Oldsmobile - Alero :: 2001 - Fuel Pump Not Always Turning On
Jan 29, 2013
My 2001 Oldsmobile Alero only starts about 50% of the time and has also turned off twice when I was driving, once in a parking lot and once when I was stopped at an intersection. It cranks and the radio and lights work. The fuel pump was replaced two years ago and sometimes you can hear the pump turn on and sometimes you can't. My husband replaced the fuel pressure regulator and has switched out the fuel pump relay but it hasn't fixed the problem. Based on this, can you tell whether the fuel pump might need to be replaced again or whether it could be something else connected to the fuel pump, or something else entirely? The fuel pump is under warranty at the dealership that replaced it, but unless the fuel pump is bad then I don't want to go back to this dealership and would rather go to different repair shop.
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There is a car i am interested in buying but the person selling it says the water pump is going out. The car is an Oldsmobile 2003 Alero with 141000 miles on it. How much would it cost to fix this water pump and how can i check to see how its working?
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After I turn left from a stop my 2002 Alero pulls hard to the left for a while. Then after a while the car tracks straight. The same happens when I turn right from a stop; the car pulls to the right for a short time - then tracks straight. I checked the tie rods - they are tight.
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2.2l '03 Olds Alero, 89k miles
My car has an unsettling noise. It is a loud clunk in the front end that can be felt. It only happens when turning right (just past where the wheels are aligned) when going forward. I believe it also happens when backing out of a spot to the left. It is only one solid clunk. This clunk isn't always loud, and can be subtle. If I do a figure eight, the clunk will be the loudest with the first wheel turn to the right, then will either get quieter or disappear all together. Let the car sit for a while, and the first turn will be the loudest.
Things that have been tried:Full Strut/shock assembly replacement on both sides of the front suspension.Sway bar link replacement on both sides.Both front control arms, complete with ball joints and bushings have been replaced.
Possibilities I haven't changed or on the list to examine/replace:
-Sway bar bushings
-Wheel bearings
-CV Joints
-Engine mounts
-Tie rod ends
What should I be looking at first? Is there something I am missing? It's been to the mechanics a few times. For a week after the control arms and sway bar links were replaced it was ok, or dull enough not to hear. Now it's back as loud as before.
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I have a broken gas gauge so i pretty much run it until its empty. Has been fine but just died about a week ago. Nothing else was wrong with it. Worked and ran great after for about a week then i went to start and it did the same thing. I have listened for the fuel pump and it sounds like its working. I have not checked the fuses...I am curious what else it could be if after one week with a fuel filter it would do it again
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I have an 01 Alero that is a great little car with only 80k on it. Runs and drives like a champ but it has 2 issues that drive me nuts. The AC doesn't work at all. If you press the button on the dash, it does not light up. The compressor doesn't do anything either. I did check all the fuses trying to eliminate the simple but I didn't find any bad ones. What would be my next thing to check? Is it ever the AC relay?
Then the one that really frustrates me: the rear defrost. I live in MI, so 75% of the morning I need it to clear either snow, ice or fog. The button works but the lines don't heat up. I checked them all for power and none have power. I also checked each one for breakage and continuity and they are fine. I saw somewhere that the connection at the module likes to fry but I inspected it and didn't see anything burned.
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My 2001 alero 3400 engine is getting hot again this alero is running with a 2001 impala engine run great for few months, replace radiator, hoses, thermostat and suddenly coolant start leaking in the overflow, fans not working even with ac on, i replace the etc sensor and did not work, the fans turn on when I disconnect the etc sensor so i think the fan motors are ok. I got one pcm module from the salvage yard in case I need to replace it but I read that only the dealer can reprogram the computer system because vin number issues....
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I have an 01 olds alero, I been having problems with the engine stalling out. i was told it may need a new fuel filter so I replaced filter and now it idles rough till it stalls. What to do next? I replaced the plugs 2 years ago also.
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2001 Olds Alero. i'm getting a P0300 reading, Cylinder misfire, and i was told a could months ago my mass air flow sensor was out of range. are they related? how serious is a misfire? can i drive a couple hundred miles before service?
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I have a power steering pump that makes a moaning noise when turning. Normally this means your fluid is low, but mine is full. Is it possible the reservoir is clogged not allowing fluid into the pump? When you take the cover off the reservoir the fluid is frothy so you know the pump is cavitating.
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2001 Oldsmobile Alero, 4cyl, purchased in March with around 150k miles.About a month and a half ago I topped off the coolant. 2-3 weeks ago I noticed the exhaust was intermittently throwing off white smoke. Not thick, opaque plumes or anything, but more like how your exhaust might look on a cold day. Being May though, I knew the temperature was not responsible.
This white smoke would occur intermittently and usually stop after driving for a a little bit. Since the white smoke was not constant and the coolant levels seemed to be okay I figured maybe it was something with the EVAP system or the fuel mixture. On a hunch and as a matter of maintenance I put in new Oxygen sensors a few days ago. The next day my coolant light went off again. Since then I've put radiator stop-leak in the coolant and some STP "gasket rejuvenator" in the oil.
