Oldsmobile - Silhouette :: 2003 - Air Deflector Broke Off?
May 5, 2011
The lower air deflector/radiator mount for my 2003 Olds Silhouette broke. That is, the air deflector broke off. It's a plastic part that mounts to the radiator mount; not the mount itself. I can buy it on line for about $110 delivered, but I'm not sure I need to replace it. There are about 5 bolts holding it in place. It looks like a real easy job. I guess it is supposed to keep the front end down, but it doesn't look like it does much in that respect.
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2003 Olds Silhouette. ABS light comes on again. How do I clean the sensor and where would it be located? I guess near the break system by the wheels. Worse case, I can just simply remove the ABS fuse but this will lid up ABS light and my wife she does not like it. Is there a way to disable ABS and kill the light too? without taking the dashboard off.
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I have a 2001 Oldsmobile Silhouette that started to overheat yesterday. Was on the red, and the red light on the dash had just turned on. I pulled off to the side of the road, turned the car off and let it sit a few minutes. Turned it back on, and drove further than the first time to get a scheduled oil change and no more overheating problems for that drive. Had them check my radiator fluid and they said it was fine. Car sat the rest of the day, and went out in the evening - car started to overheat, (past 3/4) and I started revving it, and it cooled off on it's own, and remained cool the rest of the evening. This morning, it's doing the same thing again. Begins to over heat, so I turned it off. Turn it back on, and it's fine. Had new head gaskets put in, in 2009 at about 90,000 but aside from that and some wheel work, that's all I know that's been an issue since I purchased it in 2006.
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When in the mountains our van heats up, and our mechanic doesn't know what to suggest.
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1996 Oldsmobile Silhouette -This happened while I was taking a road trip and is all as highway mileage. When I drive until the tank is near to empty I get 18-19 miles per gallon. When I fill up after going only a hundred or so miles I get more like 25-27 miles per gallon. I have checked my math and even had a friend check it. My road trip was several hundred miles long so I had an opportunity to test this a few times. How this can happen?
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I have a 2002 Oldsmobile Silhouette which has been a great car, but due to its age has had some issues in the past year. The most recent is that it does not start well. When I turn the key, it chugs but I have to push the gas to get it to start and then there is a very strong fuel smell. We had it "tuned up" recently, but that did not work ( in fact the starting has gotten worse).
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Okay, here's the situation... I have a 04 Olds Silhouette. Within the last 3 days I have noticed the following "symptoms".
1. drivers side window rolls up and down a lot slower than before.
2. The fuel gauge has been acting up, shot up way over full just yesterday and we know we had just under half a tank.
3. Speedometer is also acting up, reads at least 5 to 10 miles per hour over.
Fast forward to tonight, I was sitting in our van listening to the radio while wife was inside walmart and when I went to start it up to warm it up before she returned, it would not start, only got clicking. We did try jump starting it and all we've gotten so far is clicking. Are any of the symptoms I listed above, connected to this issue? Also, what is the issue? Battery or starter or other?
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Got 10 gal. gas and pulled into drive-thru; idling in park, the engine stuttered once, then died. First retry it started, ran rough for 1 second and died; second retry i tapped repeatedly on gas and it ran VERY rough for 1 second and died, never to start again. It turns over fine. Where the fuel filter is to test pressure? BTW, it has nearly half million miles on it! 473k+
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Is it possible to use so much coolant system stop leak that you could clog the transmission cooling system?The fluid is burned and seems like I am having problems with gear shifting and power from the transmission. 2003 Olds Silhouette...
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where to mount the sunroof deflector. It's has two clamp like screws. Pic's would be great. This is the driver gear one.
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The pop-up mesh air deflector on my sunroof is broken. Is it DIY friendly? The part number is 1K9-877-651-9B9
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What is the purpose of the small rubber/plastic grommet at the bottom center of the wind deflector on our cars? Didn't realize mine was missing until service manager pointed it out.
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Today I noticed that my sunroof wind deflector is shattered. It is the front glass panel that angles up when you open the sunroof.
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I had my 2010 Camry up on a hoist yesterday and noticed that there is sort of a small deflector type plastic piece with about a 1 inch lip on the underbody just before the rear wheels. It is held on by two bolts. You can just barely see it and might have to bend down to get a good look at it. It is on both sides. I'm not talking about the rear mud/splash guards but the small piece before the rear tires.
