Oldsmobile - 98 :: 1996 - Always Stalled While Idling At Red Light?
Jul 11, 2011
My Olds 98 has been having a very annoying problem and it's only been getting worse and worse as of late..
Ever since day one my car has always stalled while idling at a red light (in drive, in park it didn't really stall), well just a couple of weeks ago, if my tank fell below 1/4 it would stall repeatedly as if it were out of gas, and it has only been getting worse from there, stalling constantly at 1/2, 3/4.. And now today I am at a full tank of gas and I stalled about 6 times on my street, it's completely embarassing and I'm really close to just driving it off of a cliff.
Occasionally I would be able to "revive" it on the highway if I pump the gas aggressively, but that just delays the inevitable for about 10 seconds. Also, the noise it makes as it's stalling (and as I'm pumping the gas pedal) is a loud chirping noise, I'm not sure if the 2 are related but sometimes my car would also jerk back for a split second driving 70mph or more, and it'd send make my (digital) speedometer go haywire.
I should also mention that I had a previous problem where my back tired exploded causing a ton of wires near the back of my car (and near the gas tank) to rip apart.
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A week and a half ago, the Service Engine Soon (SES) light came on and has stayed on pretty consistently since. Shortly thereafter, the Battery light came on sporadically, but over the last couple of days, it's started staying on. Today, the car stalled while I was idling briefly. I had put the car in neutral so as to "turn down" a rattling noise, then shifted back into drive when the car stalled out. All of the dash lights came on, and I was able to restart the car and make it home 20 some miles without further incident, but it's definitely unsettling.
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I have a 1991 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera with 235,000 miles which last summer started to lose power going up hills and then stalled when I pulled into a parking spot. After sitting 20-30 minutes car restarted and drove fine. At the time a mechanic recommended tune up and replace fuel filter. Because money was tight, I could only replace the fuel filter, which actually improved driving performance.
But a few months later, when I started the car the idle was very rough, at 35-40mph the car felt like it was driving over those street cut outs, acceleration capability dropped...got a tune up but it hardly fixed the problem. Mechanic thought the ignition module was bad, but a new one didn't cure the rough idle. Fuel pressure was normal and the injectors seem to be working fine.
Since the tune up, there's strong gas smell outside the car (lessens after engine runs a while), gas consumption has dramatically increased, and the engine shuts off repeatedly when slowing to turn into a parking spot or turning car around in the street. This winter cold killed my battery so the first thing I need is a new battery, after that then what? Should I get a compression test? What could be causing these engine performance problems?
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I have a 94 EB AWD I am restoring and have recently picked up an 88 EB to restore as well. The 88 did not run. Here's a list of things done.. New head gaskets, new fuel pump, full tune up, radiator flush n fill, oil change, new transmission and rear seal, new battery, new iac valve, many new lights etc. Well here's where your expertise may come in.. the van starts and runs fine for the first minute or two, but when stopped at red lights the van wants to stall.. and while idling actually has stalled. I was going to replace the MAP sensor as I have found that sometimes causes idling issues. I assume the 88 does not have the MAF sensor to clean/replace? Any other things I could check before heading to the vaccuum lines? Also, both power mirrors are inop, the horn is inop and the gas gauge reads CO. I will check the fuses for those problems..
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Recently purchased this 1996 Achieva. Had trouble starting it from the "get go". Had to turn the key and if the lights came on it would start when one turned the key further. If the lights (dash lights) didn't come on one would have to turn the car all the way off and try again. This process was getting longer and longer until it would not start at all. Mechanic says the computer is telling it that it is stolen. Also, it has a Pontiac steering column.
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The 93 Cutlass Ciera 3.3 6 cyl. is hard to start..takes like 3 tries to start it...even after changing..oxygen sensor, MAF sensor, coil pack, fuel filter, air filter, good plug wires, crank position sensor, fuel pump, sending unit....if idling low will stall sometimes. Mechanic said it's slow getting spark up just when starting it..not sure why..
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I had a previous post regarding this when it started, but it seems to have now changed. Twice this morning, both while idling still in traffic, my engine stalled. Turning the key it starts right back up and runs fine. I'm hoping that it doesn't morf into stalling at speed.
Originally this happened 2-3 times a couple of months ago. It would die and then catch itself and keep running. Again, each time while idling in traffic. Once or twice it also seemed as though it was ignoring the throttle request for just a second, then took right off.
