2003 passat GLS stock w/ 1.8T, MIL comes on after full tank drops to about 3/4 full. Code 16826 will clear but keeps coming back, always when the tank is about 3/4. I have replaced gas cap but, no luck. Also, sometimes after filling the tank the light goes off by it's self.
View 2 RepliesMy 2009 F250 5.4 was throwing code P0442 - minor EVAP control system leak.
The first time it happened, the guy at the parts store checked it out, reset it, and said if it comes back, try replacing the gas cap.
The second time it happened, same thing.
I bought a Stant cap at my local parts shop, and had them reset it again. I don't like the Stant cap since it does not fit the retainer correctly, but it sealed fine.
However, the same code came back.
It took a smoke test to identify a leak from the vent tube on top of the fuel tank. The tube was replaced today.
If the code stays gone for a few hundred miles, I'm going to switch back to the original gas cap. I want to make sure the leak is gone before I change anything.
New owner of a 2003 1.8TPassat (29,000mi) as of the last 2 weeks and have just had my MIL come on. Scanned it at home with my Actron CP9125 scanner and got this code (P0455) which reads in the scanners manual as "EVAP Emission Control System Leak (Large)". Didn't know if this was a generic description of the code or VW has a more specific definition. What precisely this is in reference to, gas cap, vacuum hose????? Or what VW's actual description of this code is?
View 3 RepliesHow hard to replace it? I found a minor leak from left crimp clamp, the grease leaks all around it. It looks not too bad, but the grease will leak all out later. I thought there is repair kit on ECS, It seems I can replace brake pad,rotor and cv boots joint in the same day.
View 17 RepliesIt all started with a fuel cap loose light (it wasn't) after a day or two the MIL came on and got this code I reset it but I'm sure it'll come back since there's probably a real leak. What can I check myself to find this leak?
View 11 RepliesThis is the code i pulled from Vag. Its not the gas cap...
VCDS Release 805.0: Generic OBD2
Mode 03: Emission related fault codes
Address 10 (Engine): 1 Fault Found:
P0456 - EVAP System: Very Small Leak Detected
2004 VW touareg v6 - engine light on - autozone diagnosed as code P0456. Possibly gas cap, so I replaced with aftermarket gas cap from auto zone. Light still on. What can I do or replace to fix problem. I read something about a N60 or N80 valve. Is this something I can buy and replace myself. Most of my mechanical experience is related to working on a 85 CJ7 with an inline 6cyl or Chevy trucks. If the N valve is a easy fix, any instructions and pictures of how to do this.
View 1 RepliesCEL came on after a couple of driving cycles showing code P0456 (evap emission control system very small leak detected)............. car drives fine has good gas mileage.....
View 13 RepliesGot a CEL yesterday and it came as an EVAP - major leak... cleared the code, ran the car - HARD....nothing came back up - car runs like a champ....
View 2 RepliesI just got a 06 2.0T and my CEL came on about a week after getting it. I was driving home and the CEL and gas cap light both came on at once. I turned the car off and the CEL light stayed on. I just had the code checked and it came back as a Evap leak and misfire in cylinder 1. I was doing a bit of research and it seems like this is a common problem with these cars. As well getting a new gas cap never works. I have read that a smoke test is the only way to figure out where the problems is as well it could be the carbon canister by the gas tank. I know there was a recall for these when the cars first came out. Has there been a fix for this over the years or is it something I am going to have to trouble shoot?
View 2 Repliesi have a b.5.5 V6 4motion and My check engine stays on the majority of the time. I've had a tech check the code and he tells me its my Evap system. The same tech told me that it was actually pretty useless to repair the problem unless the check engine light bothers me..
