So i got a 98 passat sedan used and was told it read a p0411 code. The person at autozone told him it was a cam sensor. The sensor was replaced. I know now from the manual that codes reads for sec. Air injection system , incorrect flow. It could be the vacuum lines. Now lets say it is the vacuum lines. Their is a misfire on cylinders 1-3.
View 4 RepliesI have this whistling noise that developed after re installing my stock airbox. Seems to have just started right after installation. Cant seem to pinpoint what is going on. I also had a error code come u p(p0411). 1.8t b5.5 passat ...
View 2 RepliesI am getting P0355 error code and potential misfire codes on all cylinders. Engine light and VSC stays on now. Idle is unstable and power is a little jerky at times. I bought a Denso direct ignition coil to replace, however, Cyl 5 looks difficult to access.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2005 Jetta 1.8t and the thing will not start! The battery is fine, and has been recharged 100%. The fuel pump is pumping. It cranks all day, but just won't start. The only error code i'm getting is a P0411 which I understand is a leak in the vacuum system somewhere.
View 5 RepliesAlright so my car is popping up 4 codes.
P0411 - Secondary Air Injection System Incorrect Flow Detected
P0300 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0302 - Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
P0303 - Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected
Vehicle: 1999.5 VW Jetta MK4 2.0L GLS (AEG)
The P0411 code I have had for a while now and I been lacking to fix it. I pretty sure I can get this fixed but it doesn't cause problems so I haven't paid to much attention to it. Anyways, the other day I noticed a puddle of coolant under my car so after checking it out, the water pump was leaking so I bought a new one and replaced the old one. However, during the replacement process I had to remove the timing belt and I accidentally turned the top pulley about 1 notch and didn't notice at the time. After putting everything back on, I turned my car on and the engine sound a bit weak so I ran for about 10 minutes around a couple blocks.
I instantly noticed that the car had no power and it took me a long time to speed up. When I got back, I plugged in my scanner and I only had the same P0411 code and nothing else. After carefully reviewing the camera I had recording during the water pump replacement, I notice I had turned the top pulley a bit so I went ahead and removed the timing belt, readjusted it, and it worked! I was excited that the car was working fine again. Soon after, I headed out to take a drive and noticed after 60MPH the car didn't have much power. The car still accelerates after 60MPH, but extremely slow. As soon as I arrived back home, I plugged in my scanner and that is where I seen the 4 codes. Now my question is what could have caused this? Could I have damaged something when I ran my car with the incorrect timing?
Things I have done so far:
-I checked to see if I left anything unplugged.
-I checked for any vacuum leaks
-I checked my oxygen sensors so see if I was running rich/lean
Things I will do after work today:
-Check the spark plugs
-Check spark plug cable for damage
Whenever P0411 triggers for me, it is very late into driving (i.e. like 30 minutes into the freeway type of situation) where the engine has already hit optimal temperature. I've gone 1000 miles after reset before it triggers. Sometimes 200 or so miles, but it never triggers quickly after a reset. I'm unsure if it matters, but the VR6 does have a cold air intake (and I do have the breather hose connected & maf correctly connected). I'm pointing it out because p0411 became an issue about 500 miles after I had installed the cold air intake.
View 6 Replies98 Taurus, 6cyl, 3.0L OHV, 184K miles. Check engine light is on and code reads "P0411 - secondary air injection system - incorrect flow". This is my son's hand me down car and has a rather large exhaust leak that I plan on fixing. Could this code be related ?? I found out that the CEL has been on for quite sometime now and the car is due for emissions testing (state inspection) in October.
View 3 RepliesI bought my first VW about 3 months ago (so excited!) It's a 2003 Passat, 5 spd, 1.8t. I've had one thing happen so far (until yesterday). On 4 separate occasions when I'd go to start it, it would crank for a few seconds before it would start. Then once it was running the EPC light would turn on. It seemed to be running normally but I turned it off and restarted it and it started normally and the light extinguished (the first three times). The last time (about a week and a half ago) it kept doing it each time I started it, and upon starting probably the 4th time in a row the MIL came on. I drove it about a mile, turned it off for a few minutes, then turned it back on and it started normally with no malfunction lights on. It's been normal since then. Until yesterday...
Yesterday as I'm accelerating from a stop light (I think I was in 3rd) all of the sudden the engine started running really rough and the MIL came on. I turned around and drove about 2 miles back to where I started at about 20mph. The MIL would be steady while coasting and flash while pressing the accelerator. I got a hold of a diagnostic computer and it came up with 3 codes...
1) P0322 Ignition/Dist Engine Speed Input Circuit No Signal
2) P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
3) P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected PENDING
My wife and I received her father's 2002 F150 4.2 5 speed 2 wheel drive truck after his passing. He purchased new plug wires and wanted to replace them. So, this weekend I put in new plugs, plug wires, changed the air filter, and changed the oil and filter. Started up and ran really rough. Threw my code reader on after taking it around the block and found the following codes...