Two things come to mind, and OBTW, no codes thrown ever. What do you think about throttle position sensor or gas pedal issues! I'm wondering if it's losing track of throttle position and taking it to a low level and a stall?
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Got 10 gal. gas and pulled into drive-thru; idling in park, the engine stuttered once, then died. First retry it started, ran rough for 1 second and died; second retry i tapped repeatedly on gas and it ran VERY rough for 1 second and died, never to start again. It turns over fine. Where the fuel filter is to test pressure? BTW, it has nearly half million miles on it! 473k+
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1996 / 2.2 L4 / 186k / Upper engine rebuild 30k ago
Car was driven on a errand by my mother. Upon trying to leave for home, the car started running very rough, and stalling. From the description she gave on the phone, it sounded like a plugged up exhaust. I told her to get some fresh gas and ease it home after.
When I checked the car for codes, I got 2. A P0300 and a P0122. Okay, so the throttle position switch has taken a dump, that's easy enough. The car has 186k miles, but my constant nannying usually soothes her, so surely that's all, right? God, I wish that turned out to be true.
I pulled the plugs, and #4 was gas fouled and sooty, #2 and #3 looked lean, and #1 was partially wet fouled. There was also gasoline in the oil. When the car would run, it would run the gambit from idling semi rough then stalling out and refusing to restart, almost like it was flooded, to idling scarily bad and no pedal response, to running too high of an idle and idle searching.
Since I have:
Replaced the TPS
Replaced the IAC
Replaced the CTS
Replaced the MAP
Replaced the ICM
Replaced the FPR
Replaced both ignition coils
Replaced plugs and wires
Replaced the fuel injectors
Replaced the PCV
Replaced the fuel filter
Checked the pintle on the EGR (looked good, cleaned)
Checked for Vacuum leaks (as best I could)
Checked the Fuel pressure (40 PSI) (drops to 20 after shutoff)
Checked for exhaust restriction (ran open exhaust manifold)
That brings us to today. New injectors just in, and the engine will run, but rough and loud. It almost sounds like the firing order is off slightly (I am using 1342 or from L to R 4132) and throttle control is almost non existent. It also shuts off when its warm almost like its flooded. No codes are showing. (despite discovering a sensor in back being unplugged and the O2 sensor being unplugged at times).
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I been working on this car for several weeks now. I have change,
1. The starter.
2. New Battery, New Plugs, New Crankshaft sensor.
I even change the belt tensioner because is was going bad (Broken). In fact I can hear the full pump running. After doing all this the car still not turn on. there is full in the full injector.
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I'm using a compressor clutch kit to try and pull off the compressor clutch plate from my '96 LT1. Using the tools I got the clutch plate almost all the way off but then it stalled. I've broken every one of the remover screws trying to get it off the last bit. I'm considering picking up a 3 jaw puller to get the job done.
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So just last night I began having a small issue with my R32. While idling, the RPM's slowly starting getting lower to the point where the car almost stalled, probably in the neighborhood of around 300rpms, then it would slowly increase back to normal idle. It did this a few times then while driving and a steady cruise of 35mph I felt a large power loss for a second or two. This repeated a few times until I got home and parked it. I also noticed that the RPM's would fall much, much faster between shifts than normal during this episode. I drove it a short distance today. It it showed no signs of the same problem. Any possible causes?
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Weeks ago, I was waiting for someone with my car idling and suddenly it just stalled. The battery power was still on but the engine died. When I restart it, it starts up but then dies after a few seconds. After trying 3-4 times it no longer starts. I had it towed to the repair shop and by the time they went to look at it, it started up just fine. A few days later I was driving (like 1 min from my house) and the car engine died, again the battery was still working. Power steering was gone. I coasted off the road and tried to start it--again it would start up and then die and then after a few tries it no longer starts. I had it brought to the repair shop. Again, it started fine for them but they changed out the battery just to see. I also had fuel cleaner put in the gas tank.
Just to be safe, I brought it to a dealer since my normal mechanic couldn't find anything. At the dealership they ran codes and didn't find any. They said that sometime the lines to the cams or crank get corroded but that mine looked fine. Since it wasn't doing it for them, they didn't have any other recommendations. Everything has been fine for the last few weeks and then I went to start my car last night. It started fine even though it's really cold and hasn't been driven in a few days. While I was scraping the car, I could hear the engine turn off. When I re-started it the same pattern happened--restarted the first few times and then died and then wouldn't even start. I don't even know what to do at this point since it only seems to happen close or at home and not for repair places.
