Park Avenue :: 99 - No Start / Security Light On Dash Blinks When Inset Key In Ignition
Aug 1, 2015
ok so i have this park ave. that i had a new key cut. started and ran fine. then it shut down. nothing showed in error codes. now i insert key in ignition and security light on dash blinks. turn ignition to on(run) security light goes out. tried the 30min relearn for key with no results.
where is the BCM located? is there a decent diagram of where? last diagram i used said the ECM was located by evap. can. damn thing is located in the air filter assembly!
the fuel system is charging. but not staying charged. no cranking of the starter.
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PA Base 149,000 miles . My car doesn't start every time. Sometimes I have to wait for a few minutes before it does, meaning, when I turn the key, it does nothing. There's no cluttering or blinking of lights or anything else that would indicate a bad starter, bad battery or electrical issue.
I've had the battery, starter and alternator checked and my mechanic says that everything is good. He thinks its the ignition key or the security system is going bad.
I purchased a new key two weeks ago and it started up every time until earlier today.
In the speedometer and odometer section, specifically the 'Park, R, N, D, 2, 1' section, there's an orange pin-like indicator that moves when you change gears. Mine is stuck between the '2 and 1', even when I place the car in park, reverse or drive. Could this be any cause to my vehicle not starting?
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When I try to start my 96 Park Avenue sometimes it will not start until I back off the key just a little bit. I have replaced both ignition switches,starter and starter relay. along with new ignition key with the correct pellet resistance. The problem still persists. I really can not use a volt meter to check for voltage at starter terminals since the issue is very intermittent. I have checked and cleaned the battery terminals and the battery is ok, only one year old. I have head lights that do not dim when problem occurs. The only thing left I believe is the related wiring.
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I have an '85 Buick Electra. The "check engine soon" light comes on when I brake, stays on for awhile after I stop braking, and then goes on. There have been a couple of times when it just comes on but the majority of the time, it's when I brake.
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Car has been stalling when stopped sitting in driveway or when slowing down for a red light or stop sign. Sometimes starts right away others takes 20 minutes. No codes no service engine light. Being told camshaft sensor crankshaft sensor egr valve. Got all data at library did egr test all indicate it is good. Did not have enough time to print out info on the sensors
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I have a 1988 Buick PA Electra. Car idles rough and shaky at a stop light. When warmed up service engine light comes on for a few seconds then goes off. I've changed ignition coil box, wires, plugs, ignition module, fuel injectors, fuel filter. It seems like there may be a vacuum leak. Car has only 114,000 miles on it and I don't want to give up on her. Before this she was running smooth.
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1992 Buick Park Avenue, Base. For awhile now I've had trouble shifting into park from other gears. Sometimes, it'll flow right into park without trouble. Other times, I have to work it, to kind of baby it in. However, it simply will not shift into park from reverse. Period. If I'm in reverse and want to park, I have to go into drive, neutral, etc, and then try to move it into park.
A mechanic I know looked at the neutral safety switch and thought it could be causing the problem. We figured it wasn't in the steering column or the cable to the switch because if we disconnect the cable, you can slide that lever all day long. So I purchased a new neutral safety switch and had him install it, but the same problem is there. Actually, let me clarify: while it was in his garage, with the old switch, it would no longer go into park at all, regardless (kind of decided to just stop altogether). At least with the new switch we can baby it into park, but it is basically back to where it was last week. He mentioned it might be deeper in the transmission, but that's out of his league.
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My Car is stuck in the ignition, the display show please put in park. The key cannot take out. The dealer replace the dash board and have no success. Car in shop for 10 days already. There was another Touareg that had the same problem.
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It's a 1999 Toyota Celica GT 2.2L, about 190000 miles and I just replaced the transmission not too long ago. Here's what happened, I was sitting a light, the light turned green, and I pushed the gas and the car stalled. I put it in park, tried to turn it on, and it won't start, but is still turning over, making an awful whining noise. Not the transmission. Battery is good, windows, stereo, etc still work. Terminals are good. Everything is still connected, I just changed my oil about 1000 miles ago, still has oil. Has transmission fluid, actually has all it's fluids, no leaks. No check engine light or any other lights. She did not overheat, if anything was colder than usual, No water in my motor, everything LOOKS good, and I take good care of my car, so I'm really baffled. I just spent my savings on the transmission, I'm not a mechanic, I'm just learning to do things on my own.
