Opel Astra :: 2002 - Constant Misfire And Engine Shaking
Oct 23, 2014
My 1.4 petrol opel astra keeps misfiring every few weeks . When I turn it on the check engine light comes on and the engine shakes so much I can feel it in the steering wheel. When it does I take it out on the road and floor it in 2nd gear for a while and it settles down again for a week or two then one day I jump in and surprise surprise another misfire. It's just been serviced and had timing belt changed. Spent too much money on it in the last few months so I'm wondering if this could be one issue too many. What may cause this kind of constant misfire...
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Ok so me and my friend are arguing over whos a faster the Mk4 GTi 180hp or Opel Astra H 1.6T 180hp, they weight similar, equal hp and same torque but the Opel has 6speed gearbox! So my vote goes to Opel, Who would you think would win? Equal good drivers in both cars
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The floor on the back drivers side of my 2001 Astra is absolutely soaking wet. It happened one day that my car was flooded with water in the back of the driver seat as well in the front to the pedals First the amount of water was big enough but after the sponge from the back of the passenger seat and the floor sponge that is underneath got soaked with water. Its impossible for me to squeeze the water from the sponge. Now its not leaking from nowhere its just the water that remained in the sponge. My question is how is that possible to find myself flooded with water only in the back and front of passenger seat. Its seems that all water came from the back of the driver seat on the floor. What should i expect next that is going to happen? is this going to damage my car in the near future?
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Had a constant CEL two week ago, the car was shaking because the misfire. I went to an european auto shop, it ended up with replacing the intake manifold valve and charged me $700. They explained the valve could not be closed, and that caused a misfire(s). There were three fault codes on report.
This week, I got another constant CEL. I went to the shop and they charged me $50 for scanning the code. and told me it is a misfire on Cylinder 2. there is no fault on intake manifold valve. They dont fix that for free. I went back home and open the engine cover. The ignition coil 2 was replaced. Now, I really doubt if they replaced my valve or not. maybe just changed the coil and reset the alarm.
I have swapped coil 2 and coil 3 to see if the fault follows the coil. How can I verify if they replaced my manifold valve?
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I drive a 2002 Opel Corsa and am completely clueless when it comes to anything beyond changing oil and tires...
My windshield wipers have suddenly begun to stop their movement in the top position instead of at the bottom, thereby getting in the way of driving. The wiping function still works perfectly, so it doesn't seem to be a motor issue. The wipers just stop in the wrong position when turned off.
I happened to be at the garage for something else, and the guy there said that he would just have to replace the motor, but to try to to find a used part somewhere so that it wouldn't cost a lot. I think it seems silly to replace the motor for something that seems simple.
How to reset the default of the wipers? Is there a way to just remove the blades and change the position or something?
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I have a 2008 Saturn Astra and there is a high pitched squeeling sound when i accelerate from a stop. It has been happening since last year but seems to have gotten worse. It only happens in the summer time. It squeels only when accelerating at low speeds. if I accelerate quickly the sound goes away. but will come back if i come to a stop and accelerate normally again. It doesnt start from 0 RPMs but only at low rpm. It only happens when I first turn on the car and accelerate. If I have been driving for a few minutes and then accelerate from a stop it doesn't make any unusual sound. It happens in reverse as well as drive.
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98 5.0 last week i was driving around for a few hours and everything was fine. Did some work in the garage for a few hours and had to run to the hardware store. Started the truck up and she ran like crap. Engine shaking like a misfire. First thought plugs and wires. Well by then it was late and Easter was the next day didn't get to it till Monday. Well after the change still crappy running.
So I changed the fuel filter and cleaned the mass air. No change. Checked for spark on the coil packs all have spark. Checked the PCV all good there. Checked for vac leaks none found. During that I noticed a small hole in the EGR tube I repaired that but still running like crap backfiring out the exhaust, engine shaking badly at times. I also changed out the FPR on the fuel rail. No change of course.
As of today I changed the coil packs. Again no change. Only code it throws is a EGR high flow after I fixed the hole but was having problems before that.
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I have had 2 gx470's perfect - new 2011 gx460 constantly vibrating when driving. Michelin tires perfect not the tires they are saying this is the way they feel. Now impossible - constantly feeling the road and all shaking.
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Anyway, so a little over a year ago I had to have my head gasket replaced and when I picked it up they told me I had a cracked motor mount. After having just spent an exorbitant amount and being poor, I decided to wait to fix that. It seemed to run fine so I didn't worry about it too much. Sometime last year I started hearing this rattling noise when I pushed the gas. It would start and then die off. But it didn't do it all the time.
Fast forward to the past month or so and I've started to get vibration and shaking, usually between 60-70 mph. Thinking it was my tires, I took it in to have them balanced. It rode smooth after that for a few days and came back. The rattling noise has also become more prominent and is pretty constant now. I took it back to the shop and they told me it was more than likely the motor mount. So I went ahead and had that fixed today.
