Passat (B5) :: 1998 Quit Accelerating Completely While Driving
Nov 24, 2007
Okay, I've had about enough of this car. Recently, while driving, the car quit accelerating completely. I believe the Check Engine light came on but I'm not sure; I was rather frustrated at that particular time. Anyways, I've heard a few different theories as to what it can be (i.e. coil park, fuel pump, pump relay, etc.) I've really not got a lot of money to work with at all and I'm on the verge of just selling it as is. The car now will not turn over. I recently replaced the battery and the lights and stereo, etc. work.
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I just purchased a 1995 SL1. It has 95,000 on the car. It was a tow vehicle for an older man.It has an automatic transmission. It runs great but makes this funny noise. When you put the car in drive after having it completely shut off and after starting to accelerate to about 5 mph it makes a funny click clack noise followed by a beep. It does not sound mechanical but like a relay or something. It only does it once. As long as you don't turn the car off completely it does not do it again no matter if you put it back in park. If you turn the motor off and turn the key to ACC it does not do it. No other sounds at all. Transmission shifts fine. What it might be?
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2000 Passat GLS V6 Manual Transmission 102k miles
I was stopped at a light tonight making a left hand turn, I had the car in 1st gear and the my foot on the clutch. I slowly released the clutch and proceeded to make my left hand turn, halfway thru the turn the car made a noise that sounded like a pop (almost as if something came apart underneath the front end of the car and was loose) and then my manual transmission went into neutral. I slowly coasted to the side of the road and had the vehicle towed.
After I had coasted to the side, I tried putting the car into gear and the engine would rev up but the vehicle would not go forward or reverse. I tried all 5 gears and reverse. While sitting there the car would beep and the screen would say "hand brake on" and if I put the car into first this message would go off. The message only came on about 2 times in 5 minutes and never stayed on.
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Asking for my Dad. Driving lights suddenly quit coming on. dealer checked fuses - no problem. Dealer (oil change guy) not sure how to access lights for bulb checking or replacement. Says you need to remove front bumper cover...
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My a/c has not been working so we added R134a yesterday and it fixed the problem just like it did last summer. Once I was finished I left the a/c on high when I shut my car off. This morning when I left for work it was too cold so I turned it to the "off" position. On my drive I decided to turn the a/c on and make sure it was still getting cold at which point nothing happened, absolutely no air (hot or cold) was blowing out. I kept turning it on and off and at one point the a/c did start working again at which point I turned the fan speed to low. A few minutes later the blower completely quit working again. Nothing works at any speed, any position regardless of heat or a/c. Absolutely nothing is blowing out of my vents. I can hear something that sounds like opening and closing when I change the position/type of a/c/heat but the other than that the only sound is a "shhhhhhh" when I turn it to the off position. Where to start on diagnosing and fixing this issue?
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The engine of our VW Passat 2000 quit suddenly while driving home on freeway. Night. Rain. We put on the flasher lights as we were slowing while trying to move to the right lane. No shoulder as we we were on a bridge. Do not remember being rammed from behind. Had a new battery installed one month earlier after VW mechanics could find no reason for intermittent non-starting of car which we had been experiencing. They had run "fault codes".
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I have a 2007 Hyundai Sonata SE XM (153K miles). The speedometer and odometer have quit working completely. The speedometer doesn't even move from zero, no bouncing around or anything. The odometer also is not logging miles. My transmission shifts gears just fine and the cruise control works as well. I bought an OBD-II scanner and no codes came up. My first thought was maybe the vehicle speed sensor, but everything I've found on that say the car will shift poorly and the speedometer bounces around.
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I have been reading about some folks are having those vibration at certain speeds... Recently I also started noticing some strange vibrations... It happens when I am accelrating and driving on curved road at speed 100KM and up... I still cannot detect the source of these vibration as sometime it feels from steeing column or front suspension frame... All I can say its really annoying. Also, mechtronics valve body soon will be replaced as it is driving my DSG really insane.
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I'm a fairly new owner, and the 89 gt I just bought came in very good shape. Yesterday the manual clutch just went completely soft. I felt this for about a week when I first purchased it, but only in first gear and it worked itself out and hadn't recurred since then. Now the clutch will not disengage. Gears move well when the car is off though. I noticed the clutch fluid was totally empty when I looked under the hood yesterday. Is this indicative of a bad master or slave cylinder? Or do I just need to bleed and refill the fluid? I love driving this car and want to again soon.
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I own a 1998 Volvo S70 with a turbo. As I was driving the other day I shifted the car from 4-5 gear. After I had the car in 5 gear, it chugged forward. I pulled to the stop light and the car stalled. It started again and I made it home. I checked the fluids and they were low so I added oil and power steering. It drove fine for the rest of the day until later in the evening when it chugged again after shifting. I then drove it the next day and the car completely died at the stop light. I couldn't restart it. It would turn but wouldn't stay on. There was also a strange smell coming from the engine after trying to start it again. Ive been told possible fuel pump or maybe the catalytic converter because of the smell..
