Passat (B5) :: 1996 GLX V6 Rattle At Start Up At 2k RPM
Jan 12, 2009
My 99 Passat GLX V6 is making a loud rattling noise that seems to be coming from the passenger side firewall area. This started about a month ago and only happens when the car has been sitting for several hours (first thing in the morning, and when starting it after work). The noise is loudest at about 2k RPM and stops completely after about a minute. I suspect some kind of heat shield is loose. What to look at? I have tried finding something loose from the top of the engine and didn't find anything. Next step is to check from the underside.
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The rattle only lasts for a second or two. Only warning light recently was airbag control module, addressed by Dealer. Also noticed recently, while doing some "spirited" driving, there was a deep-bass thump sound at the end of each gear change.
I've done forum searches for start-up rattle and found issues with timing chain/belt, in relation to the tensioner bolt, mentioned in reference to an earlier design(?). I was unable to find anything related to the B7/NMS.
No idea if it's a V6 issue, DSG issue or general VW issue. NMS V6? NMS DSG?
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I have a '96 Windstar, 3.8L base model.
I've notice a bumping around, rattle type noise in the wheel well or below the adjacent floor at the right rear tire. I'm still looking into the cause at this point.
The "tracking bar" was replaced last year, and is firm and tight. The rear exhaust pipe was also replaced last year, and I've checked that it might be "tapping" on the body of the van by checking it's range of movement.
The shocks are relatively new (<50,000 miles)...
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I have a 1996 Toyota Camry with 200k miles on it. It has been giving me trouble starting for a while and I was advised to replace my battery during my last oil change. The problem is when I try to start it does not start for a while. It makes a noise and tiisssssss and stop. tissssss and stop. But then third or fourth try, it works. I installed a new battery and I am still having the same problem. One cold day, it never started no matter how many times I tried. My roommate who is an aerospace engineering PhD candidate came out of the apartment with a teapot full of how water and poured it onto the terminals. For record, terminals are clean. When he did that, it worked.
What is wrong with car?
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My 96 mercedes c280 will not start in the winter. I moved from florida to ohio and when it gets close to freezing or below my car will not start. The lights on rear view mirror (immobilizer lights) blink for 30 sec. I have to wait any where from 5-30 min. to start car depending on how cold it is, otherwise car runs great.
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I have a 1996 VW Jetta GL 4 cyl. 2.0L. When the temp. start to warm up the car won't start. I don't know if its the temp. outside, or in the cabin of the car. all the dash lights turn on, and accessories turn on. sometimes I hear a clicking noise, which I think is the sound of electricity going to the starter. I have replaced the starter, alternator, & battery. I had a family friend mechanic look at it for about 3 hrs. and he couldn't figure it out. I have a suspicion that it might be the ignition switch faulting out, but how would I know for sure with out taring apart the steering column?
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I have a 96 GMC Jimmy that will not start..... I have replaced the spider fuel injector and now I get the right fuel pressure. I have random non regular spark that is very week. I have replaced the ignition coil, spark plug wires, spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor, cam sensor, the ECM, and the ignition control module. The crank sensor checked out to be good. I do not know where else to check...
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I've have a rattle right here since day one of owning the car (5 days ago!) -- If I hold right on that box while I drive, it goes away immediately. It seems like the piece isn't "clicked in" all the way ...
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My clutch is not disengaging when i push in the clutch pedal. I have good clutch pressure, I have to basically rpm shift my way through the gears. Is a dead slave cylinder the most likely culprit for this? if so is there any special information i need to know when it comes to bleeding out the new one?
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My car has rattle on the right side If I push up on the dash it stops-- release the pressure and it returns. Started on rough roads, now almost all the time. Took to my dealer before the 36,000 mile warranty expired and they told me VW doesn't warranty rattles past 12,000 miles. I am afraid fixing it will cause more problems, but it drives me crazy.
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It doesn't have anything to do with being at low RPM's and I am not sure if I need to be worried...
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So my 2000 1.8t is about to go into its 7th year and for the most part is doing very well. I have a rattle in my sunroof that is driving me crazy lately and I want to get it fixed. It looks like something with the plastic off to the sides. Nothing appears to be loose or out of place.
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I have lots of rattles. I went to the dealer with little to no success. The one that is bothering me the most is coming from inside of the steering wheel.
