Passat (B5) :: 1999 1.8T - No Power After Dead Battery
Jan 7, 2010
Three weeks ago I left my lights on while at work. After I jumped it, everything was running terribly. I had absolutely no power and it felt like the engine was going to fall out at any time. I got it home and had a roommate look at it. After not seeing anything wrong, I tried starting it again and everything ran perfectly fine. I'm assuming it was something with the computer and it just needed reprogrammed.
So last week a friend of mine drove the car and also left the lights on. When we went to jump it, it would start for 2-3 seconds then stall, even with a little gas. After a few attempts, it stopped starting. Now, it'll turn but nothing else. We pulled the battery and put it on a charger. The battery held 12.6V and is only 6 months old. Put it back in and got the same result.
The fuel pump is turning on and I've checked every fuse. It is around 20 degrees out but I had a full tank so I don't believe it to be a frozen fuel line. It seems like an electrical problem since there were no mechanical problems before the dead battery. The only complaint I had was a lack of power sometimes, but I don't think that would have a great deal with this.
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On a 1999 Excursion with a v10. I've got a strange problem. When the truck is left overnight, the battery is dead. Doing some testing, the is a serious draw through the dome light circuit that controls the Gem and the Tail Lights. If I pull that fuse each night, then the battery is fine. But I can't leave that fuse out, as the shifter interlock switch is disabled by this fuse. All the tail lights seem to work fine.
Dome lights do not come on. I've tested the bulbs. They're good. There is now power it seems to the dome light sockets. The door ajar light works, so I'm guessing all the switches are good.
I also have no power windows working. There is no 12v to the switch. But I heard about the Gem module as well. So I'm not sure if the Gem controls if there should be 12v to the switch all the time.
I pulled out the Gem. It looks good. No sign of corrosion or water.
Any thoughts on what to look for or how to troubleshoot this? Is there a way to test a Gem? Would a bad Gem cause the battery draw down?
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If the battery in my B6 Passat is dead, how do I open the trunk?
Other than the sort-of obvious method of crawling through the cabin and pulling the glow-in-the-dark "oh no some gangster has locked me in the trunk" tab. I ask because I recently purchased a portable jump starter and question if the trunk is the best place for it to live.
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I replaced my dead battery today. Once the new battery was in everything worked just fine except for the radio. The radio is not in safe mode it is completely dead. The radio worked after my last jump. I had turned it off before replacing the battery. Now it will not turn on and the security light does not blink.
I have checked the fuse and it looks good. I have removed the fuse for a while and put it back in with no luck. Is there a trick to getting it to come back on?
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my battery went dead on B6 all 4 doors and trunk are locked.
How do i get in without a key?
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So my sisters Passats battery died this weekend. She had jumper cables, but they were buried in the trunk amongst all her other crap in there. We ended up folding the back seats and crawling into the trunk to release it using the trap lever, but it was a PITA.
Is there no keyhole, or is it hidden like the door key holes? The trunk release button on the driver door is electrical switch, so that did not work either.
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How to get into my car... keyless entry on all doors and trunk.... Do I have to call a lock smith to get into the vehicle...
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I have a 2003 passat wagon v6 4 motion.
Last Thursday the battery was dead. I could jump the car and it was fine. Drove for 20 minutes to work and 10 hours later it was more dead than in the morning. I bought a new $150 battery, the heavy duty one, that Thursday. Friday everything was fine, 60 + miles. then Sunday for another 30 miles, no issues. This morning it almost didn't start, then later going home I needed to jump it again.
There is nothing plugged into any of the 12v power adapters. No Lights left on. Seems like it's not charging? So I was thinking alternator. Though reading on here seems Like i'd get some check engine lights/codes about the alternator??
What can I do to check if the alternator is charging? I have a meter and am good with electronics, but do not know that much about cars... Looks like the alternator is burried under the front left og the engine as you are looking at it standing in front??
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I have a Canadian spec TDI highline trim with automatic headlights. I generally do not lock it when I park in my garage at home. Last night I parked it and came out this morning to see that the running lights, but not the headlights, were on. The battery was basically dead and I had to boost it to get going.
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What the problem is with my 94 Saturn Sl2? It seems to loose power going up hill. Also I have put in a new alternator and battery, because the battery would go dead after driving for a while. ABS light remains on as well. Also have pinging noise coming from below the emergency brake area, after I have driven it for a little while. Even if it sits idling at times, it will drag down the battery or something, because it will kill and go dead. Could there be a short somewhere?
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I drove my 2006 Passat 2.0T at night a few days ago. And I forgot to shut off the light. It came out that my battery was drained completely. After doing a jump start under my friend's assistance, I was able to run it again. But my radio remains dead, meaning it won't turn on by all means.
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My battery was dead. Jumped the battery but hooked up cables wrong. Put car on battery charger.
Car has power now. Turns over but does not start. Seems like no power to engine. Engine light is on.
Is there a fuse that needs to be fixed?
2007 Camry LE with 4 cyl.
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The dealershhip told me my 12volt battery may be dead. the symptoms are the car has now power and the key fobs do not work. I tried jump starting last night. The first time I hooked up jumper cables up my alarm started going off. I lost connection and reconnected and only the orange light came on on the power button, and check engine light came on and green light came on on park button.
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If this has been posted before feel free to remove. I searched everywhere and didn't see exactly what I experienced with our Prius when the 12v battery was in it's final stages of death so I wanted to share.
Below issues all occurred within a one week time period 3-7-16 to 3-14-16. 2005 Prius with 145k miles, replaced traction battery on 7-30-15 / 127k miles.
First occurrence - happened a few seconds after starting and driving the vehicle. The ABS light came on and the power steering faded out and then came back, just briefly, and the car did not die. Turned the car off and back on again and all was well.
