Oldsmobile - Silhouette :: 2001 - Red Light On The Dash Had Just Turned On
Feb 4, 2015
I have a 2001 Oldsmobile Silhouette that started to overheat yesterday. Was on the red, and the red light on the dash had just turned on. I pulled off to the side of the road, turned the car off and let it sit a few minutes. Turned it back on, and drove further than the first time to get a scheduled oil change and no more overheating problems for that drive. Had them check my radiator fluid and they said it was fine. Car sat the rest of the day, and went out in the evening - car started to overheat, (past 3/4) and I started revving it, and it cooled off on it's own, and remained cool the rest of the evening. This morning, it's doing the same thing again. Begins to over heat, so I turned it off. Turn it back on, and it's fine. Had new head gaskets put in, in 2009 at about 90,000 but aside from that and some wheel work, that's all I know that's been an issue since I purchased it in 2006.
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2003 Olds Silhouette. ABS light comes on again. How do I clean the sensor and where would it be located? I guess near the break system by the wheels. Worse case, I can just simply remove the ABS fuse but this will lid up ABS light and my wife she does not like it. Is there a way to disable ABS and kill the light too? without taking the dashboard off.
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The lower air deflector/radiator mount for my 2003 Olds Silhouette broke. That is, the air deflector broke off. It's a plastic part that mounts to the radiator mount; not the mount itself. I can buy it on line for about $110 delivered, but I'm not sure I need to replace it. There are about 5 bolts holding it in place. It looks like a real easy job. I guess it is supposed to keep the front end down, but it doesn't look like it does much in that respect.
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When in the mountains our van heats up, and our mechanic doesn't know what to suggest.
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1996 Oldsmobile Silhouette -This happened while I was taking a road trip and is all as highway mileage. When I drive until the tank is near to empty I get 18-19 miles per gallon. When I fill up after going only a hundred or so miles I get more like 25-27 miles per gallon. I have checked my math and even had a friend check it. My road trip was several hundred miles long so I had an opportunity to test this a few times. How this can happen?
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I have a 2002 Oldsmobile Silhouette which has been a great car, but due to its age has had some issues in the past year. The most recent is that it does not start well. When I turn the key, it chugs but I have to push the gas to get it to start and then there is a very strong fuel smell. We had it "tuned up" recently, but that did not work ( in fact the starting has gotten worse).
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Okay, here's the situation... I have a 04 Olds Silhouette. Within the last 3 days I have noticed the following "symptoms".
1. drivers side window rolls up and down a lot slower than before.
2. The fuel gauge has been acting up, shot up way over full just yesterday and we know we had just under half a tank.
3. Speedometer is also acting up, reads at least 5 to 10 miles per hour over.
Fast forward to tonight, I was sitting in our van listening to the radio while wife was inside walmart and when I went to start it up to warm it up before she returned, it would not start, only got clicking. We did try jump starting it and all we've gotten so far is clicking. Are any of the symptoms I listed above, connected to this issue? Also, what is the issue? Battery or starter or other?
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Got 10 gal. gas and pulled into drive-thru; idling in park, the engine stuttered once, then died. First retry it started, ran rough for 1 second and died; second retry i tapped repeatedly on gas and it ran VERY rough for 1 second and died, never to start again. It turns over fine. Where the fuel filter is to test pressure? BTW, it has nearly half million miles on it! 473k+
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I have a 1985 Cutlass Ciera Brougham with the 2.5L four cylinder. It was driving and running great, and then one day it would not start. At first I thought that it might be the battery. I put my jump battery on and still nothing. I checked the battery voltage and it was good. Then I thought that it might be the starter. I crawled under the car and pulled the starter out. I took it to the store where I bought it just a year ago and had it tested, it passed. When the key is turned on all of the lights on the dash light up and the only sound that is heard is the fuel relay clicking on. The starter does not spin, click, hum, engage or make any indication that it is getting power. I put a wrench to the harmonic balancer bolt and I am able to spin the engine freely, so the engine is not seized. When the poles on the starter are jumped via a screwdriver the engine will crank, but will not start. Could a neutral safety switch or ignition switch that has gone bad cause such symptoms?
