My car just started over heating and I checked the fans and they are not running. I'm new to the VW family and although I love the way this car drives I've been baptized with quite a few problems.
View 2 RepliesI've figured out why my car has been overheating lately, the fans aren't running at all! How do I get the front end off and check things out, is there a fuse diagram for the B6...
View 16 RepliesSo my friend, ignoring my advice that this generation seems to be riddled with electrical problems, decided to purchase a seemingly nice 99 Jetta, with a junkyard AEG swapped in(AEG is written on the intake and block like a JY would do). Sun roof doesn't slide back, gets jammed, evidence shows water has built up previously and run down the A-Pillar to the fuse box.
I just got the fans unplugged and verified that the fans with power applied, both have their low/high speeds. The fuses on top of the battery are in-tact, no visible melting, looks like the thing is in ok shape(haven't taken them off to inspect the contacts yet).
Finding the electrical controls( fuses, relay, control unit) of the fans ( both are not working) ... Passat station wagon 2.0T (FSI) 2007 .....
View 4 RepliesCar drives excellent in dry weather, smooth, no hesitation. or misses. While driving in the rain, the car will start running "REAL" ruff and then will stall. I try to start it and the motor just turns over, sounds like no gas or not firing. I will keep trying and after about 6 times it will fire, start and quits, if lucky with a few more tries I can get it started and needs to rev up to 4,000, sometimes it will stay there with a miss or RPM works down and quits. When lucky I can nurse it home and then won't start for 3 days.
I have replaced Crankcase position sensor, (made shield for side at wheel well and shield on bottom), camshaft sensor, spark plugs and wires, had coil packs checked, checked plate that coil packs set on, cleaned battery posts, checked and pulled on wires to coil pack plate, none lose and had continuity, put silicone sealant at end of wires to protect from moisture and hold them in replace. Sprayed top of engine with silicone spray and flex seal. Even had intake manifold gasket replaced in case it was sucking in water. Replacing crankshaft position sensor did some good, it makes for faster starts.
So after hitting a deer in my car a few weeks ago I fixed it and drove it around town a little bit and it ran fine. But 15 mins onto the highway the next day it overheated. It was out of oil, which I had checked a couple days before when I fixed it. so after it had cooled down I filled it up with Coolant and oil and started driving it home. the roads where bad and I wanted to go easy on the engine so I took it at about 25-30 MPH. as I was driving it would slowly overheat, but I could get it to start cooling down but dropping it into neutral and just letting it idle while I coasted. I had to get off the frontage road and take the highway the last couple miles before town so I turned the engine off and let the fan run for about 20 mins, and started off again, the weird thing was when I got on the highway I was doing about 55Mph and the engine didn't try to overheat at all, but as soon as I got back in town and started doing 25 again it started overheating again. another thing that is happening is that the car will blow air through the heating system but won't heat it. I realize that was long but I'm really at a loss. I replaced the head gaskets less than a year ago so it's not from worn gaskets.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2003 F150 4.6l triton v8.... I started over heating yesterday. Got home, let it cool down and found Oil in Coolant. No coolant in oil or transmission fluid. What could be wrong?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2003 F150 4.6 Triton V8.... My truck started over heating again after replacing the Thermostat and Water Pump later this summer.... Well I checked Coolant and I have Oil in the Coolant. I see Nothing wrong with the Tranny Fluid and see nothing wrong with the Oil.... What could be the problem??????
View 4 RepliesI have a 1997 ford f150 V-6 4.2. My son was driving the truck on the expressway and it quit running. The toe truck has delivered the truck back to my house. The engine turns over but will not start. I shot gas into the engine with a spray bottle and the engine still would not start. Was going to check the coil for spark next. What to check first. Was thinking the problem could be the modulator or coil.
View 10 RepliesDefroster/heater fans quit without warning. Heat continues to flow from vents but volume not enough to keep windows defrosted. All fuses fine.
View 2 Replies1)Reverse lights stay on all the time. Tranny is an automatic. The gearshift indicator in the dash works normally. Is it the tranny electrical switch thats bad?
