Passat (B5) :: 1999 1.8T - No Power But Has No Codes And Makes Boost
May 7, 2011
I'm fighting with my latest purchase, a '99 Passat 1.8T AEB with the Tiptronic trans. I'll just get right into it. The car has been gutless since the first time I drove it, thinking it was the DV, I talked the seller down on price and took the car home. It wasn't the DV... so I checked all the basic things I could to try and find an issue. This included checking for vacuum leaks (only found one, fixed it), fuel pressure (50psi at idle with hose connected and 58psi disconnected), boost (5-7psi with wastegate accuator connected, but only spikes to 10psi between shifts with it disconnected), and compression test (180psi for all cylinders). None of the tests pointed anywhere, but the spark plugs did show signs of a lean mixture (white and chalky).
With the basics out of the way I bought an ebay VAG-COM cable and VCDS-Lite from Ross-Tech. After setting up the VCDS-Lite software I began with a MAF test, which showed a high of 96g/s, lower than the expected 120g/s. I grabbed a different MAF sensor and tried it, but the results were almost identical. Then I looked at throttle angle, this was 86.8 degrees at WOT, which seems to be average for AEB engines. However, at mechanical WOT VCDS-Lite says that it is only at "Part Throttle". I'm thinking this is just an inconsistency with the software, but I don't know. The last thing I checked was fuel trims, but they were slow to respond, only showing 0.0% for most of the drive and eventually changing to 0.8%. From what I've read this seemed normal.
Any other tests I can try? I'm leaning towards the MAF sensor being the culprit, but I swapped it with a used one and saw no change. Maybe both were bad? Can the throttle position sensor cause this? I read an older thread where the angle sensor said WOT but not the position sensor.
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Truck = 2011 F250 150,000 miles, no modifications, stock.
Truck lost power yesterday, no boost, and no codes. When driving on Friday, I started moving from a red light. The truck seemed very sluggish. Then I noticed it downshift going up a small hill that it never downshifts before. I looked, and noticed the turbo gauge at 0, no boost. I pulled over, turned it off, then restarted it, but still no boost, and the truck is very under-powered. I looked over the area, and do not notice any leaks, also no leaks underneath. I hooked up my OBD reader, and no codes., the boost gauge is on zero, and the truck has lost significant power. I no longer hear the turbo spooling.
I have spent the past several hours searching sites and forums (Started with FTE ), and it seems that most believe a restart of the truck has solved it for them. However, this is not the case for me, a restart, even after letting it sit overnight did not resolve the issue.
I did see one reference that replacing a NOX sensor solved their problem. This brings up some interesting truck history. Back in June 2017, my truck threw the following codes, P207F and P20EE.
P207F - Reductant Quality Performance
P20EE - SCR NOx Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
The message said I have 200 miles until reduced power. Since it was a Friday, not much I could do at the time so I let it sit overnight, and then the next morning the message was gone. I plugged in the OBD reader and cleared the only remaining code (P20EE), and its been a very happy truck until yesterday.
So my question, can a bad NOX sensor cause the issue of loss of turbo boost, with no codes? Is there another possible cause?
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Got a P0470 code check engine light on. It's - 12 outside. Having problems with this in the cold? I seen something awhile back about a TSB about ice forming on the sensor on 06-07 engines. It's the second time thus winter it has come on both times it was - degrees out.
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This isn't my truck, but I'm trying to diagnose it for a friend and I haven't seen it. He's scanning it with a high-end Matco scanner so I'm not convinced that the scanner is reading right but here's what I've got:
P0056 (2), P0161, and P0300 (random misfire detected). The first two are "gasser" codes and don't show up in the 6.0 bible code list so I'm wondering if they were added in to some of the later flashes??
The truck has a "new" OEM turbo and won't build over 18 psi of boost but, according to the owner, who is a decent mechanic, it's absolutely clean inside. Looking for about the weird codes it's throwing?
All my years of information on 6.0's was stolen with my laptop last year ....
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My 2000 1.8t, I changed the engine. Since I changed my engine, I have not that power anymore, sometimes I have some boost, and than I just let go....and I just have that feeling that i have regular 1.8 engine not the T anymore. My mechanic doesn't know what it is, he thinks that's normal, but I know how my car was before....like at freeway, when i drive the hill up, there is no power anymore.
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I just purchased a b5 99 1.8t. The tubing from the intake manifold to the dv was cut by accident (long story, dont ask).I replaced the dv and tubing .I want to check if the psi is correct. I dont have a boost gauge.
What are the ways to check it besides a boost gauge? I think the correct psi is around 6-8 ?
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My passat turbo went out a while back and cant figure out why? The Idle is the same as always was, engine is smooth while driving and changing gears, but the boost is very very low but not completely out. All vaccum lines are connected and cant hear the diaphram releasing like it used to abviously cause there's no pressure.
