Park Avenue :: Idling And Stalling - Misfires Occasionally At Higher RPMs
Jun 25, 2014
1992 Buick Park Avenue - Base
This morning my serpentine belt tore and slapped everything for a few minutes and I'll be receiving a new one tomorrow or the day after, but that's not the trouble, I just feel it's related as that is when this problem started. In the last 2 months I have replaced the Cam sensor and interrupter, timing chain and tensioner were in good shape. replaced the ICM, coils, wires, and plugs and used dielectric grease on all connectors, including the cam sensor and new crank sensor, also replaced the harmonic balancer, fuel pump, filter, pressure regulator, PCV valve, alternator, and a new pigtail is coming for the cam sensor as some of the wires had bare spots. This plug is currently taped and shoved out of the way, not plugged in, and has been for a week, so I doubt it's relevant.
This issue is : The car fires up fine, but has great difficulty idling and stalls too often to drive after a few minutes. At higher RPMs it only misses or misfires occasionally. With the serpentine belt off, the car idles much smoother. Tonight I plan to try tightening the harmonic balancer again, running the with MAP sensor unplugged, again with the exhaust O2 sensor removed.
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Car has been stalling when stopped sitting in driveway or when slowing down for a red light or stop sign. Sometimes starts right away others takes 20 minutes. No codes no service engine light. Being told camshaft sensor crankshaft sensor egr valve. Got all data at library did egr test all indicate it is good. Did not have enough time to print out info on the sensors
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92 PA Base, 141,000 mls
Whenever I have to drive for more than 50 - 75 miles or for one hour at a constant speed, the engine causes the car to buck and loose acceleration. When I press the gas pedal down to the floor, the rpm's stay at zero or when I lightly press the gas pedal, it would accelerate but with noticeable hesitation and difficulty. I go from maintaining speeds of 70 miles down to 40 miles. It also feels like no fuel is getting to the engine. This causes me to pull over for a few minutes, shut the engine off, and then its okay to drive for a few more miles.
I replaced the fuel filter and the MAF sensor. When I changed the MAF, I noticed that the bottom portion of the old one where the little wires are, was broken. I really thought that was the issue but when I replaced it, it started doing the same thing. What should I check or replace next?
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I have a 1997 Dodge Dakota V8 (automatic) with about 140k and live in Vermont. Recently, my truck will konk out while I am sitting at a red light. As I'm sitting there, the RPM's keep going down below 700, until finally stalling out completely. When I shift into Park/Neutral then turn ignition, it will start right back up again. To get around this, I have been shifting into Neutral while I wait at the light, then back into Drive when it turns green. I have recently installed a new battery and exhaust system. I am wondering if this is occurring because of worn plugs, a dirty air filter, cracked vacuum hose, or bad alternator?
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1992 Buick Park Avenue, Base. For awhile now I've had trouble shifting into park from other gears. Sometimes, it'll flow right into park without trouble. Other times, I have to work it, to kind of baby it in. However, it simply will not shift into park from reverse. Period. If I'm in reverse and want to park, I have to go into drive, neutral, etc, and then try to move it into park.
A mechanic I know looked at the neutral safety switch and thought it could be causing the problem. We figured it wasn't in the steering column or the cable to the switch because if we disconnect the cable, you can slide that lever all day long. So I purchased a new neutral safety switch and had him install it, but the same problem is there. Actually, let me clarify: while it was in his garage, with the old switch, it would no longer go into park at all, regardless (kind of decided to just stop altogether). At least with the new switch we can baby it into park, but it is basically back to where it was last week. He mentioned it might be deeper in the transmission, but that's out of his league.
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Sometimes I will stop at a light and my idling rpm will go from 600 (usual rate she idles at) to about 950. While this may seem inconsequential in the grand scheme of things, it's noticeable enough that it seems like the car wants to go. It'll lead me to depress the brake more. You can also hear the higher pitch of the faster turning engine (it is a 50% increase in speed). This will happen at random times so I have not been able to pinpoint if it is caused by a particular driving style. ECM for this?
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PA Base 149,000 miles . My car doesn't start every time. Sometimes I have to wait for a few minutes before it does, meaning, when I turn the key, it does nothing. There's no cluttering or blinking of lights or anything else that would indicate a bad starter, bad battery or electrical issue.
I've had the battery, starter and alternator checked and my mechanic says that everything is good. He thinks its the ignition key or the security system is going bad.
