I have had the LF strut mount fail three times in the last three months. The strut has pushed through the upper mount. The guy a bought the car from said he had the struts replaced about a year ago. Could it be a bad strut?
View 1 RepliesMy upper strut mounts have been failing after a year (about 12,000 miles, typical highway and local street driving, no off-road!). This seems to have started when I replaced shocks with Bilstein slightly stiffer variety. I also put a stabilizer bar on it at that time. Do you think the shocks are the fault? What else might I look for?
View 1 Replies2001 Park Avenue has an issue that manifests itself every now and then. When I try to start engine nothing happens. Sometimes after turning key 3, 4 or 5 times it will start normally. I'm a little worried that one day it isn't going to start.... Using the original key, so I don't think that it's a problem with that. Have read that a faulty BCM can be responsible for a no-start condition, but that wouldn't be an intermittent occurrence would it?
View 6 RepliesThe car seems to start accelerating on it own. Say cruise control is set you notice acceleration for no reason. Now cruise control does not work and acceleration at times still happens. It's not like you are flooring it just keeps going faster slowly. Don't know if this could be related I did replace the fuel pump recently and the crankshaft position sensor. I was looking to see if there is a re learn procedure for the crank sensor. I have replaced them in the past and don't remember having to do a relearn.
View 10 RepliesI have had the right rear strut replaced three times in the last year and a half. The second time I also bought a new set of tires. It drove much smoother after that, however, it still has the following problem. When I'm driving on even a slightly bumpy street, it sounds like the right side of the backseat is loose. It rattles and squeaks. I've had the backseat removed each time I've replaced the strut and nothing is wrong there. Recently, I had some body damage repaired to the rear bumper and told the guy about this problem. He took out the backseat and found that with it removed and while being driven, it still made the same squeaky, rattly, loose sound and that the strut is still leaking. I have been avoiding bumpy roads and speed bumps.
View 6 Replies1992 Buick Park Avenue, Base. For awhile now I've had trouble shifting into park from other gears. Sometimes, it'll flow right into park without trouble. Other times, I have to work it, to kind of baby it in. However, it simply will not shift into park from reverse. Period. If I'm in reverse and want to park, I have to go into drive, neutral, etc, and then try to move it into park.
A mechanic I know looked at the neutral safety switch and thought it could be causing the problem. We figured it wasn't in the steering column or the cable to the switch because if we disconnect the cable, you can slide that lever all day long. So I purchased a new neutral safety switch and had him install it, but the same problem is there. Actually, let me clarify: while it was in his garage, with the old switch, it would no longer go into park at all, regardless (kind of decided to just stop altogether). At least with the new switch we can baby it into park, but it is basically back to where it was last week. He mentioned it might be deeper in the transmission, but that's out of his league.
I have purchased an UltraRacing strut bar for my hyundai accent 2005... The problem however is that my intake manifold sits higher than the throttle body and as a result of this i am unable to mount the bar... The bar has been made for an 03 accent but all points are identical, the only difference that i was able to see is that in the previous accent the throttle body was NOT plastic and sat FLUSH with the throttle body, whereas mine IS plastic and does NOT sit flush with the throttle body.
View 1 RepliesI have a rear rattle that I cant figure out had the wheel off and levered and pounded on links bushings etc. How can I access the top strut mounts to check them? Nothing found on youtube. Original struts on rear show no leaks or broken spring. Bouncing car does nothing neither does grabbing the tire at 12 and 6 or 3 and 9 position.
View 3 RepliesI have to replace the torque strut mount in my 2008 Avalon XLS V6. I can't find the torque specs for the two bolts in my Haynes manual or at any online sites. Also, should I use either threadlocker or anti-seize on them?
View 1 RepliesWas tinkering on my car this morning, and at first noticed one side had a bigger gap than the other. Ok, I really need to change strut mount bushings, no big deal. Then I actually looked closer, and they both have some lean to them, but the drivers side is much more than the other one. Is this normal? I've never noticed any play in control arm bushings or anything. So what could be causing this? I would assume they are meant to sit flat but maybe not?
View 8 RepliesI hear a a series of "clunks" rather than "rattles" (not high pitched) when driving slow over bumpy roads. The noise is coming from the rear only. I think it is more evident in cold temperatures, but I'm not sure. I'll find out if it ever gets above freezing again in MN. Strut mounts? If so, DIY project?
View 6 RepliesIs this possible? I recently installed raceland ultimos and I get this weird muffled noise from the top of the rear suspension. Took it all apart, cut the bump stops shorter, and lubed the strut mounts. Sound went away for about 10 mins of driving, went for another drive and the sound was back. The next day the weather was warmer and the noise was gone. Should I just get new strut mounts?