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Here's my problem, I have a B5.5 1.8 5speed and my power steering makes a whining noise when Im turning. I checked the fluid and it's full. A few years ago on a roadtrip from CA to NM, my PS cooler hard pipe had a leak and drained all the fluid. It's was 11pm and still had 30 miles to get home and all I could get was Pennzoil PS fluid from Walgreens. So for the past 3 years I've been using Pennzoil PS fluid. Just recently it started making this noise. Luckily I picked up a 98 AEB parts car for $300 and my question is,
Would a power steering pump from my B5 fit my B5.5??? And, If the problem isn't my pump, would the PS rack fit also??
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Well I am at a loss now. Rebuilt the turbo with a new wheel and kit from Riffraff. I still have no power, no boost and no codes. The new wheel whistles. I can hear it. It sounds way better than the old one. But still no power. I really don't know what to do now.
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Short version is that I just did the EBPV delete with new pedestal and turbo exhaust outlet and put a new turbo middle cartridge in as mine had blown a seal and possibly broken the shaft. Once I got it all put together, I took it for a test drive and it was building 20PSI like it used to but I didn't have the accumulator and turbo mated up fully so I had a leak there.
I corrected that and now don't get any boost until I get to about 2500RPM and then it only builds to about 10PSI. I've double and triple checked all my connections, boots, etc. and everything is tight on the intake, intercooler, up-pipes and collector, exhaust and the spider, I can't see or feel any problems there. I tried disconnecting the MAP sensor and it might be a little better but not even close to normal.
Tried disconnecting the red line from the wastegate and plugging it with no difference. I'm stuck, and frustrated. I do have AE, watching the MGP looks like the MAP sensor is working. I feel like I'm overlooking something simple but I just can't figure out what it is...
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Sudden power loss experienced. CEL (Check Engine Light came on) and Glow Plug Light was flashing. Power loss is severe so really can't drive it anywhere. Turbo Failed at 5500 miles.
Mechanic quote: "Found code P0299 for turbo power under boost. Removed upper engine cover and intake hose. Checked turbo shaft and found play near intake side of turbo. Removed lower engine shield and lower hose to intercooler. Checked for metal. Contacted VW and created VTA. Instructed by VW to replace turbo. Did."
Sounds like service manager abbreviated when entering into the computer. In any case a shame that this car was in the shop for more than a week while the dilly dallied and waited for a turbo to be shipped in.
Some earlier turbo-fail threads from last summer stated dealer told them "bad batch" of turbos was being experienced by VW. Believable, particularly if they're banged out in China? Let's all hope it was a bad batch.
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I have a 1999 passat 1.8t with 197k miles. When I drive if you listen really closely the engine makes a pretty cool sound like a turbo winding. It's a really really low whooooooo on the first and second gear. You cant hear it unless you have the windows down and there's like no other cars. Is this normal? My friend said the turbo might be going bad ?
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I was having an issue with my car not going into boost so I plugged my code reader in and it had 2 codes 1 was p1200 n249 malfunction and the other was diverter valve malfunction so I did the quick easy one and got a new factory diverter valve but it still doesn't go into boost and still reads p1200 n249 what do I need to replace or should I do the n249 bypass it's a bone stock jetta 5 speed.
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There ended up being 6 or 7 codes. Originally the first O2 sensor and wire seemed to go bad, I replaced them and it ran well for a couple days and then started running like ass again...Now there are a few codes, none for the 02 sensor, but for over boost issues...Does this mean my n75J valve is causing the problems? Is it possible that my software is just going bad? ...I bought the car somewhat molested and don't quite know the extent of the parts on it, nor the brands( specifically, the software...).
The current codes being thrown:
P0238 mani pres g31 sig to high
P0234 overboost
P0106mani barometric sensor g31
We replaced the manifold pressure sensor, and am not having the issues but they could and probably will come back after 50 or so miles...Previous code also was P1114 02 sensors and we replaced the front sensor. It may be that the software that is on the car is starting to go..
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This was briefly discussed as part of another thread. It appears that I have a boost leak when I hit roughly 24.5 psi. The leak seems to stay for a few minutes after showing itself, but then I'm able to produce boosts up to 24.5 again. For example, on my 20-mile/30-minute drive to work, I can make this leak "appear" four or five times, maybe more if I try. Does this self-healing leak ring a bell? I haven't done a boost leak test yet, but I'm leaning towards the RTV sealant at the OEM plenums due to the self-healing attribute.
To add a little info to this thread, I recently installed an S&B intake, 4" exhaust, bellowed up-pipes, RR billet wheel, RR CAC intercooler boot kit with new clamps, RDP reinforcing plenum inserts, AIH delete plug, and I removed the wastegate solenoid along with the red and green tubes. I don't have any gauges, but I recently began monitoring the boost using FORScan. Before all of this, I don't think I was producing enough boost to cause this leak, and I had no way to monitor for this leak.
