Oldsmobile - Achieva :: 1996 Will No Longer Start
Oct 4, 2012
Recently purchased this 1996 Achieva. Had trouble starting it from the "get go". Had to turn the key and if the lights came on it would start when one turned the key further. If the lights (dash lights) didn't come on one would have to turn the car all the way off and try again. This process was getting longer and longer until it would not start at all. Mechanic says the computer is telling it that it is stolen. Also, it has a Pontiac steering column.
View 11 Replies
Advertisement
I am trying to find out what could cause water to leak onto the front carpet of a 1995 Olds Acheiva from under the dash. It is not coolant. Testing with a power washer didn't cause a leak, only rainwater.
View 6 Replies
My Olds 98 has been having a very annoying problem and it's only been getting worse and worse as of late..
Ever since day one my car has always stalled while idling at a red light (in drive, in park it didn't really stall), well just a couple of weeks ago, if my tank fell below 1/4 it would stall repeatedly as if it were out of gas, and it has only been getting worse from there, stalling constantly at 1/2, 3/4.. And now today I am at a full tank of gas and I stalled about 6 times on my street, it's completely embarassing and I'm really close to just driving it off of a cliff.
Occasionally I would be able to "revive" it on the highway if I pump the gas aggressively, but that just delays the inevitable for about 10 seconds. Also, the noise it makes as it's stalling (and as I'm pumping the gas pedal) is a loud chirping noise, I'm not sure if the 2 are related but sometimes my car would also jerk back for a split second driving 70mph or more, and it'd send make my (digital) speedometer go haywire.
I should also mention that I had a previous problem where my back tired exploded causing a ton of wires near the back of my car (and near the gas tank) to rip apart.
View 1 Replies
02 Ranger 2.3 4cyl 5 spd 115K.... My A/C seems to take longer and longer to start cooling/ When it does start cooling it seems that is is actually colder than it has ever been (original owner) and the control is more sensitive to the touch when moved. Being a 4 cyl it's easy to detect when the compressor kicks in and it seems each time it is taking longer to do so. If I stop the motor, it goes thru the same cycle of time or longer before cooling (compressor kicking in) again. No codes, No unusual noises.
View 5 Replies
1996 / 2.2 L4 / 186k / Upper engine rebuild 30k ago
Car was driven on a errand by my mother. Upon trying to leave for home, the car started running very rough, and stalling. From the description she gave on the phone, it sounded like a plugged up exhaust. I told her to get some fresh gas and ease it home after.
When I checked the car for codes, I got 2. A P0300 and a P0122. Okay, so the throttle position switch has taken a dump, that's easy enough. The car has 186k miles, but my constant nannying usually soothes her, so surely that's all, right? God, I wish that turned out to be true.
I pulled the plugs, and #4 was gas fouled and sooty, #2 and #3 looked lean, and #1 was partially wet fouled. There was also gasoline in the oil. When the car would run, it would run the gambit from idling semi rough then stalling out and refusing to restart, almost like it was flooded, to idling scarily bad and no pedal response, to running too high of an idle and idle searching.
Since I have:
Replaced the TPS
Replaced the IAC
Replaced the CTS
Replaced the MAP
Replaced the ICM
Replaced the FPR
Replaced both ignition coils
Replaced plugs and wires
Replaced the fuel injectors
Replaced the PCV
Replaced the fuel filter
Checked the pintle on the EGR (looked good, cleaned)
Checked for Vacuum leaks (as best I could)
Checked the Fuel pressure (40 PSI) (drops to 20 after shutoff)
Checked for exhaust restriction (ran open exhaust manifold)
That brings us to today. New injectors just in, and the engine will run, but rough and loud. It almost sounds like the firing order is off slightly (I am using 1342 or from L to R 4132) and throttle control is almost non existent. It also shuts off when its warm almost like its flooded. No codes are showing. (despite discovering a sensor in back being unplugged and the O2 sensor being unplugged at times).
View 19 Replies
I been working on this car for several weeks now. I have change,
1. The starter.
2. New Battery, New Plugs, New Crankshaft sensor.
I even change the belt tensioner because is was going bad (Broken). In fact I can hear the full pump running. After doing all this the car still not turn on. there is full in the full injector.
View 2 Replies
1996 Oldsmobile Silhouette -This happened while I was taking a road trip and is all as highway mileage. When I drive until the tank is near to empty I get 18-19 miles per gallon. When I fill up after going only a hundred or so miles I get more like 25-27 miles per gallon. I have checked my math and even had a friend check it. My road trip was several hundred miles long so I had an opportunity to test this a few times. How this can happen?
View 11 Replies
1996 olds 88lss. My EGR valve melted and allowed coolant in my air intake. I replaced the plastic upper intake manifold and egr valve and its spacer sleeve. Put everything back together and engine won't start now. I have compression, spark, and fuel. Replaced ignition module and crank position sensor and still no combustion. Plugs, wires, ignition module, compression, fuel pressure, injector resistance, crank position sensor, new battery.
View 1 Replies
My mother owns a 1996 Olds Eighty-Eight that has developed a magical ability plus another problem that multiple mechanics have failed to solve. Magic: The car, a few miles after an oil change and verifying the correct amount of oil was put in at the change, magically generates more oil to the point the level on the stick doubles. Problem: At the same time, the car has significant loss of transmission fluid, but no leak large enough to account for the loss. I suspect the two are linked, and one mechanic even said that there was a valve or something that could go bad or get stuck and allow the transmission fluid to get pulled into the oil, but no one has been able to definitively reach an answer or fix the issue.