When I picked it up it seemed fine. The noise seemed gone and it rode smooth. But as I drove home and got on the interstate everything came back and sounds/feels just as bad as before. What gives???
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My 03 Tacoma TRD is showing her years! The truck has about 215k and has some serious vibrations and noises going on. First off I have a constant shaking type of vibration between 25 and 35 mph, but it is also present in the higher speeds of 55 and above but sometimes it gets drowned out. I work at a ski resort so when Im coming down the mtn using 3rd gear or so to slow down I feel the vibration is the most apparent then. So far I have had 2 shops look at my driveshaft and both concluded there is nothing wrong with the u joints. I had a CV shaft installed because one of the boots was torn so I went ahead and had that replaced.
What the vibration is.....2nd is more of a intervalled whooomping sound almost like a bullfrog-like interval. As I increase speed the intervals get faster but it is a drawn out whooomp whooomp not a fast sound. It actually rattles the change in my ash tray to the bpms of the sound. Also I have a metallic clunking sound happening when I put the truck in gear (manual) or start and stop at slow speeds without using the clutch. I was driving around a parking deck the other day in first gear and it would make the sound whenever i hit the gas AND when I let off the gas. ONE MORE THING, whenever I am starting off under load in any gear, the truck jerks.....it hesitates and lurches but only at low rpms and again in any gear.
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I have a 2012 CC TSI. Driving normally this morning cylinder 1 had a constant misfire that I cannot diagnose. I have swapped plugs and coils and still cylinder 1 is dead. Then I compression tested. Got around 150 PSI and it holds. And I got the same pressure on the other cylinders. So my question is: What else haven't I checked? What could be causing this constant misfire?
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My wife has a 2002 Volvo S60 that we share with ~165,000 miles on it now. In the last 4-5 years or so, it developed this problem of feeling like the whole engine is shaking when we start it up sometimes. It can go days or even a week where we don't have this problem and then all of a sudden it happens one morning or afternoon, or whenever without any rhyme or reason. While it's shaking, the lights on the dash go in and out with the shaking (going between dim and bright). What also happens right before the shaking sometimes is that the engine will rev itself, like its got a mind of its own, sometimes up to 2000 RPMs, like I am pressing on the gas pedal and holding it, but I'm not! It will stay revved up for a good 10 secs or so then come down on its own and proceed to shake. We usually turn the car off, then on again and it goes away. If it doesn't go away, then we repeat (off/on).
We've taken it to the dealer multiple times, including in different cities since we happened to move in the last few years to another city and still, no one can solve the issue. She swears it all started happening after we went a week without the gas tank lid after it got left off by accident after we pumped gas one time. I noticed it was missing definitely within < 7 days and got a replacement right away from the auto store. Not sure if that has anything to do with it?
The car otherwise still runs fine but we just never know when the shaking thing is gonna happen next. It can even happen on the highway when we are driving. You can be trucking along at 70 MPH or so and then ease up on the gas and we'll feel it in the gas pedal and the car...it will jolt and shake a little until we rev the engine above whatever speed we had decelerated to when the shaking started.
When the shaking has happened, I have gotten out of the car to examine under the hood and cannot see anything in particular, the whole thing is just moving like normal and shaking a bit and then eventually if you leave it long enough, it stops on its own.
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I recenlty bought a 98 GMC sierra for a great price knowing it needed engine work. It has a constant misfire on cylinder one and it causes the whole truck to shake constantly no matter whether idle or acceleration or slowing down. At first I was thinking a burnt exhaust valve. I ran a compression check (the engine was cold though) and I heard a cold compression check means nothing. But in doing so I found that cylinder 1 has the highest compression out of all. I plan on another compression test tomorrow when engine is warm. But until then I was thinking maybe a bad injector on cylinder one? It is a "spider injection system" and I was wondering if it was possible for one injector to be clogged or not working and the rest be fine. I have seen where one will get hung up and cause hydrolock.
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The problem that causes the check engine light to come on cannot be traced. The diagnosis is multi engine misfire. The dealer has checked and recheckedbut problem still exists. The last time my mechanic changed spark plugs he noticed oil on one of the plugs he removed in the rear side of the engine. He replaced the plug with the rest of them. Could it be that one or more of the spark plugs are sucking oil and causes the misfire? If so what could be the cause of that. Do I need a full tuneup? My dealer recommends replacing the cam shaft pulley because it's loose and this may or may not solve the problem. I'm not a mechanic but it appears as if the problem has something to do with the spark plugs sucking oil since the check engine light might go ou for a week or so and then come back on for a while. Lastly is it dangerous to keep driving the car especially on long trips?
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I have recently picked up this 2002 Ram 1500 quad cab and had the engine rebuilt because it was running rough. 2 weeks later After I'm driving for a bit, the engine starts shaking and feels like it losses compression and dies. It will not start for about 30 minutes and then it starts back up and I can drive for a few miles and it dies again. the longer it sits, the further I can drive. The head shop checked their work on the engine and could find nothing wrong with block or heads. they said the O2 sensors were clogged and replaced those for me. they also looked at the fuel filter and didn't see anything wrong with it.
