Park Avenue :: 1998 PA - Rear Passenger Door Would Sometimes Not Unlock
Dec 20, 2013
Got 98 PA with near 300k. A few months ago the rear passenger door would sometimes not unlock with either the switch or manual latch. Gradually got worse. Then the rear door lock on the drivers side did the same thing. Now I am stuck with both rear doors locked.
The electric switch does make a clicking sound at the door, but does not move the lock enough. I cannot force the manual latch back far enough to unlock the door. How to attack this problem and make it a 4 door car again?
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Ok, here is the problem: 1997 Buick Park Ave driver's door will not open from inside or outside. It will not unlock. The inside lock/unlock button will not move to unlock position. Using the key from outside will not unlock the door. This happened on the coldest day of the year (15 degrees). I'd love to take off the door panel to look inside but I can't open the door! I'm getting tired of entering and exiting the car from the passenger door!
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My 98 PA ash tray doesn't stay up. I can't see what is wrong. I meet another PA owner that has the same thing. Is it in the dash, or is it in the door that flaps down? What do I need to do to fix it? What part can I get/do I need if I went to a wrecking yard?
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Front passenger will not open. It sounds like it unlocks but won't open. I was able to get door panel partially off. But i can not see the latch assembly. Not sure if I should try to muscle the panel off more probably destroying it so I can get to latch assembly or try to make a hook of some kind to put down next to window to try to pull rod for door latch. I was able to get my hand inside trying to pull on the arms to open but it never worked. Trying to see if I can get more access to spray it with something to free it up.
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I have a 2007 santa fe and my rear passenger door is locked shut and i cant remove the door card to gain access to the lock ! i have tried the key fob and all the other doors lock and unlock fine !
The lock lever inside the car for the offending rear door flickers when you try and unlock the door with the fob but that is all .
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1992 Buick Park Avenue, Base. For awhile now I've had trouble shifting into park from other gears. Sometimes, it'll flow right into park without trouble. Other times, I have to work it, to kind of baby it in. However, it simply will not shift into park from reverse. Period. If I'm in reverse and want to park, I have to go into drive, neutral, etc, and then try to move it into park.
A mechanic I know looked at the neutral safety switch and thought it could be causing the problem. We figured it wasn't in the steering column or the cable to the switch because if we disconnect the cable, you can slide that lever all day long. So I purchased a new neutral safety switch and had him install it, but the same problem is there. Actually, let me clarify: while it was in his garage, with the old switch, it would no longer go into park at all, regardless (kind of decided to just stop altogether). At least with the new switch we can baby it into park, but it is basically back to where it was last week. He mentioned it might be deeper in the transmission, but that's out of his league.
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We like the car so far (not many miles on it yet so the jury is still out ) but one complaint my wife has: all doors automatically unlock when you shift into park. If she is in unknown territory or unsafe appearing area but needs to shift into park, this is a security issue for her. I can see it being a concern if you pull up to an ATM drive-through too as one normally would shift to park and conduct their business. It's not unheard of (rare, yes) to be confronted by someone trying to rob you while making such a transaction at times when few or no other people are around, etc. It's unnerving to think you're passenger side door might be opened while you are doing business out the driver's side door. I think my wife is more concerned about times when parking in underground ramp; doors unlock before she can survey the area UNLESS she remembers to not automatically shift into park when she pulls into the space. So, whether this automatic unlock "feature" can be disabled?
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I have a 2011 Azera. The rear doors don't automatically unlock when shifting into park. They function properly otherwise. The child door locks are set in the open position.
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I have a 98 explorer, I try to unlock the drivers door with the key and I can turn it to lock the door but it will not unlock it however I can go as far as I can and unlock all the doors, now the strange part (to me anyway) I can not unlock the door from the inside either by using the power lock or by trying to unlock it manually....
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Lately I've found it very annoying not to be able to unlock the passenger door behind the driver. I have the Prius v 5 and all the doors open except for that one. I find this kind of strange because many times I'll have a bag that I want to place in the back seat. So I'm wondering, is it possible to unlock this door using just the drivers door handle? I have already gone through some settings on my screen under vehicle, but can't find a way to change it.