2)Engine just started overheating. I know for a fact the belt to the water pump is loose. Whats the proper way to tighten up that belt? I know how to take the front off the car...just don't know how to tighten the water pump belt. Its the motor that has the separate water pump outside the block, AEB engine.
My Wife has a 1984 and I have a 1985 Toyota Pickup, 2wd, 22R engine, same dash and almost same everything. There are 4 settings on the selector switch (horizontal lever switch moving from left-to-right) for the blower fan: "Off", "Low", "Med" & "High". In both trucks, the "Low" setting for the BLOWER FANS quit working, but the other settings still work fine and amount heat-output is fine(so this is a FAN problem and not a "heating" problem).
Is the problem in the switch itself?, or in the blower fan resistor?, or in the blower fan motor? From what I've read elsewhere, it seems to be a blower fan Resister problem that is most likely. If that is the case, where exactly should I be looking for it and will I need to remove the dashboard? And what does it look like? I've seen a small black object about 1"x 1.75"x 1.75" and it has an Amperage listing on it and it's next to a Relay that seems to be related to the heater. I'm guessing that thing is not the resister if it's labeled "Amperage", I would think it should have an "Ohms" symbol or word or rating on it if it were the resistor, or is that really "it".
As the title says, car is overheating. Car gets to 190F within a couple miles drive. Temperature fluctuates between 190F and 225F.
Water pump was replaced ~2 months ago. Was not overheating prior. Temp reached 190F and stayed. Currently has the "black top" coolant temp sensor.
I noticed the coolant fans are not running after I turn the ignition off. This time of year they would usually be running after turning the engine off. If car is overheated and with AC off the fans do not run while engine is running.
I used the guide below to try diagnosing the cause: [URL] ....
Remember both fans should come on in slow speed any time the key is on and the AC is on - if the temperature is above about 32 F (0 C). Both fans run with key on and AC on
S180 (fuse 8, 30 amps, green plastic, above battery) must be good for slow speed operation.
Fuse and holder look good: no melting, no discoloration.
S164 (fuse 3, 40 amps, metal strip, above battery) must be good for fast speed operation.
fuse looks good: unbroken.
To ensure the AC circuits and the Fan Control Module has power check:
Fuse 5 on the cabin fuse panel.
Fuse 16 on the cabin fuse panel. When this fuse is blown the radiator fans will often run unexpectedly.
Fuse 25 on the cabin fuse panel.
All three fuses look good: unbroken
For the first test of the slow speed fans from the radiator thermoswitch have the key off.....Both fans should run in slow speed.
Passed test: both fans run slow
The second test is for the fast speed fans, key on, AC off.... Both fans should run in fast speed.
Passed test: both fans run fast
If the fans run in the tests above, then you should be good to go. No further tests are needed.
If you have been seeing high coolant temperatures and the fans have not been running, then you may need a new thermoswitch.
My 1999 Accord V6 with 180k miles has started overheating. The fans will not run unless the A/C is on. I replaced the coolant temp switch A, because the fan came on when I jumpered the pins of the fan connector. The fan will not come on, even when the temp gauge goes all the way to the top. Jumper the pins or turn on the climate control, the fans kick on, and the temp drops. Tested the old temp switch in boiling water and it tested fine. Tried spreading the pins on the temp sensor in case the connection was just bad and that did nothing.
Otherwise, the system seems to work fine. Top coolant hose gets hot first, then bottom gets hot after 10 minutes. The heat works, and I didn't see any signs of exterior leaks. What else might keep the cooling fans from coming on?
I have a 2001 toyota camry ce in Miami, fl which is overheating. the fans seem to come on only if i turn on the a/c. however the temperature still rises and gauge needle hits red. if on idle the fans never come on. observed fluid inside radiator with cap off and it does not run through while on idle with a/c off, it just gets hot. changed thermostat and added new 50-50 antifreeze, still same. I'm suspecting a switch but why is fluid never running even when hot? I even drive it with hood open (unlatched) to let a bit more air in and still overheats, even with a/c on and fans running (again, they only turn on with a/c on), it overheats.
