Passat (B5) :: 1998 - No Startup Not Even Click / Ignition Switch Changed
Dec 19, 2011
I recently bought a 98 Passat with what was thought to be an ignition switch problem.. well I changed the switch today and the problem is still there.. it would start sometimes and and sometimes it won't do anything. Not even click.. and sometimes when it starts it sounds like the starter isn't getting enough juice.. another weird thing is that I can start the car without pressing the clutch.(when it does start).. There is actually a couple of electrical oddities going on.. the moonroof would go up by itself randomly and the radio (after matket) doesn't save any of my presets. Every time I turn the car off the radio resets.. so I'm thinking some weird electrical problem is going on..
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I'm trying to get friend's 04 F150 4x4 started. I think it might be the ignition switch. Here's what I've done. Turn the Key and nothing happens. Not even a clicking sound from the battery.
-verified the battery had a good charge and that terminals were clean, connections were tight.
-checked the fuses in the passenger side kick panel, none were blown
-Determined there was power to the primary Pos wire going to the starter , but no power being sent to the smaller wire that goes to solenoid at the starter.
-Hooked a jumper wire to the starter solenoid and engine did crank (so starter is good and battery is making good connection)
This is why I'm thinking its the ignition switch.
1) Where is the ignition switch located?
2)How can I test the ignition switch?
3)Could it be the "cylinder lock and keys" that is faulty?
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We have a lovely 1998 Buick Riviera with less than 140,000 miles. Normally, it runs great but in the last year, it has developed a neurosis. When we try to start it, 98% of the time, it starts immediately. Once in awhile, you can place the key in the ignition, "click" and nothing. It's as if the car were dead. Trying over and over is a waste of time. You have to wait about 5 minutes or so and WHAM! ... it starts right away. Then it will continue to start fine for days and have a relapse. I can usually tell that it is about to happen because there will be a tiny (fraction of a second) gap between the moment we turn the key and the response. It will do this 4-5 times and then "play dead". Wait 5 minutes and no problem. Then it will continue to run fine for days - even weeks.
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The car is a 1998 Nissan Maxima. As you well know a car's interior in the summer is about 10 to 15 degrees more than the outside. When the outside temperature is 80 degrees or more I can't readily start the car. I turn the key and nothing happens. Sometimes I put the switch into the "on" position wait about 20 to 30 seconds, turn the key again and the engine starts. I think I need an ignition switch. My question is why does this happen? What does the temperature of the car's interior have to do with the poor operation of the switch? The interior of the car must be about 75 degrees or less for the car to start.
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just wondering what are the problems typically associated with a long start up. it took about 8-10 seconds from the time i put in the key fob to ignition. it was especially cold and windy today, so i know the cold had something to do with it.
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well for a few days the car woudln't start every 10 times or so , i'd turn it back and forth a few times and it would kick over , then tonight wife took it and it just wouldn't start so i went and picked her up and tried it about a 100 times and called a tow truck
so what does everyone think it is, everything else is normal but the no crank. ignition switch maybe? I'm going to try and pop the clutch after it gets here, i didn't have the room or distance to try it where it was
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This problem has been with the car since I bought it in 2004 and lived up north in Yellowknife, NT. Whenever the outside temp got down to minus 20 or so the car would not start. Turn the ignition switch on and all the idiot lights are on, turn the key to engage the starter and nothing. I found out by trial and error that if I let the key turn back to the ignition setting ever so slowly it will come to a point where the starter engages. It takes some trial and error but usually that works. However, if it got to minus 30 even that would not work. I would then have to place an electric heater in the driver's foot well for half an hour or so and then the car would start perfect.
Now I've moved south where it does not get that cold however now the problem is happening even at zero degrees. Yesterday was minus 1 or 2 and car would not start without jiggling the ignition switch around. Today plus 11 and starts as it should. To me it sounds like a mechanical problem with the ignition switch however I don't know.
2003 V6 GLS 4-motion....
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I have a 98 1.8T passat. The number one cylinder won't fire, according to my checks, the ignition coil is not being activated by the CPU, (no current at the connector only ground) what could cause this problem. Any way to check the crank or cam sensor.
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I recently bought a 2006 Hyundai Sonata 3.3 V6. Had another issue related to the rear wheel, which I fixed. Today, I changed the oil filter on the car (along with the oil). I have heard this engine noise before, but with the cover off it appears a little louder. It's basically a ticking sound.
The engine uses no oil, and has no other leaks. It has some noise on startup for maybe 1-2 seconds (like a loud lifter or something, but it goes away in less than 2 seconds, and at the same time the oil light goes out). I changed the filter today because I was told that a leaky gasket could result in the Filter not retaining oil between starts, causes some minor knock for a few seconds.
But anyway, this other ticking noise seems to be regular, regardless of condition. I have heard some people say that some engine noise is normal for this engine, but how about this?
