Passat (B5) :: 1998 VW Engine Won't Start
Feb 21, 2007
I just bought a used 1998 VW Passat and everything seemed to be working fine until today. I drove the car up the road to get some food, went inside and not even 30 minutes later came back out to get in my car to go to work and the car wouldn't start. I turn the key and push in the clutch like normal and nothing happens except for the lights inside on the dash come on, but the engine doesn't begin to turn over or anything. The emergency flashers in the dash begin to flash automatically, don't know if that has anything to do with it.
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I drove my 1998 VW passat to work last week, a day after changing spark plugs, fuel and oil filter, and engine oil. After work, the car refused to spark. Had to leave it overnight. Till today, the vehicle has refused to spark even though my electricians keep telling everything seems to be ok. The latest I was told was that the engine has lost pressure. What does that mean and what is the possible remedy?
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My grandmothers car was running when she parked it. She went to start it the next morning and it was turning over, would not start. I'm towing it today to see what's up with it. Any common issues?
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I've been fighting several problems with this car (1998 1.8t aeb 5 speed manual) I replaced the icm and coil packs just recently to fix an ignition problem. At least i thought the problem was fixed. Car was running good but still had an occasional loss of power and bucking.
Today I installed a new fuel filter and went for a drive to see if that fixed the problem. I get about a mile from my house and the car died at a stop sign. I tried several times to start it back up and nothing. I pushed it off to the side and left it there for the night, I'll go back in the morning to try to trouble shoot it.
Symptoms: I noticed that when I turned the key to the on position, the fuel pump relay would click and doesn't stop unless i turn the ignition off. The throttle body is also actuating at the same time, idle stabilizer? But its doing this with the engine off and key in on position. Also there is fuel pressure at the rail.
What would cause this? My only thought would be a failed ecu or possibly fuel pump relay (though I don't see how that would effect the throttle body).
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I haven't been able to get my 98/b5 started for 2 days now. Heres what I've noticed, key fob not working (changed batteries) put key in ignition and the alarm goes off. I pulled the CCM and it is dry as a bone. Even the carpet is dry. I've read about broken or corroded wires, but I can't seem to find any. Something is causing the alarm to imobilize the car.
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My 98' 1.8t AEB was having a bad valve tick so i took the valve cover off and noticed the top camshaft had a lobe eaten away pretty bad and it looks like the bearing next to it was spinning I KNOW that its from a lack of lubrication so that means its my oil pump? there was absolutely no sludge or swarf that i could see.
what made me take the valve cover off was a small oil leak and i thought it was the gasket, but my PCV valve slipped out of its sleeve so thats where the oil came from.
also, every time i started my car the oil would come on right away, beep three times, and blink until i shut the car off.
So, i guess i am wondering, do i have deeper problems here or could i replace the cams, bearings and oil pump?
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I'm trying to find out what the check engine code PO455 Evap Emission Control System Leak (Large) means exactly.
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I have been trying to fix a coolant leak at the rear of engine (1998 1.8T AEB); the flange (2x 10mm hex bolts) of the black metal pipe that runs from the back of then engine on top to the front.
Tried adding silicone RTV, leak. Cleaned and tried black RTV, leak; and now O ring is cut.
The pipe has about 32.5mm (= ca. size of O ring ID)
The hole/flange has about 37.5mm (= ca. size of O ring OD)
I need to find a new O ring. Looking for
- the correct dimensions?
- Official name?
- Part number?
- Source?
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1998 Passat 1.8T Sedan, Manual, 118k miles, new head at ~ 87k due to broken timing belt. (Changed oil approximately 1.5-2k miles ago, no loss of oil evident). No noticeable loss of power. No MIL and no DTCs in storage.
But there does seem to be a bit of exhaust (puff....puff.....puff...) that seems to be coming from under the turbo side of the engine, but it is hard to tell.