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Recently I have had a problem with the key fob unlocking the front passenger door. I was able to hit unlock once and the driver door would unlock and then if i hit the unlock again the front passenger door would unlock. Now if I hit the unlock button a second time, the car beeps about six times and the passenger door is still locked. My wife noticed the other day when I unlocked the hatch the passenger door did unlock. I have tried to change the fob from opening just the driver door to all doors but that didn't work. Is there something else I should try or is it a lock actuator problem?
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My MKV R32 is door-addled...
Sometimes the symptoms are: passenger door won't lock or unlock electronically, opening from outside in "locked" state sets off alarm. Fob will reset it.Other times the symptoms are: passenger door will lock electronically but won't unlock electronically, so have to use lever from inside to let passengers in. Intermittently broken in one way or the other. Windows and the rest still work. This happens whether using the fob or the internal controls. Annoying! I'm told there is a door electronics module that needs some re-soldering perhaps...
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How do I remotely unlock the passenger side door? I've tried double-clicking the unlock button and I've tried holding the unlock button but neither work. I have KESSY and also have the VCDS mod that lets you remotely roll down windows.
Second locking question. I can't seem to unlock my hatch while the car is running. So if I go to the airport to pick someone up, I have to turn the car off to get the hatch to unlock.
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The front passenger door on my 2000 Buick Century would not unlock. The mechanic unlocked it but said it needed new parts.
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PA Base 149,000 miles . My car doesn't start every time. Sometimes I have to wait for a few minutes before it does, meaning, when I turn the key, it does nothing. There's no cluttering or blinking of lights or anything else that would indicate a bad starter, bad battery or electrical issue.
I've had the battery, starter and alternator checked and my mechanic says that everything is good. He thinks its the ignition key or the security system is going bad.
I purchased a new key two weeks ago and it started up every time until earlier today.
In the speedometer and odometer section, specifically the 'Park, R, N, D, 2, 1' section, there's an orange pin-like indicator that moves when you change gears. Mine is stuck between the '2 and 1', even when I place the car in park, reverse or drive. Could this be any cause to my vehicle not starting?
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I just purchased a 2001 Park Ave Base. The DIC, A/C and Radio lights will randomly dim so low that they cant be seen during the day and I have no cluster lights at all. I have checked the fuses and ensured that the dimmer is all the way up (just before clicking on the interior lights which do come on) and have found nothing.
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When I try to start my 96 Park Avenue sometimes it will not start until I back off the key just a little bit. I have replaced both ignition switches,starter and starter relay. along with new ignition key with the correct pellet resistance. The problem still persists. I really can not use a volt meter to check for voltage at starter terminals since the issue is very intermittent. I have checked and cleaned the battery terminals and the battery is ok, only one year old. I have head lights that do not dim when problem occurs. The only thing left I believe is the related wiring.
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This afternoon the Passenger door lock would not unlock, with switch, key fob or door pad,you can hear it and the lock rod moves a little but will not unlock. Now it won't lock or unlock, you can hear the actuator and see the lock rod move a little but it just won't get there. Should I get a part in hand before I tear into it or could it be a easy fix with no parts. 2002 Ex XLT 4X4
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Where I could get a front driver side window regulator I am having a problem finding one and tired of the window going up and down slow due to the window ending up on the wrong side of the rubber.
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92 PA Base
It's that time again for vehicle inspection and my horn has been blowing fuses. I had it diagnosed by the dealership and they stated the horn pad inside the steering wheel is bad. They also stated the horn pads for my model of PA has been discontinued and that I should install an aftermarket horn. If I don't have this horn installed I'll fail the inspection.
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92 PA, 134,000 miles
I'm constantly getting a 'Code 41' and now my fuel economy is almost 100 miles less than usual on a full tank. I was wondering what could be causing the decrease of fuel economy?
Also, direct me to the location of the cam sensor and the directions for replacing. I've tried the AutoZone site to locate it but it was difficult to decipher.
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