Passat (B5) :: 1998 - ABS Light On But No Codes Thrown
Nov 15, 2009
98 passat 1.8t has the abs light on and the exclamation point. Scanned it using vad. Nothing showed up in the scan. Also turbo whistles under load. And trans slips. Nothing showing up on vad.
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I have an 02 accent with 1.6 that has no reverse and throws P0732 and P0734. How to repair?
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I have a 1998 chevy 3500 2wd pickup with a 454 engine. The check engine light is on. I have had the codes read and they were for a MAF and MAP sensors. I have replaced both. The check engine light is still on saying that I have a bad MAF sensor. I replaced it again. The check engine light still is on. What else should I look at to fix this problem??
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I was looking at a 98' passat yesterday but the plastic engine cover was different than the one in my car (which has an AEB)... I looked into it a bit and appairently the AEB was used in 98-99 passats... Maybe the cover was changed at some point? Or is it not an AEB?
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I have a 1998 B5 passat when I purchased the car everything was fine shortly after the interior lights would not come on,but the lighting outside was fine. I immediately thought it was the switch so I purchased a new one from ECS tuning right out of the box same problem,but I discovered if wiggle the switch sometime it would come on. Thinking it was a short in the switch I purchased a switch directly from VW at almost four times the cost and right out of the box same issue.
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I recently sent for a reset my airbag module, yes my car was in a collision, I replaced passenger airbag(only 1 airbag deployed). And reconnected the module. Using the VAG COM, I scanned the airbag module, shows no fault codes, but i still have a light.. now I'm thinking seatbelts and sensors maybe the problem. Where the sensors for a 2005 passat passenger dash airbag are located.
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i just installed a electronic boost gauge in my 98 passat. I wired it to the headlight switch but now when i turn on my car.. about 10 seconds later the ABS light comes on and the brake light flashes. Why this is happening?
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I have a 2006 passat and the check engine light came on so I performed a scan, the results are below. fault codes... which ones would need to be repaired immediately?
VCDS Version: Release 805.1
Data version: 20080823
Tuesday,06,March,2012,18:12:35:26365
Chassis Type: 3C0
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 15 16 17 19 1C 25 42 44 46 52 53 56 62 65 72
VIN: WVWAK73C86P106340 Mileage: 107910km/67052miles
00-Steering Angle Sensor -- Status: OK 0000
01-Engine -- Status: Malfunction 0010
[Code] ....
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Check engine light came on yesterday evening. Advance read the codes as P0100 and P0171. The guy said something that it may be related to the mass air flow sensor. The car seems to run fine.
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Ok so we have yet again the engine light on...we did a test and we have the codes P2004 and P0642. What can it be the problem this time??? what can cause this codes and is it expensive to fix? We just fix the care a couple of weeks ago( codes P0507 and P0171) and we are sooo tired of having problems.
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I just bought a 2000 VW passat with 63k. I had it for a week and check engine light came on. 30 v engine ....
p0431 /16815 bank 1 below threshold??
p0421/16805 bank 2 below threshold??
Cat? or 02 sensors???
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The check engine light on my 1999 1.8T Passat is on. It started with a little miss right after startup. Then in neutral, after revving the engine to say 1,500 rpm and letting off the gas, it would nearly stall. I plugged in an OBDII analyzer and came up with codes P0102 MAF or VAF circuit low input and P0304, Cylinder #2 misfire. I replaced the spark plugs, as they were old anyway. Still the same symptoms. Then I replaced the mass air flow sensor.
The check engine light still went on after it was cleared, except this time it was P0302, Cylinder #2 misfire, P0102, P1613, Auxiliary inputs aux. outputs control, and P1426 Mfg. Control/auxiliary emission controls. Soon after, the car started running fine on it's own and I again cleared the codes.
Then a day later, the check engine light is on. This time, it is only the P1426 - Manufacturer control auxiliary emission controls. The Bentley manual calls it Tank Vent. Valve Open, which doesn't mean anything to me and the Bentley manual is of no luck. (The error code almost implies that it is the famous loose gas cap, but I have checked that - unless the gasket is bad). FYI: I have 99K miles on the car.
