Car has been stalling when stopped sitting in driveway or when slowing down for a red light or stop sign. Sometimes starts right away others takes 20 minutes. No codes no service engine light. Being told camshaft sensor crankshaft sensor egr valve. Got all data at library did egr test all indicate it is good. Did not have enough time to print out info on the sensors
View 2 Replies1992 Buick Park Avenue - Base
This morning my serpentine belt tore and slapped everything for a few minutes and I'll be receiving a new one tomorrow or the day after, but that's not the trouble, I just feel it's related as that is when this problem started. In the last 2 months I have replaced the Cam sensor and interrupter, timing chain and tensioner were in good shape. replaced the ICM, coils, wires, and plugs and used dielectric grease on all connectors, including the cam sensor and new crank sensor, also replaced the harmonic balancer, fuel pump, filter, pressure regulator, PCV valve, alternator, and a new pigtail is coming for the cam sensor as some of the wires had bare spots. This plug is currently taped and shoved out of the way, not plugged in, and has been for a week, so I doubt it's relevant.
This issue is : The car fires up fine, but has great difficulty idling and stalls too often to drive after a few minutes. At higher RPMs it only misses or misfires occasionally. With the serpentine belt off, the car idles much smoother. Tonight I plan to try tightening the harmonic balancer again, running the with MAP sensor unplugged, again with the exhaust O2 sensor removed.
Yesterday all four of my power windows stopped working in my 99 PA. The radio also has no power. I checked all the fuses in both fuse boxes (under the rear seat and in engine compartment.) Everything checks out... what am I missing?
View 3 Replies2300k engine. Car stopped running on highway during a rain storm. Checked spark and its ok.checked compression and its ok. Fuel is at 45 psi at port. Changed crankshaft positioning sensor. Dont know what else to check? Still wont start!
View 14 RepliesI recently acquired a 1992 Buick Park Ave. My problem is that she shakes as i slow down and stalls when I stop. Usually about 10 minutes or so of driving. It doesn't stall every time but less when i baby the brake (i think) Its getting worse quickly and I've changed the spark plug wires and that didn't work also the previous owner recently changed the Cam sensor yet I'm getting a code 41.
View 14 Replies2001 Park Avenue has an issue that manifests itself every now and then. When I try to start engine nothing happens. Sometimes after turning key 3, 4 or 5 times it will start normally. I'm a little worried that one day it isn't going to start.... Using the original key, so I don't think that it's a problem with that. Have read that a faulty BCM can be responsible for a no-start condition, but that wouldn't be an intermittent occurrence would it?
View 6 RepliesCruise control engages normally, holds the set speed, but after a few minutes it disengages. It feels that same as when you lightly tap the brake pedal to disconnect the cruise. Bad brake switch or something else?
View 1 RepliesWindshield wipers quit working. Wiper fluid still squirts. Fuse is good. Looking for any information for troubleshooting further.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2001 park avenue. Runs great but when you take your foot off the gas it feels as if the engine shakes or moves. This happens if driving or just parked. Maybe worn motor mount?
View 3 RepliesFront passenger will not open. It sounds like it unlocks but won't open. I was able to get door panel partially off. But i can not see the latch assembly. Not sure if I should try to muscle the panel off more probably destroying it so I can get to latch assembly or try to make a hook of some kind to put down next to window to try to pull rod for door latch. I was able to get my hand inside trying to pull on the arms to open but it never worked. Trying to see if I can get more access to spray it with something to free it up.
View 3 RepliesThe car seems to start accelerating on it own. Say cruise control is set you notice acceleration for no reason. Now cruise control does not work and acceleration at times still happens. It's not like you are flooring it just keeps going faster slowly. Don't know if this could be related I did replace the fuel pump recently and the crankshaft position sensor. I was looking to see if there is a re learn procedure for the crank sensor. I have replaced them in the past and don't remember having to do a relearn.