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Have a 2001 Prizm with 120k miles on it. Just had the recommended 120k service done a month or two ago (local shop that has been reliable to me) and they commented on how mechanically solid my car was.
Thursday drove to work like normal. When it was time to leave, car wouldn't start. No dash lights, nothing at all when I turned the key. Got a ride, came back later that night and jumped it and it started right up (didn't wait at all, but I also didn't check it before hooking up the cables - it might have started without a jump). Radio had reset and so forth, but it was running.
Drove Friday, it was fine. Car sat all weekend. Monday morning, dead as could be again. No dash lights when I put the key in, nothing when I turned it. Maybe a single click, but nothing more (can't remember for sure).
Drove wife's car to work. Came home Monday afternoon and the car started right up with no problem. Was curious if the battery voltage was low or anything, so I turned the car off, hooked up my bluetooth OBD reader (generic ELM 327 off ebay), and tried to start. Car was dead. Unplugged the reader, still nothing.
Took the battery out and ran to the store, assuming a bad or weak battery. They tested and said it's completely fine. Went back home, hooked it back up, car started right up. So now I'm suspecting something's up with the ELM327... I just got it last week, a few days before this all started. Had it hooked up all week long and didn't unplug it till the first time the car wouldn't start. Didn't plug it back in till Monday afternoon's issues.
Could a flaky OBD reader cause these kinds of issues? Anything else I should be checking, or do you think I'm ok as long as I toss out that reader? When I was using the reader last week, it seemed to be reading everything fine and sending the data over to my phone. When the car was dead each time, it acted like the battery was completely disconnected - radio reset, NO lights, etc. Could something with the OBD reader mess up the computer and make it act like that, and then a little time lets the computer reset or something?
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So one of my headlights turned purple, and I get an "light" signal on the dash. It still lights up but it's purple. I have 23,000 miles on the car and I have had it for 1 year and 4 months. Also, should I get both light replaced.
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This is for a 2000 Silhouette, yet I see there's lots more traffic for the Venture, so thought I'd start here first.
Backup lights don't light, when minivan put into reverse. b/up fuse ok (engine bay, #27), bulbs ok (swapped with new lights, and switched with turn lights, to confirm).
The circuit board is a potential, yet hard to believe that out of 8 bulbs, only 2 would go, and that would be 1 on each side, and only the reverse lights (not the marker, stop, or turn). Will go at it with a multi-meter, to see if there's current, for the next step.
Searches show that it could be the gear position sensor, stuck with what part this would be, and where this part would be. Would this be a pin-to-ground physical sensor, a gear position sensor by the transmission, something linked to the gear selector arm, etc? And once found, is this something that is replaced, or adjusted (imagine the reverse lights going on, when in neutral!)? Still looking for info, on that one.
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I have a 2001 ford escape V6 3.0l. Dropped a new motor in it, got everything running fine. Surprisingly the most frustrating part was when we mixed up the order of the front 3 coils but we got it!
It drove "ok" for a week and a half. Then it started to shudder at 45-55 mph. Got it home that afternoon and started to diagnose why it would shudder. Suspect its not shifting right.We started to diagnose what was wrong, made some adjustments to IAC, MAF and checked a few other things. We then went to test drive, started up fine, drove up the driveway 50' and it died. It didnt sputter and die, it just lost all power and died.
Got it back in the garage and tried to get it started again. Turned Key... nothing. Dash lit up but starter and fuel pump didnt fire. Odometer reads ------. I can jump the starter by pulling the starter relay. Same for the fuel pump. I use a jumper wire between two pins and I can get the starter to crank and the fuel pump runs when I jumper wire the relay too. So I know its not a bad starter nor a bad fuel pump.
Odd part of everything is that It drove just fine that day (other than shuddering). Then started just fine, then died. When it died we were making a sharp left turn in the driveway. We've messed with the steering wheel because it was "accidentally" put upside down when we dropped in the new engine. Could something have grounded out in the steering wheel? Air Bag? Maybe a problem in the clock spring? What would stop it from The fuel, starter and spark all at the same time? Bad PCM? Grounding issues?