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I just discovered my cruise won't "SET" (light goes out after 1/2 second) anymore after having the brake light switch done yesterday.
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I went out last night (fire training) and when I returned to my car, I unlocked it with the fob button, got in and put the key in the ignition and no click.... the key will not turn. This is the same key I drove out with. I thought if my kessey is bad, both of my keys are "locked out" My wife came out with my second key fob and the car started with no issues. My main key still won't turn in the ignition. So how do I get my car to like my main key again?
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I took the starter off over last weekend, tested it and it was working. I can hear a click every time I turn the key in the ignition but nothing after. The first time that happen I couldn't move the stick either. I change the brake light switch now it seems that I can move the shift freely but still doesn't start. In Park or Neutral I can hear a click, if I put in gear and try to start I hear nothing. So I'm thinking that it cannot be the switch Park/Neutral not working because I would not hear a click anytime.
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Not hearing a click from the start relay either when i turn over the ignition.
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Heard this really soft click-then-whistle coming from the dash area, usually shortly after starting the car? I hear it pretty regularly, it doesn't sound *bad* or *wrong*, it is just a really curious sound. Very mechanical in nature, sounds like a small hydraulic or air supply line, almost like a little relief valve. There's no whoosh of air, just kind of a really faint whistle, but very mechanized.
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I have a 2006 Santa Fe with 137K miles on it. Has been best car I ever owned, but have recently experienced a strange issue where it won't start, meaning I put the key in the ignition, turn it to the right and nothing, not even a click on the starter. I have found if I move the shifter around from P to R to D, etc. and then try it again it will start. Is there a safety interlock switch in the shifter that could be going bad and is therefore not satisfied/happy when I try to start the car? Or could the ignition hardware where I insert the key be the issue.
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So the lights work fine don't dim when trying to start the car. when you turn the ignition there is one thump but no clicks or revs like belts are moving. The battery is fairly new less than a year and as mentioned all electric things seem to be fine. I was also told by the tow guy that it was the starter but just want to be sure.
Advanced auto states they will test it but I need to get it out of the car. Only problem is I cant find it. I've looked at the manual online and seen numerous diagrams but I don't know the physical location of it do I need to get under the car to remove it? Do i need to remove anything to get to it? I haven't seen any live pictures showing where it is and I've googled it for a while now.
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My sister has a 98 chevy cavalier and it is sputtering i changed the fuel filter but that did not work.
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I have a '98 Sienna that's still running well (271k miles) but about a year ago it started acting strange, just a rare but minor irregularity in the normally smooth engine. A few months ago I changed the fuel and air filters, but that didn't affect it. So I tried changing the tank pick-up filter and confirming that the tank didn't contain any gunk. Again, no change. Since then the engine light has come on, but it still runs well enough for now. My fuel pressure is solid (manual specs, 50psi I think). I'm not sure if it's too rich or too lean, but I'm convinced it's fuel related unless someone has a better idea.
My suspects: fuel pressure regulator (in the fuel tank), clogged fuel injector(s).
Other potential clues: 270,000 miles on the original engine. No smoke (that I've noticed). After changing the filters my fuel pressure was perfectly solid at manual recommendations (50psi if i remember correctly). New battery, new fuel cap (factory cap; sometimes store-bought ones don't vent correctly). Sometimes the fluctuation goes away for a day or two, while other times it's hard to accelerate uphill at highway speeds. The issue is not clearly affected by temperature (same when 40° or 80°). It was much less noticeable when I drove to Montana this winter; they have a winter blend, which might have masked the problem (or the higher altitude). It's possible I just didn't notice it as that drive killed my steering pump and a CV boot, so my focus was on other problems at the time. I found today that can I make it shudder a little at highway speeds: letting up the pedal for a moment and gently giving it a little more gas causes a gentle shudder, and very rarely what sounds like a small muffled backfire.
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I own a 1997 Honda Odyssey-a couple of weeks ago when I turned the key it wouldn't start....no noise,no clicking however the battery was working. I called Road service for a tow home and while waiting,I kept putting in the key.After 20 min.the car started and I drove home. Since then it's gotten worse. It's a gamble to go any where, never knowing if it will start or not. My husband replaced the ignition switch-that didn't work and now says he'll replace the starter ( if that doesn't work he plans on replacing the entire ignition cylinder). My alarm system hooks into the ignition...
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I just changed the fuel pump on my 98 Isuzu Rodeo and now it wont start. The pump is getting power because i can hear it humming. Fuel is getting to the fuel rail, I checked the the shrader valve. I tested the battery and its fully charged but it wont start.
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I have a 98 sport 4.0 i bought awhile back and its been running rough.. When driving it seems to cut out.. I had it scanned and it has code PO453 which is pressure sensor.. I was told they replaced the fuel pump when i got it.. After driving and i get out i can smell gas on the drivers side.. I replaced the gas cap but no change.. I was just wondering about this code and what i should start with first..
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