P0316 Misfire detected in first 1000 revs,
P0302 Cylinder 2 misfire,
P0305 Cylinder 5 misfire,
P0306 Cylinder 6 misfire.
New plugs were Motorcraft plugs, but had skinnier center compared to the ones that came out of truck.
Where do I start? What do I do? I am really confused as I have changed plugs and wires before and always had vehicle run better or same as before change.
Getting error code p0302, misfire in 2, pulled the plug and had oil on the treads and on the lower part. My guess is the valve cover gasket, but I'm not 100 percent sure.
View 18 RepliesI was driving along and the engine started missing really bad. The whole car was bouncing around. At first I thought I had a flat, but when I stopped I noticed it was the engine. I checked the error codes and got 16684 and 16686 --- Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire.
I had a problem recently with the vacuum hose broken and was causing an error code. Replace the hoses and it has been fine. Checked to make sure that the hoses were secure and they are fine. Doesn't seem to me to be related. So many problems for a car with 57,500 miles
2002 Passat 1.8T
Backstory. The P0411 code shes had for quite some time. I think probably 4 years maybe. Just never did anything about it because I guess they are expensive to fix. Thats the SAIP and combi valve correct? Anyway to remove all the emissions stuff and get the codes deleted?
So, about 3 weeks ago, maybe a little longer i cleaned her engine bay, replaced a few vacuum lines because the shop she took it to last year did a terrible job. Mind you, they did a head gasket, timing belt and some other minor things while they were in there. And they couldn't take the time you run new vacuum lines, since they just cut the originals and used a bunch of t fittings to "solve" the problem.
Anyway, i replaced the lines and it seemed to run better at idle, still had a little mis at idle but ran smooth at speed. I also did an oil change, put some fuel injector cleaner in it, put some seafoam in the oil, and cleaned the engine bay thoroughly. I did it properly and took all the plastics off, cleaned them, scrubbed the bay and used an air hose to get rid of the excess water. Left in a nice state. Ran smoother, looked better, so on and so forth.
Fast forward to last week, and she mentions to me her car isnt running right. Its sputtering, hesitates, running rough, exhaust is puttering, and it used up a lot of gas. She parked it for a few days, and i came down to look at it. Mind you, i don't have a code reader. So I looked at it blindly thinking it had an ignition issue. Nothing could have changed that quick since i looked at it.
So, today we got one coil(just in case ones bad), and 4 new plugs (Autolite Iridiums). Replaced and gaped the plugs to .030, torqued to 23 ft/lbs and started the car. Seemed to run a bit better, but subsided quickly. I then pulled each coil harness plug to make sure it would misfire on each cylinder and it did. So, new plugs and the coils checked out. Time to get its codes read.
Took it to the Pepboys and the codes it came back with were the P0011, P300, P0301-3. Cleared the codes and they came back nearly immediately. I had the dreaded P0011 code. The misfire codes im guessing were from the coils being pulled on each one, and also due to the P0011. Now i read a lot of threads about the P0011 and how its usually not the camshaft position sensor. However, i pulled the plug on that while the car was running and nothing changed. So i thought it could be the CPS. Changed that out and still nothing.....
this is the engine code we got when we checked it out
it also says air injection problem...
what's wrong here?
i assume its something with the vaccum lines?
I took my car to my previous shop for a P0325, Knock Sensor Circuit Malfunction. They wanted nearly $500 to fix it. My new shop said that I just needed some engine treatment and the code went away for a week and a half, but it came back yesterday, and my engine ran a little rough.
I heard what sounded like a very rough engine and it was my car. The technician came in saying that I was only running on two cylinders, but that sounds like far worse of a problem than I had been experiencing. They say that I need a $266.80 valve adjustment, which is all labor, but the total is $300 more than that:
Engine Light diagnostic: $44.99 Shop Fee: 35.00 Tune up package Remove and replace spark plugs: 60.03 Additional access time - remove: 64.20 and replace spark plugs: NGK Spark Plugx4: 9.96 Adjust Valve Clearance: 266.80 Pepguard Limited Extended Labor: 58.65 Warranty BWD Custom fit ignition set: 36.39
Parts: 46.35 Labor: 436.02 Other: 93.65 Tax: 6.55 Total: 582.57
Of course, my roommate, who is upset that I am not continually pouring fluids into leaky power steering and AC systems butted in and said the entire thing is preposterous. Problems with cylinder firing are invariably the result of bad spark plugs andor wires.
Well, they say that I need to replace those, which cost $46.35, the least expensive entry in the entire estimate. They just want to charge $124.23 to replace them.
Why don't I replace them myself and see if that fixes my problems?
They say that if the valve clearance adjustment does not fix the problem then I need new cylinders and valves.
Regretfully, I have a "service plan:""Engine: All internally lubricated parts contained within the engine block, cylinder head(s) or rotary engine housing(s); oil pump; timing belt or chain, timing gears and timing tensioners; water pump; engine block, cylinder barrels, engine head(s), rotor housing(s) if damaged by the failure of an internally lubricated part. Dipstick and tube; harmonic balancer; oil pan; timing chain cover."
