Just curious on what it could be. I checked all fuses I did find some blown ones but I replaced them then the car worked and now it not cranking again. I checked the fuses I found another bad one i replaced it but still not cranking. All lights turn on, radio turns on. The fuses were check engine slots.
View 2 RepliesI replaced the battery in my 07 3.6 4mo thinking it was in need due to the cranking time getting longer and longer recently. I began to notice this since the winter. I think it was somewhat there in the summer and fall also but when its super cold or the car has been run in a day or so it seems to be worse. Anyway replaced the battery and it didn't change much at all.
View 16 RepliesB5 1.8T - A few weeks ago, I had some battery issues. Long story short, I ended up changing the battery. A few days later I began to have an issue with my coil/ICM. I decided it was probably a good time to do the delete and conversion to 2.0FSI coils. Before doing that, I used a generic hand held scanner to clear codes and see which would come back just to have a baseline for after the conversion.
At this point, car is not starting at all and I'm getting smell of fuel after cranking. I pull out plugs and see they are soaked with gas. I probably shouldn't have, but at this point I went and converted everything over, expecting that when I was done it would start....
Meanwhile, at this point the car cranks but doesn't start, and it seems as if fuel is dumping into the cylinders. Hooking up to an Elmscan5 and Scantool software, I get absolutely no codes (it IS connecting to ECU to some extent). Im not even able to get the cable to work at all with VCDS lite..
So I have NO codes and a car that turns over but wont start and smells strongly of fuel when I'm cranking it.. I am reluctant to buy anymore tools or software at this point; I'm thinking maybe I fried the ECM, or could it be as simple as throttle body adaptation?
My daughter drives a 2005 Passat station wagon, has a small child and one on the way. She has had intermittent problems with the car just not wanting to crank. After sitting 15-20 minutes it will crank. But the wait and not knowing if it will crank is taxing me and her. Especially since she has another one on the way. She has taken it to a reputable mechanic. They kept it for 3 days, cranking it on and off without a problem, and told her they couldn't find anything.
View 3 RepliesI just purchased a 98 Passat 1.8t with 100k and noticed when I let it warm up for more than 10 minutes I start to get white smoke from the tailpipe and the ground underneath the pipe is wet. I can't figure out if its a head gasket because my coolant hasn't gone down too much or if its a problem with the turbo.
View 2 RepliesThis is my dad's car.... Today it began taking a while to start. It will turn over, just doesn't start. If you crank on it a while it will eventually start then runs perfectly fine. The problem occurs both cold and hot. I tried cycling the key 5 times, each time until you hear the fuel pump shut off then cycle again... it's starts just fine doing that. If you shut it off then try to restart, it'll just sit there and crank until you cycle the key a few times. There's no check engine light or OBD codes.
The fuel pump only runs for a second or two when you flip on the key, which tells me it's not having a problem coming up to pressure... and I'd imagine if I had a fuel pressure issue, it wouldn't be running smoothly and I'd have some hesitation, right?
I have a 2002 Camry LE V6 with 189K on it and noticed that it takes several seconds (4 to 5 seconds) of cranking before the car starts. When the car was newer, it used to crank quicker.
Here is what I have done so far:
- Changed all spark plugs @ dealer using iridium type
- Always used Premium Fuel (Petro Canada 91 grade)
- Put in a bottle of injector cleaner (Redline Complete Fuel System Cleaner)
- Throttle Body has been cleaned about 20K ago
- Oil changes are Mobil 1 5W30 year round with Denso Filter
- Battery was replaced last year with an Optima Red Top and was tested a few months back to be in excellent working order.
What I have observed is that when the weather is VERY cold outside (i.e. -20), it seems to crank quicker, but if I keep my car parked in my garage overnight and start it, it takes several seconds. I have never had the car not start on me so that's a good thing.
My 2000 honda accord v6 wont start (150,000 miles). It feels like its cranking over just wont go anywhere from there. So it doesn't seem like an starter issue or battery issue. It has done this to me in the past a couple of times but after letting it sit there for a bit it started back up. The weather hasn't been an issue on the times it wanted to start or not start. I know a oil change is due and
The EGR valve needs to be cleaned/replaced but could those things make my car from not starting? When i put the key in the car and turn it to the II, the Maintenance required light comes on and the light for the key just keeps blinking.
i've got a 2000 chevy impala 3.4 v6 E. runs great once it starts, but lately that takes a lot of cranking. it's getting spark. it's got a new alternator, battery, starter, plugs and wires (and i checked for spark already) I think it's a fuel issue but don't know where to start looking because it has no other problems. there's no smoke or noises, no misfires, or hesitations. i put in a new fuel filter. i have heard that it could be the fuel pressure regulator or maybe even a leak in the line that's causing it to not get pressure. i can't hear any sort of fuel pump sound (maybe i'm deaf) is there a way to check this without a gauge? i simply don't have one and don't have the money to take it to a shop. p.s. i recently replaced both o2 sensors, but i can't see how that would effect the starting. pump, hose, regulator, fuse?
View 4 RepliesHaving a problem with the engine cranking over a few times before actually starting. This only happens after the car has been sitting over night. Thought maybe it was a bad battery, but it has been replaced in the last few months.
When I turn the key to start, it tries to fire for up to 3 seconds before actually starting. This only happens on the first start of the day, after that it starts quickly with no problems.
