Passat (B5) :: 1998 1.8 Auto Won't Crank Over / No Shifting
Jan 17, 2009
I have a 98 Passat 1.8 Auto. Last Saturday my wife drives the car and it cranks fine, but she called and said it wasn't shifting right. I didn't worry much because it has always shifted weird, but she said it would shift a time or two (she wasn't sure how many times) and then not shift. She got up to about 60 and no shifting. After a bit she said it seemed better. I went out to take it for a test drive and......it won't crank. Won't turn over at all; just a few clicks. Not sure if the no crank issue is related to the shifting problem, but I start narrowing down stuff.
No power to the solenoid when the key is turned to start (had to pull the freaking A/C compressor to check this!). Has power to the solenoid from the batt and I bumped it over quickly by jumping it across to make sure the starter is good. All good. The solenoid on the shifter is clicking as if it is working. Strange thing I noticed is it will come out of park "without" the brake pushed when the key is turned but not otherwise. Shifter stays locked when the key is in the off position. Cable is connected and appears to be working, I can hear it click in the ignition switch when I push the shifter button. Several relays click under the dash, but not sure if any of these control power going to the solenoid.
So......ignition switch? ECM?
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I have a 98 B5 passat 1.8t and the car wont crank at all.
I drove the car fine all day yesterday and when i got home from school at night and tried to start it nothing happened. The car wont crank at all.
When the key is on everything is fine. my radio works lights work power windows everything.. but when i try to start it nothing happens.
Also when i start my car the battery light will stay on and everything will be low volt in the car but as soon as i rev it up the light goes off and everything works properly. I know this is probably another problem but maybe it might have something to do with this!
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My 07 AT 2.0 has a weird problem - when auto downshifting after a long drive at highways speeds, the whole car thuds. This happens after driving about 20 miles or so at 60MPH+. 5 or 10 miles are not a problem.
What happens is that when it slips down into 2nd, it sounds like something jams (no grinding). The force/feeling is similar to running into something at a slow speed - like bumping a car while parking.
If I slip into Tip and downshift manually, it doesn't happen. Outside of this the car has 22K miles and drives great.
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Can any automatic transmission possibly be harmed by shifting from Neutral to Drive while rolling forward at around 30mph, or from Neutral to Reverse while rolling slowly (less than 5 mph) backward?I only ask because my new CRV makes a very slight sort of grinding sound when I do the N to D rolling shift, and the backward N to R rolling shift causes it to act as if it just stays in Neutral for several seconds, instead of promptly engaging Reverse. The manual of course says nothing about this. I thought all automatics were just fine with being shifted from Neutral to Drive or Reverse while moving, as long as you were headed in the right direction.
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The auto trans on my SL has been shifting hard and jerking lately, and the other night it wouldn't shift into 4th at all and I got a CEL code having to do with the transmission solenoid. So to my question; how hard is this solenoid to replace, and were is it located? Also, need to get part number? Additionally, I check the fluid every few weeks so I know that's good, and it seems to get worse (more jerky) when its hot.
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1999 Jetta MK4 with only 124k miles on it. Everything is fine with the car except when the car shifts from 2nd to 3rd it is jerky/violent/forceful everything else is good with car except check engine light is on but I don't really care about that and I'll go check with autozone to see what the code is. I am able to feather the gas when I know its going to shift and I can make the shift pretty smooth. My question to all the experts is does this mean that this tranny is on its last leg or does it still have a lot of life left in it. My old Cabriolet did it for years and never was a problem.
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I have a 2000 Ford Ranger 4X4 XLT with a 5R55E automatic transmission.
Coming out of a stop the truck jolts at about 20 mph as it shifts from 2nd to 3rd gear. It feels like it revs too high in 2nd gear, up to about 2400 rpm, and then shifts hard into third. It feels like the truck gets a gentle hit from behind.
Earlier in the week, the O/D light flashed. I took it immediately to an independent tranny shop who pulled the code for me: P7033, incorrect ratio in 3rd gear.
They cleared the code for me. In limited city and highway driving (less than 15 miles each trip) the O/D light has not flashed again. But the problem remains. I plan to take it back to the shop later next week.
