So my Passat won't start. Last night I went to turn it on, and half way through the start up sequence it quit. Now when I turn the key I get nothing. There's power to the headlights and everything, and the mechanic I've talked to said it's probably the battery anyways. When I do turn the key, you can hear the clicking under the hood, so I'm semi-optimistic that it's not the starter.
View 1 Replies1997 Ford F-150 4.2L V6... I got into my truck yesterday and went to turn it on. The motor cranked half way then quit. Now everyone time I attempt to turn it on all I hear is a click and nothing else. A friend of mine who is pretty good with cars took a look at it with me. He tested my starter with a volt meter and said everything seems fine. We proceeded and checked all fuses, non of which we found are blown.
We then focused on the starter solenoid. We were able to get the truck running by arcing the 2 lower big terminals. I purchased a new solenoid thinking that was the problem, however replacing it solved nothing. Same problem is still present.
I have now arc the terminals to get the truck started 2-3 times in order to get to a shop. They spent all day looking things over and are pointing the problem to a bad starter relay. (i thought the starter relay was actually the same thing as the starter solenoid) Anyways they told us they have looked over all the diagrams they have access to and cannot locate the location of the starter relay. (maybe becasue its the solenoid?..)
I went to start my 07 Subaru Outback 2.5i yesterday morning with both kiddos in the car and it seemed to begin to start and then just seemed to stop the starting sequence. When the key was in the ignition in the on position, the lights work, the radio works, everything thing besides the engine seems to work, BUT above the odometer there was an error reading "Er HC', and the temp gauge was as high as it would go on H but the car had not been run for over 24 hours at that point. The fan to the engine seems to be running also when in the on position which I do not remember happening normally, maybe it is always on when the engine is on but b/c the engine is not on I can now hear the fan?
Tried over and over again to start it but the engine never made another sound and every time the lights would turn on and the error message would appear over the odometer.I ran a scan for any engine problem codes but it said it was clear. We tried jumping the car, but the battery is fine (all lights come on, radio works etc). The car has never missed any maintenance and has always had its oil changed every 3000 to 3500 miles. The car has 62000 on it and just (in the last 1500 miles) had its 60000 mile tune up at the dealership.
We had the front two control arm bushings replaced at Les Schwab (b/c it was less then 1/2 the price of the dealer), they were cracked, but all the other stuff was normal and really they were changing fluids etc. at the dealer and didn't replace anything. Our car has never had any problems besides the control arm bushings just being replaced and now this. We had to have it towed to the dealership and it has been there now for over 24 hours and they have told us 'we have never seen this problem.
So those of you with bi-xenons know what i mean, when you start up your car it does that leveling sequence.
My car: 10 GOLF TDI 6MT
I put key in, turn it half way to everything comes on, clutch in cause its always parked in gear w/ hand brake on
so clutch in, I turn the key car starts up, as soon as i drop the hand brake lights come on, and they used to do:
LIGHT UP
Level Down
then would go out in opposite directions
then Level back UP to normal position.
Well today i noticed and just confirmed again when moving car after a wash, that my lights now:
Light UP,
Level Down
Level back UP,
it now skips above middle step
Why's that?
2003 F150 5.4l Super Crew. 40k miles. Current service.
About a year ago I ran out of gas on a hill, this is when my strange problem started. Since then I have ran out of gas at least two other times, but both times the tank was between 1/4 and 1/2 on the gauge and only took 8-10 gallons to fill up, so the tank was far from empty! Both times. after I put a gallon or two in, the truck started right up and ran fine. I have gone long trips and ran the tank down to near empty (light on not really empty) and the truck had no problems. But every now and then between 1/4 and 1/2 it just dies and will not start until I put a gallon or two in the tank.
So today, at about a half a tank, the truck dies. I call for the tow service and when the tow truck driver gets there I explain what has been going on. He jumps in the drivers seat and works his magic on the ignition. I don't know exactly what he did but he turned the key to on for like 10 seconds, removed the key, put it back in, turned it to AC.... and so on, obviously ran a clear code or something.... then he turns it over and it fires right up, this is without adding any fuel!
He said that there may have been an air bubble in the line when I ran out of gas before and the computer code needed to be cleared. Is the tow truck guy right? am i in the clear here or do i need to started checking fuel pressure, pumps, filters and so on?
So my truck felt gutless somtimes, wouldn't start Every couple days , and Fuel gauge stops at half tank won't show full, so I went n bought a new fuel pump..... Well shoot nothing changed . I guess my next move is pull the dash off n fix gauge? It used to be a reliable truck . Now Im not comfortable to let wife drive it . I also pulled the chip to see if that had to do with not starting, also theft light blinks normal. I'm going to get some connector grease n redo all of my wires to c if there's just connection issues.
View 6 RepliesCar drives excellent in dry weather, smooth, no hesitation. or misses. While driving in the rain, the car will start running "REAL" ruff and then will stall. I try to start it and the motor just turns over, sounds like no gas or not firing. I will keep trying and after about 6 times it will fire, start and quits, if lucky with a few more tries I can get it started and needs to rev up to 4,000, sometimes it will stay there with a miss or RPM works down and quits. When lucky I can nurse it home and then won't start for 3 days.
