I drive a 2000 Oldsmobile Bravada. I just changed the outer tie-rod (passenger side),and there is still a fairly good shake coming from the front end. I have checked everything that comes to mind (true, not too sound a mind). My question is, how would i check the steering gear box?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 oldsmobile bravada. When I'm driving i press the gas and it does not accelerate. The engine revs but it does not go. Then it will engage and will drive fine. What the problem is?
View 1 RepliesMy C.E.L. (check engine light) flashes whenever the rpms are over 2000. I had it plugged in and the code was for "random cylinder misfire" all this was after I changed plugs, wires, rotor and dist.cap. What is going on? Its a 2000 olds bravada.
View 3 RepliesWe pulled out of the parking garage going up the hill it acting like i was in neutral all of a sudden. it was running fine but i was coasting backwards. After checking the tranny fluid it was mostly gone so as my wife and kid sat in the still running car I went for fluid. I put in in and then drove up that hill went around the corner and it did it again. Then i got towed home. When its cold it works when I drive a little this happens. Its on all gears and no matter how much gas I give it there is no attempt at shifting and no weird noises.
View 14 Repliessears says my emmision won't pass because my check engine light will not come on when starting engine but it does go on when you only turn to the on position
View 2 RepliesRecently have developed a strong gas smell in my 2002 Olds Bravada. I have checked around getting no where fast I have been told the culprit maybe the fuel pressure regulator but with the engine running and I am under the hood. There is no odor there is no odor outside the vehicle at all only inside...
View 16 RepliesI've been commuting roughly 100 miles round trip daily for work for the past month or so and other than the need for an oil change (I'm at about 6,000 since the last one, current mileage is 171900), my 98 Bravada has been fine. However, this evening when I was about half-way home, I noticed the car was getting a little resistance on accelerating.
I had wondered if it was the wind and rain I was driving through, but the tachometer was jumping regularly, it was in the lower ranges (between 1-2, maybe a jump to 3). I was still able to maintain speed (up to 60mph, and a struggle to get to 65 - somewhat unusual) - however there was noticeable resistance to acceleration. Once I got home I noticed that the temp gauge was showing less than 150 and the oil was fluctuating between 1/4 and 1/2.
When driving down the road, usually at speeds greater than 55 mph and usually in hotter weather, the vehicle will just shut off. Temp gauge stays firmly in the normal range, coolant level is fine. The vehicle will eventually restart after 5-20 minutes before repeating it's little 'siesta mode'.(It turns over, just won't start) I've been all over the internet and can find dozens upon dozens of identical problems in 1998-2002 Bravada, BUT NEVER A SOLUTION! There are suggestions from wiring shorts to fuel pump to the temperature sensor to PCM - but nobody has the courtesy to get back online and post if they ever found what the actual problem was. I can only surmise that either people just don't feel like posting the solution, or they are still trying to figure it out (which doesn't bode well for me).
View 3 RepliesI have a 1997 Olds Bravada with 170K miles. Engine was running fantastic up until three weeks ago. Suddenly engine is "bogging" down and transmission is shifting between gears at certain speeds (like it can't decide---usually around 40mph). Replaced catalytic converter because mechanic said it was plugging. Now engine seems even worse---it feels like it is working really hard, like the brakes are stuck on or like it is pulling a really heavy load. Gas mileage is worse. Trans is still not shifting right...at 40 and 50 mph it can't "decide" what gear to be in and switches back and forth, and at higher speeds it has slight hesitations, like it's "missing" or not getting fuel for a split second. Mechanic said it needs a tune up.
Background: Replaced transmission one year ago with remanufactured trans (could all-wheel drive be stuck "on"?). Replaced catalytic converter. Also just had A/C recharged and began using it about one week before these troubles began. I have stopped using the A/C in case it was related, but the problems have continued.
I have a 02 bravada that will not start, or even attempt to turn over. The battery is new, all the interior light are on, headlights work and radio is fine. When turning the key there's nothing though??? What could be causing this???
View 8 Replies99 Bravada 4.3L. Key rotates to start but the starter does not turn. I can remove the starter relay and jump it and it starts right up, swapped relay with another one and same thing. Car has an aftermarket remote starter that does NOT cut any wires, only ties into them. The remote starter is seeing the starter voltage from the key, but no signal is making it to the relay under the hood. The relay has 12v+, a ground, the starter post, and the post from the key, nothing happens with a test light with the other end grounded or connected to 12v+.
Second problem happened at the same time, maybe related. The floor shifter will not move when I step on the brake with the key 'on or off'. I removed the boot and move the little white lever and it will shift, but not like it should. All fuses are good both under the hood and inside and it.
