Passat (B5) :: 1998 - No Power In The Door
May 13, 2006
Friend with a 98 passat. the drivers side rear door functions don't work; the power window does not work and the power door lock does not operate in the door. the other 3 doors work fine- power windows and locks. I do not have the bentley for this car so I am working at a disadvantage; where does the power for the door come from? any kind of control box? relay? fuse?
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So, last night I buy this 1998 Passat; good deal high miles but in great shape. I look around the car today and noticed that the carpet in the trunk on the side of the fuel door is disheveled. I don't think much of it until I try to access the fuel cap, then I reach in my hand and manually pop the door - so for those that want a manual way to release the door, there you have it, don't resort to screw drivers and such.
Now, I take the release mechanism off and test it with a 12volt battery - works fine. OK, so test the power going to the trunk - 4.4 volts, hmmm? I then check the switch itself and the leads going in are 4.6 volts, again.
So the questions are these:
1. What voltage should I be getting to the switch?
2. Is there a fuse associated with this switch?
3. Where does the voltage originate from?
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How to remove the rear door panel on my 1998 Passat. The window has come off the track, and I would like to try to get it back on.
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I have a 1998 VW Passat: The windows go down by themselves
Door locks are clicking
Hazard lights are flashing
The car isnt always running while this is happening, key is not in the ignition. Car can be unlocked or locked and it still happens.
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Since yesterday the power door locks on my '98 Accord LX (Sedan) are not working. I noticed that it happened after I started the car and it died on me. I tried it again but this time with my foot on accelerator and it started fine. I started driving and then noticed the locks weren't operational. They were fine before this episode.
- When I press the power door lock button on driver or passenger side nothing happens (usually it locks all four doors)
- Manaul locking is fine
- When I lock the car with key it doesn't lock all the door (it only locks the door I'm at - driver or passenger). This is supposed to lock all doors too.
I looked at the interior fuse box on Passenger side and the door locks fuse looks ok (#12). I also swapped it with passenger side power window fuse and the window still worked so I guess it's fine. what I can look at next? I read the the actuator might be a problem (I don't know what it is but I'm willing to give it a shot). Looking at Honda Manual looks like there are multiple actuators (one per door I think) and it doesn't feel like everything would conk off together.
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Bought a 98 last week and noticed an issue a couple of days ago. The car seems to be leaking power steering fluid from right in front of passenger front tire. Looks like it's coming down from somewhere behind the bumper, just not sure what line are over there. I had to replace one of the clamps on the line below the ps bottle and it seemed to be fine for 2 days.
The weird part is that it doesn't seem steady. I had the car parked in one spot for an hour the first time I noticed the problem and the wet spot was about a foot in diameter. But then I drove the car last night and left it parked in the driveway for hours and nothing. This morning when I was leaving there was a puddle about 4" in diameter.
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I have a 1998 1.8T Passat, Manual, with a P0422 DTC which always comes back after resetting. I don't have a Ross Tech since I own an older Mac. I have also sensed a more than usual odor from the exhaust and I have had a very noticeable loss in power at times.
The mechanic took a look at it and said that the cat was rattling and possibly partially plugging the exhaust system. He has ordered a new one for me - it will be here in couple of days. About 15 mins after I drove away from the shop (check engine light still on), I was accelerating away from the light and I felt a gentle jerk in the car and the power and acceleration and power that we all love in the 1.8T came totally back. It feels like a new car again. You really don't realize what you had missing until it comes back.
Does this make sense? Is this consistent with a the "plugging/unplugging" of an exhaust system by a bad cat? I just want to make sure the mechanic is doing the right thing.
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Just bought a passat but there is no power to the passenger door?
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My 1999 Passat has the common "power window goes up, but won't go down" problem in the right rear door. I followed the advice in this forum and re-inserted the plastic pin. A few weeks later it popped out. I re-inserted it again this time with some glue. It held for a few months before popping out again. I bought a new pin from the dealer but the new pin fits so tight it is impossible to insert it into the hole at the base of the window. Maybe I don't have enough experience jamming things into tight holes, but I suspect there is a special trick needed to insert the pin. I can see why the old pin kept popping out since it wasn't tight enough to keep it secure. How to Insert brand new Plastic Pin in Regulator?
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I brought a 99 Passat V6 with 46k miles and the car is now having problems with the driverside power door lock. I hit the remote to unlock the car but the door wont open. After several attempt, im able to open the door.
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Ok, wifey went to pull out of garage the other day (Tues.) and after putting car in gear, boom it went dead. She started it again and after 2 seconds of sputtering boom dead again. Tried it when I got home and spun over fine, but no fire. screamed fuel pump to me, but I did all the little things first, Fuses #7 and #26 or 28 or something like that, both were good. So I proceeded to check voltage at the pump (It is NOT under the back seat as alot of people told me..) it is under the passengers side mat in the back.