What might cause this so that I might have a more informed conversation with the tranny mechanic?
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Had problem with downshifting and up shifting quickly on its own and then engine light came on. 24,400 mi. Code P0713 Trans Temp Sensor "A" Circuit Input. They replaced it in a few hours and we will see how it goes. Had also had a problem of acceleration by its self when we first bought it and the gas mileage not being to par. Of course they said they haven't heard of that and they did an update/flash and haven't had that problem again, also had a broke front axle.
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My 2003 Aviator kind of stutters when in auto between gears. Most prevalent from 3 to D when driving regular. If I shift manually and tach it to 4k there is no stutter/vibration. My engine light is on and pretty sure the catalytic converter need to be changed. All new NKG plugs and associated coils. Throttle body clean, 91+ fuel only. Could this me a tranny starting to fail or computer/senor related? No other codes than the bank-2 O2 sensor....
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was driving my 98 s10 2.2 auto shut it off wouldnt start found ign fuse blown replaced it blem again found the harness on manifold burnt i replaced all bad wires now wheni put fuse back in it tries to start even with key out turn key on replace fuse will start but keeps trying to start what did i do wrong or what to do
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We have a 2009 Matrix, 68000 miles. automatic transmission has a loud clunk when down shifting on a hill. Has only happened a few times and cant seem to make it happen. Am really concerned what this might be.
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My wifes 2001 Accent at slow speed seems to change into its gears ok. But when at normal driving speed, it seems to hang I believe between 3rd and 4th grar. If you let off the accelerator a little, it will change, kinda hard into gear.
Also, when decelerating, it seems to "surge" when going from 2nd to 1st and almost acts like it wants to die. this is an Automatic Transmission.
Things I have tried: replaced flex exhaust and reset a P0133 error code. Condition still exist after 100+ miles of driving. Tried cleaning MAP/MAF sensor, PCV valve. It will not showing any more codes or check engine light with this current condition. I am at a loss as where to go next for diagnostics. If I just had a code # to work off of....
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I test drove a Skoda Yeti 1.8TSI 4x4 DSG and noticed when driving at full acceleration while shifting through 1 to 2 it goes into the red, past the redline.
Then I decided to test it in my Tiguan 2.0TSI 4Motion 6-speed auto and it went past the redline into the red before it changed.
Now because it happened in 2 vw-group cars with 2 different transmissions it makes me think it is normal.
Tiguan_2.0TSI
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I read another blog on here about stratus not shifting and decided to ask someone about my limp mode problem. A few months ago I was driving uphill when it jerked before it got into limp mode. I thought maybe the hot weather caused it(it was 95 deg). I let it sit overnight. and the next day car was fine. for about 3-4 months. Now it got into limp mode only after it goes through all the gears once only. When i come to a stop it will go into limp again. Got a 0700 and 0760 codes. My speedometer works. tach works. Basically everything works as it should.
I decided to change the ATF and filter, both speed sensors and i get the same old codes after a drive around the block. I then decided to remove the neg terminal overnight. Next day I would have no signal at the data link port. When i removed the key from the ignition my dash lights for the mileage will stay on for another 3-4 seconds before disappearing. I checked the ground wires to the PCM and TCM which are good. Fuses and relays are also good. I even swapped some of them. Still no change. 1997 stratus 2.4 auto...
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What is making my auto transmission shift harshly on my 1998 Mercury Sable? I changed its fluid but it didn't work.
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I've been through this same scenario quite a few times before but I cannot narrow it down to the exact problem. I've got this 1998 Ranger that's maintained well, tune-ups, oil changes, and everything else maintenance wise. The past few months randomly driving anywhere from 200-300 miles every once and awhile it would hesitate taking off from a stop or accelerating after letting off the gas. It would throw up a P0171 code so I thought the fuel pump was bad. So I replaced with a new fuel pump assembly. That worked, fuel pressure is now within specs. 65-69psi. Still every 200-300 miles it would throw up a P0171 code, then a few weeks ago it kept coming up more frequently.
