Passat (B5) :: 1998 Turning Over But Won't Start
Jan 16, 2011
My grandmothers car was running when she parked it. She went to start it the next morning and it was turning over, would not start. I'm towing it today to see what's up with it. Any common issues?
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A few days ago the head lights and all inside lights would flicker and go off for a second or two while I was driving at highway speed. Thee flickering stopped when I slowed down. Yesterday the car would not start at all. The motor is turning over but not catching. Also only the radio work but not the sound system. I put in a new hi-output alternator but the car still will not start. The car has 155,000 miles and generally runs well. How to repair this?
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I have a 1998 Honda Accord that intermittently won't start. When the issue occurs the dashboard lights, radio, etc all work just fine, but the engine won't turn over (no clicking, no noise at all). It's standard vehicle, but I definitely have my foot all the way to the floor to depress the clutch safety switch. The issue only seems to occur when the car is warm (i.e. it never happens on the first start in the morning), although it's been known to happen even after 2hrs of cooling down. The issue used to only occur 1 out of 100 starts, but now it's getting closer to 1 out of 4 times. I'm able to get the car going by jump starting it, but that's getting old.
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I have '98 VW JETTA Wolfsburg and EVERY time after hard rain (cold OR warm weather), the next day my car is unable to start without giving it gas while turning the key. It only starts after a few tries AND it "bucks" when I give it a bit of the gas pedal early on (within 5-10 minutes) into the drive. After that time, it drives great like always. Just had the fuel system "cleaned" at a local oil change conglomerate, which yielded tons of white smoke out of the tailpipe.
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I just bought a used 1998 VW Passat and everything seemed to be working fine until today. I drove the car up the road to get some food, went inside and not even 30 minutes later came back out to get in my car to go to work and the car wouldn't start. I turn the key and push in the clutch like normal and nothing happens except for the lights inside on the dash come on, but the engine doesn't begin to turn over or anything. The emergency flashers in the dash begin to flash automatically, don't know if that has anything to do with it.
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I've been fighting several problems with this car (1998 1.8t aeb 5 speed manual) I replaced the icm and coil packs just recently to fix an ignition problem. At least i thought the problem was fixed. Car was running good but still had an occasional loss of power and bucking.
Today I installed a new fuel filter and went for a drive to see if that fixed the problem. I get about a mile from my house and the car died at a stop sign. I tried several times to start it back up and nothing. I pushed it off to the side and left it there for the night, I'll go back in the morning to try to trouble shoot it.
Symptoms: I noticed that when I turned the key to the on position, the fuel pump relay would click and doesn't stop unless i turn the ignition off. The throttle body is also actuating at the same time, idle stabilizer? But its doing this with the engine off and key in on position. Also there is fuel pressure at the rail.
What would cause this? My only thought would be a failed ecu or possibly fuel pump relay (though I don't see how that would effect the throttle body).
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I haven't been able to get my 98/b5 started for 2 days now. Heres what I've noticed, key fob not working (changed batteries) put key in ignition and the alarm goes off. I pulled the CCM and it is dry as a bone. Even the carpet is dry. I've read about broken or corroded wires, but I can't seem to find any. Something is causing the alarm to imobilize the car.
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I'm having problems with starting my car when the engine is hot. Cold engine starts normally. But when the engine is hot and when I turn the engine off and return after few hours- it wouldn't start or it's very hard to start. Starter keeps turning but the engine revolutions are very low and the engine wont start. When I give it some gas it starts and the engine runs normally. I have already changed the coolant temperature sensor and one of the coils- no change. And the coolant seems to be wanishing too, but it happens very slowly. (There are no signs of leakage anywhere.) Maybe it's something to do with it?
The car is 2001 year VW Passat 2.3 V5 125kw (azx).
