Passat (B5) :: 1999 1.8t Started To Shudder - CEL Flashing
Jul 7, 2011
So, a couple days ago, my car started to shudder a little bit and the check engine came on and started flashing. I pulled over and restarted it and it came back but then it went away. I tried to take it to Auto Zone the other day but for some reason my car wont communicate with their diagnostic computer. I read that its probably the coil packs but I want to be sure before I spend the money. I changed the spark plugs which were in desperate need of being replaced and it went away for a day and the CEL went off but it just came back today. I'm gonna try a different auto parts stores diagnostic computer before I give up on checking that.
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My wife's 03 B5.5 with 130K has started to shudder really bad during all shifts, up or down.
The trans has never been serviced since that is what we were advised upon original purchase.
I've heard of valve body replacement and/or a service including a power flush. filter and screen cleaning might do the trick.
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Ii had drove my car about 20 miles and after i had got inside and turned it on to drive it again CEL started flashing and car was sputtering lost power and felt like it didn't want to move so I had taken it to a VW specialist and he diagnosed it and told me its my coil pack and its got a bit water inside it and I would need to replace it and he said he would charge me $300 to replace ...
So I figured if its just the coil pack I could most likely do it myself and could this be from the coil pack? and why would there be water in my spark plug? Should I replace all coil or just the one that's bad.
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I just had my 25k service a month ago. Left car in MSP airport lot for a week and when we were driving home to Duluth last night, the check engine light came on and started flashing and the engine started to stall and run very rough.
Drove slowly to get home, noticed HUGE burning smell under hood, opened it and this part under engine on left side was a glowing fireball red cylinder. 1.8t, have all my maintenance done at dealership. Car ran fine for 126 miles on the way home and it just came on and started flashing
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I am at work and dont have access to my manual. I was driving into work today and the outside temp gauge dropped from 40 to 39 then chimed and flashed as if to say "he it dropped below 40 outside" then it showed a little snowflake picture next to the temp. I have only had the car since summer-so why was it telling me it dropped to 39?
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I have a 2000 vw 2.8 v6.
I got it back in February and it ran great up until now. A couple months ago while driving home my cel started flashing and right when the light came on I could immediately feel an immense loss in power and when I got to a red light it would shake like mofo. Gettin up to speed was suddenly a huge problem and the car would make a strange noise and I could smell a strong odor of gas and slight oil. I have a valve cover gasket leak that I paid 300 bucks to replace but after a week I realized it's still leaking oil so that 300 bucks just went out the window. The sluggish performance and cel went away the next time I drove the car and it ran awesome for over a month till one day while I was on my way home from grabbing some lunch it all of a sudden started happening again. Sluggish performance, smell of gas and slight oil, wouldn't get up to speed.
I brought it to my local vw dealership to have it looked at yesterday figuring that they'd be able to tell me exactly what was going wrong. I got a call early this morning saying that the oil leak in my valve covers are causing my coil pack to short out and foul my plugs and wires and then told me it was going to cost 1,700 bucks with all the parts and labor. I'm not very mechanically inclined when it comes to vehicles so it's not like I can do the work myself but my main question is, how can the oil cause the coil pack to short out seeing that oil is not conductive and some cars actually use oil to cool the packs down. Is that a legitimate diagnosis or is the dealership mechanic Actually right or is he just getting creative trying to squeeze some money out of me.
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I got a 99 f150 with a 4R70W and 311,000 miles on it and last year the od light started flashing while I was going down the interstate so I checked the fluid when i got home and it was beyond burnt so i changed fluid and filter. So a month or so ago it started doing this thing where on take off it will rev up like its in neutral for a couple seconds then reengage and drive normal till i stop and start to take off again. It don't do it every time and it drives/pulls just fine other than that.