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All instruments on panel are going completely to the right. Sometimes they do not work at all. I was told the cluster under the dash could be bad.
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1998 buick regal gs. My problem is when i throw my turn signal on at a stop or coming to a stop the car completely shuts off. Also now I have the problem with when that occurs I try to start it and now it won't do anything! Then once started the brake light and the anti lock light with the trac light is on and wont let me move the gear shifter out of park!
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ok, 3 times now I've been extremely close to being hit head on by oncoming traffic due to a seemingly uncurable stalling problem. It idles rough sometimes, and other times it seems fine. BUT when sitting at a light, waiting to turn left after the oncoming traffic has a quick opening, I start to go, I get halfway across the intersection and then without warning, it dies completely. Now its too late to stop and back up- and the cars are flying head on towards you locking up they're brakes. One time I would have been killed by the 18 wheeler that was coming if I hadn't gotten it started and moving again just in time.
I replaced the IAC, the plugs, filters and wires, and the EGR valve. I checked everywhere for intake leaks and found nothing. Changed the O2 sensors since they had plenty of mileage on em. It idles like crap still, even after 30+ tanks of every kind of injector cleaner they make. We used the snap on scanner tool to monitor things and it never acted up then. The TPS seems to move smoothly, and fuel pressure was checked and found to be around 25-30 psi. Don't know if that's normal. The intake air temp was reading a constant 120 degrees F. I also checked the fuel cap to make sure it was closing completely. The dealer checked the TB for excessive clearance and said it was ok.
It seems to only stall like that after driving on the highway and then stopping at the first light after that.
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I have a 98 Accord LX with 2.3L 4 cyl. with 356,000 miles. It looks and runs fantastic. However, lately, both the headlights and heater/blower/control console -- either will not come on even though the engine is running or sometimes flicker while driving down the road. When I type in "98 Accord no headlights" it gives me a couple topics about headlights then jumps all around and even goes to totally different car manufactures. I'm sure out of 305 pages of replies there are lots of readers that have had similar issues. I installed a new alternator about 3-4 months ago.
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I have heard that it is the ign switch but I have changed it twice already whats my next step??
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I have a 1998 windstar with a 3.8. I took my daughter Christmas shopping and noticed the car did not want to shift out of first gear. I shifted it manually to second and then DRIVE and that worked until I stopped at a light. I took off in DRIVE and the car did shift to second and third on its own but it shifted late and hard. Also, the speedometer quit working and the overdive light on the shifter just turned on by itself and then went out. By the time we got home, the SERVICE ENGINE SOON light was on. All these symptoms happened in a relatively short amount of time (5 miles). I suspect something electrical but am not sure. Is there a speed sensor fuse on these cars?
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I am having problems with the blower on my truck. I can feel the air coming from vents no matter what setting on it. I think it maybe the blower itself as it was working and just quit. Is there a fuse for the blower that I can check? And I have the V6 4.2L 2 wheel drive
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The digital dash went out a while back and I never fixed it. Now if the lights are on dim the left headlight will not come on and the right will flicker like a strobe. When the brights are on, the right works normally, but the left will flick on and off. When the left light goes off the speedometer quits working, the abs and trac lights will come on, the cruise quits working, and the wipers quit working. Sometimes it works normally, but the problem is more frequent of late. Hitting bumps in the road seems to effect it sometimes, which points to a short or something poorly connected. Is this a multi-switch issue or a lighting control module issue, or both, or something else.
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I have a 1998 e-250, 5.4 4EOD/4R100. The speedometer quit working and with that came hard shifts. This happened previously (only with a blinking O/D light that time) and I replaced the VSS and then the shift solenoid and filter in the transmission pan. That fixed the issue for about 3 days. There were no codes in the computer.
For a couple days the speedometer would not work until about 15-20 mph, then it would work and shift normally. Now there is no speedo action and the shifts are hard at high RPMs.
In the days leading up to this problem I heard a clicking in the dash, seemingly behind the cluster. Kind of like a turn signal but a bit fainter. Before I go and order a cluster...is there anything else I should be checking for? I have no warning lights, and as I said earlier the O/D light is not blinking. We're converting the van to a camper for our upcoming honeymoon and tracing this down is cutting into the buildout.
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so I was driving down the street the other day then my car completely shut off no interior lights car won't turn over radio wont turn on had to push it up the hill, to get it out of the street and get it towed.
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My 7.3 skips when driving, completely random, but it did skip many times in a row when driving over a bridge, moisture seem to be the culprit somehow. I have replaced CPS, UVCH, Glow Plug, Glow plug relay. I have not replaced the harness from outside the valve cover to the CPU that controls them. Its a 200.000km truck (125.000) miles, that has been well kept and seen little towing in its life. How did you fix your 7.3 from skipping? When it was not a CPS?
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