Passat (B5) :: 1.8T - Sloshing Burble Sound From Heater Core
Nov 2, 2012
I thought the air will be flushed out from the heater core over time. Heater works ok, but can hear a sloshing sound.
Does pressing the rubber heater hoses going to the firewall? Other methods? Take coolant tank cap off once in a while?
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I have a 2001.5 Passat with the ATQ v6 and 5-sp manual tranny. A few weeks ago when I drove it up to Chicago, the heat completely stopped working. Cool air was coming out of the vents. Then when I drove back to Texas, the heater started working again. Now as of yesterday, the heater's out again. My temp sensor has the engine at 190 F, so I don't think it's overheating. One thing I do notice though is when I first start it and shift from first to second (or if I go over a speed bump), I will hear a water sloshing sound as if I'd hit a puddle. Whether it's the heater core that's blocked or perhaps the thermostat?
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I have a base model 2009 Matrix...1.8 liter
I hear water sloshing around behind the dashboard on driver side and when I make turns to the right I can hear what sounds like water boiling and/or steaming.
I am think I need to either unclog the the heater core lines...or replace the heater core entirely.
I do have a little bit of water on the floor of my passenger side...but not a lot and it is clear water.
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Plastic coupling between core and hose, is there a specialty to needed to remove from heater core?
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Truck has recently developed a weird overheat issue. Ill try to give a s much background as possible:
I changed the heater core in the winter and that definitely cured the lack of interior heat issue the truck had since I got it. Blows hard and hot now. (I suspect I should also swap out the rear one too)
On occasional since then I have noticed the odd time a "gurgling sound" in the heater core area. Its not all the time but here and there.
Within the last 3 weeks or so I have gotten a check engine light. I've been a bit too busy to address it, and don't tend to drive very far (work and back) but have downloaded the comp and have a P0174 and P1299. Now just in the last 5 days I have noticed the temp gauge , which is normally firmly parked at about 1/3 in the zone has moved up to nearly the hot area. I can easily bring it back down by using full heat. I have cleared the codes and they haven't returned yet, but I'm suspicious of them non the less.
What can cause lean on only one bank? I have looked at the usual suspects and don't see any obvious leaks. Is it very common to have a intake gasket leak? what's the easiest way to check for that?
My rad appears in good shape although the AC condenser is pretty beat up. I'm definitely going to flush out the coolant, it looks good and used.
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I just put a heater core in a friends passat that was running just fine, drove it into the shop. I pulled the dash and replaced the heater core and put it all back together. Everything works, starter turns over and all but wont fire. I went over everything numerous times to find anything unplugged but all looks fine. Says something about an airbag fault when you turn on the key. Would this prevent startup? what can I do?
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I have an 02 passat with about 85K and the other day my windows would not clear up and a faint smell of antifreeze. also when temp control is in cool and you move the temp control to warm steam comes out of vents. I need to know if i could change this myself and if any procedure on how to do it.
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I have changed the compressor for my lumina LTZ 2001... After that a noisy sound start to appear ... And cooling stopped after a while((around a week)) they told me to change the heater core. And I changed it.After that similar sound start to appear again ... And the cooling start to be reduced gradually ...and then no more cold air..The sound appears infront of the next to driver seat.
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Last week I got a hole in my lower heater coolant line and I did a quick fix and added G12 to get the car home but I got to thinking, the way I'm using this car now, I'm not so sure I need the heater.
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I have a 2010 GMC 3500 Savanah van with 6.0 motor. No heat in van. Engine operating temp is normal. Heater hose into core is hot. Hose coming out is barely warm. I am of course hoping for another explanation other then blocked heater core. The truck only has 45k miles. I am ready to backflush , but wondering if there can be any other explanation. A/C works normal.
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The subjects say's it all, is there a DIY for bypassing the heater core? I already search i couldn't find it...
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I may have to replace the heater core on my 1990 Celebrity. Done from under the hood, or inside the car, under the dash? How difficult is this?
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I have a 2000 F-150 5.4L 4x4. I am currently deployed and my wife has the truck. Just yesterday she told me my heater core went out again the only way she knows this is its the 4th time in just over a year. What would cause a heater core to go out so many times in a short period? What should I have my wife do? I do not want to get rid of my truck and I wont be back for another few months.
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2005 Ford E Series heater core is "always on"?
That is, coolant always circulate through the core, there is no "valve" that turns it on or off.
The HOT / COLD dial opens and closes a door (vacuum operated) that allow air to enter the heater core area?
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I drained all the coolant from the radiator and engine. After I fill up and bleed the air from the system. I'm very sure no air inside the engine. The next day I found have air gurgling inside the heater core. Look like have a small leak but I check all the engine, host and radiator no leaks. The last think to think is heater core and heater core host. How can I check both parts? If they leak. How hard to change? Can I DIY?
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How difficult is it to remove and install a heater core on a 2000 Toyota Camry with 4 cyc ?
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[URL] .... This is interesting! Too bad i just found it last night after i spent the last week removing my entire dashboard steering wheel/column. etc.
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We have a 2006 PT Cruiser. Within a year the Dodge dealer has replaced the heater core five times. They say it's a defective part each time, but I'm not so sure. Usually the core gets a leak after the car has been driven, then parked for a few minutes. When we restart it the heater core blows sending antifreeze vapor out the heater vents.
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My commute into the office was more difficult than usual because of the fumes pouring out of the vents. I have a 1997 F-150 5.4 V8. should I remove both in and out hoses from the firewall and connect them with a plastic fitting not to risk breaking the aluminum fittings on the motor?(There is an advanced a mile away) OR is it possible for me to remove the in hose from the firewall and remove the out hose from the motor, and run the in hose directly into the motor. Are the fittings the same and can I do that with limited time and tools?
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I am working on a friends Neon and he been having an issue with constant overheating even through he has replaced the thermostat, the radiator, water pump and related hoses. However, he is missing the cap to the coolant tank and his heater core hoses are blocked, both incoming and outgoing. Could the blocked hoses be causes it to over heat?
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95 jimmy change the heater core now won't start...
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