short wires and belt issues.
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I'm fairly new to these cars. I just bought one used 2 weeks ago. lately in the very cold new england mornings i am seeing the battery light flash at me when downshifting on the highway. seems to go away after about 5 miles and doesn't happen every day. Belt and the tension look ok. My car is stock and has 52k on it.
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