Where I could get a front driver side window regulator I am having a problem finding one and tired of the window going up and down slow due to the window ending up on the wrong side of the rubber.
View 6 RepliesI have a 1988 Buick PA Electra. Car idles rough and shaky at a stop light. When warmed up service engine light comes on for a few seconds then goes off. I've changed ignition coil box, wires, plugs, ignition module, fuel injectors, fuel filter. It seems like there may be a vacuum leak. Car has only 114,000 miles on it and I don't want to give up on her. Before this she was running smooth.
View 4 RepliesI purchased this vehicle this week.69k miles..driving 25 miles to my home the temp. control beeped...near my home...my son added near 1 gal of anti freeze....that night there seemed to be a small amount of leakage under the radiator (but none since that date 11/24/14 or 2 + days ago ).. the coolant level in the radiator appeared down 1 inch on one check. On the last check after running and then off...the radiator level was up to the top and the reservoir level was at 1 inch. My son thought there might be a fine/mist spraying in the area near the left lower side of the radiator..since that time with the motor running I placed a piece of file folder down near where he thought there was a mist and saw none on the folder... this car was owed my an elderly person and likely was not driven often of late.
View 4 RepliesI recently acquired a 1992 Buick Park Ave. My problem is that she shakes as i slow down and stalls when I stop. Usually about 10 minutes or so of driving. It doesn't stall every time but less when i baby the brake (i think) Its getting worse quickly and I've changed the spark plug wires and that didn't work also the previous owner recently changed the Cam sensor yet I'm getting a code 41.
View 14 RepliesOk, here is the problem: 1997 Buick Park Ave driver's door will not open from inside or outside. It will not unlock. The inside lock/unlock button will not move to unlock position. Using the key from outside will not unlock the door. This happened on the coldest day of the year (15 degrees). I'd love to take off the door panel to look inside but I can't open the door! I'm getting tired of entering and exiting the car from the passenger door!
View 3 Replies1992 Buick Park Avenue, Base. For awhile now I've had trouble shifting into park from other gears. Sometimes, it'll flow right into park without trouble. Other times, I have to work it, to kind of baby it in. However, it simply will not shift into park from reverse. Period. If I'm in reverse and want to park, I have to go into drive, neutral, etc, and then try to move it into park.
A mechanic I know looked at the neutral safety switch and thought it could be causing the problem. We figured it wasn't in the steering column or the cable to the switch because if we disconnect the cable, you can slide that lever all day long. So I purchased a new neutral safety switch and had him install it, but the same problem is there. Actually, let me clarify: while it was in his garage, with the old switch, it would no longer go into park at all, regardless (kind of decided to just stop altogether). At least with the new switch we can baby it into park, but it is basically back to where it was last week. He mentioned it might be deeper in the transmission, but that's out of his league.
PA Base 149,000 miles . My car doesn't start every time. Sometimes I have to wait for a few minutes before it does, meaning, when I turn the key, it does nothing. There's no cluttering or blinking of lights or anything else that would indicate a bad starter, bad battery or electrical issue.
I've had the battery, starter and alternator checked and my mechanic says that everything is good. He thinks its the ignition key or the security system is going bad.
I purchased a new key two weeks ago and it started up every time until earlier today.
In the speedometer and odometer section, specifically the 'Park, R, N, D, 2, 1' section, there's an orange pin-like indicator that moves when you change gears. Mine is stuck between the '2 and 1', even when I place the car in park, reverse or drive. Could this be any cause to my vehicle not starting?
I just purchased a 2001 Park Ave Base. The DIC, A/C and Radio lights will randomly dim so low that they cant be seen during the day and I have no cluster lights at all. I have checked the fuses and ensured that the dimmer is all the way up (just before clicking on the interior lights which do come on) and have found nothing.
View 4 RepliesWhen I try to start my 96 Park Avenue sometimes it will not start until I back off the key just a little bit. I have replaced both ignition switches,starter and starter relay. along with new ignition key with the correct pellet resistance. The problem still persists. I really can not use a volt meter to check for voltage at starter terminals since the issue is very intermittent. I have checked and cleaned the battery terminals and the battery is ok, only one year old. I have head lights that do not dim when problem occurs. The only thing left I believe is the related wiring.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1992 Buick Century with a 3.3L V6. I noticed a hissing sound under the hood with the motor running. The short vacuum hose (about 2 inches) connected at the fuel pressure regulator was loose and leaking. I shut the engine, remove the end of the hose and a little gas (about a teaspoon) came out of the vacuum pipe for awhile and then it stopped.
I tightened (but did not overtighten) the end of the hose with a nylon wire tie. There was no existing clamp on it. The vacuum leak stopped (no more hissing). Now, the car is sometimes hard to start or restart. Do I have a serious problem? Did I do the right thing? Could this be caused by a clogged fuel filter? (it was changed 42000 miles ago).