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My 98' 1.8t AEB was having a bad valve tick so i took the valve cover off and noticed the top camshaft had a lobe eaten away pretty bad and it looks like the bearing next to it was spinning I KNOW that its from a lack of lubrication so that means its my oil pump? there was absolutely no sludge or swarf that i could see.
what made me take the valve cover off was a small oil leak and i thought it was the gasket, but my PCV valve slipped out of its sleeve so thats where the oil came from.
also, every time i started my car the oil would come on right away, beep three times, and blink until i shut the car off.
So, i guess i am wondering, do i have deeper problems here or could i replace the cams, bearings and oil pump?
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I drove my 1998 VW passat to work last week, a day after changing spark plugs, fuel and oil filter, and engine oil. After work, the car refused to spark. Had to leave it overnight. Till today, the vehicle has refused to spark even though my electricians keep telling everything seems to be ok. The latest I was told was that the engine has lost pressure. What does that mean and what is the possible remedy?
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1998 Passat 1.8T Sedan, Manual, 118k miles, new head at ~ 87k due to broken timing belt. (Changed oil approximately 1.5-2k miles ago, no loss of oil evident). No noticeable loss of power. No MIL and no DTCs in storage.
But there does seem to be a bit of exhaust (puff....puff.....puff...) that seems to be coming from under the turbo side of the engine, but it is hard to tell.
Recently - over the last couple of weeks - noticed at start-up in morning, significant amounts of blue smoke from exhaust - eventually subsides to nothing after a couple of minutes. BUT, it only seems to appear when the car is angled with its nose slightly up in the driveway and not with its nose down. Lack of it occurring with its nose down was only tried twice; I may need to check it again.
After reading many posts, I thought it might be:
1) Oil overfill at last change - I noticed that my oil was less than 1/16" above the top bend. I doubted that would be the problem, but I siphoned off the small bit and it is within or just below the bend now (hard to read). It might be the oil since I used the Valvoline full synthetic MaxLife that is VW approved for the first time, but I find that hard to believe since I have been using synthetic for a couple of years now.
2) Oil getting into the combustion chamber via oil in the turbo system. Checked the low spot in the hose just before the throttle body. Seemed virtually dry; that's not the problem.
3) I guess it could still be oil gathering some place due to the failure of the turbo, but power seems quite normal.
4) Problem potentially with the PCV (actually called the breather and bleeder valves) and/or vacuum system being plugged up. After reading all of the posts regarding that I am starting to think (HOPE) that is it and not the turbo. While I do understand that flapper valves that are stuck would create greater pressure which could result in oil being forced into the chamber past the valve seats, I am not sure why the angle of the car while parked would matter since the higher pressure would only be occurring while driving; and the blue smoke goes away after driving and doesn't appear until next morning. But perhaps I am missing something.
Particularly which valves I should check/clean if I am seeing this smoking exhaust at start-up, but only when the car is parked with the nose up?
5) Sticky valves at the back-side (cabin-side of the engine)?
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I have a 1998 Honda Civic with 153,000 miles. Whenever I come to a stop my car just turns off, before it turns off the check engine light will flickr and the right passenger door makes weird noises. When it turns off I put the car in park and it turns back on perfectly. When it does turn off the battery light and oil light comes on and stays on. This morning it happened again and the car wouldn't start up for 10 minutes I need to know what's wrong before it gets worse. I already got a tune up on it. What could be wrong?
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At times when going to start our 1998 Caddy you can turn the key and ..... nothing happens, no clicking ... nothing. Everything else works but it is like you are not even turning the key. Is there a weak spot on these cars?
I am familiar with solenoid/starter issues but this seems a bit different for some reason.
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1998 Toyota Avalon... I know the car has factory fog lights and when I replaced the switch to accommodate fog lights they won't turn on but the bulbs are new and I am pretty sure the wiring is factory. What should I check for and what is the relay I should be using? Also any wiring diagrams available for the fog lamps or where I can access them?
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Often as I slow down and start turning a corner, mostly to the right, my 1998 Lincoln Town Car stalls. I have to pull off to the side of the road, put it in park and then restart it, which it does every time.