View 10 Replies109,000 miles car shakes thru the steering wheel and the seat on highway driving from appox 60 mph and higher. Needed new tires anyways thought it was tire balance problem. Put on 4 new tires, road force balanced all four still shaking. Road force again, still shaking. So I am ruling out the tires. All front end parts are fine, rear end parts are fine. Struts have 30000 miles on them, but the strut bearings are shot. Alignment was done 12000 miles ago when I replaced the outer tie rod ends on both sides up front. Not getting any bearing noises with car on hoist and hand turning the wheels. Where to go next? I need to change the strut bearings out and do another alignment. Any thing else to look at? Just trying to get the ride back.
View 13 RepliesI have an '85 Buick Electra. The "check engine soon" light comes on when I brake, stays on for awhile after I stop braking, and then goes on. There have been a couple of times when it just comes on but the majority of the time, it's when I brake.
View 5 RepliesI have a 1988 Buick PA Electra. Car idles rough and shaky at a stop light. When warmed up service engine light comes on for a few seconds then goes off. I've changed ignition coil box, wires, plugs, ignition module, fuel injectors, fuel filter. It seems like there may be a vacuum leak. Car has only 114,000 miles on it and I don't want to give up on her. Before this she was running smooth.
View 4 Repliesok so i have this park ave. that i had a new key cut. started and ran fine. then it shut down. nothing showed in error codes. now i insert key in ignition and security light on dash blinks. turn ignition to on(run) security light goes out. tried the 30min relearn for key with no results.
where is the BCM located? is there a decent diagram of where? last diagram i used said the ECM was located by evap. can. damn thing is located in the air filter assembly!
the fuel system is charging. but not staying charged. no cranking of the starter.
This just started over the weekend. It's stalling. It does it mostly when I let off the gas and start slowing down. If I give it gas, it seems to straighten out for a minute. It has done this a couple of times while driving also. It sounds as if the engine speeds up and then slows down and stalls. The check engine light is on also. It went out yesterday and then popped back on today.
View 2 Replies1992 Buick Park Avenue, Base. For awhile now I've had trouble shifting into park from other gears. Sometimes, it'll flow right into park without trouble. Other times, I have to work it, to kind of baby it in. However, it simply will not shift into park from reverse. Period. If I'm in reverse and want to park, I have to go into drive, neutral, etc, and then try to move it into park.
A mechanic I know looked at the neutral safety switch and thought it could be causing the problem. We figured it wasn't in the steering column or the cable to the switch because if we disconnect the cable, you can slide that lever all day long. So I purchased a new neutral safety switch and had him install it, but the same problem is there. Actually, let me clarify: while it was in his garage, with the old switch, it would no longer go into park at all, regardless (kind of decided to just stop altogether). At least with the new switch we can baby it into park, but it is basically back to where it was last week. He mentioned it might be deeper in the transmission, but that's out of his league.
PA Base 149,000 miles . My car doesn't start every time. Sometimes I have to wait for a few minutes before it does, meaning, when I turn the key, it does nothing. There's no cluttering or blinking of lights or anything else that would indicate a bad starter, bad battery or electrical issue.
I've had the battery, starter and alternator checked and my mechanic says that everything is good. He thinks its the ignition key or the security system is going bad.
I purchased a new key two weeks ago and it started up every time until earlier today.
In the speedometer and odometer section, specifically the 'Park, R, N, D, 2, 1' section, there's an orange pin-like indicator that moves when you change gears. Mine is stuck between the '2 and 1', even when I place the car in park, reverse or drive. Could this be any cause to my vehicle not starting?
I just purchased a 2001 Park Ave Base. The DIC, A/C and Radio lights will randomly dim so low that they cant be seen during the day and I have no cluster lights at all. I have checked the fuses and ensured that the dimmer is all the way up (just before clicking on the interior lights which do come on) and have found nothing.
View 4 RepliesWhen I try to start my 96 Park Avenue sometimes it will not start until I back off the key just a little bit. I have replaced both ignition switches,starter and starter relay. along with new ignition key with the correct pellet resistance. The problem still persists. I really can not use a volt meter to check for voltage at starter terminals since the issue is very intermittent. I have checked and cleaned the battery terminals and the battery is ok, only one year old. I have head lights that do not dim when problem occurs. The only thing left I believe is the related wiring.
View 1 RepliesWhere I could get a front driver side window regulator I am having a problem finding one and tired of the window going up and down slow due to the window ending up on the wrong side of the rubber.
View 6 Replies