Passat (B5) :: 1990 - On Startup Get A Beep And Temp Light Stays On Until Car Warmed Up
Nov 22, 2006
I just bought a second hand passat tdi se,1999, and need some pointers on a couple of problems/faults,the first is when I start up I get a beep and the temp light stays on until the car has warmed up, the second is no matter what I do I cant seem to get the blowers going, this model has the climate control and I was wondering if I am having a blond moment and missing the obvious or whether it's a fuse etc.
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Sometimes when I start my car, parking brake light fails to go off. I know this is usually indicative of low brake fluid, but mine is not low. I rarely use the brake so I don't think it's the parking brake switch either as it only happens if the parking brake is not engaged. Never happens on the occasional use of it.
Restarting doesn't seem to work unless I set the brake, restart, then disengage it. Very strange problem. Not a big deal but is a bit perplexing. I never see a CEL or any codes generated at all.
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I have a 2001 Ranger 4.0L 4x4 with 101,000 miles on it. I went to go get in it the other day and the Air Bag Light came on out of the blue. I've drove it some since and it is still on. The light blinks for about 1 minute upon startup and then stays on solid for the remainder of the trip. What would make this come on so suddenly and is there anything I can do/check?
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I would like to know what's happening, it seems as if idling for a minute to let my transmission temperature dial raise past the lowest line on the dial fixes or at least drastically reduces a couple issues.
The truck will deliver power much smoother off the line. I've been concerned about this for a while. The degree to which it happened wasn't constant but it seems like the truck is having trouble grabbing on (so to say) to the power coming off the line. I sort of liken it to a rope. When I give it the beans the rope goes forward but it takes a half a second or so for the truck to "grab" on to the rope. Never hard shifts, it's just delivering the power off the line or from a near stop.
Idling for a minute seems to fix this, power delivery is smooth off the line. Transmission dipstick was nice and pink but smelled slightly burnt. This is with the engine cold overnight. Didn't have time to do multiple wipes or check in the handbook for the proper methods of checking fluid, I just pulled it out quickly to take a look before heading out. Fluid covered the whole tip.
Second issue that seems to be fixed is that the battery light doesn't come on nearly as much and not for nearly as long. Typically the battery light will come on and off seemingly on its own whim during the drive. However, it seems to stay more consistently off if I idle right after startup.
Now bear in mind I baby my truck, I don't rev it high right after startup. Just low enough to cruise around the parking lot until I hit the road then I accelerate up to 40 - 60 depending on my route. I'd gladly give it the minute to warm up in the future but if I could get down to the bottom of this that'd be preferred, I doubt this is required behavior.
I do realize that these issues are not tied to startup behavior but I find it interesting that idling for a minute at startup to let the transmission gauge rise seems to mitigate these symptoms.
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90 GTS - Manual Transmission. 5SFE
I have a vibration that rattles the cab of the car during start up. But if you get out, lift the hood and listen, you cant hear anything. Its only in the cab where you can even tell there's something not right. The motor runs great and seems very smooth to the touch and visually.
The vibration does seem to go down as the car warms up..... Somewhat....You can hear the vibration when driving and go down through slight dips in the road. Kinda like hitting the rumble strips on the side of the hwy.When I release the clutch and under power the vibrations go away. Under deceleration the vibrations are loud.After weeks of research, both TN and the web, I have done all this so far.
Changed Plugs, wires, cap. All four engine mounts were taken out, inspected, and 3 of the 4 were replaced from a donor car. All 4 looked good anyways....
Swapped harmonic balancer/pully from a donor car.
Compression check. 196 200 200 208
Cleaned IAC valve.
Pulled off exhaust manifold and verified CAT isnt broken.
Inspected exhaust from front to back and cant find anything.
Replace timing belt, tensioner bearing and idler bearing while I was in there.
Took both fan belts off and ran car to see if maybe power steering or AC, but car still rattled even though they weren't turning.
Did head gasket while building this car up because it was leaking oil from the front return tube area.
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My ranger has always run pretty good except for a small bit of chattering at startup which quickly went away after it warmed up. Now all of a sudden its much louder and doesnt seem to go away while driving. I read about the oil pickup tube getting blocked and not properly delivering oil and so I performed the superhuman task of dropping the oil pan to check. While I couldnt get the oil pan all the way out, I got it to where I could feel the oil pick up screen and everything seems okay. I have the valve cover off. Are the lifters adjustable? Whats the issue?
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'92 Camry 5S-FE 4cyl 2.2L A/T; This one has me puzzled. Runs well, newer ignition parts, but does not start when warmed up to OpTemp. Starts fine cold, restarts when warm after 5-10 minute cool down (is not overheating). Will start hot if starting fluid is injected into throttle body, so problem is unlikely spark, it has to be fuel, right? Just ran SeaFoam thru top end as I was advised it could have been carbon build up, but that did not fix. Got some carbon burn off, but hot start issue remained.
Could it be fuel pressure regulator? Fuel pump and filter both replaced less than a year ago. I have basic tools, but not much more than a Multimeter for test equipment.
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When I'm driving the ABS/Brake lights come on at random and beep at me in my 1998 passat... I'm not sure why, and there should be no reason.. my brakes work fine and haven't been a problem... I never slam on my brakes either...the only thing wrong is that I have a brake light out but that shouldn't be it.... Is there something obvious that I'm missing??
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I have a 2000 passat wagon 1.8t and recently my oil pressure light comes on after engine temp. reaches about 175degrees... but it only comes on when I am running below 1650rpm's it will come on and beep and flash a couple times then go away what could cause this... oil pump? worn camshaft?
