97 passat vr6. I only get warm air from the vents when I'm accelerating. As soon as I come to a stop it starts blowing cold air. Does this mean there is air in the system? If so how do I bleed it out?
View 1 RepliesMy 2001 f150 super crew, the heat only works on speeds 1-3. All 4 speeds blow air fine, I'm talking about the temperature. not the blower. Could it be the heat resistor?
View 4 RepliesSo, for a couple of weeks my g/f's Passat has had no heat. The blower fan runs and the AC works but the heat is non-existent. Fast forward to this morning and now all of a sudden her heat miraculously works again. The car has 170k miles on the clock and had the timing belt and water pump done around 120k miles. The thermostat I'm not too sure about. I don't know when (if ever) the system has had a coolant flush so I plan on doing that this weekend. Is it okay to use something other than the G12 VW originally put in it?
At first I thought maybe her heater core was clogged but if it is I don't understand why the heat would start working again. Any tutorial on how to flush this motor properly and how to access the heater core lines so I can try to clear it? On my car it's a piece of cake but her VW stumps me sometimes.
Just have a few things wrong with my Passat 1.9 tdi... When I am accelerating sometimes the car would die, almost as if the turbo has just cut out and the car struggles to pull along around 40mph, once i pull over, turn the engine off and start up again its fine!... It could go fine for a week then do it 5 days in a row it just seems a bit temperamental and happens at the worst of times!
Sometimes half way up a hill and the car travels up around an embarrassing 20/30mph until i get on a flat again, other times would be pulling away from lights and id be quick one minute then its gone!... just seems to be when i need a bit more power, it gives me the opposite! [URL] ....
Have no heat, the a/c works fine, ran the diag. and got codes 1262,1265,1947, and 5041, I don't even know where to begin.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2003 Camry XLE (4 cyl). The heat will only work when the A/C is on. If A/C is off, air will blow from the vents, but it is not hot. What part needs to be fixed/replaced?
View 7 RepliesSo after replacing the entire clutch assembly, coil packs, plugs,valve cover gasket, thermostat housing, blah blah blah basically a tons of new parts. I get her up and running and notice my heat only works when under throttle...yup water pump...but wait what's that milky substance under the valve cover cap now never ran hot but appears to have blown the head gasket as well. Doing compression test this weekend..
View 9 RepliesI have a 1992 Mazda 929 in which the heat does not work while the a/c does work perfectly. When the problem first occurred the fusible link for the A/C was broken (indicative of some electrical overload). I replace the fusible link and still no heat.
I went under the passenger side of the dash and changed every visible black box (fuse/sensors)that is attached to the heater core unit. After that the heat still did not work.In relation to this problem the care now runs hot whenever I am a red light or in stop and go traffic.This seems to me a that a mechanical gate from the engine is not opening to allow the hot fluid from the engine to get into the heater core.
When I'm driving, steady mph, my car feels as if I've just downshifted, or that my foot slipped off the gas pedal. When this happens I've noticed that the tachometer drops down from say 20 - 30 to 10 or less! But just momentarily. It happens to a warm or cold engine. It's going to give me a whiplash! I've brought it to my VW dealer. They put it on the computer, and no problem comes up! No lights on my dashboard are on either. This problem is really annoying.
View 3 RepliesI'm having issues with my 09 Camry. Yesterday my water pump shoot craps on me. SO this morning I replaced the water pump. After replacing the water pump I noticed that the heat would work only when the car is moving. So I went to the store again and bought a thermostat. Replaced that and the heat still only work when the car is in motion. So I checked the radiator cap it was bad I was able to hold it in my hand and spend it with the other hand. Ok replaced the radiator cap. I let the car sit at idle running and the heat worked shortly then it started to blow cool again. I checked the radiator hoses and the lower hose was cold right along with the thermostat housing.
View 10 Replies5.4 V8... A/C works for 30min. then stops blowing cold air. Turn system off for 15min. and it will blow cold air again for another 15min. then stops again. Passenger floor area gets cold and can hear fan blowing but no air coming out of vents.
In winter now and stops blowing hot air after 30-40min of driving. Turn system off for 15min. and will blow hot again. Had new A/C compressor and a/c clutch installed back in summer.???
My front heat controls work at start up occasionally. The heat will eventually come on in front after 15-30 minutes of the truck running. Needless to say this sucks for defrosting the front window during warm up. The rear controls work fine. I do have a couple that need replacing but the fan control isn't one. Temp & selectors. I've searched but haven't been able to find anything about same issue. Where to start?
View 14 RepliesI recently ran very low on coolant with my 2005 Prius and had the overheat light coming on. Immediately before the overheat light came on, I realized that the blower was blowing cold air even though the engine was running. When the light came on, I immediately stopped and refilled coolant at the overflow reservoir and the radiator and let it run through a few times. I have re-topped off the coolant levels and it seems to be holding steady. Hopefully I have not done long-term damage to the engine, but that remains to be seen, and is, of course, very possible given that I let it get so low.