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I was just driving and the engine check light appeared. The screen says Emission workshop. its a 2001 B5 passat V6 Manual. I used a code reader and it read P1120 and P0154. Are these codes serious? Can I still drive around? What should I do?
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This morning I started my car and it was idling a little rough. The the Check Engine light began flashing - I immediately turned off the car and consulted this forum and my father the mechanic. After talking with my Dad and telling him that the car had sat for a week, he thought the issue was probably NOT the catalytic converter and thought it was probably related to the car sitting and possibly getting moisture in the gas. I started the car again (the roughness at idle seemed to have gone away) but the check engine light/malfunction indicator light (MIL) did not flash, it did come back on after a few seconds, but as a solid light . And as we've all read, it's OK to drive with a solid MIL.
I took the car over to Autozone and had the codes checked - P0300 (multiple cylinder miss fire) and P0301 (cylinder 1 misfire). I asked them to clear the codes. I has just put in new NGK spark plugs last month, so I didn't think it would be the plugs. I looked at a new coil pack for one of the cylinders. I decided to see if clearing the codes alone would work and drove home. No issues so far, no MIL, no rough idle, no hesitation (fingers crossed).
When I called the stearleship - they recommended I have the car towed, but would not speculate as to what the flashing MIL could be (catalytic converter or bad coil pack(s))...
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Basically it dies when thrown into drive. Idle is great, the reverse is great, neutral is great, drive is crappy.
If I let it sit for an hour or so, it will stay in drive without stalling, not for long though.
My MAP sensor connector is messed up I already know that but could it be causing my issue?
Also, I put antifreeze into my engine coolant reserve about 2 weeks ago, yesterday I checked it and it was just about empty. Any reason for that? I haven't noticed any leaks either.
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Lets start at the beginning. About two weeks ago my girlfriend got a check engine light and the car started missing( 98 Passat 1.8T, 5 speed). Checked obvious things like fuel delivery-good. Pulled coil packs and had no spark on #2 cyl. Investigated more and found one of the pins on the ign. control module was shorted. Felt pretty sure that was the problem since everything else checked out. Ordered a Huco installed it and that fixed the problem except the car seemed slow reprogramming to the new part. I disconnected the battery to clear the memory and that seemed to do the trick.
About 2 weeks later my GF is coming home and fortunately it died in front of the apartment. Checked everything again. Getting fuel, no wires shorted on ign. or fuel harness plus they all get power just no signal when checking with an LED tester. Ign. module was good also. Checked speed sensor for resistance per the book it was good. Tried a new Camshaft Pos. Sensor hoping that was the problem, no luck. I believe it must be the computer. I'm trying to get one from a salvage yard. I don't know if the old computer can be reprogrammed or not. Also was wondering if the dealer(where I really do not want to go) can test the computer somehow and tell me if it is bad or not(don't know if I would trust them anyway), just wanted to include that option.
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Looking for a diagram of how the rear bulb set should be filled on a 98 Passat Estate. ie: with what bulb types go where. etc.
I have big problems with my brake lights not working when the lights are turned on, then when I change bulbs about, they work but the rear lights do not come on etc, or one side does. All bulbs work, but not as they should together. I know I have a right mess of bulbs in the wrong place. The car is just new to me so trying to sort. I also have one empty bulb set on the outer side of each bulb holder unit and so wonder what this is for and if it is used.
Left side rear bulb unit on 98 passat estate...
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Car dumbie back again with another question.The diagnostic for my check engine light indicates numerous cold start misfire codes. The cylinders are OK. That was checked during the diagnostic.The fuel intake is carboned up. It is recommended that I clean the intake manifold. Does this mean cleaning the fuel injectors, the throttle body or both? 2006 Passat VW....
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I have a 2002 prius that threw a spark plug and loosened the coil pack. The mechanic just reinstalled the plug and tightened the coil pack and said it was fine. Why it would throw a spark plug?? It was running fine, no warning lights, i just heard an unusual slight noise and opened the hood to check it out, and notice the loose coil pack over the first spark plug
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So I bought my accent used a couple months ago. It is a 2007 SE 3dr 5spd manual. It ran nice during my test drive and the price was right so I bought it.