It does leak oil from somewhere on the bottom half of the block but its a very very very small leak and its had that since i got the car about 3 years ago. The car has 193,xxx miles on it now and I've also noticed i have cracked and broken oil breather hose? ... that starts from underneath the intake manifold...
Y+This hose goes from the engine block to the back of the engine then forward to the other side of the engine to my air filter... I've removed this hose and it is infact broken and dry rotted into about 4 pieces but I don't even know what the hell it is it also looks like i'll have to remove the intake manifold to put this hose back on and on the engine block!!
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For about 2 weeks now when I turn my 2001.5 Passat off, the little light above the driver visor comes on. It only turns off when I put the visor back up. It never did this before and doesn't do it on the passenger side. Can I just disconnect that light? what was also strange was that if I didn't put the visor back up (turning the light off) a clicking sound would come from the instrument cluster and the cluster lights would flicker. But when I put the visor back up the clicking and flickering stopped.
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I've got a 1997 Nissan Altima (automatic, GXE). Recently it has started stalling. Usually this happens when the engine has warmed up to normal operating temperature (though last night it happened when the engine had just started).
Usually when it stalls it will start right back up, but sometimes it takes a few minutes. Sometimes it will start back up and die right away, other times it will turn over and over but not start. After a few minutes it will start back up. Sometimes it will stall momentarily and then restart right away, but not usually.
The rest of the time the car runs smooth as ever, no surging, no stalling, no erratic idling, no sputtering or anything. Usually the check engine light will come on after a stall, but I get a "no code" code when I check.
This started about two weeks ago, it did it once on a Saturday and then didn't do it again until Wednesday. Since then it has happened at least once a day, and yesterday it happened a lot while I was driving home, but not at all when I headed to work. Today it was fine for about 15 minutes and then started doing it a lot, but the last 3 or 4 miles it was fine again.
What may be the problem? I'm going to check the MAF and throttle position sensors, though I would assume if they were malfunctioning I'd either have more symptoms or I'd be getting a code.
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Wifes car began to idle very rough and check engine light began to blink and beep, I took it to the mechanic today and he informed me that my control module was no good and it was a $400 dollar piece. I said go ahead get it done, cuz she needs the car and i couldn't afford to not have it done immediately. Question I have is does this small-ass piece really go for that much on average and what control module is it?
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Every time I start my Golf there is a beep, the EPC light and ABS light come on and stay on, and the brake warning light starts flashing and continues to flash.
I have had the fault codes read and it came up with the following:
0414 Control unit improperly coded Faulty
0606 Yaw rate sensor Circuit defective.
What these faults actually mean and what might cause them? I'm quite keen to resolve the issue as anything brakes related makes me nervous, plus I do drive the car hard and use the 4Motion system, which I believe utilises the ABS system?
Probably worth mentioning that the car is fitted with a Series 1 Blue Haldex controller, in case that makes any difference?
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I have a 2001 Chevy S10 4.3L. The CHECK GAUGES light stays on, and the oil pressure gauge stays at 0. The oil is full, and the engine runs and sounds fine. I drove it about 5 miles with no change. Up until now, the gauge has worked normally. Could it be the sending unit?
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I have a 2000 B5 . It has minor damage front and rear (cosmetic only). Also, the check engine light stays on due to a vacuum leak somewhere between the MAF and the intake manifold. It would need a full paint job at some point after the body work was completed.
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Over the past 2 days I drove without the center of the steering wheel in place because I was in the middle of removing the turn signal arm - I had to wait until I found a T55 torque bit for removing the steering nut. Anyway, the I installed a new turn-signal arm and re-assembled the steering wheel and such. Even after reconnecting the airbag I'm still getting an airbag light on my instrument cluster. Is this a fault code that needs to be reset from the dealer? I know I plugged all the connectors correctly - only one way to do it.
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1990 Lemans GSE 4 cyl 2 ltr gas. Starts quick but in temps less than 60 will not idle. When I turn lights, blower, wipers, flashers, fog lights etc on - it raises RPM's which allow this rascal to idle by itself. When warm, I can start turning off lights & stuff one at a time. Summer time it starts andidles normal. Once warm car runs smooth, although at times may chug (in witch case I just turn on my lights & it goes away). Have replaced: alternator (twice), idle speed control sensor (twice), spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, rotar, & computer box. This thing has been to 3 shops & 1 internet 'fixit' site.
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After about a 5 mile drive my '05 6 cyl Santa Fe always smells hot. The temp gauge needle always stays mid point. Coolant is good and is changed regularly. No oil in coolant or coolant in oil. No cracks in recovery bottle or hoses. All hoses tight, has been pressure tested and is ok. No heater core leak, no visible leaks anywhere in the engine compartment or under the car and no green patches on the radiator. After about a week of driving the recovery bottle level is down about 3/4" but the radiator is full to the neck. Where the coolant is going and how to locate the source?
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I have a 2000 Dodge Intrepid with a 2.7 motor. I have cold heat but it will still defrost windows the temp gauge stays around the 1/2 way mark.
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when i turn on my car it shakes and engine light blinks it happen this morning when i start my car.
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The 2002 Passat was making a rattle noise at startup and flashed an oil pressure light. The dealer says there is an issue with the chain tensioner and oil tube within the engine.
I received the latest VW bulletin for the 1.8l turbo regarding the oil sludge and coking deposits issues and pending class action suit. I have been religious about the oil changes and the dealer has done them for the 10 yrs.
The car runs great and has been super reliable until this issue. There is 110K on the clock and I'm wondering if this is a potential sludge issue.
I have not given the go ahead yet but wonder if this:
a) sounds reasonable cost wise
b)needs to be done right away
c)should I pursue this with VW NA
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