A symptom I have right now is that when I turn the car/engine on, hot air does not come out of the blower. If I remain in park, when the engine turns off, hot air begins to come out. When the engine kicks back in, the hot air stops. What this may be a symptom of?
Having issue with heat only working when the temp is at 90? I turn it down one click 85 and it goes cold?
View 3 RepliesI have an F-250 Ford, 2006, 6.0 turbo-diesel. Started noticing that my heat only works while running at 70 mph or more and the turbo is at around 15-20 psi. Now that it has gotten cold it is definitely an issue. Truck does not overheat, I am not able to feel heat on the hose after control vlave and I do not feel any vacuum on the line (grey) to the control valve. I have checked for leaks, changed out the fill cap, checked anti-freeze level, pulled control valve just to verify its position when opened (which it seems to stay open). It's getting really cold in the cab of that truck now.
View 4 RepliesI have a Chevrolet Prizm 1998 and the heat and cooling system only works on the highest setting which is actually the fan setting. When I have it on any of the other settings such as low or med nothing comes out, it doesn't work. I can hear it click on but nothing comes out. So when I'm driving depending on the weather I have the heat or cold air blasting out of the fan until it gets annoying and I turn it off. I've checked the fuses and they're good. I have not checked the relays because I'm not sure how to do that. I haven't taken it to a shop because I'm poor and don't have a trustworthy mechanic and it works just not on low or med. Should I have this looked at? I don't want to be causing any damage but it seems like it could be something simple.
View 2 RepliesMy 2003 Buick Century heater works fine while accelerating but as soon as I release the gas the air begins to cool, swiftly. I have had the radiator flushed and the coolant topped off but the problem persists.
View 17 RepliesMy 2010 Ford Explorer experienced a radiator leak between the radiator and the plastic tank on the top, so I replaced that, we were still not experiencing any heat while driving it. I watched a couple of videos on how to "burp" the system, to no avail.
Next I replaced the thermostat, and "burped" it again, still no heat, so I drained and flushed the system yet again and still no heat. What else is there to check? I have the Haynes manual and did the flush and fill the way the book said and still have no heat I am about to lose my mind.
The blend doors sound like they are opening. They are not clicking like they are broken.
The heater is on full the entire time, I have not rotated the dial since I started this.
I unplugged one of the hoses on the heater core and blew into it, the hose was bone dry and I blew into the end of the hose and fluid came out of the cabin side metal tube. I also plugged a water hose into the tube and ran water through it to make sure it wasn't clogged, it is not. Front and rear heater cores.
Here is everything thing I have done from the start:
- Replaced Radiator.
- Replaced Thermostat.
- Drain and flush and re-service.
- Checked for leaks out of the water pump weep hole (none) and operation of pump, the upper hose gets hot and I feel water go through it when the thermostat opens.
- Check the radiator cap for pressure, it opens at 20psi and hold between 17-19psi. Replaced radiator cap anyway.
- Removed supply hose and ran coolant to purge trapped air.
- Ran water through the supply and return hoses on the heater core. On the front and rear.Check operation of heater control valve, works.
- Turned vehicle on while watching the exhaust pipe, a small amount of water on initial start up in the morning but no smoke.
Problems still occurring:
-Drive vehicle it over heats but returns to normal at idle I also get the coolant light that extinguishes when the car returns to idle. Even though it says its overheating the car has not pushed coolant into the expansion tank.
- The car will not take any more coolant, and only overheats after the fan comes on. And still no heat.
Should add, 4.0L engine, no oil in water after flush and the engine oil looks like engine oil not milky. Next step was a water pump???
2003 F 150. 5.4 motor. 4x4. 270,000 miles. Climate control.
The A/C is ice cold.. For the first 12-15 miles, and then it shuts off and is warm.
I had it recharged at the shop just to be sure. When it works, it blows out the vent at approx. 42 degrees.. nice and cold.
This problem happens every time. Turning the climate control off and then back on doesn't work.
Shutting the truck off and then back on doesn't work. Wait a while.. Not quite sure how long, but the next time I drive it, it will work again. For about 12-15 miles and then blows warm again.
A bit of funky , moist smell to it when it blows warm.. Typical A/C smell I think.. The box could prob use a cleaning.
The AC works, but just not well enough on a really hot day. On a day in the 90s I have to put it on Max AC and even then it does not cool down for a while and the air out of the vents is not ice cold.
So, it works, but I cannot tell if there is something wrong or not. I recently put in a can of AC Pro and it did not change anything.
My digital odometer is funky! Sometimes time it works sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes it works on start up than after a lil while it fades out.
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