Passat (B5) :: 1998 - PRND321 Lights Illuminated All The Time And Downshifts Hard Into 1st Gear
Aug 12, 2010
I have a 1998 Passat 4cyl turbo. Recently the ICM module on the air box went out when I had No Fire on 2nd cyl from the front. Replaced it with a MPGauto part for $63. It fixed the problem but, I noticed that now the PRND321 lights are luminated all the time and downshifts hard into 1st gear. Also should I be concerned that I need another catalytic converter b/c I drove another 40 miles with it missing and it (CC) was very hot. Do they break down inside? The car runs great. Is my problem related to this china part not having a special VW code or can the car be reset?
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Drove to work today and all was fine. Came out at 3 and started my Elantra up, dropped it into gear and it was ROUGH. Engine ran for a few seconds before I put it in gear. The shifts up the street were hard and the downshifts were equally hard. I put the transmission in manual--same thing. After a few minutes, the shifts returned to normal. No CEL. The car has 48,700 miles on it.
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2012 2.5 SE Auto 53,000 miles ... A few days ago I started getting very hard downshifts and long upshifts. The downshifts were hard enough that the person at the dealer didn't make it out of the parking lot on the test drive. Most noticeable from 3-2 and 2-1. 1-2 is hard and 2-3, 3-4 and 4-5 take a few seconds to happen. No lights or limp mode.
In recent months I was getting a thump about a second or two after coming to a stop. Enough of a thump that the car would move forward if I didn't have my foot firmly on the brake. They flashed something(the ECU?) claiming there was a TSB for my complaint but it didn't seem to make a difference. I bought the car with 40,000 and the trans never felt right to me. I had them change the fluid just before 50,000 so they couldn't deny a claimed based on failure to maintain.
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I have a 2008 passat komfort with 53K miles on it (TSI engine). I had the water pump replaced two weeks ago at the local dealer. After this procedure I am getting all gear shift lights on at the same time on the dashboard, after I drive the car roughly 8 miles. I would like to avoid going back to the dealer since I don't trust them.
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I have a 98 f150 4x4, 4.6L 150k miles, during start up the blinker indicator lights on the dash illuminated and stayed on, when trying the blinkers they did not work, but if I shut the head lights off the blinkers do work and indicators respond normally. This is the same if I turn the fan blower on, blinkers don't work and indicators stay illuminated. Also I have found that the power windows, and 4wd no longer work. Other functions work such as power mirror, radio etc. all fuses under the dash and under the hood are good, I tried switching some of the relays to see if that changed anything but with no success . took the kick panel off and inspected the grounds and all seem tight. It looks like the main battery ground is just to the body and there is one solid ground from the frame to the body under the cab. all seem tight and don't appear to be corroded. Truck starts and runs great.
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Are your mirror controls illuminated when you turn the lights on?
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I own a 1998 Chevy K1500 Silverado. About a year and a half ago my interior lights stopped turning off. I found that the only way to make the lights go out is to pull the interior light fuse. With the fuse pulled my lights will go out when the key is in the off position. With the key in any position besides off and the radio on my cab lights are on half bright. If I turn off the radio or pull the radio fuse the lights go out. My mechanic and I both investigated this and came up with the same answer: the Keyless Entry Module. After living with no cab lights for a year and a half (in northern New Hampshire) I broke down and paid the 180 bucks for the "Remote Function Actuation Module" (I had to take my dash apart and get the part number off the old module to figure out which one of three or four possible modules was used in my truck). Now that I have replaced the module I still have the same problem. If it's not the module then what is causing my lights to stay on all the time with the fuse in or come on half bright with the fuse pulled?
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I have a 1999 Chevy s10 truck 2.2L with 202k miles on it. I have a real difficult time getting my car into gear, and mainly first and second. I my clutch pedal has to be pumped for 4 minutes before it will disengage, and when it does its pressed nearly all the way in. Also, I need to cram it into gear real fast or it won't go in, sometimes it takes maybe 5 times to go into gear. I was all of this is much worse in the winter.
