I have a 98 passat b5 turbo. All done to it is k&n filter and exhaust.... I put a boost gauge on it and i only get 3-4 psi... is this normal? it sounds very low. Also a weird thing is that the boost drops off at high rpm.
View 1 RepliesI'm have a 2011 6.7, 180,000. I have noticed a high pitched whistle, not an turbo whine, that disappears after the boost drops to less that the first mark on the gauge 5-10psi??? It stays consistent in tone, the mileage is good, power is good normal 6.7!!.
View 3 RepliesFor reasons I can't figure, the Temp gauge on the wife's Explorer is shooting from normal to high in just seconds. Then, it drops back to normal. When I looked at it this afternoon, I noted 2 things.
1) There was no sign of a coolant leak or overheating.
2) There wasn't ANY coolant in the tank!!!!!!!
The truck has evidently been running fine while this is going on.
I have a '98 b5 1.8t fwd Passat with 104k miles on it, that's not making any boost. I've pulled the turbo intake pipe off and spun the turbo and it spins smoothly and free of any shaft play. I pulled the vacuum line from the N75 to the wastegate and it's STILL not making 'any' boost, with the exception of about 1psi when flooring it, and 3-4 psi when the car shifts at WOT into a higher gear.
To me, without the n75 providing the can ANY pressure, it would lead me to believe that the wastegate is stuck open somehow. I'll put my wastegate-inflator-o-matic on it tonight and see if it moves at all when I provide pressure to the can -- but is there anything else I should be looking for or try? After that I would assume I'd need to pull the cat and feel in the exit of the turbo and feel if the wastegate is closing all the way...
I just got my 04 Passat chipped from APTuning 2 days ago and I was wondering if i need to tighten the gap on my spark plugs? Car runs wonderfully but in high boost it seems to sputter a bit, and i was hoping that tightening the gap was going to solve this issue. If i do have to tighten the gap, do i need to do this for each program? I have 4 programs on the chip (stock, 91 octane, 93 octane and 100 octane). I am sure that i'm going to keep it to 91 octane for 99% of the time.
View 1 RepliesSo i have a '06 2.0t 6spdman passat. I started getting this high pitch sound (like a boost leak) when under hard acceleration from second gear and up. I went to the dealer today and they replaced my PCV system, and told me that was the noise i was hearing. Pulled out of the dealer like half a block and same thing happened. Then the tech went with me heard the noise, went back put it on a lift. And proceeded to just rev the engine. They say its my Intake system, yet I have had it on the car for 2 and a half years. Could it possibly be the DV???
View 16 RepliesGot a 6spd Manual. Just got Unitronic stage 2 about a week ago. Now i got probs with "slipping" "clunks" and "bumps" when I really get on the gas pedal. If I'm just smooth with the gas, no problems but it seems the newly added torque is causing something to freaking slip and it's scaring me every time it happens. Not to mention if I ever need power real quick, I'm just going to be standing still probably clanking down the road trying to get whatever it is slipping to pick up. I don't want to believe it's my clutch because this was just replaced in July 2012. How the can I stop this because I'm not enjoying it and lost all respect for my car for the moment...
View 24 RepliesI lost boost, went from being chipped at 16psi to 7-8 with a check engine code and a high pitch noise. Now is the secondary air pump connected to the turbo in any way. It just happened and I'm working on getting the code read. Just curious if my pump is just bad, what im figuring.
View 1 RepliesI own a 2006 B6 and I'm just ticking down the list of common repairs... The last series started with boost lost anytime the car was pulling a steep hill or high acceleration. Eventually I lost boost altogether. I replaced the PCV valve and got back a little power but still no boost. This last weekend I replaced the DV valve. The old one was visually shot. The new one is the latest revision of that valve. Now, the boost will kick in, and cut out, kick in, cut out, in a rapid cycle during any acceleration. I double checked that it was installed and tightened (stripped the bolt heads) and reseated the electrical connection. I'm still getting the rough on/off of the turbo. If I slowly increase the acceleration it will act better, but that isn't a sure thing. I love the car, but I'm about to reach the point of pushing it off a cliff.
View 3 Replies'01 A6 2.7T 95k....Not boosting as high as normal...the check engine light came on the other day, P1136 code said engine was running lean. I found a small vacuum hose leak near wastegate and fixed it today (CEL is still on though). Stock boost is normally around 8-9 psi, but I am only getting 6-7 psi. Also, the boost seems to climb more slowly than it has been, and it occasionally goes into limp mode (only 3-4 psi). The turbos were replaced about a year ago with all new blue hoses. There aren't any other symptoms, no weird noises.
View 1 RepliesMy mk4 golf 1.8t aum has intermittent boost it boosts strong then just drops off ....
View 8 RepliesDon't know if I'm experiencing the dreaded limp mode or not. It seems that SOMETIMES while just digging thru the gears 1-2-3, not hard, when I get to 3000 rpms it's like I'm taking my foot off the gas. Rpm drops from 3000 to 2500. It's like I'm losing boost or something. I have no mods and obviously, no boost gauge.