I needed to know what direction to go from here.. Catalytic converter? Battery? Fuel Pump? I took the truck to the Service Dept at a Dodge Dealership... They checked it out and replaced the after-market O2 sensors with Factory O2 sensors and said it was running fine... As soon as We picked it up, it shut off again not 5 miles from the shop.. The service advisor tells me that his techs are scratching their heads on what could be the cause of this problem. I'm feeling that the problem lies in the fuel system somewhere, but not feeling confident in the dealer service to find my problem...
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I have a 2002 Mazda Tribute V6 with 151K. My check engine light has come off and on for quite a while now, mostly it would come on when it rained and then go off when the weather cleared. When it was on, the engine would sputter or misfire. I first had Auto Zone hook it up and they said it needed its plugs and wires changed. No problem. I took it in to a repair place and was informed that I don't have plugs and wires, but something with coils and that since it was impossible to determine which coil was bad, all would have to be replaced at a cost of $1500. I then took it to another repair place and they said the same thing. Now I have seen some discussions regarding this same thing and apparently some people have been able to identify a specific coil. At this point my check engine light is now on all the time and I'm really worried about doing terrible damage.
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I have a 2002 Passat 2.0L petrol (130bhp AZM Engine), with single DIS Ignition coil pack. The engine warning light came on with a misfire whilst doing 40mph (no previous warning or indications of potential problems), which is present at all engine speeds. I had the code read, indicating a misfire on cylinder three. I have completed the following checks:
1) Cleared the codes and restarted engine.
2) Replaced the spark plugs with new ones.
3) Old spark plugs were in good condition with no oil, no deposits and the electrodes in good condition.
4) Checked HT lead condition and found no corrosion, a tight fitting cap and no damage to cable.
5) Earthed the HT lead and have strong spark when engine turns over.
6) Checked the injector electrical connections with a bulb tester and all is fine.
7) Removed the fuel rail and extracted cylinder 3 injector.
8) Performed a visual inspection of injector with all looking good and no blockages at the jets.
9) Tested the injector on the bench using a 12V battery to ensure it opens and closes correctly.
10) Replaced the injector in the rail and turned the engine over to check for blockages, with all injectors operating.
11) Swapped cylinder 3 and 4 injectors (misfire still on cylinder 3, no change)
12) Inspected fuel and air connections and ensured no leaks.
13) Checked the engine oil condition with no evidence of water contamination (head gasket).
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I have an 02 Dodge Caravan 3.3 L Flex . It had initially stalled and wouldn't start. Check engine light was on. Had it towed to a Cert Mech. He said it needed a "Major" tune-up. I let him do this. It included: New Coilpak, plugs, plug wires, cam-sensor, crank sensor. That's what was on 1st invoice.
It started, but was still running very rough. He then recommend a new PCM. After choking on his estimate, and paying the initial invoice, I decided to let someone else have at it. Mech # 2 installed a "Rebuilt" PCM, New Battery, and a PCV Valve.
It runs good now BUT, ...It has this weird idle Misfire. The only time it happens is at a stop light when at idle. And it doesnt do it all the time. This check engine light is not on... At this point, all I want to do is sell it.I have over 1K in repair costs and still can't get rid of this misfire.
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My 2002 Jetta GLS 2.0 is misfiring only when it rains out. I go to start the car and the car idles extremely rough and seems like it wants to die. I checked out the codes for the check engine light and I got misfire codes p0304 and p0300. Which is a general misfire detected, and misfire on cylinder 4. I noticed that when I misted the alternator during the day around 70 degrees with the car running the car would misfire and almost die out. I know you are not supposed to get the alternator wet, but keep in mind i did not soak it I misted water on it. I misted the coil pack and nothing happened. I replaced the spark plugs and wires a few days ago. But as soon as it rains my car does not idle right and the check engine light flashes.
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My check engine light came on the other day, with no symptoms or problems. Today I stopped at the Auto Parts store and had the codes read. They were P0440, P0441, P0446, and P0301. They are for the EVAP system and misfire.
I had read here that one of the codes could be for the gas cap so I tightened it and then, also as read on here, disconnected the negative 12 V battery cable to perhaps clear the check engine light. I was curious.
When I started the car again, I now have not only the check engine light, but the red triangle exclamation point. How would you proceed? The 12 volt battery is around 5 years old. The entire exhaust system was replaced last year.(not O2 sensors though)
The hybrid battery was replaced at 70,000 miles and I now have 110,000 miles on it. I really wonder why disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it caused more error lights to appear? Also, the Auto parts guy said his code reader was fine for my car but I seem to remember here that there may be a special Prius one.
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I just felt that my 2005 Santa fe shakes when idle in front of a traffic light today, later on the check engine light illuminated. Drove to a Monro shop right way and diagnosis using their professional OBD reader, it turns out that the Cylinder 3 and Cylinder 6 are misfiring according to the OBD scan result.
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