Passat (B5) :: 1999 1.8t GLS Shut Off While Driving - Electrical Failure
Aug 4, 2010
So the other day i was driving down the road, pulled into the gas station and the car shut off and the dash began flickering rapidly.
I popped the hood and the thing that controls the air fuel mixture- when you step on the peddle it moves(sorry cant think right now lol) well it is moving slightly back and forth rapidly also.
I popped the panel under the steering wheel off because i heard a flickering noise coming from it when the key was turned and it was coming from the fuel pump relay.
My question is- is the fuel pump relay something that would just fail and cause the car to shut off. or is it making the clicking noise an indicator that there is a problem somewhere. I looked up the part and it is only 40 bucks, but I am low on money and cant afford to be fishing around ordering parts trying to diagnose the problem.
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I bought my Treg a on 1/16/05 only 46 days ago and have had now twice electrical failures both at while driving on freeways about 70-75 miles an hour. Every light on my treg went off for a few seconds including the MFI Radio and even the headlights. when everything went back on the xenons did their little wink. Possible 04 problem? Going to take it to my dealership on monday.
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While driving along my Expedition will completely shut down, ignition, all accessories, everything, for a few seconds then come back alive. It happens generally up hills or around right turns.
It is like the main ground strap is loose and losing contact momentarily. I don't know where to look for this. Engine was replaced 1500 miles ago. Battery and all visible connections seem ok.
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I have a 1996 F250 460CI that was running great for years and all of a sudden it shut off for a few seconds when I was on the expressway. It was like turning the ignition key off and turning it back on. It did it several times and eventually just died and would not start. I put a new coil on and it worked fine for about 150 miles and now it started doing the same thing again. The check engine light was on for a few seconds but not all the time so I am not sure if diagnostic equipment will show any error messages. Mileage on my truck is 92k. Does this sound like a distributor pickup issue?
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New ghost in the machine.
Pulled out of the driveway two days ago to go trailer a wrecked car home. Got about half a mile up the road, and my electrical system started flickering. Engine died, dash went nuts, everything is clicking on and off real fast. This went on for a minute or two, then stopped. After a little internal debate, I decided to continue on.
Ran fine for another mile or so. Hitched up the trailer and checked the lights, everything A-OK. Started rolling down the lane and the truck went dark. Engine shut down, no sign of electrical power anywhere. It was as if my batteries had been suddenly abducted by aliens. Truck stayed dark for about 5 - 10 seconds, then like a switch was thrown all the electric came back on. Dropped the trailer and drove back to the house without incident. Not towing a car like this.
Checked the battery connections. Looked really good and tight. Pulled and cleaned them anyways.
Pulled the fuse box out from under the dash and looked for water damage. Absolutely no sign of moisture or corrosion anywhere on the box or anything else under the dash.
Started the truck and turned every electrical item I could think of on. Truck sat and idled for 15 minutes without a hiccup. Voltage at the batteries was normal. I wiggled wires everywhere with no effect.
Decided to quit for the night. Got into the truck to move it to it's parking spot and POOF, all went dark again. Engine died, heater blower, radio, headlights, interior lights, all dark. About 5 seconds later, everything came back online.
No CEL. No other symptoms. She was either running perfectly or had no juice at all.
I drove it last night to the mechanic I use. 7 miles, bumps, potholes, stop and go traffic, no issues.
Just spoke with the mechanic. They can't reproduce the problem. I told him I can't reproduce it on demand either. I asked that they put it up on the rack and check all the ground points.
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Last night while driving I saw the needle at zero and was surprised because I refilled a few days earlier, there was also no warning light to refuel the car. When reached home turned the car off and then on and the needle moved in position.
It happened again this evening and restart cured it ... only for the gauge to fail again while driving. The fuel-to-empty indicator was not showing any distance.
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I am on my third EGT gauge. My mechanic installed it as per "auto meter" specifications. He told me, the only reason he could find that the gauges have been failing is low voltage output. I have an onboard compressor for my airbag suspension and every time I start my vehicle it runs to fill up the air system. The voltage drops to 11.1V. It comes up once all is running and the compressor quits. is there any such thing as surge/brownout protection for these systems?
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I have a audi a4 1.8t engine code atw and for awhile i would have random no starts then about two weeks ago it shut off while i was driving home from school and hasn't started since. it turns over fine but i am getting no spark and im getting the error codes p1517, p1433, and p0321 so far i have changed the crank position sensor, the cam position sensor, and the ecm main power supply relay. Still I am getting no start i cant figure this out...
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I would like to know if my car has a fuel shut off if you drive too fast?
and if yes how can you remove this?
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As of about a week ago I have noticed that while driving once in awhile the dashboard will just shut off for about 2 seconds and go black all dials drop to zero and then it will come back on again but with everything reset to 0. I also now have an airbag fault lit up on the dash that was never there before. The car runs fine and does not shut off or anything when this happens but is unnerving. I scanned the ecu and no codes.