Now I'm wondering if there is any way to find out the service history on the car...at least the major one's (30k, 60k)?
I ask because recently the engine was idling a little rough and it threw a P0302 code so I changed the spark plugs and holy-cruddy-deposits-batman those things were black. Gapped the new ones and popped them in and its a noticeable difference. My CEL keeps coming on and throwing a P0496 code as well, virtually once every tank of gas. Its not the gas cap so my next step there is to check the PCSV and hoses.
With these little problems, it makes me wonder about any larger issues. I know the timing belt on these things is supposed to be replaced at 60k. Additionally I would be willing to bet that my ECM software is out of date. Would Hyundai have records for any of the big maintenance milestones since they are required for warranty work?
How much does it cost to have a dealer check your ECM software and update it if needed?
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I have a 2002 Toyota Echo. I just purchases a Creader V code scanner. My car is throwing a P0171 code. The light only comes on at idle or while going under 10 mph.
The data from the reader was:
Trouble Code: P0171
Fuel System sta B1 : CL, using HO2S
Calculated Load: 11.76%
Coolant Temp 188.59 degrees
The Freeze frame data was:
ST Fuel B1: -3.91%
LF Fuel B1: 36.7%
Engine speed: 795.5 RPM
Vehicle speed: 0 mph
Intake Air Temp: 82.4 degrees.
I went back today and ran live feed on the O2 sensors. I'm not sure what STF of O2S: STF means. That was another figure displayed on my code scanner.
The O2S S1 was reading between .04 and about .82. The graph looked pretty normal (I guess) in regards to going up and back down between 0 and 1. I don't know alot about mechanics, but I seen a youtube video of a graph showing it going up and down and what is normal. Mine did that on S1.
O2S S1: STF was: 3.89 and -1.57%
O2S: S2 was a different story. It was between like .58 and .66.
The O2S S2: STF didn't give me a value at all. It just said " --% ". The graph of this was slowly going up but in a small range. It started at like maybe .4 and would go up to say .5. The next wave would be like .45 to .55, then .50 to .60, then .58 to .66 etc. So it was not ranging just between 0 and 1. It had a very tight range that gradually increased upwards.
I built my own smoke machine before testing with the code scanner and I didn't get any smoke coming out of the car except for around the air filter housing where the lid meets the bottom portion. I don't know if it's because I had the air filter wrapped in plastic wrap. Can I have an air leak where the filter cartridge connects that would case a lean code P0171? Maybe I should go try to smoke test again. I did it about 3 weeks ago and I can't recall exactly where I had the smoke going into. I thought I disconnected the PVC hose from the brake booster and plugged it in there. I assume the smoke would get thru the whole system. It took about 2 min before the smoke came out of the filter housing.
The car only sets a lean code at idle or going less than 10mph and I'm coasting in a residential area.
I have an inspection coming up in May and need to get this thing fixed before that. I can't find any other air leak, but I wasn't sure a leak around the filter would cause this and I'm not sure the leak wasn't caused by the plastic wrap.
I'm thinking my only other prob could be fuel related. Fuel filter, fuel pump, clogged injector, or can my O2 sensor be bad and causing this? I've already replaced all spark plugs and coils as well as the PVC valve and cleaned the MAF sensor with the appropriate spray.
The car runs ok. The exhaust seems to smell RICH. Like Gas. I don't think my fuel economy is as good as it use to be. It has dropped from as hi as 42 mpg to between 38 and 40 if I'm lucky.
Back when I was having problems before and realized I had a bad coil, I had tried some injector cleaner. Why the codes were back then, but I had erased them and the car ran fine for about 2 months and the light came back.
My MAF sensor was .14 lbs when I was watching the live data above. I plugged my fuel pressure tester directly into the fuel line coming from the fuel tank and got a reading of between 42 and 44 lbs (car not running, just by trying to turn the engine over). I don't know if that is as accurate (or useful) as having the fuel pressure tester on the car and in line to allow the car to start up and run and watch the tester. I have to wait until my part comes do run the test that way.
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