Recently - over the last couple of weeks - noticed at start-up in morning, significant amounts of blue smoke from exhaust - eventually subsides to nothing after a couple of minutes. BUT, it only seems to appear when the car is angled with its nose slightly up in the driveway and not with its nose down. Lack of it occurring with its nose down was only tried twice; I may need to check it again.
After reading many posts, I thought it might be:
1) Oil overfill at last change - I noticed that my oil was less than 1/16" above the top bend. I doubted that would be the problem, but I siphoned off the small bit and it is within or just below the bend now (hard to read). It might be the oil since I used the Valvoline full synthetic MaxLife that is VW approved for the first time, but I find that hard to believe since I have been using synthetic for a couple of years now.
2) Oil getting into the combustion chamber via oil in the turbo system. Checked the low spot in the hose just before the throttle body. Seemed virtually dry; that's not the problem.
3) I guess it could still be oil gathering some place due to the failure of the turbo, but power seems quite normal.
4) Problem potentially with the PCV (actually called the breather and bleeder valves) and/or vacuum system being plugged up. After reading all of the posts regarding that I am starting to think (HOPE) that is it and not the turbo. While I do understand that flapper valves that are stuck would create greater pressure which could result in oil being forced into the chamber past the valve seats, I am not sure why the angle of the car while parked would matter since the higher pressure would only be occurring while driving; and the blue smoke goes away after driving and doesn't appear until next morning. But perhaps I am missing something.
Particularly which valves I should check/clean if I am seeing this smoking exhaust at start-up, but only when the car is parked with the nose up?
5) Sticky valves at the back-side (cabin-side of the engine)?
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Been having this problem since this past Easter when our mechanic installed new valve cover gaskets.
When the van is hot (normal operating temperature) and you turn it off just for a minute, like to get gas, and try and restart it acts like it’s not getting enough gas. It will cough and sputter and balk. It will finally start though and after 30 second all will calm down and it will run fine.
One big problem is, is that is intermittent – meaning it won’t mess up for the mechanic and putting it on the computer shows nothing wrong.
One mechanic said it was a cracked distributor. Replaced that for $400. and same problem. I’ve also cleaned the Mas Air Flow sensor and changed the fuel filter.
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Engine cranks but will not start, it kicks back after cranking over for a couple of times i have replaced the crank sensor it has done this once before it kicked back hard enough to knock a tooth off of the flywheel after replacing flywheel and starter it started fine for three months then it kicked back hard enough to break a starter mounting bolt. i replaced bolt had starter checked and replaced again?
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Lets start at the beginning. About two weeks ago my girlfriend got a check engine light and the car started missing( 98 Passat 1.8T, 5 speed). Checked obvious things like fuel delivery-good. Pulled coil packs and had no spark on #2 cyl. Investigated more and found one of the pins on the ign. control module was shorted. Felt pretty sure that was the problem since everything else checked out. Ordered a Huco installed it and that fixed the problem except the car seemed slow reprogramming to the new part. I disconnected the battery to clear the memory and that seemed to do the trick.
About 2 weeks later my GF is coming home and fortunately it died in front of the apartment. Checked everything again. Getting fuel, no wires shorted on ign. or fuel harness plus they all get power just no signal when checking with an LED tester. Ign. module was good also. Checked speed sensor for resistance per the book it was good. Tried a new Camshaft Pos. Sensor hoping that was the problem, no luck. I believe it must be the computer. I'm trying to get one from a salvage yard. I don't know if the old computer can be reprogrammed or not. Also was wondering if the dealer(where I really do not want to go) can test the computer somehow and tell me if it is bad or not(don't know if I would trust them anyway), just wanted to include that option.
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My engine is very slow to warm up when the temp is below 30 degrees. Engine will reach about 170 after about 5 miles. What should I check first? Is it hard to change the thermostat or is there something else that controls the engine temp?