View 5 RepliesI've gotten the P0442 "small leak - intermittent" code and "service now" warnings on my 2007 2.0T Passat. I have also occasionally gotten the "check gas cap" warning and icon on the dash, but it always goes away quickly. The car runs fine. The VCDS scan shows as follows:
Address 01: Engine Labels: 06F-907-115-AXX.lbl
Part No SW: 3C0 907 115 S HW: 8P0 907 115 B
Component: 2.0l R4/4V TFSI 0020
Revision: --H14--- Serial number: VWZCZ000000000
Coding: 0404010A19070160
Shop #: WSC 24125 444 85663
VCID: 3041CBF8A31AF19890B
1 Fault Found:
001090 - EVAP Emission Control Sys
P0442 - 001 - Small Leak - Intermittent
[Code] ....
If I clear this code, it comes back within a day or two of driving, but not immediately. I have already replaced the gas cap and N80 valve. The other component I'm aware of possibly failing is the check valve. It's just downstream of the N80 valve, circled in red here:.
I put a vacuum on this part, and it had a very slow leak, losing about 3psi (starting from 20psi) every minute. That seems too small a leak for this to be a problem? Is this thing supposed to be absolutely air tight? Since this part is more expensive ($80) and bit more hassle to replace than the N80 valve, I'd like to know more about this before I just blindly replace it.
If this check valve isn't the problem, then what to check? Although the car runs fine, I need an inspection and would prefer to not have to clear the codes and hope for the best just before taking it in.
Threw this code p0442 evap emission control small leak. I see its a popular code to have....
View 14 RepliesLooking for some insight into the state of the motor in a 2002 XD. Short story is that it appears to be leaking oil from the valve cover gasket (common, I know) and sometimes winds up running extremely low on oil before it gets changed. When draining the minimal oil in these conditions, non insignificant amounts of water can be found along with the drained oil.
Car is at 155k miles, has exhibited this behavior for more than a year, and has no noticeable knocking issues, power loss, mpg loss, heating/cooling issues, or any other ill effects other than apparently making a mess in the engine bay, on the ground where it parks, and scaring people when draining the oil.
Logically this is going to not be the case forever.... Thoughts? Prognosis? Treatment?
I'm feeling a bit embarrassed posting my delima, but I have a minor coolant leak which seams to be coming from where the heater hoses connect to the water pump and as well to the thermostat nuckle thingy. I have replaced all of the hose fittings with SS band clamps.
A couple of weeks ago I replaced the water pump, thermostat, alternator, rad hoses, belts, coolant sensor, PS tension pulley. The water pump is now tight and sealed. Since then the temperature gauge has been continually fluctuating from Normal to near Cold.
I was wondering if I should have placed some type of sealant compound where the heater hoses connect to the water pump and also to the thermostat nuckle thingy.
Initially, I thought it may be residual trapped air in the coolant system. But after a week, it became apparent that the heater hoses were leaking at the engine, and at the water pump, connections.
What puzzles and torments me is why is the temperature gauge fluctuating so widely up and down? This is totally weird.
I'm suspecting a small valve cover gasket leak. I've noticed dirt starting to accumulate near the alternator side of the front valve cover, there is dirt on there stuck to oil, I don't see any wet oil but its so minor the dirt just sticks to it. 107k miles here. Seems to be a common problem. I think Downhiller had a large oil leak, source unknown around his crank pulley area. You wouldn't think a car this young would leak oil. It's not bad, I havn't had to top any off I just like a mildly clean engine.
View 38 Replies2000 Acura Integra 98k miles. Around 90k timing belt, water pump and all sealants were done - and valve adjustment.
Since then I thought that there is a minor loss of coolant - also heard some grinding sound at cold start.
Today in calif, weather is under freezing. I saw handful of coolant under the car where the water pump is. The reserve tank is almost empty - at 95k coolant was topped up.
I went to another mechanic and he wanted to bring the car next week - he will try pressure test - if it is minor leak, it might not work he said - will do other tests. Didn't say the price. Not sure what the fee is for diagnostic.
What are some practical tips? This is the first car now and plan on keeping it. Given it is been about 2yrs with the timing belt job, I am not sure if I have any recourse. Credit card companies only take care if it is within 2 yrs.