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Lately (within the last couple of days) when we park the Excursion we have a difficult time getting it out of park and into gear whether it is going in to Reverse or Drive the gear shift does not want to move.
I have not forced anything at any time but eventually with some pumping of the brake pedal and some putting into park and out of park we can free it up. This is something that happened virtually overnight and once we are in gear everything is normal.
What is causing it? I am making an assumption that it has to be some switch in the steering column but I am no mechanic and only guessing.
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I start the car and everything looks good. I drive 10 feet and the ABS and Brake light come on at the same time. I replaced the "ABS CONTROL MODULE UNIT COMPUTER" that was under the dash by the steering column but that didn't work. Brakes feel firm and strong. Breaks well. What next?
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1998 Passat 1.8t B5 sedan. OEM fog lights up front. No rear fog lights.
I recently upgraded to a "Euro" light switch to get more flexibility with my lights. Put tape on the TFL pin to disable DRLs in OFF Mode. Put tape on the 56d pin to disable DRLs in CITY LIGHTS (Parking Lights) mode. Completely successful -- no DRLs, just as taping the TFL pin on the original light switch accomplished long ago.
BEFORE I did any taping this time, I installed the Euro switch AS IS and tested all of its modes and physical positions:
(1) OFF: No fog light position available (switch knob will not pull out). As expected and okay.
(2) FULL ON Fog lights come on (but who the hell can see them?!?) when switch knob is pulled out one stop into the fog light position -- and the little front fog symbol on the switch lights up. Again, expected and just fine.
(3) CITY LIGHTS (Parking Lights): The fog lights position is physically available by pulling the switch knob out one stop... BUT THE PARKING LIGHTS DO NOT COME ON (regardless of ignition switch position, emergency hand brake position, etc., etc.) And the little fog light symbol on the switch does not light up. (Not surprisingly, pulling the knob further out to the REAR fog light position does nothing either.)
THIS IS NOT GOOD - since with a Euroswitch one ought to be able to manually select and de-select the fog lights while in CITY LIGHTS (Parking Lights) mode!
How to make my FRONT FOG LIGHTS available in Euroswitch CITY LIGHTS (Parking Lights) mode...?
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The truck:
2000 4X2 F150
4.2l V6
280k miles/ some towing
The problem : The trans has a hard time getting into 1st gear. When you put it into gear you have to rev it to about 3k (when it's warm, 4k when cold) RPMs at which time you feel a definite engagement and it goes through the rest of the gears just fine. Once it's warm it will do stop and go traffic as long as you start it with the OD off.
The background : Orobably the stock motorcraft filter on there, and I don't think the oil has been changed in the life of the trans, but I do know that it's never been ran low on fluid. I took a gander at it and found a plug where a gear type speedo went on older models to be loose and leaking. tightened it up about two full turns. also noticed what looks to be a leak where the main case meets the output shaft housing. now I know neither of these are the cause of my headache but I do wonder if the second leak might be a sign.
The research : I've been looking for almost a week now for a solution. I've been all over TCCoA, Explorer Forum,10 pages of search here on FTE and various other Ford based websites and have come across a single thread with the same symptoms but the OP never came back with a solution.
The plan : A fluid/filter change (and flush) is definitely in the plans as well as inline filter for my own satisfaction. from what I've read the stock 1-2 accumulator is known to go bad on some of these and if I have the pan off might as well check anyways.
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I have a 1998 chevy blazer v6 about 127024 miles. My transmission shifts hard out of first gear when i get to 4 gear and it shifts hard. When car warms up really good car shifts find out of first gear but 4th gear still shifts hard. I did change transmission fluid and new filter in it and I check fluid level and it's full.
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I have a problem with my 2003 Ford Focus ZTS. It has a 2.0L ZETEC engine and is automatic. I recently replaced the Starter, Alternator, and battery cable because the car was having some current issues. All parts are brand new, non-refurbished. The car cranks fine but is now sputtering. When I drive it, it seems like it has a hard time switching out of first gear and and will hit 3-3500 RPM before the gear shifts.