I checked the voltages when my wife was cranking the engine and it was 12.5 volts. When the key is just "on" the volts were 3.5... I went ahead and pulled the pump, not hard - just I had never done it / pumped 12 gallons of gas out.... Tested the pump connected straight to a battery with jumpers (6'+), and nada the pump didn't do any thing. reversed the polarity and it clicked, reversed it again and clicked again, after the 4th time it went to buzzing. I put it back in and nada.
Pump would work sometimes when it was laying on its side. Good enough for me, new pump ordered. New pump installed and cranked it over, nada. Cranked it over again and sputter sputter - vrooooom! Yea! fixed. Well sorta... Read on. Car started up immediately after shutting it off when testing - turned car over to wifey (after flushing brakes and replacing front pads with those niffty green ones...)
OK here is the point to this diatribe: Car's fuel pump isn't firing with the switch "on". it is pumping when the key is switched to "start", and it runs when the car is started. So you have to crank the engine to "prime" the fuel rail. The second time you crank it, it fires right up. Car accelerates well after started but the double cranking cannot be good on the engine's starter. The fuel drain happens sometime after the car has sat for 15+ minutes. If you shut the car off, then wait up to 15 minutes (all I have had time to sit still and check) the car will fire right off. I just don't know what to check now. Could the relay be bad?
I do not hear any humming from the back when the door is opened. What triggers the pump when the door is opened the CCM? It didn't do this before the car quit, always started with a second or two of cranking...
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I have a 2003 Passat 1.8T Wagon.
My passenger side, front window and lock stopped working. Once I cranked the AC and the car cooled a bit, the lock and window would work again.
Now, they have stopped working completely.
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I have intermittent power problems with the drivers side rear door. The lock, window and even the light under the door stop working. I know that it is a connection problem but wanted locating where connectors are. If I jiggle the wires going through the door it seems to sometimes connect and work. It seems that the connection problem is not in the door itself but somewhere in the car. Is there any connectors in the pillar or somewhere else and what is the best way to get it apart to work on the connections.
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So I have an issue over the last couple weeks, when I open the driver's door the power steps extend, and anywhere from 10 seconds to a minute later the step will retract like I closed the door. I didn't notice this the first time so the first step out of the truck caught me off guard. Now I pay attention to see it is extended before I get out.
So at first I thought it was a step issue, like it wasn't getting a consistent signal that the door was open, but I noticed yesterday when I had the door open, truck running, and radio on it all of a sudden retracted. I shut the truck off and got out but the radio kept playing because the truck thought the door was closed even though it was wide open. I closed the door and opened it and the radio shut off and the step extended and retracted like it should.
So last night I left the door open, truck off, no key in it. Over a period of 5 minutes, the step extended and retracted 8 times. My issue is only with the drivers door, the back doors and passenger doors don't appear to have an issue.
Where is the switch for the door? I think that would be the best place to start in replacing that.
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My newly purchased 1999 b5 passat wont lock/unlock with the key. The key does nothing and i dont have the flip key, i want to get a new flip key from the dealer but i am unsure if they can code it to my car if the lock dosent work i took the door panel off but didnt want to take off the inner metal skin to figure it out.
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I'm having some problems with the power windows and locks. The passenger side window only works when it wants to. The power lock on the same door will not lock unless I push it down. And the lights that are on the switches don't work.
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I'm unable to open my trunk door with the remote, using the key, or with the switch on the drivers side door. I am also pretty sure it is not frozen shut. Will I need to switch out the complete latch assembly or just need to wd-40 something? This is for a 2000 Passat 1.8T Sedan.
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So on my 2001 passat v6 the trunk wont open with the switch on the driver door for some reason and it seems the previous owner wanted to fix it and instead messed up and now the rear driver side door wont open even when its "unlocked".
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My drivers side window slide (crashed, but didn't break) into the door panel. When I try to put the window up, I hear clicking noises. All other windows work fine.
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The door ejar light stays on, on my moms 02 passat. I checked the latch to see if it opens and closes all the way, the light is still on when the door is closed all the way (it sits flush with the rear door) and there is a small whistle once in a while when driving. and sometimes, she says, the luggage compartment light comes on like the trunk is open but its closed.
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Got 98 PA with near 300k. A few months ago the rear passenger door would sometimes not unlock with either the switch or manual latch. Gradually got worse. Then the rear door lock on the drivers side did the same thing. Now I am stuck with both rear doors locked.
The electric switch does make a clicking sound at the door, but does not move the lock enough. I cannot force the manual latch back far enough to unlock the door. How to attack this problem and make it a 4 door car again?
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