Passat (B5) :: 1997 - Boost Gauge Needle Is Jumping
Sep 2, 2010
I have a strange problem, my boost guage needle is jumping like crazy, there is no vacuum leak and the max boost i get is 0.5 bar, when the guage needle is not jumping I get a boost of 1.4 bar. I have mechanical boost control.
97' passat B5 1.8T AEB with FMIC,K04-15,2.75",chip (that was made for the original k03).
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I just noticed recently, that while accelerating, the needle on my boost gauge never really holds. It flutters back and forth between psi throughout the acceleration, rather than holding. This also occurs while I am idle and have the A/C on, the needle flutters back and forth. I have the stage I set-up Revo software which I have had for a while.
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So driving over the pass last weekend, I noticed as I reached about 15 psi on my boost gauge the needle started to stumble/flicker and I could audibly hear a "pffsssfftst" at that same time, back down away from 15lbs boost and the noise goes away? I am leaning towards a boost leak, it sounded like it was coming from the driver side anyways. I hate to just assume it is something, and mindlessly throw parts at it, on the other hand I know that is one way to start replacing old worn out parts.... So I am thinking start at ordering some new CAC boots from riffraff, anything else I could consider? Could be a worn out spring on the wastgate?
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I am having problem with the gas gauge I have a full tank of gas but the gauge needle is stuck on E but when I unhook the battery and hook it back and start the car the gas gauge needle is on the full and its stays on full for like 3 days and then the gas gauge needle will drop back down to the E and stay there. This sound like something wrong in the fuel pump.
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My '97 Jimmy has had an inaccurate gas gauge for several years now. Initially, it would read accurately until approximately 1/4 of the tank of fuel remained. After this point it would read full regardless of how much gas was in the tank. Over time this has progressed so the gauge only reads accurately until approximately 3/4 of the tank of fuel remains and most of the time the gauge reads full. I have simply been refilling every 200 miles during this time but I have forgotten a few times and been stranded so I would like to address it now. The gauge needle also oscillates in time with the turn signal when it is activated which may or may not be related. I am having no fuel supply issues so I don't think there is an issue with the fuel pump but I believe the pump and fuel sender are integrated in my model year so it may be necessary to replace it anyway.
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Last night while driving I saw the needle at zero and was surprised because I refilled a few days earlier, there was also no warning light to refuel the car. When reached home turned the car off and then on and the needle moved in position.
It happened again this evening and restart cured it ... only for the gauge to fail again while driving. The fuel-to-empty indicator was not showing any distance.
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Passat TDI: Occasionally the needle on my gas drops to zero, stays there for awhile, then returns to an accurate setting. THE SAME THING is happening on my '99 Jetta GLX. Bad gauge on both cars? Could water from a gas pump due this?
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Last fall I had my radiator flushed and at the same time my coolant overfill canister with built in temperature guage sensor was replaced with a new unit. (The service station replaced the resevoir canister with a new unit in the engine compartment, because they felt the sensor is prone to failing after 7 years.)
Ever since, my temperature gauge needle on the dash will randomly drop (even when the car is up to FULL OPERATING TEMPERATURES) showing the engine being cooler than it out to be. In other words the needle drops signifying to a much lower water temperature. After a period of time the needle will recover back to the normal full operating temperature mark on the dash gauge.
What could cause this? Inside my radiator do I have a "diafram" temperature valve that could be failing /"sticking?" In other words could a temperature valve in the radiator be sticking at odd or random times??? I also notice that my heater does not put out the usual full furnace heat that a Passat is know for. The temperature is about 1/3 cooler now that we are into winter temperatures.
Is my heater core clogged?
Could the new coolant sensor in the new coolant overfill chamber not be working well? This whole situation began AFTER my radiator was flushed, and AFTER I had the coolant reservoir canister and sensor replaced.
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So yesterday I was driving home from work.. I know my tank was 3/4 full. All of a sudden, my low fuel light came on and my gas gauge needle went to empty.
The needle sits at E, but it still says about 20 miles till empty on the MFD. When I left the house this morning, it said 5miles till empty.. by the time I got to work, it said 20. Kinda odd..