View 2 Replies
2 days ago, our 1996 G20'S sun roof slid open as normal. Unfortunately It would not slide back to a closed position. The roof's motor can be heard running when both switches are depressed (for either function) ; sliding and tilting. The roof will no longer do either function. I was able to pull the sun roof closed by hand but could not make the back edge of the glass rise up to be sealed closed completely. Obviously it became disengaged from the motor somehow. Would it be somewhat possible for me to get inside of the roof to hook it all back together/replace parts ? Is the location of the motor behind the sunroof control panel?
View 4 Replies
Was running with a slight miss until reach 30 mph for about 5 days now this morning, turning over and over but won't start..checked 2 plug wires no spark to ground..how to fix and make start?
View 5 Replies
2009 Impala, 54k, factory installed remote start will no longer start the engine.This problem just started with both remotes.When used in close proximity of the car this is what happens: 1st-attempt-I hear a short humming noise and lights flash, 2nd-attempt a click and lights flash, 3rd attempt (and there after)-no sound and no flash of lights.The remote lock/unlock feature with horn beep and lights flash works fine on both remotes.The car starts every time by key with no problem.Any thoughts of what may be wrong?
View 5 Replies
Car started fine yesterday. Went down to about 20 last night. New battery last summer. New starter April of 2010.
Car clicked once this morning and no turnover at start. Accessories worked OK. Battery checked OK. Cleaned the battery terminals even though they looked fine. Charged for 15 minutes. Still clicked once and no turnover. Jiggled the neg lines that run to the front fender and charged 15 more mins. Started. Went ahead and disassembled that terminal and cleaned the oxidation off the four wire terminals connected there. Is it possible to get one click and no turnover when those negative lines to the fender are not making good contact? Or, is it most likely something else?
View 7 Replies
My car is 6 cylinder 2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue. It won't start after a short time of being off. It has to be more than 2 hours off before it starts up. What is wrong?
View 11 Replies
I have a 2002 Alero with 124,000 miles and it's been giving me problems lately. Sometimes while I'm driving my car just shuts off. Radio still on and lights work, but the car just stops running. There are days where I can start my car with no problems and there are days where my vehicle doesn't start at all for days/weeks. I've taken my car to two different shops and they didn't find anything wrong with it but as soon as I got it back it started doing the same thing again. What is wrong with this car or what I need to do?
View 11 Replies
I have a 1967 Cutlass. She ran great yesterday. Today she won't start. I have spark coming out of the coil but no spark going to the plugs. Plugs and plug wires test good as well.
View 8 Replies
I'm driving an 87 v6 auto cutlass 130 000 km on it. Recently changed alternator and battery at mechanic.
After start up i put the car into gear but it wont shift into gear unless I give it a lot of gas and even when I do so it seems to have trouble keeping momentum /staying in gear. The shifts are rough. However after driving for a few minutes there are no issues at all.
It's been quite cold lately and I've noticed that if I let the car run for about 10-15 minutes before driving it's fine, no problems (although this seems a bit excessive).
Could this simply be an old car/cold weather issue or is there something else to consider?
View 19 Replies
I am writing this about my fiances 2000 Oldsmobile Alero 3.4 liter. I live in MN so we see our fair share of cold weather. After her car has sat over night it will not start in the morning when the temp is below 32F or so. It started happening at the end of last winter and then it got warmer out and the car became normal...which is hard to figure out the issue when you cant verify the problem when you want to. Anyways we just had one of our first pretty cold nights and we went out to start her car and it barely started.
I have suspected it to be a fuel issue because while trying to start it if I hold the gas pedal in it will start to backfire lately and just acts like it is flooded. This last summer I looked over some things and found that the Fuel Pressure Regulator was leaking into the vacuum line which would go into the intake manifold and flood the car. So I replaced that convinced that it would solve the issue. It didn't. I also found that the PCV valve was stuck so I replaced that. Last winter I dumped in a bottle of gasoline de-icer or whatever that stuff is called thinking maybe she got some bad gas and her lines were freezing. That didnt change anything.
When the car wont start I can literally crank until the battery is dead (newer battery in the car) with no luck. I have had to be jumping it and cranking it over for a good hour to get it to start. Not cranking straight time obviously. But about an hour worth of time before it starts. And at that time i am thinking it starts just because of the air temp going up in that amount of time or something... I don't know. I am not quite ready to bring the car into the shop because I know it will need to stay there for a few days to be able to get the right conditions for them to verify the problem. My fiance and me have very busy schedules between both working full time and going to school full time. So to be without a car for a few times isn't an option.
View 6 Replies
I have a 02 bravada that will not start, or even attempt to turn over. The battery is new, all the interior light are on, headlights work and radio is fine. When turning the key there's nothing though??? What could be causing this???
View 8 Replies
99 Bravada 4.3L. Key rotates to start but the starter does not turn. I can remove the starter relay and jump it and it starts right up, swapped relay with another one and same thing. Car has an aftermarket remote starter that does NOT cut any wires, only ties into them. The remote starter is seeing the starter voltage from the key, but no signal is making it to the relay under the hood. The relay has 12v+, a ground, the starter post, and the post from the key, nothing happens with a test light with the other end grounded or connected to 12v+.
Second problem happened at the same time, maybe related. The floor shifter will not move when I step on the brake with the key 'on or off'. I removed the boot and move the little white lever and it will shift, but not like it should. All fuses are good both under the hood and inside and it.
View 2 Replies
The 93 Cutlass Ciera 3.3 6 cyl. is hard to start..takes like 3 tries to start it...even after changing..oxygen sensor, MAF sensor, coil pack, fuel filter, air filter, good plug wires, crank position sensor, fuel pump, sending unit....if idling low will stall sometimes. Mechanic said it's slow getting spark up just when starting it..not sure why..
View 1 Replies