I have replaced Crankcase position sensor, (made shield for side at wheel well and shield on bottom), camshaft sensor, spark plugs and wires, had coil packs checked, checked plate that coil packs set on, cleaned battery posts, checked and pulled on wires to coil pack plate, none lose and had continuity, put silicone sealant at end of wires to protect from moisture and hold them in replace. Sprayed top of engine with silicone spray and flex seal. Even had intake manifold gasket replaced in case it was sucking in water. Replacing crankshaft position sensor did some good, it makes for faster starts.
Drove it last night, started fine. This morning she wouldn't start. Almost turns over but quits right before it would. Then a bunch of rapid clicks. Crank up the sound on the video to see what I mean. Got 46,800 miles.
View 7 RepliesI have a 1997 ford f150 V-6 4.2. My son was driving the truck on the expressway and it quit running. The toe truck has delivered the truck back to my house. The engine turns over but will not start. I shot gas into the engine with a spray bottle and the engine still would not start. Was going to check the coil for spark next. What to check first. Was thinking the problem could be the modulator or coil.
View 10 RepliesI have a misfire on cyl 3, what is the firing sequence, changed plugs which didn't solve problem... so I'm going to try coil pack.
View 8 RepliesWhat is the proper sequence to rotate the stock wheels/tires? Is it front to back only on the same side or does it need to be crossed front to back?
View 6 RepliesThis 2000 Volvo S40 19T wont start. New Battery Starter bench tested (Good) New alternator (Bad diode) Cleaned connections on battery, starter, and alt. The car cranks for half a second, just enough to move the timing belt about an inch or two. But to get it to do this, you have to turn the key from positions 1 to 3 quickly. If you sit in position 2 for any amount of time, then position 2 has no effect on the engine at all.
View 4 RepliesEvery 6 weeks my car, a 2007 Chevrolet Cobalt, won't start. Key goes in half way and won't go any further. Key won't come out and it's totally dead. Jump start it and it's good for another 6 weeks or so. What could be causing this?
View 2 RepliesI have 1976 F250 with a 352 That will start and run for about half a second and then die. If I give it gas as soon as it fires up it sputters HARD and then dies after a total of about one to one and a half seconds. Is it getting to much fuel?
View 2 RepliesMy car just started over heating and I checked the fans and they are not running. I'm new to the VW family and although I love the way this car drives I've been baptized with quite a few problems.
View 2 RepliesMy driver door lock is broken, key won't turn and the outside handle is bust too. So today I took the trim off to have a look at what is going on. I put it all back together (had to unplug all the door electrics, put them back together no problem), and saw that the hazard lights are all glowing, not flashing. I started the car, turned it off, went inside to google the hazard lights.
When I came back and tried to start it again, it wouldn't start. The stereo said "SAFE" and the brake system warning light - red (!) - is on and beeps 3 times. I locked and unlocked the central locking with the key beeper, tried to start the car again, this time no "SAFE" on the stereo, but still the beeping and the no starting and the hazards glowing... Just bought the car a couple of weeks ago.
I have a meticulously cared for 2003 Camry. When I got it a year ago it stalled at startup about 10% of the time, and it has increased to almost 50%. The engine light is on and off, but seems to have no bearing, nor does air or engine temperature. If I keep my foot on the gas even when stopped, I can drive it. Sometimes it warms up to idle, sometimes not. It stalls usually at start and always when going slow or stopping. Sometimes it succeeds in idling, sometimes it fails, but never something in between. Either it idles right at 1000rpm, or at 0.
Mechanic ran it through the computer, drove it around, tried it a bunch of times and found nothing.
The front intermittent wipers on my 2004 hyundai accent will start then stop half way,continue all the way in the same direction then return half way and finally park. I have replaced the wiper stork switch and wiper relay [blue one in engine bay fuse box]. What controls the intermittent function? is it the bcm? and where's located?. I also have 2000 accent and its fitted with an intermittent wiper relay p/n95240-33000. The '04 is not fitted with one. I have contacted Hyundai and they weren't support.
View 1 RepliesSometimes when I start my car it makes a weird cranking/grinding noise for half a second. The closest thing I have to engine mods are my TWM short shifter, and my borla axle back exhaust.
The noise only happens after my car has been sitting there, parked for a few hours. So to bring it to Toyota/mechanic would be nearly impossible to replicate, unless I left it there for a while. And even then, the noise only happens sometimes.
Yes I'm pressing my clutch pedal all the way down. No I am not holding the key too long when starting the car. What it might be?
I've had this checked out twice by the dealer and once by another mechanic and they say there's nothing wrong ....
First symptom: the heater will start out hot but about a half-hour into my trip into work it significantly cools down. I'm not sure if it's starting out too hot and cooling down appropriately but I think not ... it gets downright cool at 70 degrees.
Second symptom: I sometimes smell coolant in the passenger compartment, usually while I'm operating the heater. However, in these last bitter cold days I've smelled it when I get into my cold car in the garage in the morning.
Third symptom: I have a film on the inside of my windshield on the lower one-sixth or so ... it gets very cloudy, particularly when I circulate air to the windshield or turn on the AC to defog. I've asked three times to have the heater core checked and they all say it's fine.
Since they replaced my transmission at 40,000 miles, I've noticed that occasionally, but not always, there is an unusual quick half second jerk or jump feeling when I first crank the car on a cold start. It doesn't happen all the time, just some times, but it has to be a cold start when I do feel it. What this could be? I'm thinking maybe some bolts weren't put tight enough when they installed the new transmission?
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