Passat :: 2007 2.0T - Worsening Start Up
Oct 4, 2010
I have a 2.0T that sometimes drags a bit when starting the car. It seems to be getting worse with time. A few weeks ago it would only drag every once in a while before starting right up. Now it seems to drag when turning over more often, once every other start. The severity of the dragging also seems to be escalating, to the point now that it might not start up.
I believe it is a starter that is going bad, but not sure. The battery has a good charge on it while the car is off, and while the car is running. I put an amp clamp on the starter cable, and most of the starts were around 180 amps at start up. However, when it would drag real bad the amps would shoot up to around 350 amps at start up. What the Cold Cranking Amps are on these factory starters?
Should I go ahead and get a starter for the car, and then go from there.
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My 2.0T Passat sedan will not start for 3 weeks now. It is at a dealer and they seem to be unsure what to do for it. I see there is alot of this issue with the 3.6 wagon, but is it a growing problem for the sedan as well? My service advisor indicated to me that there are several others at their shop with the same problem.
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So both of my Key Fobs stopped working. Replaced the batteries in both. They both still start the car, but neither will unlock. I have tried to re-program them via the steps in the owners manual, but that did not work. The light on the fobs flashes red when any button is pushed.
It is a 2007 Passat base. No fancy features. Dealer said I would need a new key, which didn't make any since since it still starts the car....
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My 2007 Passat Wagon has a weird problem. Sometimes, it failed to start engine. The only signal on the panel is the red battery sign. I need to reinsert the key and try again. It does not happen every time.
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My '07 Passat 3.6L with 107k miles.
It's a short story luckily haha. Every single time I refuel the car, I have to hold the key in the start position for about 10 seconds before the car actually starts running. This ONLY happens when the car has just been refueled. It does manage to start every time but only after the starter has been cranking for about 10 seconds.
I'm thinking of ordering a new fuel filter at the same time I order some maintenance parts for my .:R32 but I don't think the fuel filter is the issue. I'm also going to order new spark plugs soon but unfortunately they're not available from the place I'm ordering the other parts from.
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Several weeks ago I was getting an airbag fault. I brought my car in to get the female part of the seatbelt changed out. Less then a week later I started having issues with my ignition! It's not sensing the key being in, and won't start the car. Pushing the key in to start the car nothing happens, the radio doesn't turn on, with the drivers door open it doesn't give the warning that your keys are still in the ignition...it doesn't do anything?!? Now the dealership (that I've had a good relationship with) is trying to sell me an ignition. I'm curious if it's their screw up when changing out the seatbelt? can't afford to put another $300+ dollars into the car!
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I just wanted to go to the store but the car won't does anything. not quite sure how to describe it but when i insert key and press it will not start, just clicking sound from underneath the steering wheel. also, the icons on the dashboard blink, turn on and off, car graphic in the middle is partially faded. the trunk will not open. also, key gets stacked in, took my five minutes to get it out. not sure what is going on.
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When I start the car after its been sitting for a few hours it takes at least 10 minutes to the ac to start blowing cold air. If it sits for less than an hour cold air comes out right away. Went to the dealer last summer and everything was working to spec, of course...
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I've been having an intermittent problem starting our 2007 Passat 2.0T. Sometimes when I insert the key fob into its slot the car starts then stalls immediately. The steering wheel icon is displayed and the MFD says "Steering column lock malfunction". The car eventually starts after several attempts but I'm wondering what's causing the problem
My wife are both guilty of two things that I've read in the manual and I'm thinking that may have contributed or is causing the problem. We both insert the key and push it in to start the car in one motion. The book says to do it in three motions. We also do not depress the brake pedal when starting the car.
Needless to say we are not going to that anymore. If I may have done damage to the steering column and its associated parts?
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I have a 2007 Passat 2.0t Sedan. My wife broke the front engine mount this morning and now it will crank, but will not start. Put my code reader on it and it is throwing camshaft position sensor, misfire cyl. 4, fuel rail pressure low, and Mass Air Flow sensor codes. It looks like the insert of the mount is wedged against the belt. Would the engine mount being broken cause any of these codes for some reason? and would the mount against the belt cause it to not start?
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Car battery was dead, got a new battery from Walmart and replaced.
After that, from time to time, the engine would not start when pushing the start button, sometimes it takes 2 or 3 tries to get the engine to start. This has never happened before.
What is the reason for it, could it be that the walmart battery is not as powerful as the previous LEXUS battery? or something else?
By the way the car is due for an engine oil change with the warning light on. I use Mobile 1 fully synthetic 0w20 and the light went on every 5000 miles.
