Park Avenue :: 2001 - Cruise Control Disengages After Few Minutes
Jun 30, 2014
Cruise control engages normally, holds the set speed, but after a few minutes it disengages. It feels that same as when you lightly tap the brake pedal to disconnect the cruise. Bad brake switch or something else?
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The car seems to start accelerating on it own. Say cruise control is set you notice acceleration for no reason. Now cruise control does not work and acceleration at times still happens. It's not like you are flooring it just keeps going faster slowly. Don't know if this could be related I did replace the fuel pump recently and the crankshaft position sensor. I was looking to see if there is a re learn procedure for the crank sensor. I have replaced them in the past and don't remember having to do a relearn.
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My cruise control disengages with a significant bump.
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2002 Honda Civic LX
Around 1 or 2 years ago, cruise control has started acting strangely. If weather or the engine are cold, and the road is smooth, then it works fine. However, in hot weather, or if the engine is hot, cruise control disengages and the car just slows down as if someone turned CC off. Sometimes this happens randomly, other times by a nudge from a bump in the road.
If I try to re-engage CC, it doesn't work. I have to reach to the CC master switch, turn that off, then back on, and then CC starts working again for a while - until I hit the next bump or something.
The problem seems to be getting slowly worse as time goes by. At first I had this problem in the middle of summer. Now CC is affected even in winter (or what passes for winter in California).
What could possibly cause this? If it's something that could be fixed by just replacing some component, I'd rather do it myself. But I don't know what part might be the culprit.
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2001 Park Avenue has an issue that manifests itself every now and then. When I try to start engine nothing happens. Sometimes after turning key 3, 4 or 5 times it will start normally. I'm a little worried that one day it isn't going to start.... Using the original key, so I don't think that it's a problem with that. Have read that a faulty BCM can be responsible for a no-start condition, but that wouldn't be an intermittent occurrence would it?
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Windshield wipers quit working. Wiper fluid still squirts. Fuse is good. Looking for any information for troubleshooting further.
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Car has been stalling when stopped sitting in driveway or when slowing down for a red light or stop sign. Sometimes starts right away others takes 20 minutes. No codes no service engine light. Being told camshaft sensor crankshaft sensor egr valve. Got all data at library did egr test all indicate it is good. Did not have enough time to print out info on the sensors
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I have a 2001 park avenue. Runs great but when you take your foot off the gas it feels as if the engine shakes or moves. This happens if driving or just parked. Maybe worn motor mount?
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Front passenger will not open. It sounds like it unlocks but won't open. I was able to get door panel partially off. But i can not see the latch assembly. Not sure if I should try to muscle the panel off more probably destroying it so I can get to latch assembly or try to make a hook of some kind to put down next to window to try to pull rod for door latch. I was able to get my hand inside trying to pull on the arms to open but it never worked. Trying to see if I can get more access to spray it with something to free it up.
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109,000 miles car shakes thru the steering wheel and the seat on highway driving from appox 60 mph and higher. Needed new tires anyways thought it was tire balance problem. Put on 4 new tires, road force balanced all four still shaking. Road force again, still shaking. So I am ruling out the tires. All front end parts are fine, rear end parts are fine. Struts have 30000 miles on them, but the strut bearings are shot. Alignment was done 12000 miles ago when I replaced the outer tie rod ends on both sides up front. Not getting any bearing noises with car on hoist and hand turning the wheels. Where to go next? I need to change the strut bearings out and do another alignment. Any thing else to look at? Just trying to get the ride back.
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1992 Buick Park Avenue, Base. For awhile now I've had trouble shifting into park from other gears. Sometimes, it'll flow right into park without trouble. Other times, I have to work it, to kind of baby it in. However, it simply will not shift into park from reverse. Period. If I'm in reverse and want to park, I have to go into drive, neutral, etc, and then try to move it into park.