What this is called and what it's purpose is?
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I have a 01 f150 4.2L and a while ago the ac compressor clutch broke. I didn't catch it in time and the stress it caused on the belt broke the power steering pump pulley. So I replaced the steering pump and pulley and the compressor the accumulator/dryer and the office tube put the 134a back in and everything worked fine. three months later ac stopped working. I figured the condenser was bad so i replaced it. Charged it up still no cold ac. so i thought maybe the manifold that goes on the compressor was clogged so i replaced it. While I did that i said to myself well i should tear out the dash and replace the evap as well. so just about everything has been replaced on the ac system.
Aside from the cycle switch and the high side switch witch from my test both seem to be working. now here is the thing. the tube witch holds the office gets ice cold then goes to the evap but the suction line coming from the evap doesn't get cold and the ac blows warm air. this very problem is what convinced me that the evap was clogged and needed to be changed witch is why i undertook the task of tearing the dash out. in all it took 14 hours to do the whole job. now for the pressures that i get from the ac manifold low side goes 40 down to 20 ..... this is normal. high side is a little high. I charge it to 125 still no cold air. so i dump a little more 134 in. at 90 degrees high side pressure should be around 200ish i get it there still no cold air. I have just about replaced everything i can think of.
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I went to unscrew the radiator drain plug but the head broke right off leaving the rest of it inside.
I drilled out a little bit of it so I could drain the coolant and bough a replacement plug but there are still pieces stuck inside and I cant get them out.
Should I just drill out the remaining pieces or is there a better way to get them out?
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My rear-end differential came apart and is not repairable. I have a 1997 F150, 2WD, 4.6L engine, 5 lug wheels. Which years have the same rear ends so I can scour the junk yards for a replacement?
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I was attempting to replace the front abs sensor on my '03 Excursion 4x4 when it broke off inside the hole. I tried grabbing the plastic surrounding the magnet, but it just kept breaking off. How I can get it out?
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There is a car i am interested in buying but the person selling it says the water pump is going out. The car is an Oldsmobile 2003 Alero with 141000 miles on it. How much would it cost to fix this water pump and how can i check to see how its working?
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I have a 1999 Ford E150 4.2l. My cylinder head temp sensor was dangling but still connected to the sensor... the connector was loosed from the filament but was still connected by exposed metal pins.
I figured I would replace it like i did to my ECT by the Water Pump. So I pulled the connector out and it started to leak...a little. and when I put the socket on it I instantly broke the sensor flush with the Cylinder Head.
I researched on here and found many people believe the CHT gives info to the Dashboard Gauge and the ECT is used by the ECU. I thought that was correct because I had ECT readings from my scantool...and my Dash Gauge never worked. When I found the dangling CHT I figured it was never working.
So I JB welded CHT hole. figuring i would fix it properly later. I replaced the ECT and expected everything to go back to normal.. No gauge reading on dash and a scan reading with no codes.
I want to replace the CHT sensor properly. Do I HAVE to remove the manifolds. Or do you think its safe to drain the coolant and drill it out. Its easy access. Im worried about all the tiny pieces getting into narrow passage ways.
I am almost 100% going to drill out. Manifold sounds like hell and its getting cold. What sensor controls what? Can I drill it out safely?
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This is for a 2000 Silhouette, yet I see there's lots more traffic for the Venture, so thought I'd start here first.
Backup lights don't light, when minivan put into reverse. b/up fuse ok (engine bay, #27), bulbs ok (swapped with new lights, and switched with turn lights, to confirm).
The circuit board is a potential, yet hard to believe that out of 8 bulbs, only 2 would go, and that would be 1 on each side, and only the reverse lights (not the marker, stop, or turn). Will go at it with a multi-meter, to see if there's current, for the next step.
Searches show that it could be the gear position sensor, stuck with what part this would be, and where this part would be. Would this be a pin-to-ground physical sensor, a gear position sensor by the transmission, something linked to the gear selector arm, etc? And once found, is this something that is replaced, or adjusted (imagine the reverse lights going on, when in neutral!)? Still looking for info, on that one.
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