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I spoke with a few people here before about my 4r100.. it threw a code a month ago for P0750.. i replaced solenoid and it continued to do it even after clearing codes numerous times.. then all of a sudden it was perfectly fine for over a week, no codes, i ran a few brick hauls with it and ran it for over an hour straight.. i went to fl and upon return i took her for a drive and wouldnt you know, the code has returned.. i did hammer down a little but not from a dig, i just got on it a little playing with a neighbor and his truck and all of a sudden it did its thing slipping and not up shifting then the O/D started flashing again... i cant understand why the code would come back all of a sudden, there has to be a wiring problem correct?
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I have a 02 f250 4x4 7.3l.... I drove it all weekend and no problems. It sat till yesterday I got in it to go to church. It started up and had a little miss was around 60 f. Then the od light started flashing. Not in any code just constant flash. I was parked down in my drive way. It idled fine but acted like it wouldn't take fuel. So looked around and found the hose on the map sensor was broke.
So today I fixed the hose. Checked the oil level and battery connections. Still running weird and flashing od light. I got under the hood and wiggled plugs I unplugged the ice. It revved up then back down and started running smoothly. Got in it and it backed out of the drive way. It ran and drove fine. What I need to know is why??? The ice is a new one from Ford.
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Had a front seal leak on my 2000 F250 V10 with 122000 miles. Since I've towed for years and the tranny had to be pulled I opted to just rebuild the whole tranny. I had problems from the beginning where it wouldn't shift into third and when I took my foot off the gas it would just go out of gear completely and just rev. After I stopped and started over, it would shift fine for the rest of the day.
Finally the O/D stem light started flashing and the mechanic did something to fix it. Since then it has shifted fine but when it went into overdrive the rpm would bump up and kind of slide into overdrive. Left the truck with the mechanic again for two weeks and it's better, sometimes revs and slides into overdrive not every time though.
My problem, besides the overdrive shifting, is it now takes forever to shift in to 4th gear. I have to take my foot off the gas to make it shift into 4th and overdrive won't kick in until 45 MPH. My gas mileage, while bad enough before all this, has now dropped another 2 mpg to around 7.5 to 8. I was thinking about taking it to a Ford dealer for some kind of analysis.
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So I was driving my 2004 6.0 auto on the freeway today when the tow haul light randomly started flashing, nothing felt wrong until I stopped, then when I went to pull away it wouldn't shift down from 5th according to my livewire ts says under the commanded gear gauge. It shifts into 6 and overdrive fine. I turned the truck off, the light went off but as soon as I put it in drive it jumped around from 1-2-5 and back down until it locked in 5 again and the light started flashing again. What this could be?
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I bought this truck with a stock automatic transmission and 260k miles back in October expecting the transmission to be the first thing to go. Recently I had a transmission code, OD OFF light flashing, for the bad speed sensor which i got replaced. Then the OD OFF light started flashing after some hard driving when I would put into neutral or park so I took it back to the mechanic, Hanahan Truck and Auto in Sc. They looked into it and there wasn't any different code in the system but they noticed when you lay into it driving it slips some between 2nd and 3rd gears so that could cause the computer to put in a code.
They said usually a rebuild runs from $2k-2.5k and they also recommended a Jasper reman for roughly $2.8k which comes with a 100k mile 3yr warranty. So I figure replacing the transmission is probably the way to go. Any recommendations for a replacement. I've heard ATS and Sun Coast are decent options that I could build one. I'm looking to stay close to $3k. My truck is a 2000 F250 lariat 4x4 with 268k miles. I'm installing an S&B intake, 4" MBRP exhaust, and DP-Tuner's F6 chip when I get the transmission work done.
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2006 E-350 Dually Ambulance Chassis with the 6.0... Approx 125000 miles.
Recently, the truck started an issue. its an every once in awhile thing but has been doing it more recently. The OD light will start flashing and the vehicle will start to have clunking in the tranny and start shifting rough. ABS kicks in making it hard to stop. Once you turn the truck off and back on, Its fine until it does it again. Im connecting to a scanner tomorrow to see if i get any codes.