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My Sierra has the 5.7 Vortec engine with 230,000 miles. Ever since I bought the truck at 208k I've been having a random No-Start condition... It can be cold, warm, or not ran for weeks. I've replaced the Fuel pump (just the pump, not the sender too), MAP sensor, ICM, TPS, and Camshaft position sensor. I'm still thinking its a fuel issue. I get 61 PSI at the test port when ignition is on, 55 when cranking, and 54 while running.
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Car occasionally fails to start or will start and immediately die. Engine turns over, spark plugs are getting spark, but engine either won't catch or will start and immediately die.
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I have a 1998 Honda Accord that intermittently won't start. When the issue occurs the dashboard lights, radio, etc all work just fine, but the engine won't turn over (no clicking, no noise at all). It's standard vehicle, but I definitely have my foot all the way to the floor to depress the clutch safety switch. The issue only seems to occur when the car is warm (i.e. it never happens on the first start in the morning), although it's been known to happen even after 2hrs of cooling down. The issue used to only occur 1 out of 100 starts, but now it's getting closer to 1 out of 4 times. I'm able to get the car going by jump starting it, but that's getting old.
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I have a 1998 chevy blazer and I cant get it to start. I removed the starter and turned the key and can see the starter popping out and spinning, but when I put it back into the flywheel all I get is clicking noise(like if the battery is dead) I had it on jumper cables so I don't think its the battery?
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I have a 98 F150, 4.6L with approx. 245,000 miles on it. recently it started, then studdered a little bit and died. I managed to get it re-started, it then shuddered a little more although I was able to drive it back up the drive way and park it. Now, it will crank however it does not even attempt to fire. The sound that it makes when trying to start seems odd to me. Like the engine is just turning against a constant resistance instead of the normal starting sound. I tried shooting a little starter fluid into the throttle body and nothing changed. I pressed on the shrader valve and got a spew of fuel to come out so it seems that it might not be a fuel problem though it sure sounds like one. Just curious, what are the symptoms of a truck with no compression?
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Like the title says my 98 stang will not start when the engine is hot. It starts perfectly when the engine is cold. When the engine is at normal operating temp the starter cranks like normal but the engine will not catch. If i give it a little gas while cranking it the engine will start until i take my foot off the gas then it shuts down. after i leave the car for about and hour it will start. I have new plugs, wires, alternator, fuel filter, air filter and my last oil change was three weeks ago. the battery holds a good 12.6v, I had the timing fixed in june. I jumped the fuel pump relay and there is good pressure up to the fuel filter.
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I have issues with engine starting when cold outside or after rain. This only happens when engine is cold and has not been started for a day or 2. Distributor cap does not have any condensation inside but does seem to corrode on contact points. Engine turns over fine, has fuel and spark. When this happens engine will not fire and after awhile it will start to fire and lock up when it fires then continue cranking. After repeated attempts it will start and run fine, can be shut off and start right back up with out any issues. It could take a few tries to a few hours of trying before running though. I'm leaning toward a distributor or timing issue. Am I on the right track? 98 Suburban K1500 5.7L ....
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I'm 1200 miles from home living in a hotel right now. Was on my way to the store this morning and I took it out of gear. When to put it back in, and it wouldn't go in. Fortunately, I was still moving, so I coasted off into a parking lot. Once I shut the engine off, it went right into gear. It moves freely through them all. As soon as I start the engine, it won't shift. It is not my clutch. I can start the engine with it in gear and the clutch in, and it won't creep at all (was sitting on level ground when I tried). At least this means I can get it places if I slip the clutch a lot. Took the inspection cover off, and all looks well in there. It hasn't been acting strange. It shifted just fine right up until this. No strange noises either until now.
Now there is a slight squeaking sound if I try to force it into gear with our without the clutch pushed in. Since I've never let a mechanic touch my baby before, and I have to now, what possible things should I be looking for to make sure they are honest? I'm thinking maybe I killed my pilot bearing? Second, while its apart, I'm going to have them replace the clutch and slave cylinder since its got 160K on it and as far as I know, the previous owners never did that. Recommendations on what clutch to get? Its been towing some lately. I don't know if that makes a difference.
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