Passat (B5) :: 1998 - Fuel Door Not Opening
Oct 8, 2010
So, last night I buy this 1998 Passat; good deal high miles but in great shape. I look around the car today and noticed that the carpet in the trunk on the side of the fuel door is disheveled. I don't think much of it until I try to access the fuel cap, then I reach in my hand and manually pop the door - so for those that want a manual way to release the door, there you have it, don't resort to screw drivers and such.
Now, I take the release mechanism off and test it with a 12volt battery - works fine. OK, so test the power going to the trunk - 4.4 volts, hmmm? I then check the switch itself and the leads going in are 4.6 volts, again.
So the questions are these:
1. What voltage should I be getting to the switch?
2. Is there a fuse associated with this switch?
3. Where does the voltage originate from?
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Ok, wifey went to pull out of garage the other day (Tues.) and after putting car in gear, boom it went dead. She started it again and after 2 seconds of sputtering boom dead again. Tried it when I got home and spun over fine, but no fire. screamed fuel pump to me, but I did all the little things first, Fuses #7 and #26 or 28 or something like that, both were good. So I proceeded to check voltage at the pump (It is NOT under the back seat as alot of people told me..) it is under the passengers side mat in the back.
I checked the voltages when my wife was cranking the engine and it was 12.5 volts. When the key is just "on" the volts were 3.5... I went ahead and pulled the pump, not hard - just I had never done it / pumped 12 gallons of gas out.... Tested the pump connected straight to a battery with jumpers (6'+), and nada the pump didn't do any thing. reversed the polarity and it clicked, reversed it again and clicked again, after the 4th time it went to buzzing. I put it back in and nada.
Pump would work sometimes when it was laying on its side. Good enough for me, new pump ordered. New pump installed and cranked it over, nada. Cranked it over again and sputter sputter - vrooooom! Yea! fixed. Well sorta... Read on. Car started up immediately after shutting it off when testing - turned car over to wifey (after flushing brakes and replacing front pads with those niffty green ones...)
OK here is the point to this diatribe: Car's fuel pump isn't firing with the switch "on". it is pumping when the key is switched to "start", and it runs when the car is started. So you have to crank the engine to "prime" the fuel rail. The second time you crank it, it fires right up. Car accelerates well after started but the double cranking cannot be good on the engine's starter. The fuel drain happens sometime after the car has sat for 15+ minutes. If you shut the car off, then wait up to 15 minutes (all I have had time to sit still and check) the car will fire right off. I just don't know what to check now. Could the relay be bad?
I do not hear any humming from the back when the door is opened. What triggers the pump when the door is opened the CCM? It didn't do this before the car quit, always started with a second or two of cranking...
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No more fuel pump priming sound upon opening door but the car still fires up without any problem. And yes it was after the car sat for a day or two without being started. I kind of got used to that sound and was like now that it is gone. Should I be worried my fuel pump is on the way out?
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My wife's 07 santa fe has started to develop an issue with the fuel door not always opening when the button is pressed. I haven't had to use the manual release yet but sometimes you have to hit the button 5-10 times before you hear the click and it opens. The vehicle just went off warranty (of course!) and since the nearest Hyundai dealer is 2 1/2 hours away it would be nice to work on it myself.
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I put my car in reverse and my door locks has some sort of spasm. The rear locks started twitching for several seconds then stopped.
Now both key fobs will only unlock the drive's side door. All locks work fine with the key.
Untimely demise on my remote unlock feature? Other threads have dealt with single door issues. We had that problem with the rear door on our 99 but this not the same issue since only one door will unlock remotely.
I know that my car battery needs to be replaced but it should not cause a problem. Also all fuses were checked and are ok. What to check.
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Remote will pop the lock up or down but cant open the door. Tried the keyhole with the same result. Cant open the the door from the inside either. Whats wrong?
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Lots of SAFETY concerns . At 927am Feb 15, 2105 while driving at 100 kph on the highway (25 min) my drivers door opened to the safety stop by itself!
While driving and turning the corner my radio occasionally changes radio stations and sometimes goes to MAX volume! You cannot turn it down or off!
Drives door whistles at 70kph took it to dealer 6 times no solution!
My 6 month old Passat TDI Highline is possessed!