A mechanic I know looked at the neutral safety switch and thought it could be causing the problem. We figured it wasn't in the steering column or the cable to the switch because if we disconnect the cable, you can slide that lever all day long. So I purchased a new neutral safety switch and had him install it, but the same problem is there. Actually, let me clarify: while it was in his garage, with the old switch, it would no longer go into park at all, regardless (kind of decided to just stop altogether). At least with the new switch we can baby it into park, but it is basically back to where it was last week. He mentioned it might be deeper in the transmission, but that's out of his league.
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The cruise control cuts out after driving for 25+ minutes. The rpm's rev up to 4000 and the speedometer goes wild just before cutting off. It can be reset but does not hold for long. Short trips and a cooling-off period for the engine seem to work. The dealer could not replicate the condition.
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Just installed a debadged grill on my 08 Passat VR6 from ECS tuning. I didn't realize that the radar for the adaptive cruise was right behind the VW emblem on the original grill. The ACC still works but not like it should...seems like it works normally sometime and sometimes doesn't. Any solution besides putting the old grill back on??? I wouldn't think the few spokes in the badgeless one would affect the radar since the emblem used to be in front of it. My Park Assist sensors are not functioning properly either but I think I can resolve that issue by adjusting there location a bit...
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I love my 2003 Honda CR-V and it works perfectly except for the cruise control. It may work for 5 miles or 200 miles, but at some point while riding along just fine the car bucks, decreases and then increases speed, and then the cruise disengages. Once this happens, it takes a long time for the cruise control to take hold again. This is an intermittent problem and almost impossible for a mechanic to figure out. I'd love to solve this mystery as I plan to keep this car for at least 300,000 miles! I'm only up to 179,000.
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PA Base 149,000 miles . My car doesn't start every time. Sometimes I have to wait for a few minutes before it does, meaning, when I turn the key, it does nothing. There's no cluttering or blinking of lights or anything else that would indicate a bad starter, bad battery or electrical issue.
I've had the battery, starter and alternator checked and my mechanic says that everything is good. He thinks its the ignition key or the security system is going bad.
I purchased a new key two weeks ago and it started up every time until earlier today.
In the speedometer and odometer section, specifically the 'Park, R, N, D, 2, 1' section, there's an orange pin-like indicator that moves when you change gears. Mine is stuck between the '2 and 1', even when I place the car in park, reverse or drive. Could this be any cause to my vehicle not starting?
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I just purchased a 2001 Park Ave Base. The DIC, A/C and Radio lights will randomly dim so low that they cant be seen during the day and I have no cluster lights at all. I have checked the fuses and ensured that the dimmer is all the way up (just before clicking on the interior lights which do come on) and have found nothing.
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When I try to start my 96 Park Avenue sometimes it will not start until I back off the key just a little bit. I have replaced both ignition switches,starter and starter relay. along with new ignition key with the correct pellet resistance. The problem still persists. I really can not use a volt meter to check for voltage at starter terminals since the issue is very intermittent. I have checked and cleaned the battery terminals and the battery is ok, only one year old. I have head lights that do not dim when problem occurs. The only thing left I believe is the related wiring.
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Where I could get a front driver side window regulator I am having a problem finding one and tired of the window going up and down slow due to the window ending up on the wrong side of the rubber.
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92 PA Base
It's that time again for vehicle inspection and my horn has been blowing fuses. I had it diagnosed by the dealership and they stated the horn pad inside the steering wheel is bad. They also stated the horn pads for my model of PA has been discontinued and that I should install an aftermarket horn. If I don't have this horn installed I'll fail the inspection.
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92 PA, 134,000 miles
I'm constantly getting a 'Code 41' and now my fuel economy is almost 100 miles less than usual on a full tank. I was wondering what could be causing the decrease of fuel economy?
Also, direct me to the location of the cam sensor and the directions for replacing. I've tried the AutoZone site to locate it but it was difficult to decipher.
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Yesterday all four of my power windows stopped working in my 99 PA. The radio also has no power. I checked all the fuses in both fuse boxes (under the rear seat and in engine compartment.) Everything checks out... what am I missing?
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