I will hook up the vagcom when I get home tonight, any area I should scan for? or just a complete scan? There is no CEL error on the dash though. What I could look at to fix this?
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I have been reading alot about the speedo needle that jumps on the 2002 elantra gls while driving. My speedo is doing the same thing and I have been told it could be the VSS , the auto trans sensor, the vss sending unit. speedo gauge etc. Which sensor to start with or how to test ? I assume they are on the tranny cover which I have not looked at yet.
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I have a 2001.5 Passat with a TIP and an upsolute chip. I was wondering if there are any write ups with pictures on how to install a boost gauge. I'm having trouble finding where to put one as well as where to T off and get pressure from.
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When I give my car some gas my boost gauge fluctuates a lot and doesn't hold, I have an OEM piston style dv revision d I believe, and I have a catch can and also a blow off valve, and I'm stage 2. I was thinking of getting an awe diverter valve?
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I just purchased a b5 99 1.8t. The tubing from the intake manifold to the dv was cut by accident (long story, dont ask).I replaced the dv and tubing .I want to check if the psi is correct. I dont have a boost gauge.
What are the ways to check it besides a boost gauge? I think the correct psi is around 6-8 ?
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The installation of a boost gauge and steering or column pod? I'm looking at installing the Podi Gauge for the MK5 - but I understand it needs some modifications to make everything fit correctly?
I searched but couldn't find the exact answer I was looking for - besides a retrofit to the pod, is there some drilling / t-fittings required for the actual install of the gauge? As far as I understand, it's a bit more involved than plug and play?
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I just bought a 98 passat 1.8t manual trans, its has 105k on it now, I am having a problem with the turbo surging. I am running about 17 psi however every now and then i can put it to the floor and my boost gauge will jump from 12-17 just back and forth, I also have a prob every now and then where it will only build 4 psi and stay there i can down shift take my foot on and off the gas and still no change then just all of a sudden 17 again both these probs are intermittent looked briefly at vacuum lines.
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The temperature gauge on the dashboard is jumping around after the car warms up. It rapidly goes from cold to normal in an unpredictable pattern. It never goes over the middle. I have had both the engine and the radiator replaced in the past year!
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My wife left her overhead light on over the weekend and the battery drained. Once we charged the battery, everything seems to be just fine except the fuel usage gauge keeps jumping around at random. I reset the trip meters but that didn't do anything. What to do? This is a 2013 Prius V 2.
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Was on my way to my girlfriend's house and decided to do a few pulls. Noticed afterwards my rpm gauge was stuck at 6k rpms and wouldn't go any lower. The car was running fine and I was in 6th gear just cruising at 55mph. Did another pull and after that it was stuck at 8k and if I downshifted the needle would max out at the 6 o'clock position. When I arrived I turned my car off to see if it would reset itself and it got stuck at 7k rpm.
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I recently had the radiator on my car replaced and wen I got it back the temperature and gas gauge needles are both blown past the HOT sign and past the full sign on my gas gauge and is sitting under the little black piece under the the cold side and under the empty side. it was obviously messed with and completely turned around but why is it like this? will it reset itself or should I take i.e., back to the mechanic to have it fixed by him?
2000 buick park avenue....
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I have a 2005 Elantra GLS with a couple thousand miles over 100K. There is what appears to be an overheating issue with my car. When I'm driving it in city driving usually less than 45 MPH, the heater blows cold air. However, on the highway (greater than 50 MPH) it blows hot air and the temp needle stays in the normal range (just below the halfway point between hot and cold and more towards the cold). However, when I slow down and come to city speeds, the temp needle starts to rise and the heater blows cold air.
The needle went to the red zone this morning but as soon as it got to the red zone, it slowly came back down to the normal point (within 2-3 seconds). And @ the same time, the heater started blowing warm/hot air like it would be functioning normally. When the needle got the red zone, my car didn't stop or I didn't see smoke coming from the hood or anything like. It was almost like something (maybe thermostat) tripped and allowed the engine to cool.
After doing some research on this, the potential issues point to thermostat, coolant level, radiator crack. I haven't checked how the coolant level is doing but I will check that this weekend.
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Ok I was driving home right know from work, and looking at the speedometer, i notice that my temperature gauge turns off (the needle goes all the way down). what can it be?
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