1997 Olds. Bravada. 4.3L original engine. 217000 miles, maintained well (routine oil changes, fluid checks, etc)
Intermittent stalls. When stalling, voltage found to drop to 0 even though radio, headlights, and dash lights remain functional. Engine will sometimes "automatically" return to running (it doesn't turn over, just runs) and the air bag light flashes, other times it needs to be restarted. No problem restarting, but may or may not stall a few seconds later. No specific action triggers the events. On a potential side note, the rear wiper motor will spontaneously start running occasionally (once per week frequency typical).
Attempted fix: cleaned both battery contacts, removed and cleaned frame ground, removed and cleaned body ground, all done with either sand paper and/or a wire brush
Sometimes my Bravada won't start. It cranks good (new battery) and I can hear the fuel pump , but it doesn't fire up. I just got it back from the repair shop.?
View 4 RepliesOn my 2007 f150 5.4 last week i changed out the driveshaft and it smoothed things out. This past weekend I dropped the transfer case oil and refilled it with motorcraft transfer case oil as per ford but now the front end seems to shake more than before. It just seems to come through the steering wheel but the wheel seems tight almost like a death wobble with solid front axles except obviously this truck doesn't have that. There are no leaks and I filled it up to the top fill hole with between 1.5 to 2 liters of oil until it started running out. I should also mention that when i went to check the level it was overfull on the top plug but it was that way for the last 90,000 km or so.
View 3 RepliesMy 2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue (Automatic) has 142,000 miles on it. Our car has been hesitating when I drive on occasion. It does it randomly, it was once or twice a month, now it's about 3 or 4 times a week. I can be either trying to accelerate from a stop or already going 50 and trying to speed up to 65 or something and it won't go. The RPM gauge will fly up to 3500 and my MPH gauge will not move.
When it does this the "Check Engine Soon" light flashes, but as soon as the episode is over, shuts off. It does it anytime of day, whether it's the first time started for the day, or been running for hours. In recent months we've replaced the battery, the starter, the timing belt, recently the fuel pump as well as a few O rings. We are tired of fixing this car and not having this problem taken care of. Our mechanic can't seem to find anything else wrong.
I have a 2000 Oldsmobile Alero. Whenever my gas gauge gets to about 3/4 tank, my car acts as if it is out of gas. I know my fuel gauge is working and that my car has gas. I was told that it was most likely the fuel pressure regulator valve so I had that replaced but it hasn't worked at all. Is it my fuel pump? Or what else could it be?
View 2 RepliesHave a 2000 Alero. Mechanic says oil on ground is from leaking head gasket. $3000 to repair, or buy rebuilt engine for about the same. I thought head gasket leaks were into the coolant, not outside. Is this legit, including the cost? Valve cover gaskets were replaced earlier this year. Should I get another opinion? Other possible sources of leak?
View 2 RepliesMy car is 6 cylinder 2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue. It won't start after a short time of being off. It has to be more than 2 hours off before it starts up. What is wrong?
View 11 RepliesWhen in the mountains our van heats up, and our mechanic doesn't know what to suggest.
View 3 RepliesI am writing this about my fiances 2000 Oldsmobile Alero 3.4 liter. I live in MN so we see our fair share of cold weather. After her car has sat over night it will not start in the morning when the temp is below 32F or so. It started happening at the end of last winter and then it got warmer out and the car became normal...which is hard to figure out the issue when you cant verify the problem when you want to. Anyways we just had one of our first pretty cold nights and we went out to start her car and it barely started.
I have suspected it to be a fuel issue because while trying to start it if I hold the gas pedal in it will start to backfire lately and just acts like it is flooded. This last summer I looked over some things and found that the Fuel Pressure Regulator was leaking into the vacuum line which would go into the intake manifold and flood the car. So I replaced that convinced that it would solve the issue. It didn't. I also found that the PCV valve was stuck so I replaced that. Last winter I dumped in a bottle of gasoline de-icer or whatever that stuff is called thinking maybe she got some bad gas and her lines were freezing. That didnt change anything.
When the car wont start I can literally crank until the battery is dead (newer battery in the car) with no luck. I have had to be jumping it and cranking it over for a good hour to get it to start. Not cranking straight time obviously. But about an hour worth of time before it starts. And at that time i am thinking it starts just because of the air temp going up in that amount of time or something... I don't know. I am not quite ready to bring the car into the shop because I know it will need to stay there for a few days to be able to get the right conditions for them to verify the problem. My fiance and me have very busy schedules between both working full time and going to school full time. So to be without a car for a few times isn't an option.
99 Intrigue 3.5 with 200,000 miles has severe front end vibration on initial aggresive start from a stop. Worse when wheels are turned. Doesn't matter if turned to right or left. Drives fine on highway, no problem for straight line or easy acceleration from stop. CV joints original, boots good, car has been trouble free.....
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