View 3 RepliesSo i have a 2002 1.8t that i got in december. Everything has been great so far untill the other day the car overheated on me in traffic. It was a bit warm out maybe 75-80 degrees. I saw the needle start to climb and then the light went on so i through the heat on full blast and it dropped the needle a bit and turned the light off long enough to pull off the highway. I let it cool down and checked things out. I am not low on fluid, an the fluid was changed within the last year with the vw recommended stuff. The radiator hoses are pressurized so i believe that the pump and thermostat are working. I am thinking it could have something to do with my fans. I tested them in my driveway by supplying them with 12v and the spun perfectly. It only happens when the car is standing still for a period of time. Driving at any speed is fine. Is there some sort of switch that tells the fans to turn on?
View 2 RepliesI have a V8 engine, and I have been getting the coolant overheating warning come on once in a while.
The engine fans go crazy, and the temperature needle on the small round gauge climbs all the way to red then the coolant overheating warning comes on in dash screen.
This can happen right after I turn the car on, or on occasion, it can happen as I am driving around the city.
I stop, switch the car off, and I turn it back on after a minute, and the car is just fine. So, basically, it doesn't seem like the engine coolant is actually overheating, but the fans and warning systems seem to think that they are. The fans are pretty loud, and its noticeable when they go on, and when this happens, I know that the needle will go all the way up and the warning will go off. I also know that if I turn the car off for a minute, and it will be just fine.
The conditions are random for when this happens. So its not when its particularly hot or cold or anything predictable. Could this just be a sticky thermostat? Is it a bad water pump? Bad battery?
The trouble is that now I am afraid I cant take a real drive. Around the city I can just pull over, but I am afraid to take the car two hours out or something.
My Subaru just had the thermostat replaced, and it seemed to work until the wife took it she said it over heats when not driving the fans are working, it's over flowing out the reserve tank the fluid looked good when changed the thermostat so I don't think it's the head gasket my next guess would be either the water pump... After I last changed the thermostat and test drove it I felt the upper radiator hose it was hot but the bottom one was cool/warm.
View 8 Replies2005 Dodge Neon SXT 206XXX
Long story short on a trip (about a 1 hr. drive) got about a block away from destination and gauge showed it was over heating. Stopped the car started up after five min. just fine. Got home replaced the thermostat and cap (old cap was junk). New cap was junk aftermarket so yesterday I took the same car on a half hour drive to get a Mopar cap ran just fine up again until a block away, pulled off the road turned it off let it set a few min. then didn't even show it was over heating. Let the pressure off and replaced the cap and added in a bit more coolant ran fine all the way back (even pushed speed in a few spots).
The above is just what seems to be the mechanical side of the issue. After noticing the gauge was going a bit above the normal spot I noticed my cooling fans are not coming on. Checked fuse and tested relays out to be fine. First thought is to check voltage to the fans but also tempted to check coolant temp sensor with bench test. Will be going over to my dads to do voltage testing later today.
My Camry seems to be overheating. When I'm driving the gauge maintains and reads 6/10, when the engine is idling, it goes upto 8/10, radiator fans kick in and then temperature goes down to 6/10 and keeps cycling over a period of 5 mins.
It's got 100K miles, water pump has not been replaced yet.
I checked the hose temperature; top hose 210 F, bottom hose 192, fans kick in when top hose is around 215 F.
I checked the engine temperature where the sender is installed and it was reading 205 F. Coolant level is OK. I burped the system. Previous owner told me, he had thermostat replaced by dealer.
I know the alternator needs replacing but why are the fan relays not working correctly. Also, the top radiator hose is really hot? I replaced the thermostat as well as the coolant reservoir? I also replaced a couple of the fan relays from my older wrecked Camry. Would the noisy alt that is going out have something to do w/the fans and fan relays not working properly?
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