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I have a 98 camaro z28 and im having some problems with my rear end. I am positive its a limited slip. Ive removed the cover from differential and know what a lsd looks like. My problem is when i turn and hit the gas only 1 tire spins. But if im going straight and hit the gas both tires spins. When i say spin i mean break loose. I removed the cover tonight and took a look. No metal shavings at all. It all looks in good conditon. It has a 390 gear in it. Owner before me put it in. I removed the calipers and the axels have a little play in them. About a quarter inch play going in and out. Was wondering if this was normal. Also while it was jacked up i could hold one wheel while spinning the other. And if i play with it i can make the back left tire spin by its self also not making the ring gear move. Is it normal for a wheel to spin and the ring gear not move? I have a lot of questions about differentials. But mainly why am i only getting one tire to spin when turning?
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I have a 1998 Plymouth Neon that will start after it has cooled completely, and be fine through out the day, but when I get home from school and I start it again, it makes a strange screeching noise, and after turning off the engine and trying to restart the car, the vehicle will not start again, but all of the lights work, the battery is fine, the alternator is okay, the starter is a brand new OEM part, new ignition coil, new spark plugs, new safety neutral switch, new speed sensor, new battery cables, new camshaft position sensor, the only extra thing it does have is fog lights that were not put in by the dealership, this was done when my uncle still owned this car back in 1999. The only other problem that it has is an Error code of P1899 (Safety/Neutral Switch Stuck) and at times when turning the steering wheel, it will make a screeching noise halfway turned until you let go a bit, and then it is able to completely be turned either way, and one last thing is that the speedometer was a bit erratic one time, while I was driving home on the freeway.
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It's to a 1998 Lincoln Mark VIII. I love the thing and try to keep it running. Anyhow, I hooked a borrowed computer to it and it said that it was not reading the sensor. Yes, I checked all of the fuses. I also played hell getting a new (well, used) Anti-Lock Brake Sensor. Discontinued Motorcraft Part # BRAB81. No change in the problem.
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'98 Subaru Legacy L, Automatic Tran., 2.2 L, ~140,000 mi. (a youngster)
My issue is with intermittent/delayed starting. What happens is that when I turn the key, the starter solenoid will click once. Eventually after several tries of turning the switch, it starts, usually with some hesitance. When I try to start, I don't hear anything laboring like the starter Bendix grinding against the flywheel, just click and nothing. I did have the CEL come on once for like 40 minutes and then go out. Once started, however, the car tends to run well and once warm starting is still hesitant, but is quicker. Did conk out on me once at an intersection, was able to restart. Luckily I can walk to school, so I have been keeping it off the road.
As far as troubleshooting goes, the car has the same difficulty starting in neutral as well as park. Within the past year I have replaced the alternator (died), timing belt (routine maint.) as well as the battery (bad). I have also reseated all the ground wires and coated them with dielectric grease. A few months ago, I took the starter out and had it bench tested as good at a "popular auto parts store" in my region - it tested good (starter readily turned over and the Bendix deployed and retracted). Funny thing, when I pulled the starter and replaced it after being checked, the car started flawlessly for a month or so, so I chocked it up to a bad connection. Guess not.
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When I turn left a "clicking" noise appears, it's rhythmic and I figured it was the CV joint at the drivers side going bad. Bought a new one and installed it. Clicking seemed to get away for maybe 5-7 days. Then it occurred again. Because the package in which the cv joint arrived was very roughed up I thought maybe it took damage during delivery and bought a new one. Installed and guess what? Took a drive after that, NOTHING and now it's clicking again. It's so loud you can hear it when you drive behind my truck and I'm turning. Doesn't seem to make a difference if I brake or not.
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I got a 98 f150 with a 2 year old starter in it. When I go to start the truck I turn the key and it makes a horrible metal crunching sound. If I quick stop, then turn it again, it'll start.
I saw another thread here with 'occasional grinding noise' but this just started, and happens every time I turn the key. Is it time for a new starter or should I look towards the fly wheel or something else???
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