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my car turns off sometimes and takes a minute or two to turn back on. also when I turn on the car all my warning lights come on such as check engine or check oil. Could it be the computer in my car? if so can it be fixed?
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After I turn the car off the "PARK" light in the Dash stays lit for about 6 seconds after all the other lights have turned off. Is this normal?
I will advise, I have the parking brake set to auto and the car seems to be functioning normally.
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2007 ford f250 .... 200k on it ....
Just had refurb engine installed with new oil elements as well. On a 9 hr road trip, the wrench light came on but no other warning lights.
No stock gauges showed any raises in levels.
No noticed loss of power at all.
The light would only come on once I drove at about 75 mph for about 10+ miles. It would not turn off when i slowed down, but when I would kill the truck and restart it, the light would be off. Just driving in town or on the highway briefly, nothing comes on. Took it in to oreillys to get scanned and they tell me a few codes pull up but none of them are valid. What would trigger the wrench?
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I have a 1985 Cutlass Ciera Brougham with a 2.5L four. Got in it one day and when I turned the key nothing happened except the dash lights came on. No clicking or buzzing, no engine turning over, nothing... Pulled the starter and had it tested, it passed. Then again it is only about a year old. I then jumped the poles on the starter and the engine came to life. Replaced the ignition switch ( the electrical part ) still have the same problem. Turn the key and nothing happens except the dash lights.
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I have a 2001 Ford F-150 v6 2wd. A few weeks ago, the check engine light turned on so I drove to the nearest autozone to hook up their computer and see what the error code was. The technician gave me the code (I don't remember it off the top of my head but it wasn't something imminent). Before leaving, I asked him if he could clear the light, figuring that if it didn't come back on after 50 miles, that it might have just been a fluke with one of the truck's sensors. Later that day, I realized that when I started the truck, the check engine light was no longer turning on momentarily the way that all the dashboard lights do to tell you that they're working.
I went back to a different autozone (one closer to my house) and explained the situation. They checked the computer for codes again and found none and said that the light must not be turning on because the bulb is burned out. I find this to be a striking coincidence that the bulb should happen to blow out exactly when the technician used his computer to clear the light. Is it possible that he did something with his computer that permanently disabled the check engine light? It's been a few weeks and I've since bought an inexpensive bluetooth code reader of my own, hooked it up, and found that there is still no active code. Is it possible that the code has returned or will return, but that I won't have a way to know because something he did suppressed not just the light but my car's code reporting mechanism?
For now, the truck drives fine, but I'm afraid to travel long distances when there might be a problem I don't know about.
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It's getting hot, and the A/C in our 2002 is completely nonfunctional (and has been since we bought it a year ago). Unfortunately it also doesn't provide a diagnostic code.
When the A/C is turned on, the light begins flashing immediately, and the air is not cold. I've tried it while the engine is at high RPMs, and idling in the driveway with no change in results. When I put it in diagnostic mode there still aren't any codes (except the solar sensor if it is dark). If the ICE is off when I turn on the A/C, the ICE fires up briefly then shuts down.
The mechanic we bought it from suspected the compressor. I hoped it was really the clutch (seems common), and that I could just put in shims to adjust the spacing. The only code I have gotten from it was for the cabin air intake servo motor shortly after we bought it. I found a mouse nest in the cabin air filter, which I figured was causing the problem. After replacing the filter the code went away but the A/C still wouldn't work.
I'm wondering.. Is there anything else I can do to trigger a DTC? Are there any specific problems that wouldn't have a DTC? Would a compressor/clutch problem certainly trigger a DTC? Can I test it when there is no functionality? (It seems more common to have intermittent trouble with that). If some of the mouse nest was sucked into the A/C system, could it cause this?
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I'm not so sure what is the problem because when the ac light flashing and I'm closing the ac switch and turn it back on the ac start to cool again but start flashing after few min.
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While on my 20 mile commute my check engine light turned on, attached the code reader to the car and got codes P0422 and U0D00. Looked up the P0422 code to find "Caralyst efficiency below normal (bank 1)" I have a list of possible fixes but have no luck finding out about the U0D00 code. I notice I lose and a quart of oil every month and when I start the car, the first 5 seconds or so the engine revs to 4000 rpm.
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