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My 2001.5 1.8T Passat (81K) is at the local European car specialist to look into a metallic rattle coming from the front end, mostly the right wheel. From reading similar posts here and asking a few questions, I think it may have something to do with the brake pad change done a few months ago (the sound disappears when the brakes are even tapped, then it comes back over cracks in the pavement). It may need something simple, like shims or a spring to keep things from rattling. Then again, it may be the notorious VW/Audi tie rod/control arm thing. Somewhere in here I may have seen that VW dealers were fixing problems with those parts for free or at reduced cost as a good will measure. Is this true? Would that only cover the earlier B5 (MY 97-2000)? I'm wondering if I should take it to VW instead of my mechanic based on the cost. Also, is this so complicated that I should leave it to VW anyway?
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I am throwing 8 codes.. I drive a 1997 passat glx vr6 and I most recently changed waterpump and maf sensor .. My car keeps shutting off it turns over but does not idle. I can drive it but when I come to stops it shuts off.
These are the codes: P1582 P1426 P0134 P0102 P1580 P0306 P0303 P0305
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I have had no problems out of my jeep except my check engine light came on and it was a bad 02 Sensor and I was told I didn't need to replace it. Well I was driving down the highway and all of a sudden my jeep died. The radio cut off my air and I put it in neutral and I tried to start it and it would not crank. I coasted in a drive way and it cranked and them died. Now it acts like it wants to start but it wont. Replaced the fuel filter. I am getting fuel to the fuel rail. It will not start with starter fluid. I took the crank sensor off and it replaced it and it still wouldn't crank. My fuel pump makes a whinning sound. My lights come on..My windshield wipers won't. My radio doesn't work and the inside lights well I couldn't get them to go off before I before my vehicle died on me, about 3 weeks before I just took the bulbs out. Would the 02 sensor make it not start?
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Because my car would intermittently start with the key (it would run fine if I jumped the relay at the starter) I just put in a new Autozone lock/cylinder in my old '96 Lumina LS. Prior to the install, I took the new lock/key and old key to the locksmith, who told me he has the tool to read the resistance on the key which corresponds to the computer in my car and I wouldn't need to go to GM. Also, the brake lights weren't working right so while I had the steering wheel off I replaced the turn signal switch too.
I went to check to make sure the turn signals/brake lights worked before buttoning everything back up so I reattached the battery, with the key in the new lock; the dash lights came on, the chime went off as they should. I then put the ignition key in the 'run' position and the chime died and the lock mechanism will no longer turn and I get no lights at the dash. The car won't shift and I'm effectively screwed! FYI - The headlights and brake lights both now work but I can't turn the key in the ignition. Did I just get locked out? Did my locksmith hand me a line of bull?
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I wait for the glow plug to stop before attempting to start. Then it's like Aaron Tippin sings, "sometimes she runs, sometimes she don't". It turns over fine. When it's running, it runs good. But most times it won't start. The fuel is being stopped somewhere. The in tank pump is working..I can hear it when I turn on the key. What else can I check?
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My 1996 Volvo 850 with 254K miles has what seems like random starting troubles. Some days it starts without any problems. Other days I am unable to get it started. The battery is fine. I had to tow it to my mechanic one night and he started the car the next morning without any problems! But it has become unreliable.
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I have a 96 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 5.2L pickup that wont start. I have replaced fuses, starter, ignition switch, tumbler. it still wont run. i can craw under it with 2 screwdriver and start it by touching hot wire and trigger wire. I have hooked it to a diagnostics machine and it said idle air was bad and I replaced that too...
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Recently the check engine light came on and coded out to the mass air flow sensor. I changed the sensor and cleared the fault code, but after doing so the car wouldn't start. After many failed attempts to start the motor, I disconnected the positive lead at the battery and reconnected it a few minutes later. The car started and ran smooth, however the check engine came back on and coded out to the mass air flow sensor again...
I let the car continue to idle and disconnected the lead at the sensor how the motor would react; it continued to run smooth....I then reinstalled the old air flow sensor and engine continued to run great...So with all this said, car runs great when check engine is on and code is not rest, however, car will not start upon clearing the code and resetting the light......is it safe to assume the computer is going bad and needs to be changed?
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