Park Avenue :: Will Not Start Until Back Off The Key Just A Little Bit
Sep 24, 2014
When I try to start my 96 Park Avenue sometimes it will not start until I back off the key just a little bit. I have replaced both ignition switches,starter and starter relay. along with new ignition key with the correct pellet resistance. The problem still persists. I really can not use a volt meter to check for voltage at starter terminals since the issue is very intermittent. I have checked and cleaned the battery terminals and the battery is ok, only one year old. I have head lights that do not dim when problem occurs. The only thing left I believe is the related wiring.
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PA Base 149,000 miles . My car doesn't start every time. Sometimes I have to wait for a few minutes before it does, meaning, when I turn the key, it does nothing. There's no cluttering or blinking of lights or anything else that would indicate a bad starter, bad battery or electrical issue.
I've had the battery, starter and alternator checked and my mechanic says that everything is good. He thinks its the ignition key or the security system is going bad.
I purchased a new key two weeks ago and it started up every time until earlier today.
In the speedometer and odometer section, specifically the 'Park, R, N, D, 2, 1' section, there's an orange pin-like indicator that moves when you change gears. Mine is stuck between the '2 and 1', even when I place the car in park, reverse or drive. Could this be any cause to my vehicle not starting?
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ok so i have this park ave. that i had a new key cut. started and ran fine. then it shut down. nothing showed in error codes. now i insert key in ignition and security light on dash blinks. turn ignition to on(run) security light goes out. tried the 30min relearn for key with no results.
where is the BCM located? is there a decent diagram of where? last diagram i used said the ECM was located by evap. can. damn thing is located in the air filter assembly!
the fuel system is charging. but not staying charged. no cranking of the starter.
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1992 Buick Park Avenue, Base. For awhile now I've had trouble shifting into park from other gears. Sometimes, it'll flow right into park without trouble. Other times, I have to work it, to kind of baby it in. However, it simply will not shift into park from reverse. Period. If I'm in reverse and want to park, I have to go into drive, neutral, etc, and then try to move it into park.
A mechanic I know looked at the neutral safety switch and thought it could be causing the problem. We figured it wasn't in the steering column or the cable to the switch because if we disconnect the cable, you can slide that lever all day long. So I purchased a new neutral safety switch and had him install it, but the same problem is there. Actually, let me clarify: while it was in his garage, with the old switch, it would no longer go into park at all, regardless (kind of decided to just stop altogether). At least with the new switch we can baby it into park, but it is basically back to where it was last week. He mentioned it might be deeper in the transmission, but that's out of his league.
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I just purchased a 2001 Park Ave Base. The DIC, A/C and Radio lights will randomly dim so low that they cant be seen during the day and I have no cluster lights at all. I have checked the fuses and ensured that the dimmer is all the way up (just before clicking on the interior lights which do come on) and have found nothing.
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Where I could get a front driver side window regulator I am having a problem finding one and tired of the window going up and down slow due to the window ending up on the wrong side of the rubber.
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92 PA Base
It's that time again for vehicle inspection and my horn has been blowing fuses. I had it diagnosed by the dealership and they stated the horn pad inside the steering wheel is bad. They also stated the horn pads for my model of PA has been discontinued and that I should install an aftermarket horn. If I don't have this horn installed I'll fail the inspection.
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92 PA, 134,000 miles
I'm constantly getting a 'Code 41' and now my fuel economy is almost 100 miles less than usual on a full tank. I was wondering what could be causing the decrease of fuel economy?
Also, direct me to the location of the cam sensor and the directions for replacing. I've tried the AutoZone site to locate it but it was difficult to decipher.
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Yesterday all four of my power windows stopped working in my 99 PA. The radio also has no power. I checked all the fuses in both fuse boxes (under the rear seat and in engine compartment.) Everything checks out... what am I missing?
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I have an '85 Buick Electra. The "check engine soon" light comes on when I brake, stays on for awhile after I stop braking, and then goes on. There have been a couple of times when it just comes on but the majority of the time, it's when I brake.
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92 PA Base
146,000 miles
I noticed that the coolant in the reservoir has been going low and I've been having to replenish it, in addition to the many different locations of small puddles of fluid under my car. Obviously there must be a leak somewhere. I conducted a pressure test on the radiator and detected a leak on a hose connected to the engine near the water pump was not tight. After tightening I pumped 16 lbs. of pressure and found the second leak; up between the rear valve cover and upper manifold.
My question is can coolant leak from the valve covers or is it coming from the manifold? I'm going to change the valve cover gaskets anyway since repairs need to be done in that area.
What are estimates if taken to a master tech: if manifold is leaking and replacing it along with the valve cover gaskets, or just replacing valve cover gaskets. Located in Indy.
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I saw there was a service bulletin for this problem but could not access the bulletin. What can I do to tighten this mirror up.It does not have a screw just a clip. I tried bending the clip but no dice. Can I wedge something in there to tighten it up? This is the one on the windshield.
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92 PA Base ... Attempting to replace water pump. Is a hydraulic jack required to hold up the engine when removing the engine mount? The engine mount (passenger side front) is covering the right portion of the water pump. Although the engine mount has two holes for the remainder bolts of the water pump, there's no room to fit a ratchet or anything to remove the remaining two bolts. It appears the mount must be removed to replace the water pump. Is this so? How to correctly remove the engine mount.
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My interior lights are staying on all the time, What is the part number for the switch that I need?
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2001 Park Avenue has an issue that manifests itself every now and then. When I try to start engine nothing happens. Sometimes after turning key 3, 4 or 5 times it will start normally. I'm a little worried that one day it isn't going to start.... Using the original key, so I don't think that it's a problem with that. Have read that a faulty BCM can be responsible for a no-start condition, but that wouldn't be an intermittent occurrence would it?
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I have had the LF strut mount fail three times in the last three months. The strut has pushed through the upper mount. The guy a bought the car from said he had the struts replaced about a year ago. Could it be a bad strut?
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2300k engine. Car stopped running on highway during a rain storm. Checked spark and its ok.checked compression and its ok. Fuel is at 45 psi at port. Changed crankshaft positioning sensor. Dont know what else to check? Still wont start!
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Got 98 PA with near 300k. A few months ago the rear passenger door would sometimes not unlock with either the switch or manual latch. Gradually got worse. Then the rear door lock on the drivers side did the same thing. Now I am stuck with both rear doors locked.
The electric switch does make a clicking sound at the door, but does not move the lock enough. I cannot force the manual latch back far enough to unlock the door. How to attack this problem and make it a 4 door car again?
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Cruise control engages normally, holds the set speed, but after a few minutes it disengages. It feels that same as when you lightly tap the brake pedal to disconnect the cruise. Bad brake switch or something else?
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My speedometer has shot craps. This started a couple months back by occasionally dropping to zero then raising back to indicated speed. I know this car doesn't have a cable and is all electronic. The problem is that I just moved to Ohio from Arizona and can't find my little (kinda worthless Haynes manual so that I can maybe trace the wiring out and find what drives/affects the speedometer.
I don't think the speedometer it's self has gone bad because when I turn the key off it drops to negative zero which tells me that mechanism is at least still breathing.
What ancilary items I can check/replace to maybe get this thing working again? Where is the ESS? This is an 88 Park avenue
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Windshield wipers quit working. Wiper fluid still squirts. Fuse is good. Looking for any information for troubleshooting further.
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