I cannot imagine that it would cover a valve clearance adjustment and they would only cover cylinders and valves "if damaged by the failure of an internally lubricated part."
So, ride my bike eight miles tomorrow, replace the spark plugs and wires, and hope that it is enough?
I have a 2002 1.8T with about 75k miles which makes a harsh rhythmic sound at idle after about 30 minutes of driving. If I tap the accelerometer to increase the rpm and release it goes away and is silent. Recently it also seems to be making the same sound when it starts but goes away as soon as I drive. The sound seems to be coming from the front lower right (passenger side).
I have changed the timing belt about 18 months ago (along with the water pump, tensioner, etc. using an ECS tuning kit) and it ran fine (seemed even smoother than before) but it had a small engine oil leak which my mechanic fixed. I think this sound started after he repaired the leak. I've left the car with him for a week and he just called and said it he couldn't figure it out but it could be an oil pressure problem but I have not had any issues with an oil pressure light.
I have had issues with the P0411 code over the same and have replaced both the secondary air pump and the combi valve but the code just reappeared and my mechanic says he has checked the entire system again and can't figure out what is causing the problem. Not sure if the two can be related but just thought I would add that. The car runs fine otherwise and I have always used synthetic and the large oil filter but I am beginning to think this could be a sludge issue (the noise).
What to do Misfire Error all cylinders also coil code P0356 . It is 2006 Avalon Ltd with 37,000 miles always maintained and all recalls completed. Is there something I missed or is this for real or could there be a common problem that is causing all the errors. Car idles ok and no problem driving below 60 mph anything over and you can fell a shutter like it will lose power.
View 14 RepliesRandom multiple cylinder misfire according to auto scanner report on a 2002 Passat 1.8L? I have recently changed all belts including the timing toothed belt. I have had this very same problem prior to changing all belts on this car. Mileage is 111,000 ....
View 2 RepliesHow it all got started: [URL] .... Replaced Check Valve (06A 133 528 D/A) today, car is still idling rough, flashing CEL but it's solid/no CEL when the car is moving.
What I have done so far:
1. Replaced Turbo Inlet Pipe (Cracked at one corner)
2. Replaced D.V. (Original was fine)
4. Did Smoke Test, No Vacuum Leak
3. Replace Check Valve (06A 133 528 D/A) Above The Intake Manifold
4. Cleaned Throttle Body and All Pipes under Intake Manifold
Codes keep reappearing:
17705 - Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve (check D.V.!)
P1297 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded
And All Cylinders Misfire
Car idles fine when I squeeze this hose marked in green : [URL] ....
Something I noticed before and I think it's still doing it, there is weird noise every time I shift to reverse or drive, It sounds like when you just open drivers door.
Here's the link to the sound clip [URL] .....
I have 2000 b5 passat with 150k on it. I've had the problem of a multiple misfire on cylinders 2 and 4. The last time it happened was about a month ago do I brought it to a vw dealership and had one of their mechanics and they told me I had a valve cover gasket leak and it was causing my coil pack to short out so they replaced my coil pack, plugs, and wires. They wanted way too much for the valve cover gasket leak so I decided to wait till I more money. The car ran great for a month or so then the misfires started happening again.
I made an appointment to get my valve covers replaced a they're getting replaced right this minute but the misfires are coming and going. One day the car runs great and the next day it's misfiring like crazy an shuddering bad. It only seems to happen when it rains or is wet outside.
I went and looked at an 03 Passat 1.8T with 114k miles. I like the car and the price but the CEL is on, returning random misfire on each cylinder with a standard (non VW) scanner. There are no other codes. The car runs beautifully until it idles low with the car stopped or stopping; then you can feel it missing.
The coil packs and controller arms were recently replaced. The timing belt was replaced at 100k. The spark plugs and wires have not been replaced. I don't know whether the coil packs are stock or not, should I ask? The code can be cleared but then it comes back (I'm not sure how long it takes; I could ask).
I've collected this list of possible things to check, based on this useful previous post:
1. Oil overfill.
2. Downstream O2 sensor.
3. Spark plugs and cables.
4. Cam Shaft Adjuster? (maybe? there is no cam shaft code?)
5. Plugged fuel injectors?
6. Plugged catalytic converter.
7. Cam timing?
8. Induction cleaning?
Is this a good list? Are there possible troubleshooting steps not included here? Are some of these superfluous in my situation?
So the past few weeks my truck has been sputtering a lot. It seems to do it more so in low RPMS but when I lay on the throttle I didn't really notice it. I haven't had time to look into the issue but yesterday the issue got drastically worse and the CEL finally came on. Registered P0174 as well as a number of other codes including misfires on 7 of the 8 cylinders.
So far I have replaced the fuel filter. Spark plugs are only a few months old. I didnt think it would make sense for all of the coil packs to go out at once so I was thinking either a fuel issue or vacuum leak. Why would it only spit out P0174 (Banks 2) and not show P0171 (Banks 1) along with it? Fuel pump? Vacuum leak? Where should I start? 2002 F150 5.4L...