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My 2006 FSi Passat is having problem starting every time I put gas in it. It starts fine at other times only hard after adding gas. What could be wrong?
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My 2004 VW jetta has 139k on it. Whenever I come to a hard-ish stop or almost-stop, the transmission downshifts to 1st and won't get out of it unless i play with the tiptronic mode selector and coax it to upshift. it shifts well and works well in gingerly driving other than in this circumstance. i took it to a shop and they say (as they always do) it needs a new tranny. I'm wondering out loud if there is some kind of mounting instability issue that could explain this. This is definitely a case of needing a new transmission. I have read a bunch about solenoids being the culprit in general shifting problems, but not this exact set of symptoms and circumstances.
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Feb. 2, 2010, I had my '04 Phaeton in for service (88,997 mi) because it would not start. After diagnosis, found faulty brake switch and shifter mechanism. Removed and replaced brake switch, shifter assy, and PRNDL sensor. On Feb. 17, '10, after I started car, it sounded like it was in wrong gear and all drives were lit on dash. Turned off, started again and everything was OK. Called service tech to let him know; he said he would notify mechanic.
On Fri., 19 Mar. '10 at around 2:15 p.m., was driving and noticed again that all drive lights were lit on dash. Pulled off road, turned off motor, started again, and everything seemed OK. Went farther down road, entered super highway, pressed accel. to pass tractor-trailer, only to notice all gears were again lit, as well as a new engine outline (in orange). As I was passing the truck, car surged forward and then made a loud clunk, I drove at 60 on the 70 mph rd. to get to rest area. Turned off motor, looked in manual and it stated car should be taken to dealer. Since it was still "drivable" and I didn't need a tow, I tried calling the dealer 4 times, but only got through to an answering machine. I decided to take car to dealer.
When I arrived, I spoke to the only service writer at the desk, and he was new. Told me they were too busy to take my car that day. I asked to speak to VW service manager, and he said I should not drive car. Car now has 91,509 mi.
I was wondering, why all gear lights keep coming on at the same time, and why the car feels like it has to shift to the next gear. I am thinking the repairs on Feb.2 were not complete.
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Was having a hard time shifting fast from 1st to 2nd when accelerating hard, it was like something was blocking the 2nd gear gate, same thing sometimes when downshifing fast from 6th to 5th.
After JT recommending it here, I installed the Neuspeed torque arm insert. Used a scissor jack on the left front side (it has a wide base), got under the car from the front bumper passenger side. 21mm bolt was tight, but got it out with a regular length 1/2 inch socket bar. Insert was hard to get in (even after spraying silicone on it), finally just sprayed silicone into the existing bushing and the insert slipped right in.
First test drive really made it easy to shift from 1st to 2nd under hard acceleration only a slight bump when entering the 2nd gear gate, downshifing was smooth too. Down side? none that I noticed, no vibration.
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When ever I "Brake boost" it kills the power when I hit the brake and gas hard at the same time.
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I've been suffering for this issue for quite a while. My passat 06 is experience a hard time to start up after sitting over night. The first attempt in the morning is always shaky. Then, it starts up okay during the day. Even like after driving 5 mins and I can restart it without any problem. But it's the first time of the day that troubles me.
And some history, my battery died completely like 2 months ago, and I replaced it with a Duracell. At first, it has no problem start up at all. But there was one day I forgot to turn of the lights and leaved my car over night.
The next morning, I was able to start it but with some difficulty. Since then, I have been experiencing hard times in starting up. Need to point out the issue? I'm really afraid to have a dead battery in a parking lot 1 hour away from my apartment again ..
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VW says I might need a new clutch. I have 85k on original. When are your clutches going? Do I need to change the dmflywheel as well?
i thought it might be a bad synchro. It only does it when warmed up and on downshifts. I can let the rpms drop all the way down before shifting and it will grind. rev matching i think still grinds. wont do it cold.
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