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1996 Oldsmobile Silhouette -This happened while I was taking a road trip and is all as highway mileage. When I drive until the tank is near to empty I get 18-19 miles per gallon. When I fill up after going only a hundred or so miles I get more like 25-27 miles per gallon. I have checked my math and even had a friend check it. My road trip was several hundred miles long so I had an opportunity to test this a few times. How this can happen?
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1996 olds 88lss. My EGR valve melted and allowed coolant in my air intake. I replaced the plastic upper intake manifold and egr valve and its spacer sleeve. Put everything back together and engine won't start now. I have compression, spark, and fuel. Replaced ignition module and crank position sensor and still no combustion. Plugs, wires, ignition module, compression, fuel pressure, injector resistance, crank position sensor, new battery.
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My mother owns a 1996 Olds Eighty-Eight that has developed a magical ability plus another problem that multiple mechanics have failed to solve. Magic: The car, a few miles after an oil change and verifying the correct amount of oil was put in at the change, magically generates more oil to the point the level on the stick doubles. Problem: At the same time, the car has significant loss of transmission fluid, but no leak large enough to account for the loss. I suspect the two are linked, and one mechanic even said that there was a valve or something that could go bad or get stuck and allow the transmission fluid to get pulled into the oil, but no one has been able to definitively reach an answer or fix the issue.
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1996 Exp 4.0L OHV ... Wife drove it the other day, said made loud humming noise, then engine stalled. Drove it this am, did it to me too while idling in D with foot on brake... humms for about 1 min, and then stalls the engine... If I rev the engine, was still doing it... but came and went when I was driving then till I got her home...
I know there is a black plastic cap that makes a similar noise but not as loud, this seems like something else... and the fact it stalled the truck is bothersome... it started up then fine, but still. The only thing that is the same as when wife had it, is that both of these days are like under 10 degrees outside... So, me thinks MAP? or something else that doesn't like these REALLY cold temps? or??
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I have a 1996 subaru legacy (2.2L) wagon. A couple of years ago, we had to replace the engine after a head gasket issue. A couple months after this replacement, this issue developed. The car would be idling normally, and just quit. No rough idling, no warning lights - just on / off. It only occurs with the engine idling (stop lights, parked, etc.) and will occasionally be proceeded by a rough feeling transmission shift while driving (especially between 40- 55 mph), though I do not know if it is related.
This issue is intermittent, and does not seem to occur until the engine has been running for at least some time. Normally the car will restart immediately, with a flashing A/T oil temp light that will disappear after a few seconds; however, sometimes it requires more attempts to restart, lately. I have taken the car in a few times, but, unfortunately, the subaru dealership could not replicate the issue. It is beginning to happen more frequently now, and I am about ready to take the car back in. What it could be.
I have cleaned the MAF sensor per instructions already - that seemed to work for a few weeks. I was thinking of attempting to clean the idle air control valve or replacing the fuel filter.
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The first time I turned on the AC this year, the car ran like normal for about 5 minutes. After that, I was coming to a stop light, I put the car in neutral, and it shut off. I could only get the car running again after I turned off the air. Then it would shutter very hard while idling. So far I have change the fuel filter and put cleaning stuff in the gas tank to clean the fuel injectors. When I tried running it again, it ran for about 10 minutes and stalled again. The car is a 1996 Nissan sentra. Check engine light doesn't come on, and the car has had regular oil changes. There is 191,000 miles on it.
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When I rev the engine it momentarily goes down to below normal idling speed (sometimes it completely shuts off)then goes up to normal idle. I have found that if I press the throttle too hard before it recovers it always shuts off.
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My wife was driving this morning and the car stalled when she was accelerating from a stop light. Battery light came on and she could not restart the car no power. When I got there she was able to start the car again. I drove 10 feet when the car stalled again. Noticed that the EPC came on smelled rotten eggs or sulfur from the exhaust.
Used jump cables and car started, battery light gone but EPC light came on and stays on, no blinking. I drove back home about 13 miles and no problem. Took battery to test and did not hold charge, I will replace battery. Car was at the dealer for two weeks to get the CAM, cam follower and high p fuel pump replace. Is just a battery issue or another issue for the EPC light?
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