Car is a 1995 Chevy Cavlier LS. 2.2L engine, about 127,000 miles. Has a minor coolant leak (freeze-out plug) and a slow oil leak (if I forget to check the level, the oil light comes on about 3000 miles after an oil change). It's beat up, had a few years of poor maintenance (but limited use) before I got it from a relative 3-4 years ago. I do oil changes at 3-5k miles, keeping fluids topped off, and try to remember to change the air filter regularly (which reminds me, I think I'm due for one).
Problem history: About 7 months ago, I had problems with the battery going dead. Some of it related to stupid mistakes--lights on or door ajar. Battery was old, parts store suggested replacing it. New battery fixed the issue. About 2 weeks ago, I tried to start it and ran into the same problem after the car hadn't been run for 2+ days. Dash lights come on, the key-in/startup bell chimes, but turning the key to start leads to fast clicking from the engine and the chime sounding rapidly. I forget if it made any other sounds at the time. Attempting to jump it didn't work, but the other car had an old battery and the cables were kindof cheap.
Called roadside, and he was able to jump it. He suggested taking the battery to Advance, so we did that.Advance charged the battery, tested it, said it was fine. Suggested I bring the car over and they could test to see if it's charging the battery. I did that, and it seemed ok. Engine was a little rough, possibly spark plugs, but I haven't checked that out yet. I figured I had done something stupid again and left a door ajar or the headlights on.Today, same problem again. I last drove it 2-3 days ago. Headlights were definitely off. It's possibly the driver door was ajar causing the dome light to stay on, but I doubt it. Same noises when I turn the key as before, I hear the sound of the engine trying to start once (I think that it's trying to turn over), but it won't start. Haven't had a chance to try and jump it yet.
Possibly relevant: Back in the spring, it wouldn't start one day, but the engine wouldn't do anything, no clicking etc. Neutral safety switch was loose/misaligned. Mechanic was able to make a small adjustment, and it's been fine.
I was draining my separator and noticed some oil accumulating on the bottom of the cylinder head right under the oil fill on the drivers side. My truck is 12 days out of engine warranty.
It's last service was probably around a year ago when the engine was torn down to replace the exhaust valves per the TSB.
My troubles began several months ago when while on the Pike the coolant sensor came on with a heart attack-inducing alarm beep on my 2001 Turbo VW Jetta. The billowing steam pretty much gave away the major coolant leak that had decided to erupt in the engine. Brought it to my local mechanic who promptly fixed the problem. About 2 weeks later, the light came on again, so I brought it back to him. He found some additional minor cracks in the engine tubing. Fixed it again. 2 weeks later....yep, you guessed it, the light comes back on. After 3 more visits with pressure testing and dye added, no leak can be found. We then tried the leak repair stuff....that was about 2 weeks ago now....and, yes, the light has come back on again.
The car is in very good shape with just over 100K miles on it and just had a lot of the biggies done on it in the last year (shocks, belts, brakes). I would love to get another year out of it since I just put all this money into it, but I'm getting tired of having to bring it to the shop every couple of weeks. I also don't want to get stranded if something decides to give way in some spectacular fashion.
So, my questions here:
1. Do I try the repair leak stuff again to see if that will work?
2. Is there any other possible causes that wouldn't require an engine rebuild that we should look at?
3. Do I just suck it up and carry around spare coolant with me topping it up as it gets eaten?
4. Do I call it a day and start looking for a new car?
I have an '04 Super Duty 6.0 and am just a couple hundred miles shy of 200K. The truck seems to be running great and I want to keep it that way. I'd rather invest in some upgrades and longevity than go into debt for a newer truck. What I can upgrade/do to keep this thing going for another 200K? I have replaced all of the injectors, the FICM, turbo, and the EGR valve through attrition. I also have a "very minor oil seepage leak on the lower end" of my engine. I'm not anywhere near mechanically inclined with vehicles, so almost any work that needs to be done will be through a local shop. I keep reading about "bullet proofing" the engine and have found very mixed reviews ranging from "YOU MUST DO THIS" to "it isn't necessary" or "bulletproof products are crap made in China".
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