View 7 RepliesOn my monitor, when I really get on it, I see the boost come up nicely and then when it gets to about 22 -23 lbs, it drops to zero on my monitor display, but the engine does not seem to falter in anyway. Why or what I might do about it?
I find it very annoying and do not believe it should be doing so, thus figure it might be causing some other problems or so. ..? I hear others talking about seeing 24 and up boost being displayed... why not me?
The car is an 02 gti. I am having problems at full boost(17 psi) where the car starts to stutter, backfire, and eventually drops to 5 psi. Throttle up to 15 psi is always smooth and there is no hesitation or misfires. It's chipped but I am unaware of which software as it was already on the car when purchased.
What I've done:
Checked for any leaks - none
Cleaned maf
Replaced plugs(0.028) and coils which was needed anyways
Coil harnesses look good
Fuel filter changed
I've read about the n75 but I am not experiencing any surge issues that many have described. I do believe the car is running a little rich because I can smell some fumes but it is very light. Car fires up just fine and idles smoothly.
I'm running a catless dp with the "low boost" Revo stage 2 (For 95-98 octane fuel)..
I've noticed when I put in rubbish fuel, the car runs fine and can hear the turbo spooling and pssting..
When I put in Shell VPower Nitro+ (Standard UK good stuff), the check engine light comes on and performance drops. I tried REVO but they stonewalled me. Thinking of trying the higher boost map..
My car shakes a lot on high speeds and the other day i noticed that my passenger back tire is kind of tilted its not sitting on straight i tried to take it off and put it on again but it just doesn't sit on straight for some reason so i was wondering i have a 98 passat wagon 1.8t FWD... Do these cars need alignment in the back tires too or just the front ? Because someone had told me that the alignment could cause the back wheel to tilt is this true? Will alignment fix my problem ?
View 1 Replies2003 jetta gls 1.8t 5spd - gts stage 1 tune(gonzo stage 2)
tt 2-1/2" downpipe with high flow cat
turbo smart splitter valve(set to divert only)
turbo inlet pipe
homemade intake with k&n filter
stock n75 valve (f)
So in first through 3rd gear my car gets 20psi of boost then at 3,500 ish rpm smoothly starts to lower down to 15psi. but in forth and 5th gear the boost drops faster, enough so the diverter valve actually opens. then the boost will bounce up and down, around 15psi. the car still accelerates but with obvious power loss.
Is my diverter valve not "firm" enough? it is adjustable, so I've tightened it as much as it can. it doesn't seem to change anything. it came with spring spacers to make it tighter, but I haven't tried that yet.
Is it something with the tune? not enough fuel, need bigger injectors? The problem is only at about 100mph, so its not a big deal. I would like to get it straightened out if possible.
I have a 2011 F350 6.7 cclb 4wd dually. 212k ... I have the dtc p0284. The run good at idle and driving. I use it to pull a 40ft enclosed trailer. I have noticed that the boost gauge peaks at the half way mark and slowly drops half way down. I can feel my truck lose power when that happens. I also noticed that it runs alot better at night than the day. I have not modified anything except a s&b cold air intake. I have the #8injector replaced.
View 2 RepliesI've got a '98 F150.throwing codd 402, excessive flow EGR, also the oil pressure drops to absolute zero only when gear shifts but comes right back up. No knocking or other distress sounds in engine. I know I'm in need of an oil change. I already searched a bit and decided to swap out the DPFE sensor which I did purchase from the dealership. No code as of yet but what could that pressure drop be? Could a simple il change and filter fix that?
View 3 Replieshave a 98 rodeo, with a V6 & Auto trans. have an intermittent problem - as I am driving engine will occasionally drop to idle speed and then pick back up to driving speed. Engine keeps running smoothly, just at idle speed.
CEL does not come on / no codes
Replaced Throttle Position Sensor - and thought I had found the problem, but since it is so random, it just didn't happen again for 1 1/2 weeks.
I have a '98 Honda Civic with 230K miles on it. Last month, I suddenly saw few drops of coolant on my garage floor. I opened the hood and saw coolant splashed over the engine. I opened the coolant reservoir and it was empty. Surprisingly, the car never overheated and neither did the temp needle go up. I took the car to the mechanic (Honda shop) and they said that the radiator is leaking. I replaced the radiator and after driving for couple of weeks, the same issue re-occurred.
The coolant ran low in the reservoir and there was coolant splash over the engine. I took the car back to the shop and they said that the hose was not properly installed. They fixed it and said there is no sign of leak. I have been driving for a week now and check the coolant routinely. I have noticed that the coolant level has again dropped significantly. But, after the last fix, I do not see any visible sign of leak. There is no evidence of coolant anywhere under the hood. I am not sure if there is something else going on now. Is there something else I should check?