Passat (B5) :: 1.8T AWT Fuel Consumption And Power Loss On 2nd And 3rd Gear
May 16, 2011
I had idle travelling problem wich I solved changing AIT sensor. At the same time I cleaned MAF and TB with air sensor cleaner. Now my problem is cold start and driving 2nd and 3rd gear. Instantaneuous fuel consumption will go 20l to 50l driving 2nd and 3rd gear and if I stop values lowers like 20l...16l...10l... and finally on idle it stays in 0.8l/s. Average consumpion has increased 1l to 2l/100km.
These are the air mass readings when I drive 2nd and 3rd gear
rpm ja air mass g/s
1400 9,56
1240 9,22
1240 8,97
1240 8,64
1240 8,47
1200 8,86
1240 8,44
1240 8,31
1240 8,5
1240 8,36
1240 8,17
1240 7,67
1240 7,89
1240 7,89
1480 6,17
2600 7,03
3120 34,14
Full Throttle
2800 48,89
3320 94,11
4040 112,31
4680 135,56
5320 150,31
Turbo asked vs. actual value
1510 1290
1990 1970
1970 1980
1890 1870
1000 1180
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What's happening with my Santa Fe (3.5L AWD). In the past couple of weeks I'm seeing poorer fuel economy (about 15% worse) and the vehicle feels like it is down on power, especially in fifth gear. I mean, the vehicle works and some might not notice, but... There are no warning lights. Engine oil is slightly high (1/4 inch or less) and transmission oil appears to be correctly filled. Don't see leaks from this vehicle on the driveway.
I had an oil change about 3 weeks ago, at a Hyundai dealership, where I switched from regular to synthetic. I was told that no special procedure was required in making that switch, so none was done. About two weeks ago, the stereo system was dead one day. Would not turn on at all. In trying to troubleshoot I pulled the Audio and Radio fuses (there seemed to be three in the dash area), but they were fine and after I reinstalled them the radio worked again. Those are the only maintenance and other issues I've seen in months.
The vehicle has pretty new rear brakes and I don't feel unusual heat there. Could the switch over in oil types or electrical issue with the radio be related? I've done many hundreds of miles since both events.
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I just don't get what causes the Passat 1.8T to have worse fuel economy than expected considering its 0.27 drag coefficient, 3200lbs curb weight, and 4 cylinder 1.8t engine compared to a 3,500lbs 3.4 liter V6 0.31 cod Impala. I mean a new Ford Escape NON Hybrid SUV will get the fuel economy on the highway as a 1.8T Passat and that's sad considering that the Escape has the drag coefficient of a brick and the B5.5 Passats are among the 10 most aerodynamic cars ever sold in North America.
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My wife was driving our 08 B6 yesterday and suddenly had a loss of power. Check engine light was on. Took it to the dealer and we heard back today that the high pressure fuel pump had gone out. I had heard of the TDI's having this problem and I know BMW had to do a recall on the same issue. I didn't know that the 2.0 TSI had this problem.
I'm a little bit concerned 'cause we leased the car for 3 years and didn't have a single problem. I thought it was very solid so we decided to buy the car last month Now my confidence in the car is a little bit rattled.
The car is under warranty. I just hope that this is not the kind of thing that's going to go out every 20K miles! Out of warranty, this repair would have been costly.
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I replace all my spark plugs but my car still has no power and its eating gas like crazy.
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As most of us probably do up in the colder regions, idle time likely increases to some degree. I do have and use the high idle mod unless it's a cold start and the truck does it on it's own during warm up.
I guess what I have always wondered is how much fuel does one actually use during idle? Reason I ask is it has not really hurt the mileage that much at this point from what I have been seeing. Sure it does go down but it's not really bad.
How long do posters here let a truck sit and idle, for instance when running an errand or making a stop?
10 minutes?
20?
Longer?
We all know during cold weather the big over the road trucks will sit for an hour or longer when drivers stop, and most let them run all night if at a truck or rest stop.......granted the circumstances are different.
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Did a little experiment today. I was in Fairbanks this week and today it was between -35* and -40*F. Quite frankly I was too lazy to park my truck behind the building and plug in, so I just left it running.
2015 F350 KR, 63k miles. Fully deleted and tuned with a PPE Ez-Lynk. I've been running the stock tune because mileage seems about the same between all of them and when it's winter with ice and snow, you don't go anywhere fast. 5W40 synthetic oil with 7300 miles on it and 220ish hours. Change engine oil soon light has been on for the last 200 miles and 20 hours.
I have the BD Diesel high idle kit with the rotating switch to adjust the idle level. Fuel consumption was monitored using the truck computer, which I have found to be very accurate on a consistent basis. Computer was reset at the start of each trial.
Trial 1: RPMS set at 1250 via high idle kit. Truck idled for 6 hours, 10 minutes. Fuel consumption was indicated at 5.2 gallons, or roughly .85 gallons per hour. Engine oil temp was about 185*F (remember ambient temp is -40). I was pretty surprised at how much fuel it used.