I've only had the car a month, and it's happened maybe three times now. I turn the key, and it takes twice as long as usual to start, about 5 full seconds of the engine cranking before it ignites. I think each time was after I had driven the car an hour or two before (when I'm heading home after an outing). Most of the time, the car starts fine. What's going on?
View 11 Replies1996 f150 sometimes it starts sometimes it don't. It is cranking over the starter is in gauging as well as the fuel pump I can hear it.... It's getting spark and I replaced the starter solenoid.
View 5 RepliesI had posted earlier about replacing the harness or at the very least the plug that broke off of the cam shaft sensor on our 98 Subaru Outback. Well, I replaced the plug, and the cam and crank shaft sensors as well and it is still cranking but not firing.
View 7 RepliesSeveral weeks ago I made another thread because I was having crankshaft position sensor problems and essentially that was due to a short on the sensors wires which had become exposed. I replaced the sensor and it still did not work until later trying another brand which solved the problem.
I also changed all six spark plugs, wires, and plenum gasket with OEM parts. I was able to get to the back three plugs by following this tutorial with the guidance of a friend who is a mechanic. After getting this done, the car has run way better and smoother.
However, today it has been raining heavily and I needed to run an errand so I went to my car and turned the key but nothing happened. All the dash lights turned on and appeared normal. My radio works, lights work, etc; but I can not get the car to crank at all. I hear the fuel pump turn on and everything else sounds normal, but still no crank. There are no sounds from the starter at all, it is silent when I try to get the car to turn over.
I took a look at the car and the coil pack seems dry, the plug wires are secure, plus we had put di-electric grease on all those connections. The negative terminal on the battery has a solid connection. I even tried jumping the car to see if maybe it was due to the battery, but again nothing happened.
This has only happened once before when it was raining, before I had changed the plugs and wires, but I was able to get it to crank over after about 4 minutes of waiting and contemplating getting a tow. I took a look at all the fuses and they appear to be intact.
2002 elantra gls 125k miles, Automatic
I have a very intermittent problem starting the vehicle first thing in the morning ( this has happened twice this week, but only 5-6 times in the past year or so). It will crank and sound as if it just about to start, but not quite fire. After 5-10 mins of cranking, shifting into and out of gear, rocking vehicle (not sure what actually causes it to start, if anything) the car fires and runs just fine, starting normally until the next "event".
Plugged it in and got no codes.. The only difference I can see is that every time this has happened recently the car has been parked in a parking garage at work on a minor incline for about 13 hours.
I have a 2000 Accent with 90k miles. The last week or two, it takes about 5- 6 seconds of cranking to start when the engine is cold. Having had the car since new, I know that it's not normal.
The engine seems to crank strongly, and once started idles and drives well. This occurs once about every 4 starts when engine cold. Warm engine starts normal.
Changed plugs - no difference. Maintenance current per owners manual schedule.
I have a 1982 Chevy C30 pickup with an ignition problem. When it's really cold out, 15 degrees or colder, it won't start. When I turn the key, it feels like I'm turning a piece of clay. There is NO cranking, clicking or any sound made. The accessories won't work either. The last time this happened, I heated the ignition tumbler with a heat gun and the truck started. It started one time after that. Then on a warm day it started once; then wouldn't restart. I turn the key and nothing. It had to be towed. I wondering if the problem is the ignition tumbler, where I put the key, or the ignition switch, which is located near the bottom of the steering column.
View 3 RepliesQuick truck stats: 2005 F150, 5.4L, 85,000 miles
The past few weeks my engine has been hesitating on some cranks before it would start. I figured it was due to the cold weather so didn't pay too much attention to it as it was also not throwing the check engine light.
Yesterday it didn't start at all after the several attempts of just cranking over and over. It still didn't seem to trip the check engine light but I pulled my scanner out anyways and it had the code p1237. I cleared it and the truck started right up. It even had no more issues the three times I started the truck after that.
Today, however, she is not starting again and not throwing any codes. Still cranking so I'm sure it's not the started or the battery. I'm going to have my husband pick up some starter fluid on his way home today to see if I can at least get a temporary start since I think it's the fuel pump, or possibly the fuel filter. It is cold again this morning so I'm wondering if the cold is somehow making this issue worse. Either way I'd like to fix it, since being stranded with a truck that doesn't start is not my idea of a way to pass the time.
What else it might be and how I might be able to diagnose it?
My Honda Civic 98 starts funny. It will hesitate about 3-5 seconds before cranking and sometimes after starting the starter will grind momentarily before letting go.
View 5 Replies02 Chevy Impala with 177,000 miles has re-starting problems for last 20,000 miles. New Battery, cleaned throttle plate, new fuel pump, check engine light on (emission problem was told to me by mechanic). Whats going on?
When the car runs it runs very well...to get the car started, just wait, sometimes 5 minutes, sometimes longer than an hour. All the time periodically cranking the engine...just does not start. But when it does start, it runs very well.
This problems occurs only after the car has started and is warm. Let it sit for a while then restarting the problem occurs.
The explorer has been having an issue starting after its warmed up. Starts perfectly fine when its cold. but sometimes when I drive, stop for 1-10 minutes, it takes a long time to get her to start up. Typically 30sec to 1 min of cranking. Doesn't seem to have any idle issues or issues running.
View 2 Replies