Park Avenue :: 1997 Buick Driver Side Door Will Not Unlock Or Open From Inside Or Outside
Jan 9, 2015
Ok, here is the problem: 1997 Buick Park Ave driver's door will not open from inside or outside. It will not unlock. The inside lock/unlock button will not move to unlock position. Using the key from outside will not unlock the door. This happened on the coldest day of the year (15 degrees). I'd love to take off the door panel to look inside but I can't open the door! I'm getting tired of entering and exiting the car from the passenger door!
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Got 98 PA with near 300k. A few months ago the rear passenger door would sometimes not unlock with either the switch or manual latch. Gradually got worse. Then the rear door lock on the drivers side did the same thing. Now I am stuck with both rear doors locked.
The electric switch does make a clicking sound at the door, but does not move the lock enough. I cannot force the manual latch back far enough to unlock the door. How to attack this problem and make it a 4 door car again?
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Front passenger will not open. It sounds like it unlocks but won't open. I was able to get door panel partially off. But i can not see the latch assembly. Not sure if I should try to muscle the panel off more probably destroying it so I can get to latch assembly or try to make a hook of some kind to put down next to window to try to pull rod for door latch. I was able to get my hand inside trying to pull on the arms to open but it never worked. Trying to see if I can get more access to spray it with something to free it up.
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Drivers door wont open using inside door handle. It will open using the outside handle. Door locks are functioning using key, inside door knob, and door lock buttons. Problem started this am. I tried squirting WD40 into the latch, without taking anything apart...and am thinking of removing the inside door panel and getting a better look.
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I have a 2005 kia spectra that the driver side door from inside will not open. I can open from outside and use remote to unlock door. I have successfully removed the cable that was broke. I am perplexed as to what part I need to order. The cable is green in color. It is the cable that goes from the door latch to the handle on the inside, I think it is this part # not sure. Their also is a right . Their are 2 cables one is for the lock it self and the other is the door handle. I am not sure if I need the control cable.
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My 2000 honha civic door will not open. the remote will unlock all doors except driver door which makes a noise like its trying to open but will only barely move the nub. When you touch the handle the lock goes back down. I've tried to open with key and tried from inside to open it with no luck. I partially removed inside panel to gain access, but could only pull the levers and not really do anything to the lock itself, I just can reach it. I'm considering cutting a hole from the outside to gain access to the lock, but once i do not sure what's next. what should i look for on the lock to get it to release the door latch?
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I have a drivers side door handle with no resistance. I tried to pull up too hard while door seals were frozen. I can open door from inside I can lock unlock but, can not open drivers side from outside!!!! What I did to it and what to do to fix.
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I have a 1995 Toyota Camry V6 XLE and ...My driver's side door locked up and won't open from the outside or from the inside! Here are the problems:
1. I can put the key in the keyhole on the outside and it will turn clockwise but won't turn to the left at all- when I turn it clockwise it makes the normal sounds.
2. I can from the inside push the power door locks to lock and unlock and it moves the lock both ways on the drivers side, still won't open!
3. When I pull on the latch from the inside and from the outside I can hear the inner mechanisms moving, sounding like it wants to unlatch it from the locked position.
4. Now I am getting paranoid about the passenger side door because when I go to put the key in on the passenger side door lock, I can turn it to the Left to unlock the doors but the key won't turn to the right at all! It is a pain right now as it is to crawl over to the driver's side via the passenger door, but if that door locks up for some reason, I am really up the creek! I don't even lock that side right now b/c I'm afraid it might mess up like the driver's side door!
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2006 Accent. Today I was stunned to find the inside driver's handle no longer opened the door : I'm sitting here with my door panel almost completely off, the only thing I'm stuck on is the manual window crank
I've been searching around google and here, all I can really find is that it's a huge PITA, and you're supposed to use a hook to pull out a C-Clip.