Trial 2: Back from lunch at Taco King. Figured the truck itself is pretty smart, so if the engine got too cold, it would probably boost the RPMS on it's own. Turned high idle off. Idled for 4 hours 15 minutes. Fuel consumption was 1.8 gallons, or roughly .43 gallons per hour. Engine oil temp was 150*F. Much more reasonable consumption.
.85 gallons an hour is pretty expensive but .43 gallons an hour is much, much more economical.
The biggest difference, besides fuel consumption, was engine oil temperature with a 35* difference. Is 150*F a safe, sustainable oil temperature for these engines to idle at without causing excessive wear?
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So, my 2005 Gen II Prius went for a scheduled service on Wednesday, 70k miles, Toyota main dealer. They called and said it needed new front brake pads and disks, I was surprised but gave the go ahead. There would occasionally have been a mild squealing sound from the brakes at very low speed so I accepted the pads might need replacing, I was surprised the disks needed replacing but it hard to argue about brakes, especially as I only have the car a year (I'm the second owner and it has a full Toyota service history). It had a "major" service, new spark plugs, new front brake pads and disks.
Since collecting it I've noticed that the engine seems to kick in more often and needs higher revs. The fuel consumption seems higher, normally mid 50's MPG (imperial gallon) now 35MPG. However it hasn't been driven many miles since its been serviced so its a low distance for calculating MPG. I've also noticed that the car seems to slow more quickly without applying the brakes, a regularly driven hill that I coast down at 48kph now only gives 35kph. Also, if I drive on a flat road for a mile or 2 and coast to a stop the front brake disks feel VERY hot, way too hot to touch, drivers side more so that passenger side.
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When I go out to do errands around town (I live right in town) I get horrendous gas mileage. Now, I understand gas mileage is high at the beginning of a trip, but for this long and this high and under these circumstances? I'm getting ABOVE 10l/100km when I have 80% charge available (for americans, that's disgustingly high MPG like, pick-up truck high), AND my foot is completely off the gas. Literally, coasting, or braking, and I'm still sucking up gas. What the heck?
Is this just because it takes a certain amount of time for the engine to run no matter what or something? I still don't see any reason for me to be eating up all that gas when my foot isn't even on the gas AND most importantly, I have charge available. Feels pointless for me to use my car for what I use it for 70% of the time, which is for quick errands around town at low speeds. Thought the prius was suppose to be a superstar for this kind of thing.
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What is the hourly fuel consumption for a Toyota Prius at idle? Purpose is keep cabin warm for 8 hours. Would this damage engine?
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About 3 weeks ago I purchased my MK7 GTI SE w/ DSG. About a week ago, I started noticing a very slight rasp around 3.5k and up under heavy WOT. Note the sound was very subtle in the cabin and unsure what it sounded like outside. This past weekend, I started noticing a loss in power, especially after 2nd gear. A strange sound under throttle--almost sounds like a supercharger winding down (hollow with a slight whine)--when giving a good bit of gas around 2.5k and up occurs. At first I though it was road noise from my neighborhoods new roads since the sound only occurs on new roads, but realized that noise never occurred the first few weeks I had the car. No CEL.
I took it to the dealership on a rainy day, so they couldn't see the loss of power with the car breaking loose, but they didn't find anything. I'm bringing it back this Friday to see what they can find. I talked with one of the service guys today and they think it may be a drivetrain problem. Supposedly no loose hoses and is holding boost normally. Any leads to what it may be??
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I have a 2003 S-10 standard and a similar conditions as this discussion, but my issue is not with the engine bogging down. The engine RPMs increase, but the truck does not pick up speed until I let the engine settle, then push the gas again. If I drive too long the truck will start doing this in 3rd and not just when I shift gears. It's like the power is just not making it to the wheels. There's a disconnect in the power transfer or something.
The clutch (clutch kit), flywheel, master and slave cylinders, and the lines to the cylinders have all been replaced; some twice. I just had the transmission and differential fluids replaced. Is this a transmission issue or could this still be something to do with the clutch? Or is it something else entirely?
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My wife was driving to work today and she called me when she was almost to work and said that when she was at the red-light and said when she started from the red-light the car was fine and she hit a certain rpm and the rpm's dropped and there was a strong smell of fuel. The car was still running and would idle fine but was running almost like it was flooded or had a miss like a coil pack or spark plug. There was no check engine so I am not sure I haven't got to look at the car yet.
I forgot to mention a few months back she had a check engine for the intake manifold runner flap called the dealer and set up an appointment to take it in. Took it up and by the time we got there the check engine was off and car was running fine no issues. They said no sense in bringing it in now just set another appointment if it comes back on which it never has and still isn't on but I am wondering if this problem is related to that? I know for sure that the car is still covered under the enhanced warranty for the injectors and intake manifold.