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I am new to VW. I just purchased 2 new cars on Monday of this week. A 2012 Jetta SE for my wife and a 2012 Passat SE for me. We are loving both of these cars.
I have a question though. If my car has been locked for a little while, I unlock the car, open the door, I hear a noise inside the car as if an electronic motor is running. It only last for a second or 2 and I can't pinpoint the noise. It almost sounds like the power seat is moving but I don't think that is it. Hears that noise when you are entering your car?
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Friend with a 98 passat. the drivers side rear door functions don't work; the power window does not work and the power door lock does not operate in the door. the other 3 doors work fine- power windows and locks. I do not have the bentley for this car so I am working at a disadvantage; where does the power for the door come from? any kind of control box? relay? fuse?
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How to remove the rear door panel on my 1998 Passat. The window has come off the track, and I would like to try to get it back on.
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It seems mine does open every time you press the button. You can hear some kind of motor noise but it not as loud has the noise it does make when it does open. Its intermittent .
Do you get at it from the truck? What is the Part number for a 1998 Passat?
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I have a 1998 VW Passat: The windows go down by themselves
Door locks are clicking
Hazard lights are flashing
The car isnt always running while this is happening, key is not in the ignition. Car can be unlocked or locked and it still happens.
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I have a MK4 Jetta, I've owned it for about 1 year. I've never had a problem with the key, but in the last few days, it only opens the driver door? No matter how many times I hit the button it won't unlock the rest of the doors?
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I have seen a few thread about this on many VW sites. People with doors that when you unlock doors don't open from outside until you open from inside or you have to give the door a slight push closed and then it will click and open with 1 pull of outside handle. The problem is the door latch/striker whatever you wanna call it that mounts to the car body itself. It needs to be adjusted up or down just a bit. My pass door would not open with first pull then I read somewhere about people pushing door and then pulling on handle for it to open. So I went and played with latch. Moved it up about 3/16" and door works perfect.
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What is that weird sound when opening the door on my new 4 door Golf VII? It sounds like something is resetting itself. It sounds like it is supposed to be doing this. Doing this since day one. Just curious as to what is going on.
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New MY2013 SE w/Appearance Package purchased Oct. 2012. Earlier this year the fuel filler door would sometimes stick closed; progressively got worse to where it would not open. Replaced under warranty.
Now starting to stick again and I expect it to worsen. Going back in this week for a warranty replacement fuel filler door.
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So a friend just got a 99 Passat 1.8t and I'm trying to assist them with some issues they're having. First of all the fuel door wont open with the electronic button. I searched around and found people mentioning the fuse, but the fuse box in the dash doesn't have a fuse for the fuel door. Is it part of central convenience? The drivers window switch doesn't control the other windows and the doors don't automatically unlock, they must be unlocked individually.Is this all related? I just want to rule this out before pulling up the carpet to check the wiring.
Also when replacing the drivers turn signal the tab that connects to the spring clip snapped off. Replace only these or is a whole new assembly required?
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2001 Wagon : My fuel door opener is sporadic. I put a meter on the plug at the solenoid and I get 12V(ish) when I push the fuel door button. I took the solenoid off and connected it straight to a battery and it moves.
So I am thinking that it is just not getting enough power (current). I wanted to jump the switch, but it has four wires and I have no manual or anything like that. What the four wires do at the switch? There is only two at the solenoid....
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I stored my Camry over the winter, and it didn't do this before being stored.
Whenever I drive the car, park, remove the key, then open the door, it makes a single "ding" sound then stops. This has happened every time that I can remember.
Is this a warning sound for something? The tires are all filled, the bulbs are all fine... Very confused. The headlights have been in the "Auto" and "DRL Off" positions with no change in the chime, I think.
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Noticed a noise that begins upon opening the passenger door? It lasts for about ten seconds then stops. Is it by chance a battery ventilation fan or something related? Just curious.
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My 2011 Prius apparently had a broken lock actuator on the driver's door, and knowing that the dealer would charge me over $500 for installation of a new actuator, I decided to order a new $5 motor off of ebay, and change the little motor inside the actuator myself. Everything was going fine until I put everything back together, and gave it a try. Now my door won't unlock at all. All of the other doors work fine. I've tried the little key from the keyfob, and turning it kinda feels mushy. My guess is that something is wrong with my re-installation of the cables.
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