I performed the 12v battery test by entering maintenance mode. (hold the display button and turn the lights on/off three times, vehicle signal check, battery check) the battery was reading 11.9volts with the car off, I drove the car and it was charging at around 14.7volts and then was reading 12.2 with the car off after driving it. Which at the time seemed a little weak but nothing that was a red flag. I've read that you're supposed to replace the 12 volt battery every 4 years but I swear the one I removed looked stock.
Second time - again happened just a few seconds after starting the car and driving. ABS light came on, red triangle of death light, brake light, power steering was gone, and the power steering light came on, the car did not die. Restart fixed the issues again.
Third time - Happened about 30 minutes in to the trip while the wife was driving on the interstate around 75mph, wipers were on due to rain but visibly lost power, radio came on and off, all the lights on the dash (warning lights included) flickered on and off, power steering was gone, car died completely and would not restart. Tow driver had to boost the battery long enough to put the car in neutral so we could load it on to the tow truck. When we got the car home the battery was completely dead again.
I ordered an Optima Battery 8171-767 (DS46B24R) YellowTop Prius Battery from Amazon which appears to be a direct replacement, and simple to install. I drove the car for a few miles, returned to the house, performed battery test again via maintenance mode and the battery was charging at 14.0 and reading 12.5 when off. I can't be certain but I think the battery check feature may be displaying false information if the battery has dead cells and the car is trying to charge the battery? I took the old battery to Advanced Auto Parts and had them run a diagnostic check and the tester stated that the battery had dead cells and needed to be replaced. I gave them the old battery even though I didn't buy the new one from them and got a 10.00 store credit, unexpected and nice.
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I think I have a battery issue but wanted to ask the group in case someone ran into this before.
Went to start my truck this morning and did the normal dead battery sound but doesn't have enough power to turn the engine. I can see the engine start to turn but can't get over compression.
So I bought a new Interstate battery from Costco, installed it, and same problem. Hooked up a charger and it showed 25%. Let it charge for 4 hours, now it's at 50% and still won't turn over.
I'm going to wait over night and let it charge, but I wanted to ask the group if there is any known problems (Beyond battery) that would do this.
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Like the title says, if it sits over night the battery will be about dead. The cables were replaced 6 months ago and are in good shape. I could not find and bad spots on the wires I can get to. One odd thing to note, with the key out of the switch I opened the passenger door to check the glove box light and the truck started chiming like I had opened the drivers door with the key still in the switch. Would that indicate maybe the key switch could be the issue?
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I have not started my truck for some time (about 3 months) and the battery went dead. I recharged the battery and started her up. I then drove my truck about 5 miles and noticed that the water temp gauge was pegged to overheat...unbelievable! So of course I stopped the truck at the the nearest spot that had a water hose. The water was about 2-3 liters low as I could tell. This should not have caused the engine to overheat though. So what happened here. The engine ran ok back home but now I do not know what to do. Is it an electrical issue where the cooling system has a valve that is signaled electronically to open for the water to flow thru the system??
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My 1999 f-250 7.3 has been sitting for months, and I went to start it and both batteries are dead. Replaced both batteries and at first the alarm went off like normal. Turned the alarm off, hit the unlock button and it beeped like normal. Got in and stuck the key in the ignition and tried to turn it over. Completely dead. Now I cant even get the alarm to go off, showing no signs that its even getting any power. And all I'm hearing is a low clicking noise in the cab.
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Did the blue spring upgrade today. The driver side battery was disconnected for 2 hours. After finishing the upgrade I reconnected the battery. When I touched the positive cable to the battery I heard a fuse blow. Now I have no lights, chimes, instruments, gauges, NOTHING, everything is dead. Cannot find any fuse blown. Is there a master fuse?
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My wife was driving this morning and the car stalled when she was accelerating from a stop light. Battery light came on and she could not restart the car no power. When I got there she was able to start the car again. I drove 10 feet when the car stalled again. Noticed that the EPC came on smelled rotten eggs or sulfur from the exhaust.
Used jump cables and car started, battery light gone but EPC light came on and stays on, no blinking. I drove back home about 13 miles and no problem. Took battery to test and did not hold charge, I will replace battery. Car was at the dealer for two weeks to get the CAM, cam follower and high p fuel pump replace. Is just a battery issue or another issue for the EPC light?
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I bought a 2005 F350 in January of 2012. At the time of purchase, I noticed that the truck seemed slow to turn over. I talked the dealer into installing 2 new 750 CCA Ford batteries at the time of sale.
I have put less than 7,000 miles on the truck since the day I bought it. In August of 2012, I went to start the truck and the batteries were completely dead. I charged them, started the truck, and the next day the truck was dead again.
I took the batteries out, and took them to the dealer. They replaced both of them under warranty. They said that after they charged them, each tested at less than 85 CCA.
In July of 2013, the same thing happened. I used the truck one day, and then the next day the batteries were completely dead. I had them tested at the dealer, and the passenger side battery failed the test. The driver's side passed. They replaced the passenger side under warranty, again. This time, they also cleaned all battery / ground connections and tested the charging system. Everything passed.
Last week, I went to start the truck. Same thing again. Took the truck to the dealer, and both batteries, after charging, failed the test. They replaced both batteries under warranty.This time, on each battery, the dealer had written with yellow paint pen on the batteries AND on the radiator shroud "BATTERY NOT UNDER WARRANTY."
I asked the dealer about this, and they said that since they have replaced 5 batteries in the truck, and since it has 152,000 miles on it, the warranty is no longer valid. I argued that since they have checked the truck thoroughly, and found no issues with the charging system, they can't void the warranty like that.
So, what is the reason why the batteries would fail like that, and that frequently?
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