92 PA Base
It's that time again for vehicle inspection and my horn has been blowing fuses. I had it diagnosed by the dealership and they stated the horn pad inside the steering wheel is bad. They also stated the horn pads for my model of PA has been discontinued and that I should install an aftermarket horn. If I don't have this horn installed I'll fail the inspection.
92 PA, 134,000 miles
I'm constantly getting a 'Code 41' and now my fuel economy is almost 100 miles less than usual on a full tank. I was wondering what could be causing the decrease of fuel economy?
Also, direct me to the location of the cam sensor and the directions for replacing. I've tried the AutoZone site to locate it but it was difficult to decipher.
Yesterday all four of my power windows stopped working in my 99 PA. The radio also has no power. I checked all the fuses in both fuse boxes (under the rear seat and in engine compartment.) Everything checks out... what am I missing?
View 3 RepliesI have an '85 Buick Electra. The "check engine soon" light comes on when I brake, stays on for awhile after I stop braking, and then goes on. There have been a couple of times when it just comes on but the majority of the time, it's when I brake.
View 5 Replies92 PA Base
146,000 miles
I noticed that the coolant in the reservoir has been going low and I've been having to replenish it, in addition to the many different locations of small puddles of fluid under my car. Obviously there must be a leak somewhere. I conducted a pressure test on the radiator and detected a leak on a hose connected to the engine near the water pump was not tight. After tightening I pumped 16 lbs. of pressure and found the second leak; up between the rear valve cover and upper manifold.
My question is can coolant leak from the valve covers or is it coming from the manifold? I'm going to change the valve cover gaskets anyway since repairs need to be done in that area.
What are estimates if taken to a master tech: if manifold is leaking and replacing it along with the valve cover gaskets, or just replacing valve cover gaskets. Located in Indy.
I saw there was a service bulletin for this problem but could not access the bulletin. What can I do to tighten this mirror up.It does not have a screw just a clip. I tried bending the clip but no dice. Can I wedge something in there to tighten it up? This is the one on the windshield.
View 1 Replies92 PA Base ... Attempting to replace water pump. Is a hydraulic jack required to hold up the engine when removing the engine mount? The engine mount (passenger side front) is covering the right portion of the water pump. Although the engine mount has two holes for the remainder bolts of the water pump, there's no room to fit a ratchet or anything to remove the remaining two bolts. It appears the mount must be removed to replace the water pump. Is this so? How to correctly remove the engine mount.
View 1 RepliesMy interior lights are staying on all the time, What is the part number for the switch that I need?
View 1 Replies2001 Park Avenue has an issue that manifests itself every now and then. When I try to start engine nothing happens. Sometimes after turning key 3, 4 or 5 times it will start normally. I'm a little worried that one day it isn't going to start.... Using the original key, so I don't think that it's a problem with that. Have read that a faulty BCM can be responsible for a no-start condition, but that wouldn't be an intermittent occurrence would it?
View 6 RepliesThis procedure explains how to remove the driver side, rear door panel, test the power window motor and switch and replace the power window regulator assembly.
Tools Required: #2 Philips screwdriver, small slot screwdriver, 10mm socket wrench, jumper cables, set of test leads with alligator clips, DC voltmeter.
Cost: In the end, I did not end up buying a new window regulator assembly, but I think a "Dorman 741-356 Rear Driver Side Replacement Power Window Regulator with Motor for Toyota Camry" would work.
1. Locate the anchor (red arrow). Push the center in and then pry the anchor out with a slot screwdriver.
2. Remove ashtray, pry and remove the rubber liner and remove the #2 Phillips screw.
3. While pulling the door handle, carefully pry the plastic trim piece away from the door handle bezel and remove the #2 Phillips screw.
4. Pushing the door trim piece forward, pry the rear upward. Note that there is a plastic tab (red arrow) at the front of this trim piece, so it is necessary to lift it from the back to avoid breaking it.
5. Squeeze the electrical connector to remove it from the socket and then set the trim piece/switch assembly aside.
6. Remove #2 Phillips screw (red arrow).
7. Remove two #2 Philips screws (circled in red) at the bottom of the door.
8. Grasp the bottom of the door panel with your fingertips and gently, but firmly pull outward to disengage the 9 snaps on the door.
9. Lift the door panel upward to unhook it from the door. Carefully set the door panel on the ground.
10.Pull the white plastic cable guide out of the sheet metal holder and rotate the cable housing to disengage the cable from the mechanism. Pull the green plastic cable guide out of the sheet metal holder and rotate the cable housing to disengage the cable from the mechanism. Gently set the door panel aside. %
I have had the LF strut mount fail three times in the last three months. The strut has pushed through the upper mount. The guy a bought the car from said he had the struts replaced about a year ago. Could it be a bad strut?
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