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When ignition is turned on the front defrost light blinks fo 30 second before the climate control screen initializes. Then the temp defaults to 75 degrees instead of the last teperatue / mode selected. Only dash vents blow regardless of mode selection. Dealer report was inoperative servo motor. my inspection, visual was that all three servo motors power and move to default position when battery power is restored. It seems that the command to the center servo motor is not correct.
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I've had an issue twice with the truck stuck in park. Both times I pulled battery cables and it reset itself. This time is different; the truck is stuck in park, the chime doesn't work when you open the door, the screen flashes tire pressure monitor fault and the traction control light blinks on and off. Not only that, the radio does not work, nor does the heat/air. I've got to believe with that many things its the body control module gone bad? Truck is a 2010 crew cab with the 5.4 btw...
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My 2014 camry won't start. I put my key in the ignition and the dash lights come on and blinks once and won't start. The brake pedal won't depress and the steering wheel stays stiff.
I was messing with my sound system the day before and now the car won't start. I've check the battery and it's good and has juice. I've checked all the fuses and relays seem to be fine. Everything work on the car it just won't start.
These cars have a main relay or something with the ignition switch?
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The light came on the dash, it blinks at first, then becomes solid. Checked all the air pressure, tires are all fine. Tried resetting with the button, doesn't fix it - blinks then goes solid.
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My 2002 explorer, 4.0l engine. My 4x4 light on the dash blinks 10 times and I've found that sometimes the 4 wheel drive locks in. When i pull into a parking space on dry road I can feel the front of the truck Jerking when trying to park. I hit the 4x4 auto button on the dash a couple of times and the 4 x 4 will disengage. While driving on dry road yesterday the 4x4 light started blinking and I felt the 4x4 slam in. The 4x4 light still blinks and I can't disengage the 4 x 4 this time. The truck has 140,000 miles on it. I'm thinking its the 4x4 control module but I'm not sure.
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I have my toyota pirus 2008 and i'm facing problem with it electric door locks. it's Security light flashing on the dash and the electric door locks won't unlock from the inside of the car but will lock. so i'm looking for a locking for locksmith who can solve it asap.
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I just purchased a 2001 Park Ave Base. The DIC, A/C and Radio lights will randomly dim so low that they cant be seen during the day and I have no cluster lights at all. I have checked the fuses and ensured that the dimmer is all the way up (just before clicking on the interior lights which do come on) and have found nothing.
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Where I could get a front driver side window regulator I am having a problem finding one and tired of the window going up and down slow due to the window ending up on the wrong side of the rubber.
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92 PA Base
It's that time again for vehicle inspection and my horn has been blowing fuses. I had it diagnosed by the dealership and they stated the horn pad inside the steering wheel is bad. They also stated the horn pads for my model of PA has been discontinued and that I should install an aftermarket horn. If I don't have this horn installed I'll fail the inspection.
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92 PA, 134,000 miles
I'm constantly getting a 'Code 41' and now my fuel economy is almost 100 miles less than usual on a full tank. I was wondering what could be causing the decrease of fuel economy?
Also, direct me to the location of the cam sensor and the directions for replacing. I've tried the AutoZone site to locate it but it was difficult to decipher.
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Yesterday all four of my power windows stopped working in my 99 PA. The radio also has no power. I checked all the fuses in both fuse boxes (under the rear seat and in engine compartment.) Everything checks out... what am I missing?
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92 PA Base
146,000 miles
I noticed that the coolant in the reservoir has been going low and I've been having to replenish it, in addition to the many different locations of small puddles of fluid under my car. Obviously there must be a leak somewhere. I conducted a pressure test on the radiator and detected a leak on a hose connected to the engine near the water pump was not tight. After tightening I pumped 16 lbs. of pressure and found the second leak; up between the rear valve cover and upper manifold.
My question is can coolant leak from the valve covers or is it coming from the manifold? I'm going to change the valve cover gaskets anyway since repairs need to be done in that area.
What are estimates if taken to a master tech: if manifold is leaking and replacing it along with the valve cover gaskets, or just replacing valve cover gaskets. Located in Indy.
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