I purchased a new key two weeks ago and it started up every time until earlier today.
In the speedometer and odometer section, specifically the 'Park, R, N, D, 2, 1' section, there's an orange pin-like indicator that moves when you change gears. Mine is stuck between the '2 and 1', even when I place the car in park, reverse or drive. Could this be any cause to my vehicle not starting?
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I just purchased a 2001 Park Ave Base. The DIC, A/C and Radio lights will randomly dim so low that they cant be seen during the day and I have no cluster lights at all. I have checked the fuses and ensured that the dimmer is all the way up (just before clicking on the interior lights which do come on) and have found nothing.
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When I try to start my 96 Park Avenue sometimes it will not start until I back off the key just a little bit. I have replaced both ignition switches,starter and starter relay. along with new ignition key with the correct pellet resistance. The problem still persists. I really can not use a volt meter to check for voltage at starter terminals since the issue is very intermittent. I have checked and cleaned the battery terminals and the battery is ok, only one year old. I have head lights that do not dim when problem occurs. The only thing left I believe is the related wiring.
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Where I could get a front driver side window regulator I am having a problem finding one and tired of the window going up and down slow due to the window ending up on the wrong side of the rubber.
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92 PA Base
It's that time again for vehicle inspection and my horn has been blowing fuses. I had it diagnosed by the dealership and they stated the horn pad inside the steering wheel is bad. They also stated the horn pads for my model of PA has been discontinued and that I should install an aftermarket horn. If I don't have this horn installed I'll fail the inspection.
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92 PA, 134,000 miles
I'm constantly getting a 'Code 41' and now my fuel economy is almost 100 miles less than usual on a full tank. I was wondering what could be causing the decrease of fuel economy?
Also, direct me to the location of the cam sensor and the directions for replacing. I've tried the AutoZone site to locate it but it was difficult to decipher.
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Yesterday all four of my power windows stopped working in my 99 PA. The radio also has no power. I checked all the fuses in both fuse boxes (under the rear seat and in engine compartment.) Everything checks out... what am I missing?
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I have an '85 Buick Electra. The "check engine soon" light comes on when I brake, stays on for awhile after I stop braking, and then goes on. There have been a couple of times when it just comes on but the majority of the time, it's when I brake.
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92 PA Base
146,000 miles
I noticed that the coolant in the reservoir has been going low and I've been having to replenish it, in addition to the many different locations of small puddles of fluid under my car. Obviously there must be a leak somewhere. I conducted a pressure test on the radiator and detected a leak on a hose connected to the engine near the water pump was not tight. After tightening I pumped 16 lbs. of pressure and found the second leak; up between the rear valve cover and upper manifold.
My question is can coolant leak from the valve covers or is it coming from the manifold? I'm going to change the valve cover gaskets anyway since repairs need to be done in that area.
What are estimates if taken to a master tech: if manifold is leaking and replacing it along with the valve cover gaskets, or just replacing valve cover gaskets. Located in Indy.
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I saw there was a service bulletin for this problem but could not access the bulletin. What can I do to tighten this mirror up.It does not have a screw just a clip. I tried bending the clip but no dice. Can I wedge something in there to tighten it up? This is the one on the windshield.
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92 PA Base ... Attempting to replace water pump. Is a hydraulic jack required to hold up the engine when removing the engine mount? The engine mount (passenger side front) is covering the right portion of the water pump. Although the engine mount has two holes for the remainder bolts of the water pump, there's no room to fit a ratchet or anything to remove the remaining two bolts. It appears the mount must be removed to replace the water pump. Is this so? How to correctly remove the engine mount.
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My interior lights are staying on all the time, What is the part number for the switch that I need?
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2001 Park Avenue has an issue that manifests itself every now and then. When I try to start engine nothing happens. Sometimes after turning key 3, 4 or 5 times it will start normally. I'm a little worried that one day it isn't going to start.... Using the original key, so I don't think that it's a problem with that. Have read that a faulty BCM can be responsible for a no-start condition, but that wouldn't be an intermittent occurrence would it?
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I have had the LF strut mount fail three times in the last three months. The strut has pushed through the upper mount. The guy a bought the car from said he had the struts replaced about a year ago. Could it be a bad strut?
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2300k engine. Car stopped running on highway during a rain storm. Checked spark and its ok.checked compression and its ok. Fuel is at 45 psi at port. Changed crankshaft positioning sensor. Dont know what else to check? Still wont start!
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