I found out it was a broken vacuum hose from the purge valve to the intake manifold tube so I replaced it. Now it doesn't come on anymore. But before I noticed that hose I assumed the mass air flow sensor was bad so I cleaned it with CRC Mass Air Flow cleaner. Since that time it's gotten worse and now stumbles and hesitates every time you stop and takeoff. Sometimes it even chokes the motor out with the a/c on and you come to a stop. I knew the ignition coil also causes the same issues so I checked them. The front coil pack had a burned electrode leading to number 4 cylinder intake side. I replaced the coil cleaned that end of the wire and it still is stumbling and hesitating. I tried the trick of unplugging the mass air flow sensor and driving to see if it was better. No change at all.
After I replaced the coil a few minutes ago I test drove it and stopped and then turned a corner and gave it full throttle with a/c on and it actually shut off. But still there is no check engine light and no codes present. What's going on? I looked at the back coil and didn't see any corroded terminals. It started happening all the time upon takeoff right after I cleaned the mass air flow. But when I unplugged the sensor and drove it around nothing changed at all. Is there something else to check? I had the timing belt changed last week and had the shop check to see if timing is good and they said it was right on. It still drive good you just have to tap the gas twice when you take off to overcome the stumbling.
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Only got a click when turning key, in Park or Neutral. Made sure I had >12.4V from battery. Jumped starter solenoid with a remote start switch across main power line to starter and the 's' post, crank pulley almost moved, but didn't rotate. Removed belt, all pulleys rotate, but could not budge the crank pulley with a short breaker bar/socket, rotating clockwise from front. Removed starter, that upper bolt is a super pain! Not even sure I'll get it back in. Jumped starter solenoid again on the bench using a battery and jumpers, not the best connections, starter hesitated little bit, but opened up fully a few times, so I'm thinking it's ok (even though the power line from the solenoid to starter motor needs re-taping). Tried rotating flywheel from starter hole, no good leverage point, but no movement. Before I re-install the starter, how much torque should I be putting on the front crank pulley? Some say it should move easy enough cause the starter isn't that powerful. Others say remove the spark plugs to reduce compression? This truck is new to me, so I unfortunately have no history.
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I have a 97 4runner Automatic that as your driving it hesitates between shifting its gears. Most prominently happens around 80km/hr shifting between gears.
Its a sort of soft sputtering/jerking motion momentarily. It does shift into the gear and does drive fine once its in the gear. My check engine light is on as well now....
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When taking off the 1-2 shift and the 2-3 shift the truck will go into a neutral state for 2-5 seconds. when this occurs, the rpms will rev since your foot is on the accelerator. Once you let off the accelerator the rpms come down and the gear will catch. I have had the truck in the shop a few times without any luck. part of the problem is no codes are thrown so the dealer has no clue what to look for. This is extremely dangerous when in my case i pull out on a 6 lane hwy with 55mph speed limit. Ford more or less said to pound salt until a code is thrown or until something else happens. this nearly caused a nasty wreck 2 weeks ago.
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1998 Explorer 4L 6Cyl 4WD 5 Speed Auto
This engine unexpectedly surges from idle up to as much as 3 or 4 thousand RPM. It can be frightening. The IAC valve was buzzing loudly so we changed it out a couple of times with wreckers parts. With the third replacement valve in there, it hasn't surged yet but we are very leery to drive it for fear of uncontrolled acceleration while in heavy traffic. Is this a known problem or recall with these vehicles. I think it is ridiculous that the design would allow such a dangerous condition!
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I have a 98 Explorer Eddie Bauer edition with electronic climate control w/ steering wheel temp and fan controls.
Just yesterday, I was running the a/c set at 74 degrees and it was working great as usual. Then suddenly the fan went from high speed to nothing. The auto control was still on, just the fan stopped blowing. After about a minute when the inside of the vehicle heated up some, the fan kicked back in on high speed. I tried to adjust the fan speed via the steering wheel switches and found that the fan only has high and off speeds.
What should I look for that would cause the fan speeds to stop working or only work on high?
1998 V6 4.0L
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