I really can't see this C-Clip. Or even make contact with it, if it is there. I've been pulling the crank back and peaking inside ever so slightly and I'm just not seeing anything. With a hook in there, I spun the crank hoping I'd feel a 'bump' or 'nudge' of the clip against my hook (bent metal wire), but honestly I've got nothing.
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I drive a 2013 Elantra Limited. I cannot open the Driver side rear door from inside. I am hoping its a quick thing to enable this?
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Locked my keys in my car. A locksmith came and instead of using the tool to unlock using the unlock button, he just pulled the regular lever inside with the tool to open the door while it was locked. Since then I cannot open the driver's side door from the inside. It will open, lock and unlock fine from the outside. It is unlocked when I attempt to open it from the inside. I pull the lever and nothing happens. I have to unroll the window and open the door using the outside handle or crawl over to exit from the passenger side door.
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Everything was fine with my 2000 F-150 until a few weeks ago when I went to open the driver's side pocket door and it would not open. Felt like the latch was releasing but would not open. I went around to the passenger's side pocket door to open it: SAME PROBLEM! This makes no sense; these two doors had worked fine, they operate independently, and I have confirmed with Ford dealers that there is no safety lock feature that may have been activated. Of course, the only remaining options appear to me either my tearing the doors apart, or worse yet paying someone else for the privilege.
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Where I could get a front driver side window regulator I am having a problem finding one and tired of the window going up and down slow due to the window ending up on the wrong side of the rubber.
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2008 Turbo... Is there a way to program all the doors to unlock when the drivers door is opened from the inside?
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I have a 1988 Buick PA Electra. Car idles rough and shaky at a stop light. When warmed up service engine light comes on for a few seconds then goes off. I've changed ignition coil box, wires, plugs, ignition module, fuel injectors, fuel filter. It seems like there may be a vacuum leak. Car has only 114,000 miles on it and I don't want to give up on her. Before this she was running smooth.
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We recently had a snow/ice/rain/ice/snow storms. I was clearing off the storm by products off my car and I tried to open the door but, the seals were froze so I hip checked the door and tried to press the issue to open it. Now I have a latch with no resistance too it and I can not open my driver's door from the outside. I can open from inside and locks but, no tug resistance. I have NOT taken the inside panel off to see what is going on yet. What it will take to fix?
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Hit the button and you can hear it unlock, pull the handle and nothing. All other doors open fine, just the main I like to use for time to time......you know to get in.
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My 04 audi a4 driver door will not open from the inside or outside. The bowden cable is a little loose but it has some tension, but even if that was broken i should still be able to open from the outside. the key fob will arm the alarm also.
And I can hear the door manually locking if i use the key also.i can arm the alarm only if i use the key to lock the door manually. but it will not open. i have to either crawl through the window or from the other side. Other than ripping the door panel apart and opening the door that way? Also the dash display shows the door is shut so that is a plus...
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I purchased this vehicle this week.69k miles..driving 25 miles to my home the temp. control beeped...near my home...my son added near 1 gal of anti freeze....that night there seemed to be a small amount of leakage under the radiator (but none since that date 11/24/14 or 2 + days ago ).. the coolant level in the radiator appeared down 1 inch on one check. On the last check after running and then off...the radiator level was up to the top and the reservoir level was at 1 inch. My son thought there might be a fine/mist spraying in the area near the left lower side of the radiator..since that time with the motor running I placed a piece of file folder down near where he thought there was a mist and saw none on the folder... this car was owed my an elderly person and likely was not driven often of late.
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I recently acquired a 1992 Buick Park Ave. My problem is that she shakes as i slow down and stalls when I stop. Usually about 10 minutes or so of driving. It doesn't stall every time but less when i baby the brake (i think) Its getting worse quickly and I've changed the spark plug wires and that didn't work also the previous owner recently changed the Cam sensor yet I'm getting a code 41.
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I have my doors set to unlock when I open the driver door. sometimes they do not unlock, there is no rhyme or reason for it, just it gets a wild hair and they don't unlock, drive to the next location and it works as advertised.
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