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My cousin was driving his car last weekend and the car shut off on him, after we towed it home i hooked it up and got the following codes:
2 Faults Found:
012555 - Low Pressure Fuel regulation: Fuel Pressure Outside Specification
P310B - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 2
004767 - Low-Pressure Fuel Pressure Regulation: Pressure too High
P129F - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100001
Fault Priority: 2
I cleared the MIL and its off but its still throwing the second code.. What would cause this? failing fuel pump?
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Okay, So this has happened to me about five times now over the past year or so. I will be driving and my car will literally shut off. yesterday, I was driving on the freeway and was just cruising at 75mph when all of a sudden out of no where my car makes a big jolt and then the rpm's go from around 3k to 0. I have had this in the shop for this problem many times and no one can really seem to figure out what is wrong. when my car shuts off while im driving, the oil light comes on, traction control light comes on, as well as the battery light. What's even more weird about this problem is once the car stops, if i try to start it right away it wont fire up... It will just roll over. But. if I wait for a while the car starts and drives normal with all the lights off. This is not only annoying but very dangerous.
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A friend of mine has got a B5 1999 passat, and it has the typical abs module failure. How to get rid of the light since he failed the safety inspection. He doesnt care about working ABS, and the inspection is just visually checking the dashboard. I've tried pulling the fuse, and/or physically disconnecting the ABS module, and neither of those work. Which wires should I jump on the module connector (and if it even is possible to do this)?
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A few weeks ago my '99 Saturn SL (120k miles) started rarely losing electrical in little bursts. Gauges zero, car beeps, but everything is normal. This would happen maybe once every few days during my ~30 minute commute. Last night I was picking up dinner and when I returned to the car it had no juice and wouldn't start (not even the dome light would come on). So I found somebody to give me a jump and when I returned the car started up without jumping and without me having done anything in the interim. So today I check the battery (which is maybe ~3 years old) terminals and everything is tight and corrosive free. What can I do?
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Just got home after a harrowing drive in the dark without dashboard lights, no climate control or turn signals or cruise control. Both the turn signals on the dash remain constantly on after the engine was turned off. Wondering if it might be the fuses but will look at first light. In the meantime...
what might have caused this all of a sudden?
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I have a 1999 chevy s10 2.2 L that just shut down while driving, I have replaced crank shaft sensor, ecm, ignition control module, coil packs and still having issues, she will start now but won't stay running, what else it could be, it has been down for almost 5 months.
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I have a 1999 Honda Accord 4 cylinder w/ manual transmission that will intermittently kill while driving. Obviously its distressing, but its been a couple months in between incidents, so its hard to take it seriously, because the car will operate normally for long periods of time, but when it kills, especially on the freeway, it can be frightening.
Luckily the car will start again - pop it into neutral and turn the key, stick it back in 5th gear, and keep driving. Previously, but not lately, from a cold start the car would start up briefly (1 second or so), then kill, and if then if you crank it again it would start right up. Not sure how it relates to the issue while driving, but it could be relevant.
I have heard it might be the fuel pump going bad slowly. Not sure on this, haven't replaced anything there yet (cost/time)I have heard it could be an electrical relay (can't remember the exact name) but I did replace that, and still having the issue.
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Strange thing happened today while driving down the highway while towing my camper. I was going down the road with the cruise control set at 65 mph and I looked at the dash and I had no tach, speedometer or gauges. The dash was blank. The radio was still playing and I was just coasting to a stop. When I finally pulled to the side of the road, I put the truck in park and turned the key to the off position. Turned the key and it started right up and ran fine for the next 2 hours on my trip. I had been towing for about 3 hours before the truck shut off. Don't want this to happen again as I'm towing back home from FL to CT.
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I have a 1999 VW Passat that has a problem with its cruise control that two dealers have not been able to solve. Most of the time I cannot engage the cruise control. Other times it will work properly for 30 minutes. On a rare occasion, it will work properly for several hours. It does not seem to matter what type of road I am driving on. On the rare occasions when it works properly, it does not seem to matter if I stop the care and shut off the engine.
It appears is is there are times when it stops working that stopping the care and shutting off the engine is useful when I begin driving again. However, there is nothing consistent about when it fails, and when it again functions. The dealers have said little more than the cruise control is not working. One dealer installed a new break pedal sensor which did not resolve the problem.
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Buick LeSabre 2002.. Several months ago, several electric items in my car failed... all at once. For the cig lighter especially, I looked through both fuseboxes (front and back) for any fuse that looked like it might be responsible for that circuit. I was checking the abbreviations on the fusebox diagrams and wasn't able to find a busted fuse.
However, with several things going wrong at once, I wonder if it was some other kind of fuse or relay. I don't have the equipment to check relays, thought I found how to do it on YouTube. What might be causing them all to stop working at once.
Cigarette Lighter
Interior/Cabin Lights
Reverse Lights
Power door locks
Trunk light
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I have a 2007 Chev Tahoe. Description of Problem: Past month engine light came on. Then some days for a short time will go off. When light is on the auto start wont work. Battery has been drained so today I changed the battery and have a total electrical power system failure. Zero power to anything. Last month I put a scanner on it but i didnt save the code. It was related to a "throttle body module" i think. Have been reading about the BCM also so im at a complete loss...
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