View 6 RepliesI just installed my brand new coil overs. I went to drop the car from the jack and as it lowered I noticed my strut mount fully popped out of the strut mount housing. I can't even close my hood. Did I do something wrong?
View 1 RepliesI had my ST coilovers installed a while back. I love the ride, but a really annoying squeaking/groaning sound developed several weeks ago from the front strut mount area. The noise is heard at low speeds as I roll down the road (most likely high speeds, too) and sounds like its coming from both sides of the upper strut mount area. If you lift up/push down on the car, you can also hear the sound.
I purchased a set of 034 Density upper strut mounts from AMI Motorsports in hopes of eliminating the sound, but the sound got worse!! I still do not have a resolution. At this point, I'm thinking about putting the stock strut mounts back in, as the sound wasn't near as bad with the OE mounts in place.
I've lubricated the sway bar bushings and installed shorter end links (thinking the sound may be sway bar related), but the noise is still there. I even disconnected the end links all together - sound is still there. Could this be faulty coilovers? I tried to file a warranty claim through ST - they don't think their strut is faulty, and even if they did, I'm having a hard time with warranty coverage (long story). If it's the struts, then why did the sound get worse when the new 034 Density upper strut mounts were installed? Could it be faulty mounts?
At this point, I think it's either the mount or the strut, as I did not experience any issues prior to the coilovers.
Setup: WRD Street Advantage Coilover kit. Installed and sit at 24.75" all around. 034 Density mounts and new bearings. 19,xxx mi.
7 weeks ago I installed WRD Street Advantage coils. The install went great, no problems. Drove a week or so and decided to replace the strut mounts with 034's density strut mounts and new bearing to get rid of the creaking sound at low speed. Ordered them and put them on this weekend. After driving it I realized the creaking of the old weaker strut mount was gone. However, I inherited a rough clunking or knocking sound (as if something is loose and moving around), which seems to be coming from my passenger side. This happens at all speeds and not specific to turning the wheel. I unistalled/reinstalled everything in the front 4 times and went through everything with a fine tooth comb, but can't find anything loose. All bolts are torqued to spec.
I even removed the sway bar end links and drove it, still there. So it's not the end links. I also tried using the OEM endlinks which are longer than the ones from WRD to increase the space between the axle and the sway bar, possibly thinking it was hitting and causing the noise. No luck, still there. The only thing I noticed is that with the car on jack stands the strut mount is tight to the body but I still have slight play in the spring and it's perch. Is that normal? I'm assuming under load it's tight again. So the only variable in my situation is the new Density Mounts and bearing, can these cause heightened noises due to the increased heardness of the mounts?
PA Base 149,000 miles . My car doesn't start every time. Sometimes I have to wait for a few minutes before it does, meaning, when I turn the key, it does nothing. There's no cluttering or blinking of lights or anything else that would indicate a bad starter, bad battery or electrical issue.
I've had the battery, starter and alternator checked and my mechanic says that everything is good. He thinks its the ignition key or the security system is going bad.
I purchased a new key two weeks ago and it started up every time until earlier today.
In the speedometer and odometer section, specifically the 'Park, R, N, D, 2, 1' section, there's an orange pin-like indicator that moves when you change gears. Mine is stuck between the '2 and 1', even when I place the car in park, reverse or drive. Could this be any cause to my vehicle not starting?
I just purchased a 2001 Park Ave Base. The DIC, A/C and Radio lights will randomly dim so low that they cant be seen during the day and I have no cluster lights at all. I have checked the fuses and ensured that the dimmer is all the way up (just before clicking on the interior lights which do come on) and have found nothing.
View 4 RepliesWhen I try to start my 96 Park Avenue sometimes it will not start until I back off the key just a little bit. I have replaced both ignition switches,starter and starter relay. along with new ignition key with the correct pellet resistance. The problem still persists. I really can not use a volt meter to check for voltage at starter terminals since the issue is very intermittent. I have checked and cleaned the battery terminals and the battery is ok, only one year old. I have head lights that do not dim when problem occurs. The only thing left I believe is the related wiring.
View 1 RepliesI have a set of ST coilovers, installed on my tiguan s4motion they ride great but have noticed clunk noise coming from tight strut and I'm pretty sure it's the pillow mount plate, is there anywhere to get replacements or a better plate? ST website doesn't have them separately...
View 1 RepliesWhere I could get a front driver side window regulator I am having a problem finding one and tired of the window going up and down slow due to the window ending up on the wrong side of the rubber.
View 6 Replies92 PA Base
It's that time again for vehicle inspection and my horn has been blowing fuses. I had it diagnosed by the dealership and they stated the horn pad inside the steering wheel is bad. They also stated the horn pads for my model of PA has been discontinued and that I should install an aftermarket horn. If I don't have this horn installed I'll fail the inspection.