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I live in NM. It's been excessively hot here this summer, 95+ daily for the past 2 months.
Yesterday while I was driving I noticed a weird feel in the accelerator pedal. Almost like a mini-misfire. It was intermittent. Maybe did it 6 or so times in a 10 minute time span. My wife couldn't feel it in the passenger seat but I definitely felt it through the pedal. There was no MIL light during or after the incident.
We get home, she gets out on the passenger side and there was a strong fuel smell (tank, filler, and filter are on that side). By the time I got the car up in the air and the rear passenger tire off and fender liner out the smell had dissipated (probably evaporated due to the high temperature). There were no noticeable leaks. No dripping. Before I had it in the air I definitely smelled fuel underneath the car around the rear passenger side. I opened the hood and didn't smell or see anything in the engine bay.
I called VW customer care and they informed me this recall of the fuel tank ventilation valve was performed back in 2009 but the symptoms explained in the recall are exactly what I experienced. I verified the recall was done using my VIN number search on NHTSA's Safer Car site.
I can imagine that although the recall was done 7 years ago, it's still possible for this ventilation valve to fail. Especially because the recall states high ambient temps are a factor.
I have a legit VCDS but have not scanned it yet. Wife is off today so I took her car. I plan to go home, scan the car, and try to reproduce the issue before taking the fender liner out again. I have the means to do my own work but if I have to do something like drop the fuel tank I'll probably take it in.
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I changed the throttle body , PCV , clean the EGR tube and put new gasket in my Prius B 2010 hybrid.
The car was burn oil 1/2 liter per 1500km and since I changed the throttle body I noticed that the car burn 1/2 liter per 400 km .The job by the dealer.
Is there any problem in the installation?
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We have two counters on MFD (1-trip data and 2-accumulated data), none of them show the gas consumption.
Every time I stop at gas station I have to divide distance by average gas consumption to know, beforehand, how many liters to top up the tank.
Question is: Is it possible to use VCDS to make the MFD show that information once it is obviously known by the board computer?
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Having problems where sometimes the car won't go into gear, other times it's fine? The problem started after some hard acceleration in 3rd, there was what felt like a momentary loss in power. I dipped the clutch as I thought a boost pipe had popped off, all was fine (still seeing boost when revved). After this it got progressively harder to get gears, finally resulting in not being able to get into gear at all.
I found I could get it into 1st with the engine off and could go up gears normally, but couldn't change down without stopping and turning the engine off. The clutch is working fine, the biting point is normal. The problem seams to come and go randomly, it will work fine for a while and then start playing up again. When working the gearbox feels normal, there is no grinding or wining noises. I can move between gears normally and do clutch less gear changes.
There is now a vibration which can be felt at 1000rpm when stationary. It feels like it coming from the engine/gearbox and seems like something is out of balance as it shakes the whole car. The car is on 91k, supercharged running 470hp & 370lb/ft (at flywheel) and is fitted with a Spec stage 3+ clutch and solid flywheel.
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My dad's Camry (which I also drive), has been having a problem since a couple of months now. Whenever I floor the vehicle, you can feel the power kick in but after a couple seconds you can feel a slightly lack of power. Its not like the car doesn't accelerates, but it does feels like if you release the pedal a bit.
The car also has the following issues:
-Shifting problems: The car has been having shifting problems due to the automatic transmission fluid temperature sensor (don't know if this may cause the ecu to go in some sort of "emergency mode" and reduce the power a bit)
-Strong fuel smell after driving: After some driving, you can smell fuel mainly at the back of the car.
I'm thinking in about changing the sparkplugs as we have never done it to the car. Car has 80.000km (50.000 miles) Car is a Toyota Camry 2007 V6 3.5 2GR-FE
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We have a 2002 Sante Fe with v6 and 270,000 km on it. Just had extreme loss of power and jerky acceleration from a stop. This has happened a few times in the past year and each time with a 1/4 tank of fuel? We pulled into a gas station, filled it up and away we go like nothing was wrong?
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My 2001 L.L.Bean Edition H6-3.0 is losing power & MPG on the fwy. Sometimes it will feel like something is holding it back or dragging. I've checked the brake calipers and they're not sticking, changed the air filter, oil & filter, transmission fluid, and still cannot find the problem. I've overfilled the gas tank and read this can damage the charcoal canister. Will a saturated charcoal canister cause a drop in power and MPG? What should I check out next?
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I have an 04 Ford Explorer XLT 4.0 Flex Fuel. There has been loss of power to fuel pump. Relay and fuse both good, replaced the inertia switch...still nothing. Could a FPDM (fuel pump driver module) have anything to do with this issue? Or what should I check next? I am definitely at a loss as to what the issue could be! I know it is fuel related because I used starting fluid and it started right up and run for just a few seconds, so that should rule out ignition I think.
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