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I have a 2006 F350 SRW 4WD 6.0 with 127000 miles on it. A couple of weeks ago it, pulling out of my driveway, it hesitated and tow haul started flashing. I had codes pulled and it showed P1780, P0751, and P2700. After turning off, codes were gone and tow haul off. Ran fine since then every day. Yesterday while going about 50 mph it started acting like it was in neutral (revving up), nothing happened when mashing the accelerator. Coasted to a driveway and truck would not move, only sounded like it was in neutral.
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I have a 2003 Camry LE 4cly. Approx 150k miles. Car has been a good Camry. About 6 months ago it started to shudder when applying brakes. At first I thought rotors, but it seemed speed dependent. When over 40 it happens more often and more strongly. After the car gets below 10 to 20 the shudder ceases. Front pads are in reasonable shape. Rotating tires does not affect the shudder. Has never effected handling of vehicle. Brakes work without fail, just shudder in front end and steering wheel. I tried flushing the system, had not done that previously. Fluid was yellow, but not black. After the flush, the system seemed to shudder less, but still have the intermittent shudder. There are no error code for ABS, and the light is not on and does not come on.
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When my R32 had a little over 2000 miles on it I the brakes started to shudder each time I touched the brake pedal. Driving in the rain one day it was terrible because every mile or so when the brakes did the wiping the steering wheel would just shake. I took it in and they originally said I probably had rust on the brakes. The dealer ended up turning my rotors because they said they were warped pretty bad. After that the car was just fine for the next 1500 miles, then I slowly started to feel the shudder coming back when I brake. I am now at 4700 miles and it is as bad as it was before. I am taking it in for my first oil change Monday and told them to check my brakes again. I hope they do something because I don't want to run in every 2000 miles to have the rotors turned.
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I got a 99 1.8t. Here's the deal, misfiring at idle, flashes battery light. alt and battery was checked and there great. it has a maf code, so I unplug the maf and still get the same misfiring. maf was fine be4 i tried cleaning it, now it throws the code. it had misfiring be4 i clean it also. next problem is it stutters and misses if i go wot in 4 or 5 gear and the batt light flashes it doesn't throw a misfire code. Also if I am idling and i floor it, it stutters and misses at lower rpm rage and then is fine at higher rpm range. i replaced plugs and gapped em right, i did a power balance test and the coils all are firing so is the injectors. I don't got vag but i do got a good obd2 scanner i was looking at the data wen car was off and i seen that if i floor it the tps only reads 77.7% . Also my timing says its 12 degrees and idle fuel pressure is fine i checked with a gauge. Pretty much misfiring with no codes thrown and flashing battery light.
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I have a 99 passat that the oil light will flash and the tach is inop then out of the the blue it stars working. was wondering if any 1 has had this issue. I checked the wiring didn't find no bad wires and i tried another cluster same thing.
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I have a 1999 Passat Sedan, V6 with automatic transmission, 62K miles. The Transmission has started slipping from 1st > 2nd, particularly up hills. Took it to my local mechanic who referred me to the AAMCO next door. They changed out the fluid and filter. No luck; still slipping. They want to do a transmission repair (soft parts) for $1650 with a 12-month warranty. For what it's worth, the TCU was replaced last spring (sunroof drain clog > flood > destroyed TCU and a lot more). Everything was working OK this spring after the repairs.
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I have been reading threads all day. Noone seems to have exactly the same issue so I'm just looking for some clarification. Turn signals dont work but lights work as "parking lamps" and internal climate lights are not illuminating either. Also, my blinkers making the clicking noise but much faster when the turn signal bulbs are not flashing. I had a radio issue but that is resolved. Where do I start? Do I go right for the hazard relay? I read somewhere there was an ignition relay that could potentially be causing all of this?
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1)Reverse lights stay on all the time. Tranny is an automatic. The gearshift indicator in the dash works normally. Is it the tranny electrical switch thats bad?
2)Engine just started overheating. I know for a fact the belt to the water pump is loose. Whats the proper way to tighten up that belt? I know how to take the front off the car...just don't know how to tighten the water pump belt. Its the motor that has the separate water pump outside the block, AEB engine.
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