My theory: if the head gasket is indeed cracked, it's a very small crack--small enough so that after the engine warms up a bit the gasket expands essentially sealing the crack. This would explain the intermittent nature of the white smoke and and slowness of coolant leak. Are there any other tell-tale signs I should look for with a bad gasket, if this indeed that case? I saw in the store some stuff similar to stop-leak specifically designed for sealing head gaskets that involved draining the radiator, dumping this stuff in and running the engine for a bit, draining it out, and letting the car sit for a day before putting new coolant in. If the head gasket is the issue would the combination of stop leak.
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My 2001 4.6L F-150 has been sitting on the driveway, used once every 2 weeks or so for the last 3 yrs. I came to start it a few days ago and it kept turning over but not starting. The key security chip is working, battery is charged, all plugs are firing, fuel pump fuse and relay check good. When I turn the key to ON, sometimes I hear the fuel pump priming, other times it doesn't. The times it does prime, the truck fires right up.
The times it doesn't prime, engine won't start. When the pump does prime, and while the engine is running, the pump makes a noticeable buzzing sound, much louder than normal. When the pump primes. fuel pressure measures at 42psi in the ON position, 36psi with engine running, and 46psi with engine running and vacuum hose removed. I believe all these are within specs.
My question is this: Is it safe to assume that the pump is going bad and will eventually fail completely? My second question is (and I know this can be debated til the end of time) should I get the Motorcraft or aftermarket? I have Airtex, Spectra, Carter, and Delphi available locally.
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I been working on this car for several weeks now. I have change,
1. The starter.
2. New Battery, New Plugs, New Crankshaft sensor.
I even change the belt tensioner because is was going bad (Broken). In fact I can hear the full pump running. After doing all this the car still not turn on. there is full in the full injector.
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Sometimes my Bravada won't start. It cranks good (new battery) and I can hear the fuel pump , but it doesn't fire up. I just got it back from the repair shop.?
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My husband bought this car 12 days ago. Had NTB check it out and they said we were good to go.
This afternoon, out of nowhere the car started getting usually hot, even though is was almost freezing outside. (Pic of temp below)
I pulled over and let the car idle for about 10 minutes. It cooled down by an amount so small its not even worth noting. I decided to try to make it home. As I drove it started to drop in temp... The car started sputtering as I slowed down at a red light. It started to shake. Then it cut off. I think I made this worse because I keep stepping on the gas hoping to get it back on. It did but it shook worse and anything close to 20 mph made it shut off again. It did this a total of 4 times before I made it home. Each time I stepped on the gas repeatedly to get it going again.
Once home I popped the hood and the pictures below are what I saw. Its in what I believe to be the radiator overflow. I checked the oil, and I do not see it there. I got down on the ground and looked for other leaks but all I see is the gunky stuff. The consistency is light very watery caramel. There was like smoke coming from the engine and it looks wet (included below).
Called my local repair shop and they are quoting me 3 grand. They said I need to replace the engine. My husband can't get to the car for another week and it is our only vehicle.
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My 02 Alero will start, but when I went to put it into reverse it looked into neutral and wont come out. I can move the gear shift but it won't come out of gear.
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The car is a 2004 Oldsmobile Alero. At some point a little ways back, the cruise control stopped working. Checking the brake lights, I discovered that the brake lights were also out (all 3 - two on the side and the one on top). I checked the fuses and they looked fine, and I even swapped a spare 20A fuse to the stop lamp spot just in case. To no avail there, I replaced the brake light switch. This also did not fix the issue. Anything else I can/should check?
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My 2000 Oldsmobile Alero's gas pedal sticks when its 70 degrees or higher outside. I can drive it all winter long without it sticking, then when the weather gets warm it starts again. I have to pull the pedal back up with my foot and it unsticks. I have replaced the throttle cable with one from a junk yard, but it does the same thing.
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I have a 2000 Oldsmobile Alero. Whenever my gas gauge gets to about 3/4 tank, my car acts as if it is out of gas. I know my fuel gauge is working and that my car has gas. I was told that it was most likely the fuel pressure regulator valve so I had that replaced but it hasn't worked at all. Is it my fuel pump? Or what else could it be?
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Have a 2000 Alero. Mechanic says oil on ground is from leaking head gasket. $3000 to repair, or buy rebuilt engine for about the same. I thought head gasket leaks were into the coolant, not outside. Is this legit, including the cost? Valve cover gaskets were replaced earlier this year. Should I get another opinion? Other possible sources of leak?
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I have a 2002 Alero with 124,000 miles and it's been giving me problems lately. Sometimes while I'm driving my car just shuts off. Radio still on and lights work, but the car just stops running. There are days where I can start my car with no problems and there are days where my vehicle doesn't start at all for days/weeks. I've taken my car to two different shops and they didn't find anything wrong with it but as soon as I got it back it started doing the same thing again. What is wrong with this car or what I need to do?
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