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I disconnected the red wastegate hose in order to address a low boost high EGT issue. This seemed to fix the boost / EGT issue for the most part, but now I get this P1249 code. The first time I got it I saw boost at about 20 PSI. I figured I would try to keep the boost below 20 in an attempt to prevent the code.
I managed to capture some log info when throwing the code. The highest boost reading I saw was 19.58. Pretty close to twenty but I question if I even should be getting this code at this level of boost?
Here's a chart with the boost info. Yes I still have a very bouncy EBP and hope to track that down at some point as well....
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I have a 2006 f350 4x4 dually 6.0. The other morning when leaving for work I hard a loud air noise, like a jet. It only happens when the motor is trying to create boost. I have NO boost. No smoke. If I push the fuel pedal past 1/4, nothing. Its like its stuck and no more power at all. I have changed the boot from the turbo to the intercooler pipe. (looked like it had cracks in it).
Checked the cold pipe, no cracks seen. Check the exhaust clamps, into the turbo, they are tight. The turbo is seeping oil around the seal. I took the inlet, fresh air, pipe off. Check the turbo spool for looseness, fins, spun the wheel, ran the engine and watch to wheel. Seen no issues. Where to go now?? No coolant leaks, no oil leaks.
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Bought the x in feb, put in the billeted wheel, modified the turbo pedestal, put in dorman uppies, put my boost leak detector on it and had no leaks then. Also put on the walker btm and gauges at that point. Took my chip to a local to get tunes. I was pleased enough with the power, and can hit 24 psi. However, it smokes like a freight train if I give it much pedal. I don't drive it a ton, but in the last week I did a 400 mile trip to pick up a trailer, then 800 miles on vacation in Colorado. The fender flare by the exhaust is now black.
It has to be pulling a trailer or going up a decent hill while cruising at 70 to show any boost at all on the gauge. If I give it gas, it belches out the smoke, unless I get on it and get the boost to 10 or more. Most of the time while cruising along I don't need to speed up that much so it just smokes and doesn't build more than 2 psi boost.
My f350 by comparison usually runs 4-6 psi boost running down the road at 65, and slight movements of the accelerator can affect that number immediately.
I don't have my leak detector with me so I can't verify that I have no leaks right now, but I can still hit 24 psi... Last night I used oven cleaner and got the whole area around the turbo pretty clean. Drove it 60 miles today, and don't see any soot around anything, maybe it's to soon to tell? Is there anything else I should check, or is it as simple as getting new tunes?
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I bought a ts 6 position from kt performance with PHP canned tunes pretty much and on the 140 tune I get no black smoke under throttle, now I would imagine this is normal with stock injectors because im sure the turbo can keep up somewhat. But the problem is I only make 16 psi max so shouldn't I be dumping black smoke? I know the low boost is because I have a hole in the intercooler pipe next to the power steering pump, but do I have low fuel pressure? I would imagine with only 16psi all the fuel will not be burnt. Hpop can hit 2800 and hold 2500. But ipr hit 80% under full throttle at 3k rpm and had trouble shifting but other than that never sees over 45%. I want to know whats going on with the fuel not boost, just to clear things up. And I don't really feel any power loss im stock. 99 f350 7.3 4x4 long bed cc
And just to be clear I am NOT trying to Roll Coal but a nice smoke trail when flooring it past people who cut you off would be nice
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I believe I am having spooling issues with my 2000 f250 7.3 automatic truck. I now am running a 67mm billet compressor wheel with a 1.00ar turbine housing and high flow outlet so basically a thrust bearing 38r . I'm running oem sticks and PHP tunes on my hydra. On the 140 tune egts top out at 1200* uphill. So egts are not a problem. Boost tops out at 29-30 psi and 1-3 down the interstate. I see a lot of trucks that can hit 20+ psi in second by just squashing the skinny petal and I could also do this with my oem turbo. Mine takes awhile to get psi up like I said it will hit 30 if I'm petal to the carpet for a few and get going but I feel like it's not spooling as quickly as it "should ".
I completely built this turbo with new parts nothing was reused down to the heat shield behind the turbine wheel inside the turbine housing. I used all American And Canadian built parts . 360 thrust and a banks 1.00 turbine housing. When I bought the turbine shaft and compressor wheel it stated that they where pre balanced and I could clearly see the balancing marks on both but the shaft and compressor wheel are from two different manufacturers so there was no way to be sure that everything would align and be balanced. Basically my question is do you think it would to be wise to have the assembly balanced? Could this be the reason the turbo doesn't spool as fast as my oem gtp38 did . I've been running the turbo for four months now .
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Removed the battery to install a boost gauge and came back to a christmas tree cluster. Not just the usual steering/EPC either. I can post the expanded scan but you can see a lot of things are affected, still drives fine however. Airbag fault and parking brake fault appear on MFD as well.
Thursday,07,May,2015,15:43:55:18277
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator
VCDS Version: 14.10.2.0 (x64)
Data version: 20150311
[Code] ...
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