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When lock button on the remote is pressed twice and held for 3rd time , lights flash but car won't start. I just put fresh battery in remote Haven't used remote start since last winter..
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2008 ls 460 won't start when I press brake and start engine button. Car battery is strong. Tried two different keys. Start engine button has green light and when push all dash lights come but engine does nothing. Tried holding Lexus emblem on key next to button and pressing unlock button on key several times. Nothing?
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about 18 months ago my 2008 LS 460 wouldn't start after numerous attempts and displayed an error saying "Check VSC...". While waiting for the tow truck, I hit the start again randomly and bam! car started up.
The next morning, the car started up great again so I drove it to the dealership and told them about everything that happen. They said it was probably a bad battery. They changed out the battery (it was 26 months old) and said everything would be fine. A couple weeks later the car would jump and lurch during slow speed accelerations so brought back in. Nothing could be replicated so took car home. Car kept acting up and went to another dealership. After having the car for 3 days the mechanic replicated the issue and said a chip needed to be reset. After that....LS was back to great self.
Then today, car won't start and get "Check VSC..." error message. It's Sunday afternoon, so just called auto parts store and get new battery. Put new battery in and "Check VSC...." error message gone, BUT car still won't start.
When push button, hear one click and then nothing. All the lights come on, AC can blow, stereo can play, but car just sits there. Checked the battery cables for corrosion and while there was a little on the old battery the cables look good.
Is there any type of reset I can do that needs to happen after changing the battery or anything like a Windows reboot that can happen? I get the sense this is all computer issues and not actually anything mechanical. My LS only has 87k miles and has followed all the maintenance recommended so I'd really like to break 15 years or 200k miles .
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So my Passat won't start. Last night I went to turn it on, and half way through the start up sequence it quit. Now when I turn the key I get nothing. There's power to the headlights and everything, and the mechanic I've talked to said it's probably the battery anyways. When I do turn the key, you can hear the clicking under the hood, so I'm semi-optimistic that it's not the starter.
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I just Installed a RTX HID Kit for my Passat 2014. I followed this guide.
The Lights work perfectly when the Engine is off but when I start the car, the lights start flashing like its missing the 12V required to run. Did I miss something? Do I need to Install a resistance?
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So I picked up a 2002 passat 1.8T autotragic from a guy because a shop said it had a bad computer. After bringing it home and talking to some local volkswagen mechanics they said it couldn't be the computer because the car would still crank. I jumped the trigger wires and the car starts right up no problems and runs perfect for sitting for a year. My question is what could be the problem? I changed the ignition switch and replaced the 40amp fuse by the computer. I am trying to flip the car so I am hoping its not a big problem and have to part the car out.
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Well I finally got my car. 2007 Passat 2.0t auto sport package. Silver with black interior. Seems real lazy down low. Maybe I will do the chip down the road. My only question is whats the damn secret to getting the key out? For some reason it just will not come out. I have to fiddle with the shifter button every time. What am I doing wrong?
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Passat b6 2007 2.0fsi AC possible failure ... Wife came home the other night, said the car stalled out. Since then there has been no AC, i scanned with ross-tech and got no code thrown. Checked all fuses under hood and drivers dash. No blown fuses ? Ac lines have pressure.
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I have a question about the placement of the resonator. I have searched but I would just like confirmation due to the fact that I only found 1 thread with pics.
Following the tips, what is the correct order. I believe that it is tips, muffler, and then the large resonator. Meaning that the resonator is the closest to the engine. Also, correct me if I'm wrong but there is only 1 resonator in the b6 2.0t right.
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I have a 2007 2.0T and about two weeks ago the car started jerking while accelerating. It only does it when the engine is cold. Sometimes it does it more than others. Shortly after the engine reaches its normal operating temperature, it stops jerking.
I scanned the computer with my VAG-COM but there are not DTCs. I originally suspected the oxygen sensor but the jerking happens even before the oxygen sensor kicks in. So even when is running a fuel rich mixture prior to getting feedback from the O2 sensor it jerks sometimes.
I have just under 55K miles, so I am not sure about the spark plugs but I find it strange that once the car warms up it stops doing it. The cam follower got replaced about 12K miles ago. The air filter is due for change soon but I don't think that is the problem, last time I looked at it (about 3K miles ago, it didn't look that dirty). I need to check this one again...haven't had time lately.
The only thing that was done recently to the car was the replacement of the transmission valve body under the powertrain warranty. The first few days everything worked okay but then a few days after the repair the jerking started. Could this be a symptom of tranny issues?
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